Trip Report: Luxury Hotels of Andalucia (Cordoba, Granada, Seville)
Mar 22, 2016, 3:44 pm
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,151
Trip Report: Luxury Hotels of Andalucia (Cordoba, Granada, Seville)
We just returned from a week driving around Andalucia, gorging ourselves on delicious tapas and wine, and celebrating my wife’s birthday.
I tried to find the best hotel in each city we stayed in, and am grateful to pricesquire for his help with booking (and nagging the properties for upgrades
) and to FlyingDoctorWu for his feedback as I constantly flip-flopped on our plans (as I always do), and to schriste for sharing his experiences at two of our hotels.
While you won’t find any Aman-level properties around here, we were lucky to stay at some a couple of special hotels, and I’d encourage anyone reading this to visit the region (especially while the Euro is deeply discounted for us Americans
), as we had a wonderful time.
Here I’ll share some photos and thoughts on each of the three hotels we visited (as well as some dining tips near each):
Hotel Hospes Palacio del Bailío, Cordoba
AC Palacio de Santa Paula, Granada
Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville
I hope you enjoy!
I tried to find the best hotel in each city we stayed in, and am grateful to pricesquire for his help with booking (and nagging the properties for upgrades
) and to FlyingDoctorWu for his feedback as I constantly flip-flopped on our plans (as I always do), and to schriste for sharing his experiences at two of our hotels.While you won’t find any Aman-level properties around here, we were lucky to stay at some a couple of special hotels, and I’d encourage anyone reading this to visit the region (especially while the Euro is deeply discounted for us Americans
), as we had a wonderful time.Here I’ll share some photos and thoughts on each of the three hotels we visited (as well as some dining tips near each):
Hotel Hospes Palacio del Bailío, Cordoba
AC Palacio de Santa Paula, Granada
Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville
I hope you enjoy!
Last edited by LM225; Mar 23, 2016 at 4:23 pm
Mar 22, 2016, 3:44 pm
#2
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,151
Hotel Hospes Palacio del Bailío, Cordoba
Hotel Hospes Palacio del Bailío, Cordoba
Booking/Pre-Arrival
We booked a Virtuoso rate (this is the only Virtuoso property in town) that included the usual amenities, as well as a tapas lunch in their courtyard (set menu, alcohol not included). The “welcome drink” was actually a full bottle of Cava waiting in our room.
I emailed the hotel a few times to help with on-the-ground arrangements, and emails took a few days to get answered (when they were answered at all). Email communication wasn’t a strong suit here, though on-site service was very good.
Room
We booked a junior suite and received a generous upgrade to (naturally) “The Don Quixote Suite.”
This signature suite was quite unique, with scenes from the book painted on the walls, and lots of old-world charm.
With that charm, however, came a couple of quirks:
- The bathroom door didn't stay closed. While the shower and toilet had separate (glass) doors, they afforded no privacy, and this was annoying. We ended up using the bathroom trash can to hold the door closed.
- The windows opened into a courtyard that was accessible by other hotel guests. So when the shades were open, people can see inside your suite (and bathroom!).
Property
The grounds of the hotel were peaceful. We enjoyed the Virtuoso-included lunch in the tranquil courtyard very much. The roman baths in the spa (which you need to make an appointment for, so you have them all to yourself) were also a nice way to relax, though the spa itself was quite small. The breakfast dining room is really interesting, as the tables all sit on a glass floor that overlooks the roman ruins beneath the hotel....a fun way to start the day!
Service
Service here was...solid. The staff were all nice and friendly. The upgrade they gave us was generous. We felt welcome. But it was missing the empathy and anticipation of needs that truly make some of our favorite hotels great. And really, we found this to be true at all of the hotels we stayed in. I doubt you’ll find Aman-level service anywhere in Andalucia, though that’s not reason not to visit this wonderful part of the world. Our expectations were set properly, and we were very pleased with the service that we got.
