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eleven Paris hotel site inspections

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Old Oct 28, 16, 6:20 pm
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eleven Paris hotel site inspections

Note: I will update my previous reviews in Paris luxury hotels (consolidated thread) but am creating this new thread so that this new information can be seen by the most members.

I spent seven nights in Paris at the end of September, staying at three different hotels (Le Meurice, Le Bristol, FS George V) and visiting eight others. Here are my impressions of those hotels. Bear in mind that these are my own subjective opinions and represent my particular preferences (I’m 65 years old - you’re probably younger). Your opinions can and should differ!



Le Meurice

We spent our first two nights in Paris at Le Meurice. This hotel is my personal favorite in Paris per the three criteria of value, luxury, and location.

Value: Many of the five-star Parisian hotels have crazy high rates. While Le Meurice is not cheap, I find room rates more reasonable — and when you factor in the Diamond Club guaranteed upgrade and 100€ hotel credit that gets taken right off your room bill, this to my mind is the best luxury-value option in Paris. (Note: guaranteed upgrades end at the Superior Junior Suite category, and full Suite bookings get a daily 100€ room credit).

Location: Le Meurice is ideally situated, especially for first-time visitors to Paris who want to explore the heart of the city. It’s located on the rue de Rivoli, right across the street from the Tuilleries. It’s a short walk from some of the most popular attractions in Paris. It’s also near the Concorde metro station with access to three Metro lines.

Luxury: The smallest of the Palace hotels, Le Meurice has a real Parisian feel. Rooms are decorated in a classical French style, and our marble bathroom had everything you’d expect. Alain Ducasse oversees the food services, and you can enjoy Michelin-starred dining in the formal dining room.


view from my Prestige Suite at Le Meurice, looking east

We were upgraded to a fabulous Prestige Suite for our stay. Overlooking the front of the hotel with views over the Tuileries, we could see the Louvre to the left, the Musée d’Orsay straight ahead, the golden dome of Les Invalides to the right of that, and the Place de la Concorde at the far right of the panorama. The picture above was taken out my window. I thoroughly enjoyed the stay; it was so much fun having this incredible view!


Le Bristol Paris

Our next two nights were hosted by Le Bristol. Le Bristol has unique place among the five-star “palace” hotels on the Right Bank. It’s a family-owned hotel, part of the Oetker Collection, and each of its 188 rooms and suites have been individually decorated by the owner’s wife.

No two rooms are alike, this being either an advantage or a disadvantage depending on your own preferences. She has chosen with great care the French fabrics used for the draperies, bedskirts, and upholstery in each room, and the fabrics coordinate flawlessly with the carpeting, wall colors, and even the matting in the framed original art on the wall (there are no art reproductions in the hotel).


sitting area of our junior suite at Le Bristol

I would describe her aesthetic as that of a practical aristocrat. The hallways are brightly lit with plain white walls. Guestrooms are low key with an understated formality. There are no gold-plated fixtures in the bathrooms. You’ll not find plush, overstuffed seating in the rooms, contrasting accent colors on the walls, or even decorative throw pillows on the bed. Why not? If her husband wants to take an afternoon nap, he doesn’t want to have to remove a bunch of pillows from the bed. It’s practicality over froufrou. To me, this makes the room look a bit spartan, but that’s my individual taste. While rooms are large and comfortable and bathrooms have everything you could want, I would prefer more interesting, contrasting colors and textures in the rooms, and I found the hallways very bare.

But that’s the idea behind Le Bristol. There are 188 different rooms with 188 different room designs. Most luxury hotels come up with one WOW room design and implement it across every room in the hotel, an approach that some might call “cookie cutter.” Le Bristol, on the other hand, takes pride in the individuality of each room — it’s what you’d do if you were decorating the guestrooms of your own [very large] home. The hotel has a more residential feel, even down to the two white cats who live in the lobby! This is part of the reason that many guests love this hotel and return again and again.

Le Bristol has superb service. The hotel has a responsive team of concierges and hosts two Michelin-starred restaurants — Epicure (three stars) and 114 (one star). There is a lot of local patronage of these restaurants and the bar, which speaks highly of the reputation Le Bristol enjoys in Paris.


