10 Days Tokyo/Osaka
 

After 25 years, I find myself finally returning to Japan. In the early 90's, I went to Japan for a work trip. I was excited to go then, and I'm excited to go now - I'm sure much has changed and much is still the same.

While I hope I don't need any specific help, any advice or suggestions are more than welcome. For background, I'm really an infrastructure/cool technology person, and less so someone who seeks out the traditional & historical - but I do think I'll try to get to Kyoto this time.

Arriving NRT, first 5 days are at the Hilton Shinjuku (points stay). I then have a night I still need to arrange, then I have two nights Hilton Osaka (also points stay), followed by another free night and then depart NRT later that next day.

I am considering the Century Hotel Southern Tower for the one night in Tokyo after my Hilton Shinjuku stay, mainly for their panoramic view rooms overlooking the station and the rest of Tokyo. I'm hoping to do some time-lapse work from that room - I suspect the Hilton doesn't have good views given what I've seen on Google Earth. Yes, I know it means schlepping bags for just one night.

I'm going to try to get a front seat on the Odakyu Romancecar service to Hakone and back for a day when I'm in Tokyo; but it doesn't have to be any particular day. Hopefully I can swing that through the website, but they (Odakyu) have an email address I might try as well.

Being a bit of a geek, I'll want to hit the interesting train lines and stations in Tokyo, which I'm generally fairly familiar with already. Some of these will be non-JR so I'm still figuring if a JR rail pass is going to be anything that makes sense financially - especially since I'd like to use the Nozomi, and possibly even in the green car (feedback on green car on that route? Is it much of an upgrade? Certainly doesn't look like Gran Class).

I have considered taking the Shinkansen all the way to Hiroshima from Tokyo, briefly visiting there and then getting into Osaka - but it's likely I'll have all my bags with me if I can't figure out how to keep one in Tokyo, so that might be cumbersome to deal with.

My time in Osaka previously is a bit of a blur to me now; I really don't have any real ideas as to what do do there. This isn't a problem necessarily, just a statement - I'm sure I'll find things to do, places to go. The Hilton is right next to Osaka station, and I do remember having to transfer between Shin-Osaka and Osaka.

This is somewhat obviously a potential time for going up to Kyoto for a few hours.

I'd prefer to stay the last night in Tokyo, and I was thinking the Shinagawa Prince. It would have great Shinkansen access for the return and also good access for the NEX or Limousine Bus, whichever makes the most sense given the time of day. I spent my last visit in the Dai Ichi Seafort Square, so I'd like to re-visit the Shinagawa area to some small extent.

Besides "Domo" and "Hai" I don't speak any Japanese; it wasn't a problem last time and I doubt it will be a problem this time - except for eating here and there. I do want to try some of the smaller places, but let's say I'm not an adventurous eater as compared with many of you. Toss in a new allergy to shrimp (specifically, only shrimp that's starting to decay) and this is the only part of the trip that I'm somewhat unsure of - but I'm sure it will be fine.

Really looking forward to this trip!

>> Century Hotel Southern Tower for the one night in Tokyo ... Yes, I know it means schlepping bags for just one night.

Taxi. 7USD.

>> feedback on green car on that route? Is it much of an upgrade?

no. Slightly wider seat.

>>Shinkansen all the way to Hiroshima from Tokyo .... but it's likely I'll have all my bags with me

Use luggage delivery between hotels, and you only carry a day bag. That's how Japanese travel.

Is that takkyubin? Forgot about that!

In the past 25 years, all the major stations in Tokyo have added extensive shopping and office arcades, part of the quasi-privatization of JR. You will have no trouble finding places to eat, and the food scene has globalized, in the sense that you can find real Indian curry and real Chinese food, as opposed to curry rice and chuuka ryoori.

I don't eat shrimp either (I'm not allergic; I just don't lie it), and it's easy to avoid, especially if you concentrate on eating at places with picture menus or plastic models. The fishy broth you find in noodle shops and in other dishes is made with dried bonito.

