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Trip Report: Raffles Dubai, Park Hyatt Dubai, Banyan Tree Al Wadi, Amanzoe

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Trip Report: Raffles Dubai, Park Hyatt Dubai, Banyan Tree Al Wadi, Amanzoe

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Old Jun 20, 2013, 6:13 pm
  #1  
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Trip Report: Raffles Dubai, Park Hyatt Dubai, Banyan Tree Al Wadi, Amanzoe

In some ways, this was an odd trip for us. My partner had wanted to go to Dubai for years. For various reasons, I had zero desire to do so, but we compromised and combined that with Amanzoe. Dubai was pretty much as I expected (but we stayed at some very nice properties), but Greece and Amanzoe both exceeded our expectations (and my expectations for Amanzoe were pretty high).

Last edited by xracer; Jun 20, 2013 at 6:31 pm
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Old Jun 20, 2013, 6:14 pm
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Raffles Dubai / Park Hyatt Dubai

Raffles

We were only here for two nights, so it’s hard to give a complete review. But I must say that we were very, very impressed – especially with the service. We booked into one of the Landmark Suites and were upgraded to one of the Presidential Suites. This is a seriously impressive suite – 3000+ sqft of space, his and hers (in our case his and his) bathrooms, huge bedroom, huge living area and separate dining room. There is also a kitchen area and a third bathroom. Best of all, there is a gigantic terrace with sweeping views of Dubai (well, what we could see beyond the constant cloud of dust that surrounded the city).

Service was exemplary. From the pickup at the airport (where we were met not only by the driver, but also the head concierge), to the front desk staff, butler, staff at the executive club, really everyone was top notch. I often find service at city hotels to be efficient, but not terribly warm. But this was certainly not the case here as staff had warmth in abundance (and were also very efficient). Raffles has ‘butler’ service and although we did not give ours much to do, he was always around, making sure everything was up to our expectations (and he went out of his way to get me some passion fruits, which I had a craving for).

The hotel has a small, but well provisioned gym, a decent spa (I didn’t get a massage, but my partner did and he indicated that both it and facilities were fine) and a very interesting pool (you will never wonder what time it is while you are there). The executive club was quite nice, with a decent presentation of food throughout the day. The breakfast buffet, as well as the a la carte breakfast options were quite good. We did not eat in any of the restaurants, but did have in room dining, which was excellent.

Note that this is a very ‘urban’ property. You are surrounded by buildings and roads and construction (that we saw but never heard). So, if you are looking for a more resort like experience, this property might not be for you. Also, I consider the view of the Dubai skyline from some of the rooms to be a huge asset of the property, but it looks like a building is going up right across the street that might, if it is high enough, encroach on this view. I will point out this detail when I post pictures.

Park Hyatt

We were here for less than 24 hours prior to leaving for Athens. This is a lovely property, with a much more resort like feel than the Raffles. I found the location on the creek to be very peaceful.

Service here was decent, but nowhere near at the level of the Raffles. We booked an entry level room, but were upgraded to a spa room. I normally like the spa rooms at PH properties, but this one was just odd. Having a bathroom sink in the middle of the bedroom was too strange for me. The room we were in was in need of a rehab and the A/C really struggled to keep up with the heat. The shower was nice, though.

The pool area here is lovely, with a very resort like feel. The gym was very well equipped, but hot to the point where we could not use it. We didn’t try the spa. Breakfast was excellent, as was in room dining.

The hotel is very close to the Dubai airport. We were able to depart and be at the gate waiting for our flight in 20 minutes. It was very convenient.
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Old Jun 20, 2013, 6:15 pm
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Banyan Tree Al Wadi

Banyan Tree gets a bad rap here and for the most part I get it. Having said this, I have had good luck with my various Banyan Tree stays and generally would recommend them, if expectations are set accordingly. For this trip we were debating between the BT and the Anantara Qasr Al Sarab. Ultimately, the deciding factors were that the BT was less than half number of keys as the Anantara; and since we were not going to Abu Dhabi, the BT was much easier to get to.

I am glad we stayed here. We were in their top level tented villa – Al Sahari. This (and only this) type includes butler service. And in this case, we had an excellent butler, which helped make the stay very pleasant. You are provided with a mobile phone which rings to the butler. Everything that we needed to arrange was done through him and he was very responsive.