BONUS FEATURE: Click here for a “Photo Comparison” of some room details at Le Bristol and FS George V. This is a password protected webpage; password is FlyerTalk (case sensitive)


Four Seasons George V

Our final three nights in Paris were spent at the George V. Our stay was a real treat, as we were upgraded to a Deluxe Suite. Not only did we have a lot of interior space — bedroom, separate living room, a full bathroom off the Master Bedroom, and a powder room right by the entry hall — our suite had a very large terrace overlooking the hotel courtyard.

Rooms have a classical French design with touches that add elegance. I noted such details as tassels on the drapes and the use of several subtly different shades of off-white on the walls, crown moulding, and ceilings. In my own opinion, the George V offers the epitome of opulence without being overdone.

Having two previous stays at Le George, once in 1978 in its pre-FS days and again in 2007, with subsequent site inspections, I have seen this hotel get better and better over the years. Many consider the George V to be one of the very best hotels in the world, but hotel management is not content to rest on these laurels. With the advent of new luxury hotel competition in Paris, the hotel intends to keep getting better and better. I was shown one of its newly styled suites. If that suite is any indication, the hotel is moving in a more contemporary direction. The classic French furniture will remain, but rooms will have more modern feel. I saw this gorgeous new bathroom with an onyx vanity.


new bathroom product in a renovated suite at FS George V


Ritz Paris

The re-opening of the Ritz was a major reason why I returned to Paris. Having previously stayed twice at The Ritz, I wanted to see the results of its extensive four-year renovation. I was impressed, and fans of the hotel will not be disappointed.

Originally built in 1898, the Ritz is a small palace luxury hotel with 142 rooms and suites. Of these, only 98 are currently open. The fire shortly before the re-opening caused water damage on the Cambon Street side, and these 44 rooms need to be renovated again before being returned to the room inventory.

As I sat in the lobby waiting for my appointment, my first impression was of the guests. The Ritz attracts a prosperous, trendy, well-dressed clientele wearing chic designer jeans or sharp suits and sports coats. Not the typical “tourist” crowd, these guests appeared to be into style and shopping.

A word about the renovation and why it was undertaken. The hotel consists of four old buildings joined together, and it used to suffer with an old and problematical mechanical system. Getting from one part of the hotel to another to another could be a logistical challenge — not only for guests but also for hotel staff. All of this has been corrected. New plumbing, electricity, and mechanical systems are in place, including fiber-optic internet. Guests will no longer have to take more than one elevator to go from their room to the spa or pool, and hotel staff will find it much easier to deliver room service!

The renovation enlarged the rooms … so there are less rooms in the new hotel than in its previous incarnation. The biggest change will be found in the bathrooms, each of which has heated marble floors, dual vanities, a WC, and a soaking tub. Most have natural light and a make-up table. The step-in showers are equipped with three different shower heads — a rainshower, a wall-mounted shower head, and a hand-held shower head — as well as a bench. 80% of the rooms have connecting possibilities. The hotel’s traditional furniture has been preserved and painstakingly restored. The beds are topped with new state-of-the-art mattresses and are made with beautiful silky sheets.


bedroom at the Ritz Paris

The Hall of Dreams is still in place but has been redesigned. The courtyard restaurant has been equipped with a retractable roof and heated floor. The mosaic-tiled pool is as beautiful as you’ll remember, and the Ritz now boasts the only Chanel Spa in the world.

The Ritz Paris has the best Virtuoso amenity set I’ve seen anywhere, Virtuoso guests get an upgrade at booking, VIP airport reception with round-trip transfers, and a full daily breakfast for two.


La Reserve

La Reserve is a new boutique hotel just around the corner from Le Bristol, and it was a genuine surprise. This small gem of a hotel is located just a block off the Champs Elysees. Formerly the residence of one of Napoleon III’s brothers, it opened as a 40 room hotel in January, 2015. Stepping inside, you get the sense of being a guest in a gracious formal home, not a hotel. The hotel hopes you’ll experience La Reserve as your home in Paris, a private and exclusive experience.

We were shown the Premier room pictured below. About 40 square meters in area, the room had padded silk wallpaper and a design that combined classical and art deco elements. It had hardwood floors and was filled with lots of natural light. The color scheme was silver/grey and burgundy. 39 of the 40 rooms have a WC with a Toto toilet (with self-raising lid). All rooms have step-in rain showers, tub, and dual vanities. The non-alcoholic contents of the minibar are complimentary in rooms, and alcohol is complimentary in suites.


Premier Room at La Reserve Paris

We were also shown the Presidential Suite which faces the Champs Elysees, a lot of living space with tall windows to let in the view. This room had a more masculine brown color scheme that I found attractive.