Dining
Breakfast was a reasonably sized buffet spread of various fruits, meats, cheeses, breads and other Spanish items, along with a menu of cooked-to-order egg dishes. Nothing fancy or special here, but tasty nonetheless.
The lunch we had was quite good; it was a set menu of Andalucian specialties like salmorejo and eggplant fritters with honey. The salmorejo was among the best we tried on our trip (and we tried A LOT).
Overall
A very good hotel that has a few things holding it back from being “great.” Still, it’s probably the best game in town, in an excellent location (easy walk to the center, but far enough to escape the daytime tour groups and crowds), and I’d happily return if we were in Cordoba again.
Cordoba Meal Tips: We loved our meals at Taberna Luque (a charming small restaurant run by a husband-and-wife team, traditional Andalucian cooking) and Regadera (a more modern take on classics, but very well-executed and not forced like this style can often be).
Booking/Pre-Arrival
We booked a Virtuoso rate (this is the only Virtuoso property in town) that included the usual amenities, as well as a tapas lunch in their courtyard (set menu, alcohol not included). The “welcome drink” was actually a full bottle of Cava waiting in our room.
I emailed the hotel a few times to help with on-the-ground arrangements, and emails took a few days to get answered (when they were answered at all). Email communication wasn’t a strong suit here, though on-site service was very good.
Room
We booked a junior suite and received a generous upgrade to (naturally) “The Don Quixote Suite.”
This signature suite was quite unique, with scenes from the book painted on the walls, and lots of old-world charm.
With that charm, however, came a couple of quirks:
- The bathroom door didn't stay closed. While the shower and toilet had separate (glass) doors, they afforded no privacy, and this was annoying. We ended up using the bathroom trash can to hold the door closed.
- The windows opened into a courtyard that was accessible by other hotel guests. So when the shades were open, people can see inside your suite (and bathroom!).
Property
The grounds of the hotel were peaceful. We enjoyed the Virtuoso-included lunch in the tranquil courtyard very much. The roman baths in the spa (which you need to make an appointment for, so you have them all to yourself) were also a nice way to relax, though the spa itself was quite small. The breakfast dining room is really interesting, as the tables all sit on a glass floor that overlooks the roman ruins beneath the hotel....a fun way to start the day!
Service
Service here was...solid. The staff were all nice and friendly. The upgrade they gave us was generous. We felt welcome. But it was missing the empathy and anticipation of needs that truly make some of our favorite hotels great. And really, we found this to be true at all of the hotels we stayed in. I doubt you’ll find Aman-level service anywhere in Andalucia, though that’s not reason not to visit this wonderful part of the world. Our expectations were set properly, and we were very pleased with the service that we got.
Dining
Breakfast was a reasonably sized buffet spread of various fruits, meats, cheeses, breads and other Spanish items, along with a menu of cooked-to-order egg dishes. Nothing fancy or special here, but tasty nonetheless.
The lunch we had was quite good; it was a set menu of Andalucian specialties like salmorejo and eggplant fritters with honey. The salmorejo was among the best we tried on our trip (and we tried A LOT
).Overall
A very good hotel that has a few things holding it back from being “great.” Still, it’s probably the best game in town, in an excellent location (easy walk to the center, but far enough to escape the daytime tour groups and crowds), and I’d happily return if we were in Cordoba again.
Cordoba Meal Tips: We loved our meals at Taberna Luque (a charming small restaurant run by a husband-and-wife team, traditional Andalucian cooking) and Regadera (a more modern take on classics, but very well-executed and not forced like this style can often be).
Last edited by LM225; Mar 22, 2016 at 4:55 pm
Mar 22, 2016, 3:45 pm
#3
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,151
AC Palacio de Santa Paula, Granada
AC Palacio de Santa Paula, Granada
Booking/Pre-Arrival
I considered the AC Palacio versus the Hospes property in town (which is a Virtuoso hotel, while the AC is not), and ultimately chose it based on location and reviews. While the AC doesn’t have Virtuoso affiliation, it is a pilot member of Marriott's new "Accolades" program, which pricesquire is a partner of and was able to score us some free perks, like a suite upgrade and a fruit plate. Late checkout was also offered, though we didn’t need it.