We found the tented villa to be very nice, with an excellent layout – a large bedroom and office area, separate (small) living area and a huge bathroom. The outside area was also well designed, with a large daybed (shaded), a couple of chaise longues (in full sun) and a small dining table. The pool was also a very decent size (10m X 3m) and quite deep (5 feet). I was concerned that the A/C would not be able to keep up with the heat, but this was not the case (however, we did find that it was a bit noisy). The Al Sahari villas are quite well spaced from each other, allowing for ample privacy and the villa we were in had very nice views of the sand dunes that surround the resort.

Al Sahari villas include breakfast in the main dining room (which consisted of an average buffet) or in villa (which was an excellent choice and a better option than the buffet, in my option). Also included are evening hors d’oeuvres and drinks – a nice touch, but nothing extraordinary. Dinner at Safran (Thai) was excellent.

As far as facilities, there is a small gym and an excellent spa. At the time of our visit, there was no main pool, but one was being built. There are stables and some kind of facilities for falconry and other sports, but we did not visit these. The resort is somewhat spread out, but walkable. Bikes are also provided, but we did not use them. Buggy service is also decently prompt.

This is no Amanzoe (as you will see below), but it is a fine resort if you set expectations accordingly. Service was good, but not excellent. Honestly, we spent most of our time here in and around our villa, so we did not interact with many staff members other than the butler. And given the price that we paid, I found it to be very acceptable. Because we were there in May and the heat was already considerable, our main goal was to relax around the villa and enjoy the pool and the view and we were very happy doing this here.
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Old Jun 20, 2013, 6:16 pm
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Amanzoe

Amanzoe was an extraordinary experience in almost all regards. Having been to Amanruya last year, we were a bit apprehensive that the resort (location, not design) would be very similar. It isn't. One thing that the various pictures and videos did not give me a feel for is how much this resort has a hill-top feel. This is completely different than Amanruya. Also, the countryside looks completely different (in a good way). Amanzoe is further away from the water than Amanruya is, but the beauty of the Greek countryside (and not just the water) more than made up for that. Having said this, if you are going to Greece to stay at a resort that is close to the water, Amanzoe may not be for you.

Unfortunately, our stay here started off on a bit of a sour note. We had arranged for Amanzoe to transport us from, and then back to, the airport. This transportation option is not cheap, so our expectations were high. It was clear when we met the driver at the airport that this service had been sub contracted out by Aman. The driver was not at all friendly, there was no real greeting to speak of (and certainly no towels or water or snacks in the car) and worst of all, the car reeked of cigarette smoke. It was really, nauseatingly bad. At some point after our arrival we discussed the situation with the resort manager and were assured that the trip back would be by an Aman driver and car (and it was). Also, the charge for the trip from the airport was removed from the bill without having to ask. I think this was very classy of them.

We were in villa #11, which is a ‘corner’ unit and had some extra outdoor space. This was one of the villas with the larger pool and a valley view. I have to say that I did not miss the ocean view at all and the views of the valley were absolutely spectacular – so, no problems there. Do be aware that if you are going to book a villa in the ‘valley’ view wing, villas with lower numbers can be overlooked by someone in the gym/yoga/children’s pool area. I would not accept a villa with a number lower than about 8 if you want a guarantee of privacy in the pool.

The villa itself was amazingly well done and masterfully designed (well, mostly). It’s clear that the highest level of materials and workmanship were used. I actually went around looking for places where corners were cut (since these are almost always evident, even at Amans) but found nothing here. I really loved the layout of the living/sleeping areas, given that the lower ceilings in the bedroom imparted a more ‘cozy’ feel and the higher ceilings of the living area really added to the sense of space. There were a number of very thoughtful touches throughout – for example, the sliding wood blinds in the bedroom were backed by screens, so you could open the glass doors completely, close the sliding blinds and not have to worry about bugs getting in. We did this at night and it was quite lovely to get a nice breeze. The villa is light and bright with floor to ceiling glass everywhere. The outdoor area was also fantastic, with plenty of shaded seating as well as two chaises which could be adjusted to get sun. Villa 11 also had an outdoor dining table as well, but only the corner units have that. The pool was lovely, but I had a couple of nits about it – it was a bit too narrow for my taste and it just was not deep enough (I believe the pool started at around two feet deep and only went to three feet at the ‘deep’ end). We had asked for the temperature to be changed in the pool several times and this was always done almost immediately (although it took a while for the change to take effect, of course). Outside, I really loved the use of rosemary and lavender (and so did my nose).

Mini bars in the villa are complimentary and well stocked.

