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Hiroshima: Seto Inland Sea
During my visit to Hiroshima, I took the Setouchi Shimatabi Line cruise operated by Setouchi Sealine. This Seto Inland Sea cruise does not return to the same location. When I took this cruise, the morning cruise was eastbound, departing Hiroshima and ending at Mihara. The afternoon cruise was westbound in the reverse direction. It looks like currently, this cruise is operating between Hiroshima and Onomichi.
The cruise is operated by Sea Spica ship. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...7f9dbac5b9.jpg The first floor is an indoor seating area, seats were assigned seats. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...f65e95e37b.jpg The upstairs is an outside deck. Half of the time I spent at the outside deck. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...2259b52c51.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...553e7ac8f2.jpg The ship also has a small shop at the back where drinks, snacks, and souvenirs are available. All drinks and snacks were small size, but the price was same as regular size at conbini in the city. Could be better off to bring own. THe attendant/guide standing at right provide announcements/guide throughout the cruise. I think the guide is in Japanese only. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...6170ae59f0.jpg The departure at Hiroshima is at Hiroshima Port, which can be reached by Hiroshima tram, and Grand Prince Hotel Hiroshima. Departure time from Hiroshima coincide with morning rush hours. During weekdays it may take little longer to get to the departure point of this cruise. Cruising through the Seto Inland Sea. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...cfc2b8ec3f.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...79dee8dcf1.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...8b6b755ef3.jpg First stop, port city of Kure. Kure was a naval port before WWII and the battleship Yamato was built here. Shipbuilding continues today and also it is a major port for Japanese coast guard and self-defense force. The attendant provoded very through gide of Kure shipyard history and the current situation of Kure shipyard. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...4930561357.jpg https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1a9f3332c0.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...865637a080.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...be62bae69d.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...8500881c2a.jpg About this cruise ship Sea Spica. During G7 Hiroshima Summit in 2023, leaders visited Miyajima and from Hiroshima to Miyajima leaders took this Sea Spica, except for Biden from the U.S. Biden too Marine One. There is pictures onboard the ship. I sat on the chair where Macron and Kishida sat. :) https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...7b52f719e2.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...a5b4273b28.jpg First stop, Sanose at Shimokamagari Island. Had about an hour to stroll around the area. This island is known as where Korean diplomats stayed from Muromachi era to Edo era. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...174b5a3362.jpg https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...48e80a5780.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...128c366860.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...4d1141c174.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...bb076c23ee.jpg During the cruise there is an option for lunch, need to arrange before the day of the cruise, additional 1000 yen. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...b86118abe3.jpg The cruise continues. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...bbdda63a7a.jpg https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...bf200c563c.jpg Next stop, Ookuno Island. Ookuno Island has government operated hotel facility and also known as rabbit island. Why rabbits? Ookuno Island had military facility for chemical weapons during WWII. Rabbits were brought to the island to test chemical weapons. However, all rabbits brought in during the war was slaughtered and rabbits exists today were likely brought in during early '70's. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c29ea601fc.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...20ef25f55b.jpg https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...e60e2abbaf.jpg The cruise head to Mihara, final destination. Overall, this was a very nice cruise. Because the cruise does not return to Hiroshima, got to see wider area of the Seto Inland Sea form Hiroshima. There are other Seto Inland Sea cursues from Horoshima. I enjoyed this cruise very much, t was a nice way to experience the Seto Inland Sea. https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...865a5f76f7.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...27c40b14b9.jpg https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...7ce749e835.jpg Arriving at Mihara https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...2e1627049e.jpg |
Return to Hiroshima
The cruise ended at Mihara. From the port of Mihara to JR Mihara station is a quick 10 min. walk. Shinkansen stops at Mihara, and rom Mihara to Hiroshima is a quick 22 min. ride on the Shinkansen, the fare is 2330 yen.
However, returning to Hiroshima on quick 22 min. Shinkansen ride is boring. I went back to Hiroshima in different way. I took JR Sanyou line toward east (opposite of Hiroshima) to Onomichi two stations away. Mihara station https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...ef2ccd3f6d.jpg Took the local service train to Onomichi https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...d6fd459b89.jpg Onomichi station https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...f9017d6603.jpg Onomichi is a nice coastal town. Right in front of the train station is the Seto Inland Sea, a narrow strait where another side of the water is an island. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...cd28fa2c90.jpg Right by the station is a local shopping arcade with interesting Japanese shops, for locals and not much meant for tourists. https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...7b1c12ff6d.jpg Cooking knife shop https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...382cc3aa2c.jpg Japanese paper shop https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...446450fe13.jpg Uji tea shop https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c495c8c300.jpg Time to take a train back to Hiroshima. I took a tourist train etSETOra to Hiroshima from Onomichi run by JR West. etSETOra runs between Hiroshima and Onomichi and seats are advanced reservations only. Tickets for etSETOra have to be purchased in advance, no tickets are sold onboard etSETOra and they do check tickets before boarding the train. etSETOra runs along the JR Kure line, not the JR Sanyo line. JR Sanyo line is the direct between Onomich and Hiroshima runs along inland mountain area, where JR Kure line runs along the coast along the Seto Inland Sea. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...adedc81343.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...e06138e7da.jpg etSETOra has a counter which sells drinks, snacks, and souvenirs. Attendants will also make announcements during the journey at viewpoints, but I think announcements are in Japanese only. https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...5dae677e2e.jpg View of the Seto Inland Sea. The train will slow down at viewpoints, and will make complete stop at few points. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...7a90220679.jpg https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...1c10bd8636.jpg https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...5e99dc388a.jpg https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...44b9c7b853.jpg Setouchi Blossom cocktail and nuts onboard etSETOra. The drink uses Hiroshima craft gin Sakurao with Hiroshima lemon extract. During the Seto Inland Sea cruise I learned that Hiroshima is top lemon harvest area in Japan. Hiroshima is lemon! I had two or three of this drunk during the ride of etSETOra, hey I was on a vacation! THis is the reason I tend not to rent a car on vacation, I can drink anywhere and anytime I want! :) https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...940360fac5.jpg Sakurao, Hiroshima craft gin. Picture taken at the bar at Hilton Hiroshima. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...8eb2d42241.jpg Sun set at the Seto Inland Sea. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...0546ffdf49.jpg https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...8209fa68de.jpg Arrived back at Hiroshima station. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...93c1327b50.jpg I think this was a very nice way to see the Seto Inland Sea. One way from the ocean by the cruise. Got to take hike on few islands on the Seto Inland Sea. Another way by the train looking the Seto Island Sea along the coast. Good day trip from Hiroshi8ma. |
Hiroshima Food!