This is an Autograph Collection hotel as well, so you can earn Marriott or R-C points.
Room
This room -- and this entire hotel -- felt much more modern than the Hospes property we had come from, and these photos should make that pretty clear:
It was a nice-enough suite; nothing too remarkable, but plenty of space. Sadly our bathroom woes continued, as the bathroom had a not-completely-opaque glass door that could be seen through by anyone walking by.
Service
Again, service was friendly, without the above-and-beyond touches that make for “wow” service. Not a whole lot else to comment on here, as our interaction with staff was quite light.
Overall
Other than the room, we spent very little time at the hotel. Can’t speak to the dining either, as we didn’t eat at the hotel, even for breakfast. The location was good, in between the Alhambra and the fun Albaicin neighborhood (though both require a not-insignificant uphill walk...we really enjoyed this, though others may not!). It did feel a bit “Marriott-y” in its size and decor. If I returned to Granada, I’d be happy to return here, or to try out the Hospes property. But for a short stay, the AC Palacio did the trick without issue.
Granada Meal Tips: Cafe 4 Gatos is a very casual breakfast spot with excellent sandwiches, and La Oliva was one of the highlight dinners of our trip...run by the proprietor of an olive oil shop (“this isn’t a restaurant and I’m not a chef”, he loved to say), this place hosts private dinners focused on showcasing Spanish olive oil, but delivering so much more. We had a great time and left VERY stuffed with delicious home-style Spanish food and wine.
Booking/Pre-Arrival
I considered the AC Palacio versus the Hospes property in town (which is a Virtuoso hotel, while the AC is not), and ultimately chose it based on location and reviews. While the AC doesn’t have Virtuoso affiliation, it is a pilot member of Marriott's new "Accolades" program, which pricesquire is a partner of and was able to score us some free perks, like a suite upgrade and a fruit plate. Late checkout was also offered, though we didn’t need it.
This is an Autograph Collection hotel as well, so you can earn Marriott or R-C points.
Room
This room -- and this entire hotel -- felt much more modern than the Hospes property we had come from, and these photos should make that pretty clear:
It was a nice-enough suite; nothing too remarkable, but plenty of space. Sadly our bathroom woes continued, as the bathroom had a not-completely-opaque glass door that could be seen through by anyone walking by.
Service
Again, service was friendly, without the above-and-beyond touches that make for “wow” service. Not a whole lot else to comment on here, as our interaction with staff was quite light.
Overall
Other than the room, we spent very little time at the hotel. Can’t speak to the dining either, as we didn’t eat at the hotel, even for breakfast. The location was good, in between the Alhambra and the fun Albaicin neighborhood (though both require a not-insignificant uphill walk...we really enjoyed this, though others may not!). It did feel a bit “Marriott-y” in its size and decor. If I returned to Granada, I’d be happy to return here, or to try out the Hospes property. But for a short stay, the AC Palacio did the trick without issue.
Granada Meal Tips: Cafe 4 Gatos is a very casual breakfast spot with excellent sandwiches, and La Oliva was one of the highlight dinners of our trip...run by the proprietor of an olive oil shop (“this isn’t a restaurant and I’m not a chef”, he loved to say), this place hosts private dinners focused on showcasing Spanish olive oil, but delivering so much more. We had a great time and left VERY stuffed with delicious home-style Spanish food and wine.
Last edited by LM225; Mar 22, 2016 at 4:56 pm
Mar 22, 2016, 3:46 pm
#4
Original Poster
Join Date: Apr 2008
Posts: 1,151
Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville
Hotel Alfonso XIII, Seville
Booking/Pre-Arrival
While this is both a Virtuoso and FHR property, I booked a 4th-night-free rate that wasn’t stackable with those amenities, and pricesquire successfully scored us a suite upgrade yet again. The rate included breakfast and we still got a lovely welcome amenity (a bottle of Rioja and some Spanish cheese and olived), so we didn’t miss out on much here.