My one complaint about the villa was the bathroom. From a design and usability perspective, I think it was a mess. First off, having two separate ‘bathrooms’ (not really full bathrooms, just a toilet and sink) did not feel luxurious to me – it felt superfluous. My partner and I have long ago figured out how to ‘navigate’ only having one toilet while on vacation (and I’ve a hunch that most couples and families have as well). And the fact that there needed to be two separate toilet rooms (each with an adjoining closet) meant that the space was needlessly cut up (and both closets were very small). The shower is, visually, quite nice. I like that the glass ceiling makes one feel like one is outside even when inside. And there were two separate shower heads on either side of the shower. Unfortunately, the water pressure was very weak and the water never really got very hot. The tub was small and took a good 30 minutes to fill (and again, warm, not hot water), but the biggest negative for me was the stairs that go down to the sunken shower area and stairs that go back up to the ‘second’ bathroom area. This really impeded the flow and even worse, became a real hazard when the marble on the floor was wet (from the shower). I fell and nearly knocked myself out on the wet floor (yes, I was sober). I imagine this would also be a hazard for children. I realize all of this is nitpicking and in the big picture the design flaws of the bathroom did not detract from the experience – they just seem so glaring given that the rest of the villa was designed so, well, perfectly.

Service at the resort (except for the pick up) was very nearly perfect. I enjoyed the service at Amanruya last year, but service here was at another level entirely. I can honestly say it was among the best we have ever experienced. The level of English language skills was excellent (much better than at Amanruya) and the staff really seem to have very quickly mastered the art of knowing when to engage and when to allow some distance. We found everyone, from Henry and Char (especially Char who was just wonderful) Gray, Poppy (resort manager) and pretty much all of the staff to be warm and welcoming yet at the same time very efficient. All of staff (with the exception of some management) is Greek. Char was telling us how easy it was to recruit at Amanzoe and how doing so at Amanruya has been an ongoing nightmare. There were no real service slip ups that I can recall (even minor ones): we were always greeted by name, housekeeping was always in to ‘freshen up’ when we left the villa, everyone was always smiling and willing to chat if we wanted to. We always felt welcomed like friends and treated like royalty – and really, isn't that what we all want from Aman service?

One afternoon we had gone to Hydra and did not return until later in the evening (by choice, we were having fun). Char, who had by this time become used to our schedule (we usually eat and retire early) became very concerned that we were not back for our usual (early) dinner. When we saw her later that night, her obvious relief that we were OK was evident. This is indicative of the type of caring attention that we experienced during our time at the resort. In this case, her response did not seem overbearing or affected, but just genuinely concerned (and then happy that we were OK).

We did have a minor issue related to dining. We have some dining requirements (we try to eat vegetarian, but will eat fish/seafood occasionally) and I neglected to mention this prior to our arrival. As we sat down to dinner for the first night, we noticed that the menu was very limited and there were really no veggie options available outside of appetizers. At the time we were chatting with Char and mentioned this. She brought the chef over and we discussed it with him. He told us he would prepare a special veggie menu for us for the following night that we could use as a basis for the rest of our time there. Unfortunately, this menu never was presented (and we asked) and dining off menu didn’t really work very well. They never seemed to fully understand what we were looking for. Maybe this was a communication issue (although I doubt it since everyone spoke excellent English). Having said that, the food was excellent and well prepared and we were able to take the two veggie options on the menu and add and subtract ingredients to/from them to come up with some decent dishes. We also tried to get them to bring over the lunch menus from the beach club and lunch restaurant (since these had more vegetarian options on them), but they were never able to do this. So, all in all, I think dining (the logistics, not the quality and taste of the food) is something that still needs a bit of working on.

The resort has an excellent (and well provisioned) gym, yoga area with wonderful views and a fantastic spa. In the past, I have not been crazy about the spas (both in terms of design and treatments) at some Aman resorts, but this one is spectacular. The spa rooms and facilities are both top notch and my treatment was one of the (if not the) best I have ever had at any resort, anywhere. If I were to nitpick here, it would be to mention that there is really no ‘after treatment’ relaxation area.

The main pool area is lovely and, unlike Amanruya, I did not feel like it was ‘squeezed in’ to the space. There was plenty of space around the pool and, while it was next to the lunch restaurant, I did not feel like it was too close. The only complaint I have here is that there is no real view from the main pool, which seems odd considering the view from the kiddie pool, which is just a little ways from the main pool, is SPECTACULAR – probably the best views of the whole resort. Why they didn't just switch the two is beyond me.

The beach club is very nice – clean, wonderful (and in May, COLD) water and a nice, albeit man made beach. I was not a big fan of the two pools here, since the concrete ‘lip’ around them is so high that one cannot see anything but concrete when one is in the pool. They have designated one pool as adult/quiet and one as family, but given that they are right next to each other, I’m not sure how that will play out during the high season. Getting to the beach club is a 10-15 minute drive from the resort. I do not think one would want to walk or bike the distance. Service at the beach club was excellent, with someone right there to set up chairs, constant refills of water and, when we ordered lunch, it was served quickly and was excellent. There is a small (outdoor) dining area here as well.

