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Le Sirenuse, Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Le Sirenuse, Positano, Amalfi Coast, Italy

Old Jul 18, 2019, 4:45 pm
  #16  
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Originally Posted by GetSetJetSet


not much there and it is SO overrun with tour groups and instagram wannabes now, its miserable. Its OK to see once, but having been dragged there several times now, I could happily never return. Its exponentially worse re overcrowding each subsequent visit. Also agree that Siraneuse isnt worth it. Fantastically expensive, mediocre hotel.
I'm being dragged back for a day trip from Capri in September - brother and his fiance's first time...
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Old Jul 19, 2019, 2:35 am
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Originally Posted by GetSetJetSet


not much there and it is SO overrun with tour groups and instagram wannabes now, its miserable. Its OK to see once, but having been dragged there several times now, I could happily never return. Its exponentially worse re overcrowding each subsequent visit. Also agree that Siraneuse isnt worth it. Fantastically expensive, mediocre hotel.
In terms of crowds however, the problem is that you are very accurately describing pretty much any major seaside and photogenic destination. From Santorini to Positano to Tulum (and with a myriad of places in between) tourist destinations that were already exceptionally busy with groups and tourists have now become even more so to the point that it detracts from the experience so much so that it defeats the purpose of going there for a relaxing seaside/beach holiday altogether.

Naturally, towns and villages becoming victims of their own success is nothing new but it is the number of places that suffer from this nowadays as is the speed that it takes some times to completely ruin a location.

Also agree completely with your assessment in relation to how expensive it is but isn't that the case with most Grand Dame seaside hotels in Italy (e.g. Il Pelicano in Porto Ercole, Splendido in Portofino etc)?
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Old Jul 19, 2019, 6:56 am
  #18  
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I feel like at least Il Pellicano is almost private and feels very exclusive (or at least did when we were there last year). Sirenuse can be a zoo.
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Old Jul 19, 2019, 10:24 am
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Originally Posted by Zephyrous
In terms of crowds however, the problem is that you are very accurately describing pretty much any major seaside and photogenic destination. From Santorini to Positano to Tulum (and with a myriad of places in between) tourist destinations that were already exceptionally busy with groups and tourists have now become even more so to the point that it detracts from the experience so much so that it defeats the purpose of going there for a relaxing seaside/beach holiday altogether.
I can't say I agree totally. I have not been to Santorini (going in August), but I was recently in Tulum. There is a VERY long and appealing stretch of beach. You can pop out of your hotel and relax on the white sand or go swimming. There aren't tour buses or ferries arriving all the time with loads of people coming to shop or take photos, and there are a large variety of restaurants and bars to stay entertained at night. Surely it is more built up and crowded now than 20 years ago, but I don't think it suffers in the same way that Positano does. For me the issues with Positano are 1. All the hotels at pretty much any price point are a poor value. 2. Aside from Music on The Rocks, there's essentially nothing to do at night, and Music on The Rocks is terrible. 3. Right in the center, I don't find there to be a great variety of restaurants, and it's so compact that there's not much "strolling" to be done. 4. The beach is simply not appealing at all.

It's cool to see it the first time, the tiered appearance of the town is striking, but once you've become used to that, there's not much more. I never felt "bored" in that way in Tulum, because we could always tan, go for a walk along the beach or go for a swim, since the beach there (when the seaweed problem isn't crushing) is actually nice. Positano is like a beach destination without a nice beach. My 2 cents anyway.
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Old Jul 21, 2019, 12:57 am
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Originally Posted by Zephyrous
In terms of crowds however, the problem is that you are very accurately describing pretty much any major seaside and photogenic destination. From Santorini to Positano to Tulum (and with a myriad of places in between) tourist destinations that were already exceptionally busy with groups and tourists have now become even more so to the point that it detracts from the experience so much so that it defeats the purpose of going there
Its worthwhile noting that youve identified three of the most Insta-popular tourist destinations in the entire world. You probably just missed out Bali.

Ive always had great success in going to places which dont fit my nationality/ age/ income level. Similarly, places which in-country tourists visit are often at least as pleasant as those on the international jet set list which nowadays can literally create a 5-10x markup on exactly the same views, experiences, food, etc. Your fellow tourists are also often a bit less annoying. The island of Ventotene for example, is stunning - no luxury hotels though, unfortunately.

Anyways, I fear were slightly drifting off topic. We have established that these hotels are not for everyone (including me).
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Old Jul 21, 2019, 1:05 am
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Originally Posted by GetSetJetSet
I have not been to Santorini (going in August) . . .
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Old Jul 21, 2019, 4:40 am
  #22  
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Originally Posted by sydakllon
I feel like at least Il Pellicano is almost private and feels very exclusive (or at least did when we were there last year). Sirenuse can be a zoo.
Agree, but Pellicano has the benefit of being isolated, and Monte Argentario is not a well-known tourist destination. Unfortunately, Positano is a must on every first-timer's Italy itinerary, and so many people in such a small spot can only create a zoo-like atmosphere. And of course, prices are insane and quality (of food, restaurants, etc.) is average at best.

Originally Posted by GetSetJetSet
I have not been to Santorini
+1, but not going anytime soon

Originally Posted by Pausanias

Last edited by livefromtuscany; Jul 21, 2019 at 4:52 am
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Old Jul 21, 2019, 7:17 am
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Is Positano a zoo in the off-season? We stayed at La Sirenuse in November 1998 and the hotel and area were lovely and not at all crowded.
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Old Jul 21, 2019, 12:13 pm
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Originally Posted by Pausanias
Should I be worried
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Old Jul 21, 2019, 1:04 pm
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Whoa! Didnt mean to stir up controversy! The point which I was trying to make was that historic European beach destinations (ie places that have been a tourist destination for decades) are getting more crowded, inexcusably expensive and with service standards dropping.