The Alfonso XIII is a Starwood Luxury Collection property, and my (entirely un-earned) Gold status scored us the option of 250 bonus points or two free cocktails. As I haven't yet figured out a way to drink points, it was a no-brainer to take the drinks
Room
We booked a junior suite. As we were visiting directly before Holy Week (we actually departed on the first day of the festivities) and the hotel was sold out on our last night, I didn’t expect anything, but sure enough, we arrived to a generous suite upgrade.
Easily the nicest room (and hotel) of the trip, this suite was spacious and very nicely decorated (sorry for the dark photos):
We especially loved the blackout shades (operated by a button near the bed), and the mattress was among the most comfortable we’ve slept on.
And finally, a bathroom with a proper door
Service
Just as this was the best hard product we experienced on our trip, the Alfonso also delivered the best service. All requests -- extra towels, shoe shine, anything in the dining room -- were handled quickly and with polish, and staff were always eager to help with reservations and directions. The team is clearly proud to work at this hotel, which I always appreciate.
Dining
Breakfast was excellent, with a varied buffet of high-quality hot and cold items, and made-to-order eggs. The breads were especially good, as were the omelets. The hotel has an impressive cocktail menu as well, and sipping drinks in the courtyard as the sun sets is an experience I remember fondly.
Property
This property was built as the first luxury hotel in town to host friends of the king for the 1929 Ibero-American Expo. It’s steeped in history, and all-around gorgeous. They take great care with the small details like the wax sculptures in the lobby and ornate tiling in the breakfast room and courtyard.
Eating breakfast looking out onto the courtyard was a treat, and while it was too cold to take advantage of the pool while we were there, it looked like it would be fun in the warmer months.
The gym is small, but I was always the only one there, so it never felt crowded.
Overall
The Alfonso is in an incredibly central location, smack between the Reales Alcazares and the Cathedral.This is a great property, and the only one on our trip that I’d consider a destination in itself. I recommend it without hesitation.
Seville Dining Tips: Our best traditional meals were at Bodeguita Romero, El Comercio (try the house-made sweet vermouth) and Enrique Becerra try the house-made vermouth) and Enrique Becerra (pork cheeks and bacalao purses), and our best “modern” meals were at Eslava (the fish cigars are incredible and far more delicious than they sound) and conTenedor (the duck rice still haunts me).
Booking/Pre-Arrival
While this is both a Virtuoso and FHR property, I booked a 4th-night-free rate that wasn’t stackable with those amenities, and pricesquire successfully scored us a suite upgrade yet again. The rate included breakfast and we still got a lovely welcome amenity (a bottle of Rioja and some Spanish cheese and olived), so we didn’t miss out on much here.
The Alfonso XIII is a Starwood Luxury Collection property, and my (entirely un-earned) Gold status scored us the option of 250 bonus points or two free cocktails. As I haven't yet figured out a way to drink points, it was a no-brainer to take the drinks
Room
We booked a junior suite. As we were visiting directly before Holy Week (we actually departed on the first day of the festivities) and the hotel was sold out on our last night, I didn’t expect anything, but sure enough, we arrived to a generous suite upgrade.
Easily the nicest room (and hotel) of the trip, this suite was spacious and very nicely decorated (sorry for the dark photos):
We especially loved the blackout shades (operated by a button near the bed), and the mattress was among the most comfortable we’ve slept on.
And finally, a bathroom with a proper door
Service
Just as this was the best hard product we experienced on our trip, the Alfonso also delivered the best service. All requests -- extra towels, shoe shine, anything in the dining room -- were handled quickly and with polish, and staff were always eager to help with reservations and directions. The team is clearly proud to work at this hotel, which I always appreciate.