As is typical for Aman, there are many places set up for relaxing around the common areas of the resort. I was surprised at how many ‘cold weather’ features the resort had (fireplaces, heating lamps). I would think this place would be very pleasant in the cooler months (assuming there was little rain).

I found the overall design of the resort to be pleasing. The location is certainly spectacular (much more than the pictures would have one believe). I enjoyed the juxtaposition of the light, airy interior spaces with the more classical Greek design elements. Having said this, I think in a couple of cases, the Greek elements are a bit overused (for my taste). I think the use of pillars was a bit overdone and the amphitheater just seems to be there for the sake of being there.

So, overall, we had an excellent time. I would say this is my best Aman experience, and one of my best overall resort experiences. Although I have highlighted some negatives in addition to the positives, the former pale in comparison to the latter. Go. I think you will be glad you did.
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Old Jun 20, 2013, 6:17 pm
  #5  
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Pictures

Outside area of our suite at the Raffles. Note the view and the construction going on across the street.


Raffles Dubai suite living room area (partial).


Another picture of the outside area of the Raffles suite and the view of Dubai.


Banyan Tree Al Wadi partial view of pool and surroundings.


Banyan Tree Al Wadi bedroom area.


Amanzoe partial view of pool and surroundings.


Amanzoe fireplace area by the main pool.


Amanzoe view.

Amanzoe main pool.


Amanzoe covered seating area of villa.


Amanzoe dining area of villa and surroundings.


Amanzoe view from villa.


Amanzoe another partial view of the pool and the surroundings.



If there are any more questions, I'm happy to respond, as always.

Also, I have a bunch more pictures. If there is something you want to see and I have a picture of it, I'm happy to post. Sorry, I know the picture quality is not great, but while on holiday, we are more into living in the moment than taking a lot of time to take perfect pictures, so this is the best I can do...

Last edited by xracer; Jun 20, 2013 at 6:30 pm
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Old Jun 20, 2013, 7:45 pm
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Thanks for the wonderful report xracer!
Amanzoe looks great
Sorry to hear about the transfer, I am surprised Aman would subcontract such an important service...
Did they have any bespoke excursions available at Zoe?
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Old Jun 21, 2013, 4:24 am
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Excellent report! Thanks.
When you have a moment, can you tell us more about any of the activities you may have done at these properties?
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Old Jun 21, 2013, 5:02 am
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absolutely incredible level of detail !
Originally Posted by xracer
Landmark Suites and were upgraded to one of the Presidential Suites

PH...A/C really struggled to keep up with the heat

depart and be at the gate waiting for our flight in 20 minutes
premium/VIP at airport or not? (potential) traffic?
(DXB also has paid VVIP - car on tarmac)

Originally Posted by xracer
Al Sahari
sounds like bath and living had AC, good.
did you consider a stay at BT ras al khaimah beach ?

Originally Posted by xracer
Service at the resort (except for the pick up) was very nearly perfect. I enjoyed the service at Amanruya last year, but service here was at another level entirely. I can honestly say it was among the best we have ever experienced.

spa rooms and facilities are both top notch and my treatment was one of the (if not the) best I have ever had at any resort, anywhere

view from the kiddie pool, which is just a little ways from the main pool, is SPECTACULAR – probably the best views of the whole resort

amphitheater just seems to be there for the sake of being there

one of my best overall resort experiences

Go. I think you will be glad you did.
wow

FS hualalai does use amphitheater there
i presume aman will eventually have some amazing offerings

Originally Posted by xracer
Sorry, I know the picture quality is not great, but while on holiday, we are more into living in the moment than taking a lot of time to take perfect pictures, so this is the best I can do
incredible pics !

Last edited by Kagehitokiri; Jun 23, 2013 at 10:31 am
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Old Jun 21, 2013, 7:07 am
  #9  
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Originally Posted by halibahs
Did they have any bespoke excursions available at Zoe?
Originally Posted by Ericka
Excellent report! Thanks.
When you have a moment, can you tell us more about any of the activities you may have done at these properties?
I am afraid I am going to disappoint here, since this was not really an activity heavy trip for us.

At Amanzoe, we had the resort drop us off at the water taxi to Hydra so we could enjoy the afternoon there. Then of course, they picked us up again after we had taken the water taxi back from the island. This was handled perfectly - they provided us with a mobile phone and arranged everything so that both the taxi and car would be waiting for us when we were ready.