Let's talk about food at Hiroshima. When I travel, I tend to focus on local flavor.
At izakaya near Hilton Hiroshima. Menu in Japanese only. Cooks and servers were local Hiroshima and from Okayama. Pretty much local people only. Conversation was mix of Hiroshima and Okayama dialect. Hiroshima sake tasting. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...84b6c2f10a.jpg Otooshi (お通し), if you don't know what otooshi is..., the best way to explain is mandatory appetizer...? https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...3c6806e161.jpg Hiroshima oyster from the Seto Island sea. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...4d8a995256.jpg Ikura Oroshi (イクラおろし). Salmon roe with grated dikon radish. Japan is the place can have various roe (fish egg). Forget about first class caviar. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...c4ee46bd51.jpg Fried Hiroshima Oyster. https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...479f60a9a8.jpg Local fish form the Seto Inland Sea. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...fc1352ff5c.jpg Hiroshima Okinimiyaki at Okonomiyaki Mitchan. Okonomiyaki Mitchan is supposed to be one of the original Hiroshima Okonomiyaki places. I enjoyed crispy yakisoba noodle. :tu: https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...8b66c5aa7a.jpg Anago, freshwater ell, at Miyajima. Area around Miyajima is known for freshwater ell. https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...3be9b95258.jpg Hiroshima Gozen at Kanawa restaurant. Oyster hot pot with red miso, tempura (local Hiroshima fish including oyster), sashimi of local fish from the Seto Inland Sea, Takehara beef (Hiroshima local), and I added fresh oyster. Hiroshima sake to go along. Kanawa has a restaurant right by the peace park, which they messed up my reservation. Least they contacted me in advance that they messed up my reservation, I was not happy but why hold grudge? Kanawa has another restaurant at Hiroshima station, and this is where I had this meal. https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...416a08c8b3.jpg Lemon candy and lemon cake. Hiroshima is no. 1 in lemon harvest in Japan. https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...6e49cdd53f.jpg Momiji Manjyu, Hiroshima omiyage. Hiroshima Airport version. https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...551ccf4228.jpg Hiroshima sake, Suishin. Pack of three different sake. I prefer this over buying one big bottle. https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...3c33dcab86.jpg Hiroshima craft gin Sakurao white herbs flavor. https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.fly...3f8fd32e1a.jpg |
Hi
Excellent photos AlwaysAisle! I have been to Kure ( by train from hiroshima , visited the Yamato maritme museum ( 1:10 scale model of the yamato in an auditorium style lobby so you can see the yamato from below also ( when i visited there was a special exhibition on ww2 aricraft carriers and the JMSDF Kure museum with the submarine Akishio outside ( you can go on board the submarine ( one deck only but it has the captains quarters, control room and periscope ( enough signs in english to get by) Onomichi ( with its temple walk) is on my to do list when I'm in Japan in may ( probably a day trip from okayama) though the cruise does look fascinating Cruise details here Setouchi Shimatabi Line | Travel around Setouchi on the SEA SPICA regards TBS PS: Yamato museum is now closed for renovations until March 2026 but they have a full model zero observation aircraft used from Yamato in the satellite building |
Besides the model of the Yamato and actual Zero aircraft, the museum at Kure also exhibits some of the more arcane and sensational tools of war such as the midget suicide submarines (human torpedo) called “Kaiten” that were used during the final stages of WWII. The subs were packed with high-explosives and usually manned by one person who volunteered their life to pilot the craft and ram a battleship in an attempt to sink it via explosion. Besides suicide planes, other tools included suicide motorboats and suicide divers (human mines). The museum is very educational for those interested in Japan's modern wartime history and technology. Guidance Leaflet English - 大和ミュージアム（呉市海事歴史科学館）
On a side note, in the early 1980s, I worked for a small Japanese company in the suburbs of Tokyo and got to know the owner (a decent speaker of English) who once told me that he was a commander in Japan’s imperial navy and was one of the people in charge of the Kaiten program. He was also in Nagasaki when the A-bomb dropped but was sufficiently distant from the explosion to survive. |
Wonderful TR, thanks.
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Great trip report.
Sakurao is a nice gin. You can do a distillery tour. It is located very near Miyajima, so you can combine it with a trip there or the Shimose Museum. Sakurao Tour |
Awesome trip report! My father grew up in Hiroshima, so I often visit the city (and the Seto Inland Sea) for sentimental reasons and for its sheer beauty.
Note that Anago (aka Conger Eel) is sea eel. Unagi is freshwater eel. |
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