La Reserve has a spa and an indoor 53’ pool. We had lunch at the property and, although it boasts a two-star Michelin chef, we did not find the meal especially memorable. These same sentiments have been reflected in other posts on FlyerTalk. But the room product is truly outstanding. My wife wants to come back and stay!


Plaza Athenee Paris

I first inspected the Plaza Athenee nine years ago. The hotel closed several years ago for a thorough renovation during which two physical additions were made to the building. This brand new space added suites in the new South Wing with direct views of the Eiffel Tower. The results of the renovation are very pleasing.


entrance to the Plaza Athenee Paris

While all guest rooms were occupied when I was on property, I was able to see a number of suites. The hotel uses several color schemes, all of which I found attractive, especially the “Plaza red” rooms. Bathrooms all have dual vanities, soaking tub and separate shower, and a WC with a Toto toilet. 80% of the rooms have connecting possibilities.

The top Suites are the Eiffel Suites, and these suites provide a direct view of the Eiffel Tower from the living room. The room we saw had a bonus room which could serve as an office and which even had a Steinway piano.

All restaurants on property are supervised by Alain Ducasse. I had lunch in Le Relais Plaza (located where the bar used to be). A place for power lunches, one member of the French National Assembly was dining while I was there. I chose the fish “special” for the day which was wonderfully light. I wanted to be “good” and not order dessert, but the sales manager insisted that I try the “Chocolate-Caramel Finger.” I agreed to have a bite (one really must watch one’s caloric intake during site inspections!) and … WOW … I couldn’t stop eating it. If you’re a chocoholic, you simply MUST order this.

Bottom line: the renovations were incredibly successful. I really liked the room product and would not hesitate to recommend the Plaza Athenee to guests wanting to stay in the Golden Triangle area of Paris. Like its sister property Le Meurice, Plaza Athenee guests receive Diamond Club amenities — guaranteed upgrade at booking up to the Junior Suite category, full breakfast, premium internet, and a 100€ hotel credit that can be applied to the room bill (100€ daily credit for full Suites).


Peninsula Paris

I had seen the Peninsula during a hard hat site inspection a few years ago and looked forward to a return visit now that construction is over and the hotel is in full operation. The Peninsula is a beautiful, polished, contemporary property in a meticulously restored historical building. The large and impressive lobby has been restored with all of its original details, including the high moulded ceilings.

I was able to see three rooms — a Deluxe Room, a Junior Suite, and a Premier Suite — during the course of two visits during my time in Paris. These are gorgeous, contemporary rooms. The Junior Suite had very nice space, and the Premier Suite is especially spacious. All bathrooms in the hotel have dual vanities, a separate tub and step-in shower, and Toto toilets. Like with all Peninsula hotels, the technology is very good with free WiFi, free international phone calls, your own fax number and machine, and a state-of-the-art lighting control systems that I can both understand and operate without putting on reading glasses!


Premier Suite bedroom at Peninsula Paris

We ate dinner one night at L’Oiseau Blanc, the rooftop restaurant with direct views of the Eiffel Tower. I enjoyed the the three-course meal — an entree, main course, and dessert for 109€. Every course was wonderful — oysters for my appetizer, a perfectly prepared Monkfish for my main course. We chose to pair our courses with wine selections, and this was a great experience.

The Peninsula is a good option if you prefer contemporary luxury and if its location close to the Etoile works for you.


St. James Paris

This was the big surprise of my site inspections in Paris. Their U.S. representation firm had encouraged me to visit during my stay in Paris, and St. James should definitely be considered if the location and style work for you.

First, a word about location. St. James is not centrally located. This stately mansion is found in the posh 16th arrondissement, a beautiful residential neighborhood with tree-lined streets. The hotel is a free-standing gated chateau on its own grounds.


front view of St. James Paris

The hotel was totally renovated in 2012 in a style I would describe “crazy chic.” They have maintained the classic traditions of the buildings but added a lot of quirky touches to the interior. The carpeting in the room, for instance, is a parquet patterned carpet, and the hallway carpeting is a marble tile pattern. A continuing renovation is on-going, and as rooms are renovated, bathrooms are being updated to include showers.

The hotel has 19 room and 30 suites (junior suites and full suites). I recommend first floor rooms which have large ceilings and windows as well as great street views that are framed by tall trees. The spa has two treatment rooms and a very well equipped gym, considering the size of the the hotel. The dining room is stunning. Only hotel guests and private Club members can dine there for breakfast and lunch, while it’s open to the public for dinner.