I agree with all the points above but from my completely subjective experience, I cant divorce Positano from some pretty great holidays in the Amalfi coast - I see it as belonging to a wider holiday. Would I stay again in Sirenuse or ISP? Probably not. Would I make a trip to just stay in Positano? Probably not. In fact, in terms of hotels, I dont think I would stay again in any of the coastal grande dames in Italy if I could help it. But I wouldnt advise anyone against staying there if they hadnt before.



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Old Jul 21, 2019, 10:44 pm
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Originally Posted by GetSetJetSet
Should I be worried
Quite possibly. Santorini is often cited as one of the most over-touristed places in Europe. The principal reason is the totally unregulated visits by cruise ships. I have chosen one single date in August - the 13th, which would have been Alfred Hitchcock's 120th birthday. On this day next month Santorini will have five cruise ships in port - the Costa Luminosa, Pullmantur Horizon, MSC Sinfonia, Norwegian Jade and Seabourn Odyssey. The total passenger capacity of these ships is approximately 9350. The log-jams at the foot and at the top of the cliff are legendary, as is the appalling suffering of the donkeys. This happens every day, from 8am to 8pm, from early April to late October. Even if you are in the seclusion of a hotel perched on the cliff with luxury measured by the square centimetre, I wouldn't enjoy the experience at all.

There are moves afoot to limit cruise passengers in Santorini to 5000 per day - similar schemes are being considered in Dubrovnik, Venice, Amalfi Coast, Cinque Terre and elsewhere. I doubt if things will improve. It's in our human nature to destroy everything that is beautiful and precious.
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Last edited by Pausanias; Jul 22, 2019 at 12:36 am
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Old Jul 22, 2019, 9:21 am
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Our ferry in early June stopped at Santorini (we avoided it on purpose as we ultimately decide we have no desire to fight the hordes of daytrip Instagrammers ticking off their bucket lists). Just what we saw from the harbour - cruise ship upon cruise ship, buses lining the road up the mountain for kilometres - confirmed my worst fears. I was truly thankful that we resisted the pressure of: "But you have to go to Santorini!"

A similar thing in Mykonos where we overnighted before our flight out. Two ships in harbour including one truly gigantic monstrosity which actually ruined the view from town! So many people it was actually difficult to walk in the narrow streets. Until they all went back on board for their dinner...
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Old Jul 22, 2019, 9:52 am
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Originally Posted by Pausanias
Quite possibly. Santorini is often cited as one of the most over-touristed places in Europe. The principal reason is the totally unregulated visits by cruise ships. I have chosen one single date in August - the 13th, which would have been Alfred Hitchcock's 120th birthday. On this day next month Santorini will have five cruise ships in port - the Costa Luminosa, Pullmantur Horizon, MSC Sinfonia, Norwegian Jade and Seabourn Odyssey. The total passenger capacity of these ships is approximately 9350. The log-jams at the foot and at the top of the cliff are legendary, as is the appalling suffering of the donkeys. This happens every day, from 8am to 8pm, from early April to late October. Even if you are in the seclusion of a hotel perched on the cliff with luxury measured by the square centimetre, I wouldn't enjoy the experience at all.

There are moves afoot to limit cruise passengers in Santorini to 5000 per day - similar schemes are being considered in Dubrovnik, Venice, Amalfi Coast, Cinque Terre and elsewhere. I doubt if things will improve. It's in our human nature to destroy everything that is beautiful and precious.
Oh Dear...that doesn't sound wonderful. Thankfully it's only a few nights and we're mostly planning to just relax, tan and have nice meals. I assume the cruise ship passengers are gone by evening? Part of the fun is finding NEW places of course. Trying several new Greek Islands this summer, and just discovered a new part of Italy (also in the vicinity of Naples) in May that didn't have all the tourist hordes.

Originally Posted by Cheetah_SA
A similar thing in Mykonos where we overnighted before our flight out. Two ships in harbour including one truly gigantic monstrosity which actually ruined the view from town! So many people it was actually difficult to walk in the narrow streets. Until they all went back on board for their dinner...
Mykonos has gotten out of control lately. I used to really enjoy it during summer, but I feel in the last handful of years the amount of people going has EXPLODED, like it is all I see in my social media feeds now, literally EVERYONE spends part of the summer there. Too many people, too much hassle. Trying other parts of Greece this summer.
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Old Jul 24, 2019, 3:15 pm
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Almost all of these "over-touristed" spots aren't nearly as touristy when you visit them out of season. These places are beautiful but are far more enjoyable without tourist hordes. Doesn't mean you can't visit outside the normal tourist season and enjoy them thoroughly, however.
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Old Jul 24, 2019, 3:53 pm
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Originally Posted by bhrubin
Almost all of these "over-touristed" spots aren't nearly as touristy when you visit them out of season. These places are beautiful but are far more enjoyable without tourist hordes. Doesn't mean you can't visit outside the normal tourist season and enjoy them thoroughly, however.
This has been my general experience. Off-season tends to be better for us just about everywhere. It's less crowded and typically it's much cooler, which we prefer. On occasion things we want to visit are closed, but that usually isn't a problem. Gardens sometimes require high season weather to look their best, but you can't have everything.
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