I know this is my standard suggestion, but I suggest buying city guidebooks for Tokyo and Kyoto. Kyoto guidebooks also contain information on Osaka, and in fact, I suggest using your time in Osaka to commute to Kyoto, since from the point of view of the casual tourist, Osaka is not different enough.

And when it comes to cool train stations, Kyoto wins, hands down.

Unfortunately, it's in the wrong town. A monolithic eyesore that blocks the north-south continuity of a city that was designed a thousand years ago to be continuous north-south. And it isn't aging well, it has too much of the classic bubble white elephant "why the hell did we build this" feel to it.

I think Tokyo's train station is a marvel of modernity while not just retaining, but celebrating the nation's rail heritage.

Unless the policies changed, Hilton Tokyo should be able the hold your bags for you, even if you are not returning for your last night at the hotel. Have done it before there, and also in other international chains in Tokyo. Or you can ask Hilton to send it to your hotel for your last night in Tokyo, if you don't need it while in Osaka/elsewhere.

There's also the Prince Sakura Tokyo Tower (under Marriott) and The Strings (under IHG) which u can consider.

Tech suggestions: In Tokyo, my #1 go-to used to be the Sony Building in Ginza, which is temporarily closed. If you are into VR click here and here.

Someone in another thread suggested Miraikan in Odaiba, where there are lots of arcades and attractions nearby.

Kyoto could have chosen to restore "north south continuity" with a different design, but I won't blame the current station for damage that was done long ago by constructing east-west railway lines. I prefer the current station to what was there before:
https://netmobius.global.ssl.fastly....to_Station.jpg

Now I wish they could tear down the ugly "candle " Kyoto Tower.

I think Kyoto Station is amazing. It has to be the most striking station in Jpn. Those steps and escalators that descend forever into the bowels of the station (or ascend into the sky as you look up from the concourse), those catwalks high above the atrium, high ceilings, hangout spot at the top, mezanine with Cafe du Monde, how the place lights up at night... to me it's truly mesmorizing.

In terms of shopping/eating selections, though, Kyoto Station is a bit disappointing. There's only one department store, restaurant selection could be better, and it seems like all of the many Kyoto gift stores in the station stock the same food items, none of which comes close in quality to what you could find elsewhere in Kyoto. The shopping/eating/entertainment content is better and much more extensive in Tokyo, Osaka, Ikebukuro, even Kawasaki station complexes.

I do agree that Kyoto Tower is weird, but I don't have strong feelings about it and now it has become a bit of a Kyoto landmark itself.

I was inside it once, back in the days when it was one of the few places in Japan that had a Citibank ATM and therefore one of the few places where my U.S.-based debit card would work. I did get a really nice totebag at one of the shopping stalls, one that I still get compliments on, but the building is an eyesore.

All know the how but not the why. The Cafe du Monde at Kyoto Station doesn't sell beignets. Can't get much more pointless than that.

Really? More striking than the rebuilt Tokyo Station with the cupolas and the mosaics?

It's just a matter of opinion. I can totally understand people's appreciation for the classic facade and the dome. But I'm just much more awestruck by Kyoto Station's layout and the sheer magnitude of its atrium/stairs. Then again I'm just a simple guy, not an architectural connoissor.

I'm closing out this trip now as I type, waiting in the Hilton Shinjuku for the bus back to NRT.

While I thought I had a handle on things when I was here years ago, I also didn't have much time on my own. After 9 days of 100% self-directed time, I'm (happily) overwhelmed by all that I've seen and experienced.

I'll post a trip report at some point after I return.

As I posted elsewhere, the continuous rain has put a slight damper (hmmmm... pun?) on things overall; I'll have to come back in the future and try my weather luck again.

Food: Great
Service/Hospitality: Outstanding
Infrastructure: Amazing
Weather: *%(#_@%#%

Rode the Odakyu Romancecar couple times. Very nice train. Really enjoy the Mt Fuji's view. Fun experience buying all kinds of takeout Japanese food and snacks to bring on the Romancecar for the long trip.