Travel Leaders Select amenities include breakfast, upgrade if available, and a VIP welcome amenity.


Grand Hotel du Palais Royal

Palais Royale is located in the 1st arrondissement, a short distance to the northeast of the Louvre. This is a boutique property with just 68 rooms, housed in a former 18th century mansion. It is a member of Small Luxury Hotels and offers Travel Leaders Select amenities (breakfast buffet for two, bottle of Champagne in room on arrival, free WiFi).


Deluxe Room at Palais Royale

Rooms are on the small side, a fact that is reflected in the more reasonable rates. I did not see a Superior room, but Deluxe rooms range in size 25-27 square meters. These come with either a step-in shower or a bathtub (but not both), so be sure to specify your preference when reserving. Rooms have very pleasant contemporary interiors with a residential feel. I can recommend this hotel for guests desiring a more intimate property. If the location and the size of the rooms work for you, Palais Royale is a good option.


TWO FOUR-STAR OPTIONS IN PARIS

I’ve often been asked about Left Bank hotels. With the exception of L’Esprit St. Germain, there are no Virtuoso hotels on the Rive Gauche. Generally, the historical buildings here have small rooms, and the hotels are not permitted to knock down walls. You’re sacrificing size for location and charm when you stay here. Here are two top four-star choices.


Relais Christine

Relais Christine, a member of Small Luxury Hotels, is hidden away on a small street in the 6th arrondissement, set around its own quiet courtyard and garden. It’s not Virtuoso, but I’m told that if a Virtuoso agent asks, they will “usually” include breakfast and a VIP welcome amenity.

I saw five rooms during the course of my site inspection. Pictured here is #4, a Deluxe room right off the courtyard, one of the newly renovated rooms. Quite nicely done, the basic color is ivory with accents of olive and dark green. As is common in the Left Bank, rooms are small but they show a lot of character. This room had one vanity and a step-in rain shower (but no tub). The French doors to the courtyard are also the one window to the outside. As they extend to the ceiling, the windows admit a good amount of light. You have a small, somewhat private terrace, outside the door of your room right on the courtyard.


Room 4 (Deluxe Room) at Relais Christine

#5 is a Family Suite. The living room has two sofas, each of which converts into a single bed. The bedroom has its own bathroom with two vanities and a tub, but the toilet is in the hallway. A second bathroom in the hallway offers a second toilet and a shower. There is also a powder room and a small kitchen.

#14/15, a Terrace Suite, has its own terrace onto the garden and its green lawn. There is a small living room with a single sofabed. The small bedroom has a toilet and shower.

#58 is a Deluxe Jr. Suite. A duplex room, there is a small sitting room on the first floor with a sofabed for one, a bathroom with toilet, two vanities, and a tub/shower combination. The bedroom is upstairs, but the bathroom is downstairs.

Definitely ask for one of their renovated rooms if you decide to stay at Relais Christine. They are attractive and definitely better than the pre-renovated rooms.


d’Aubusson

Just around the corner from Relais Christine is d’Aubusson, named after a small town in the middle of France known for its tapestries. I was able to see three rooms during my site inspection.

#403 is a Superior, 200 square feet and long-and-narrow. Decorated in shades of black, grey, and burgundy, the bathroom has a shower-in-tub, a single vanity, and a toilet.

#405 (pictured below) is a Grand Luxe. Wider and 280 square feet, it is nevertheless a long and narrow room. Same bathroom as described above, the color scheme has accents of mustard-yellow.


Grand Luxe room # 405 at d'Aubusson

#311 is another Grand Luxe in a different part of the joined buildings. With a more square shape (which I prefer), the room nevertheless seemed small. The room had a jacuzzi tub, a small shower, and dual vanities.

All rooms are provided with a Samsung smart phone with free data and free calls to the US, Canada, and Europe.

I found the public area at d’Aubusson to be especially attractive.
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Old Oct 28, 16, 6:40 pm
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Thanks David! We'll be visiting Paris early next year, so your report is timely.

That said, service is among the most important factors when we decide on a property; can you chime in on this aspect as well? A good hard produce is necessary but not sufficient (at least for me.)

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Old Oct 28, 16, 6:45 pm
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Originally Posted by KI-NRT View Post
Thanks David! We'll be visiting Paris early next year, so your report is timeline.