I discussed renting one the the Aman boats for the day. In this, we found that they were very flexible in what we could do and where we could go. But in the end, the resort was so relaxing that we skipped it and pretty much just hung out and relaxed.

In Dubai, we took one of those 'big bus' tours. I know, horribly touristy, but it was kind of fun. The Raffles is very close to the pick up point for the bus tour (like everything else in Dubai, you just have to walk through a mall to get there), so it was convenient.

At the Banyan Tree, we went 'dune bashing', which is where you have a driver for an SUV and you go up and around and down and up the dunes. Again, it was kind of one of those 'typical tourist' things, but fun.
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Old Jun 21, 2013, 7:16 am
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Originally Posted by Kagehitokiri
premium/VIP at airport or not? (potential) traffic?
(DXB also has paid VVIP - car on tarmac)
I didn't really investigate what was available. The service that we had was just what Raffles provides their suite guests free of charge. I did not feel the need for any kind of security/passport assistance, since UAE is an 'easy' destination (at least for Americans) to arrive into.

Traffic in Dubai was pretty bad, but between the airport and the Raffles (and the PH, for that matter), it was very light - at least during the times that we were transiting.

Originally Posted by Kagehitokiri
sounds like bath and living had AC, good.
did you consider a stay at BT ras al khaimah beach ?
Both the bedroom and bathroom had separate A/C units. These were not wall units. They were under the tent and there were vents located all around the tent floors. There was also a backup wall unit in the bedroom area.

We thought about the BT RAK, but I think the beach there (like most of the of beaches in the UAE) is ugly. Plus, the villas are smaller and very tightly packed together.

Originally Posted by Kagehitokiri
FS hualalai does use amphitheater there
i presume aman will eventually have some amazing offerings
It's possible that it will be used in the future. And I think this would be cool. But when I asked, everyone (including management) seemed at a loss as to what they were going to do with it.
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Old Jun 21, 2013, 10:02 am
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Thanks a lot. Great reports!
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Old Jun 21, 2013, 3:23 pm
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Fabulous report and excellent pics ! ^ Thank you.
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Old Jun 21, 2013, 4:23 pm
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Great report - however given the problems you had at AmanZoe I think you are being overly generous in your praise of it. Vegetarian food is very easy to find in Greece given all their fresh produce as is of course fish.

We spent a few hours on Hydra last week - from our base in Spetses ( there was a sailing regatta on - our hotel The Poseidonion was one of the main sponsors and AmanZoe appeared as a minor sponsor) - I love Hydra and I really suggest anyone staying at AmanZoe spends some time there as well Spetses of course.
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Old Jun 21, 2013, 5:13 pm
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Originally Posted by quitecontrary
Great report - however given the problems you had at AmanZoe I think you are being overly generous in your praise of it. Vegetarian food is very easy to find in Greece given all their fresh produce as is of course fish.
Me too, a great report, but the praise and depth of the description given to the Aman hotel was surprising, given the fact that the OP has encountered so many issues there. Also of note, at least IMHO, I'm sure that more in-depth info could be said / written about the other hotels too. Would also love to see some room photos / property photos from the Park Hyatt Dubai.

Thanks to the OP for sharing your report with us, this is indeed very appreciated, overall however it felt a little bit " too Aman sided " despite the problems encountered at this hotel, which must have been the most expensive out of all the others.

Seeing the amount of write-up on the Aman property compared to the other hotels, does this mean you stayed longest at Aman during your trip?
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Old Jun 21, 2013, 5:16 pm
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Originally Posted by quitecontrary
Great report - however given the problems you had at AmanZoe I think you are being overly generous in your praise of it. Vegetarian food is very easy to find in Greece given all their fresh produce as is of course fish.

We spent a few hours on Hydra last week - from our base in Spetses ( there was a sailing regatta on - our hotel The Poseidonion was one of the main sponsors and AmanZoe appeared as a minor sponsor) - I love Hydra and I really suggest anyone staying at AmanZoe spends some time there as well Spetses of course.
You are, of course, welcome to your opinion. And I stick by mine. I am no Amanjunkie or Aman apologist (ask me about the horrible Amanpuri or Amanjena or why I would never go back to either), nor am I a stranger to luxury hotels. If if felt the negative outweighed the positive, I would have had absolutely no problem saying that. In this case I did not feel that this was true.

I agree that Hydra was a fun little island. Nothing spectacular, but well worth the trip.

Last edited by xracer; Jun 21, 2013 at 5:54 pm
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