Dining
Breakfast was excellent, with a varied buffet of high-quality hot and cold items, and made-to-order eggs. The breads were especially good, as were the omelets. The hotel has an impressive cocktail menu as well, and sipping drinks in the courtyard as the sun sets is an experience I remember fondly.
Property
This property was built as the first luxury hotel in town to host friends of the king for the 1929 Ibero-American Expo. It’s steeped in history, and all-around gorgeous. They take great care with the small details like the wax sculptures in the lobby and ornate tiling in the breakfast room and courtyard.
Eating breakfast looking out onto the courtyard was a treat, and while it was too cold to take advantage of the pool while we were there, it looked like it would be fun in the warmer months.
The gym is small, but I was always the only one there, so it never felt crowded.
Overall
The Alfonso is in an incredibly central location, smack between the Reales Alcazares and the Cathedral.This is a great property, and the only one on our trip that I’d consider a destination in itself. I recommend it without hesitation.
Seville Dining Tips: Our best traditional meals were at Bodeguita Romero, El Comercio (try the house-made sweet vermouth) and Enrique Becerra try the house-made vermouth) and Enrique Becerra (pork cheeks and bacalao purses), and our best “modern” meals were at Eslava (the fish cigars are incredible and far more delicious than they sound) and conTenedor (the duck rice still haunts me).
Last edited by LM225; Mar 22, 2016 at 5:37 pm
Mar 22, 2016, 5:22 pm
#6
Community Director Emerita
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Anywhere warm
Posts: 33,742
We've done a sweep of these cities a few years back, so found your report of particular interest. I had no idea that Marriott now has a property in Granada. Fascinating. For those who wonder, we've stayed in the paradore that is connected to the Alhambra (Granada). While the location is exceptional, the room was small and cramped. I don't recommend it. However, in Seville, we stayed both at the Alfonso XIII and after a sweep thru Ronda, Granada, and Cordoba, spent a night at the paradore high on the hill in a tiny town outside Seville. It is called Paradore Carmona. Paradores can be stunning historical properties, but as state run hotels, rooms give no sense of luxury even when common areas do. Still, it's worth a drive up to it to see it. The Parador de Ronda has a phenomenal location by the gorge that runs thru this fascinating town. Not to be missed.
Mar 23, 2016, 5:15 am
#10
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: London
Posts: 3,439
Great report - thanks.
The Alfonso XIII has been on my wish list for a long time - we went for drinks a few years ago and decided that we would stay there next time - now that BA have started flying there again I must plan a trip.
The Alfonso XIII has been on my wish list for a long time - we went for drinks a few years ago and decided that we would stay there next time - now that BA have started flying there again I must plan a trip.
Mar 23, 2016, 6:29 am
#11
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: UK
Posts: 1,644
Glad to see the Alfonso is still a nice place to stay. We went there many years ago, mainly because of its starring role in my favourite movie, Lawrence of Arabia. Of course, being built in 1929 meant it was an anachronism but it was still a great location and a perfect impersonation of the British Officer's Club in Cairo!
Mar 23, 2016, 11:25 am
#12
Community Director Emerita
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Anywhere warm
Posts: 33,742
It was closed for renovation from mid 2011 thru early 2012. I was happy to see this review here as my stay was pre renovation. There is also a thread in the Starwood forum on the hotel.
Mar 23, 2016, 11:34 am
#13
Original Member
Join Date: May 1998
Location: NJ
Posts: 3,335
The Alfonso is a terrific property -- one of our favorite hotels, from a couple of trips to Sevilla, most recently in 2014. We were also at the Carmona Parador, which is very nice (although certainly not a luxury property like the Alfonso). Carmona is an interesting little hilltop castle town, worth a morning or afternoon if touring the area.
Mar 23, 2016, 12:39 pm
#15
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: New York
Programs: Virtuoso, Four Seasons Preferred Partner, RC STARS, MO FAN Club, Dorchester Diamond
Posts: 14
For those looking for a smaller, more boutique style property (10 rooms total), I recently had a fantastic stay at Balcon de Cordoba.