That said, service is among the most important factors when we decide on a property; can you chime in on this aspect as well? A good hard produce is necessary but not sufficient (at least for me.)
Hard to determine levels of service during a site inspection — or even, to some extent, during a stay — as hotels do their best to "wow" travel advisors. Occasionally, I'll experience poor service, which says a LOT ... but I had exceptional service at all three properties at which I stayed: Le Meurice, Le Bristol, and the George V.

There have been some recent reviews of La Reserve in this forum which admired the physical product but which opined that the service of this new hotel is not yet where it needs to be.
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Old Oct 28, 16, 7:17 pm
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Thanks David. This is very helpful.
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Old Oct 28, 16, 10:12 pm
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Really happy to see the Ritz renovation was worth the wait! Thanks!
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Old Oct 29, 16, 6:13 am
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Thank you very much, but doesn´t really make my decision more easy So many great choices....
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Old Oct 29, 16, 7:26 am
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Originally Posted by offerendum View Post
Thank you very much, but doesn´t really make my decision more easy So many great choices....
Are you staying long enough to consider splitting the stay? I agree with David above that Ritz's Virtuoso amenities are fantastic.
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Old Oct 29, 16, 7:36 am
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Originally Posted by BESVISOR View Post
Are you staying long enough to consider splitting the stay? I agree with David above that Ritz's Virtuoso amenities are fantastic.
Think so, but my girlfriend doesn´t like the idea of splitting
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Old Oct 29, 16, 9:16 am
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Edited by Moderator. Deleted reference to deleted post.

Guess so.... To be true I'm not 100% sure what I prefer . It's also an advantage to unpack your belongings and take full advantage of dressing room etc

Last edited by obscure2k; Oct 29, 16 at 12:39 pm
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Old Oct 29, 16, 9:28 am
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Originally Posted by offerendum View Post
Guess so.... To be true I'm not 100% sure what I prefer . It's also an advantage to unpack your belongings and take full advantage of dressing room etc

Can't argue with that...unfortunately, that's a luxury I do not have...I usually stay in 2 - 3 properties per city visited. Someday, I would like to settle down and utilize the closet!
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Old Oct 29, 16, 11:09 am
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Thanks DavidO. This was extremely helpful, and helped me and my SO decide to switch our reservation from the MO Paris to Le Meurice. We don't typically love the traditional decor, but when in Paris...

Do you have any suggestions on room categories / specific rooms? Our budget suggests that the Superior Junior Suite is the highest we can go. It does look like the Superior Junior Suite is the first room that offers the option of the street view, which is (to my understanding) the better option. That said, I don't like to spend for the sake of spending, and 45sqm in the Executive Room would be enough space for us from a purely physical room layout perspective.

I should add that Le Meurice actually slightly more expensive than the MO and Pen for our travel dates (all three are offering 3rd night free). You mentioned it as your favorite "more reasonable" option. Still the right choice? Unfortunately the FS, La Reserve and Le Bristol are out of our budget, so we have narrowed it down to these three - very different - properties. I've eliminated the others for one reason or another.
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Old Oct 29, 16, 11:33 am
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Originally Posted by callmedtop View Post
Do you have any suggestions on room categories / specific rooms? Our budget suggests that the Superior Junior Suite is the highest we can go. It does look like the Superior Junior Suite is the first room that offers the option of the street view, which is (to my understanding) the better option. That said, I don't like to spend for the sake of spending, and 45sqm in the Executive Room would be enough space for us from a purely physical room layout perspective.
Bear in mind that the upgrade at booking goes from Superior (35sqm) > Deluxe (40 sqm) > Executive (45 sqm) > Superior Jr. Suite (52 sqm).

There is a category of Executive with Tuileries view, so if a great view (better than "Street View") is what you want, I'd work with your TA to end up there.
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Old Oct 29, 16, 4:39 pm
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Nice review DavidO, thanks. The Ritz is definitely on the list for next year.

My 2c - I've really got into La Reserve. I've got my fourth visit in early Dec. I find the service just on the right balance of friendly vs formal. If you're used to the service style of GeorgeV or Plaza Athenee then I can understand a level of frustration/disappointment
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Old Oct 29, 16, 9:01 pm
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Le Cinq now has 3 Michelin. Also the spa is in refurb http://www.fourseasons.com/paris/spa/?c=t&_s_icmp=mmenu
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Old Oct 29, 16, 11:22 pm
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Thanks for the detailed site inspections!
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