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Old Aug 8, 2017, 6:15 pm
  #1  
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Help with Ryukyu Islands?

I already have RT flights (SFO-NRT) booked with ANA from 03/18 to 04/05.

We'll be staying in Tokyo for the majority of the trip: 15 nights total from 03/19 (+1 day with travel) to 04/03 (check-out for Tokyo booking, leaving us with 2 unaccounted nights before our return flight).

* 04/03 = Tuesday.

* 04/05 = Thursday.


My wife needs to be back at work in San Francisco on Monday, 04/09.

I am strongly considering pushing our return flight back, in order to take advantage of the weekend, rather than depart on a Thursday. Pending availability of award seats and whatever info I'm able to gain from this thread, I would ideally aim for a departure on Sunday, 04/08.

That would potentially leave us with 5 extra days... flying back on the 6th.

My wife and I have discussed every possible nearby destination from other countries (China, DPRK, etc.) to places within Japan.

We think we've finally settled on the southern archipelagoes - either the Okinawa Islands or Ōsumi Islands and Yakushima.

I understand that they're very different in terms of geography, landscape, and culture, but I would like to focus on logistics more than anything. I have a few questions that I think would be really helpful in narrowing things down...

1) Assuming we have 5 days total (04/03 to 04/08) and will be travelling from Tokyo (presumably by JAL) is there an island destination that immediately comes to mind when considering ease of access and ideal duration of stay? Is there a destination that comes to mind which leans the opposite; i.e. too narrow a time window to really enjoy/experience or too difficult to reach (requiring numerous / lengthy transfers or overnights) considering what we're working with?

2) If you had to pick between Yakushima and *any* of the Okinawan Islands - strictly in terms of uniqueness and setting (nature) - which would you favor and why? Which is the most exceptional and unlike any other place, domestically or otherwise?

3) If choosing to stay in Okinawa, would you island hop or plant yourself in a single location and if the latter, would you choose to stay in Okinawa-hontō or one of the lesser populated and more remote islands?

4) If staying in Okinawa-hontō: Naha or Nago or elsewhere? Naha seems to offer the most options in terms of food and culture (i.e. museums, local markets, nightlife, etc). Nago is where the fancy beach resorts seem to be concentrated. Is this because they're better situated along the beaches; is it a more scenic area? How close in proximity is Nago to the military zone and does it "feel" like an occupied island? Is the location of the USAF base intrusive at all to any nearby vacation stay? What about Nanjō? There's a really nice seaside ryokan in this district with some pretty good restaurants nearby. Is it much trouble commuting around the island; Google Maps is showing at least 30m to 1h between some of these districts but I wonder if it's easier with public transit? Would it be a cinch to stay in Nanjō and still head out to Naha for meals without spending half an hour in transit?

5) If choosing an outer island, what criteria would you use in deciding where to stay and do you have a preference (based on travel experience) for Ishigaki, Miyako, Iriomote and Taketomi, etc? Will these islands feel much more exotic than the main island of Okinawa? Would you break up your time among them, take day trips by ferry or charter, or would you just bury yourself in one of the above locations for maximum r&r? I'm reading a Conde Nast article right now that advocates flying into Ishigaki, ferrying to Taketomi as a base, and then visiting different islands each day. Has anyone done something like this and is it easy and relatively affordable?

6) Comparing the main island to smaller outlying islands, does Okinawa-hontō just feel like a typical beach city? Is the uniqueness of Okinawa found in its more remote islands, or does the main island offer more diversity in terms of good food, culture + nature and beaches? If we were to *only* visit the main island, would you consider it to be a wasted opportunity? If we were to *only* visit the smaller islands (I realize JAL likely flies into the main island) would you consider it to be a wasted opportunity?

7) If dividing our limited time between main island and smaller islands, what would be the ideal breakdown and could you propose a suggested itinerary; i.e. days 1-3 at __; 4-5 at __?

8) In my limited research of the smaller islands like Iriomote and Taketomi, my primary concern is that many of the properties appear to be geared around golf or family style pool resorts with limited activities. We tend to avoid large beach style resorts but would consider if the location itself were the draw (think some of the more upscale Philippine or Thailand beach destinations where people go to get lost; where relatively isolated sandy beaches, diving, snorkeling and reefs are the selling point). After 15 nights in Tokyo, I certainly don't mind laying around the beach for 5 days, however, I tend to not think of Okinawa or any of the Amami, Tokara, Satsunan Islands in that way; I could be mistaken. I certainly don't mean to offend, but I sort of have this idea of this whole archipelago as kind of a second-rate Japanese version of the Hawaiian Islands, albeit with fascinating indigenous culture that I'm very much interested in exploring. My question is whether there's any great risk of getting bored or feeling TOO isolated if spending the entire time on say, Taketomi, or the like? I wouldn't want to feel like we're stuck at some corporatey resort without decent food (only minor concern coming from Tokyo, eating capital of the world) and little to do but recline on beach chairs. I'd feel differently if this were the Maldives or Seychelles, of course - but it's obviously not that and so I want to get some opinions on this. We don't have a strict idea of what we're looking to get out of this little side trip, so we're pretty flexible but I wouldn't mind getting out to some very remote and picturesque natural scenery of any sort. We both agree that we want a departure and stark contrast from Tokyo. What we don't want is to be stuck at an out-of-the-way resort without transportation and little to do. If there is diverse landscape to explore like multiple beaches offering something different, swimming & diving, jungle/forest hiking, etc. that's one thing. If it's just manicured lawns and family style resort beaches and swimming pools and lousy hotel food, that's something different. We would really not enjoy the latter and I sort of get that sense from many of the places I've seen.

9) Okinawa vs Yakushima: which feels most like traveling to a different country altogether (unlike any other region of Japan)?

10) If choosing to visit Yakushima, does it matter what part of the island we base ourselves? Is it possible to divide our time between the forests, mountains and coast? Should we plan to spend a couple of nights inside the forest and a couple of nights by the ocean? Is it possible to stay within the national park itself and if so, have you any suggestions for lodging? I've looked at everything from Sankara Hotel, Moss Ocean House, Lodge Yaedake Sanso, Cottage Hana Mana, Cottage Hagami no Sato, Shikinoyado Onoaida, and Soyotei. Each appears to be drastically different in terms of setting and I'd greatly appreciate some help breaking it all down. If possible to remain in a single accommodation but still experience all parts of the island without compromise, that would seem ideal.

Any additional thoughts or considerations, suggestions, or otherwise helpful input that I may have overlooked in questions above would be very much welcomed and appreciated.

Thanks so much!

Last edited by OliverB; Aug 8, 2017 at 9:02 pm
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Old Aug 8, 2017, 7:03 pm
  #2  
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PS: I'm hoping to get everything sorted and booked by Monday, using this coming weekend to do all the research and planning. I'm worried about waiting too long to push back our return flight since my wife has to be home by April 9th and ANA might not have available reward seats flying out of Tokyo on the 8th (end of leaf peeping season). I'd like to filter through all options this week, plan and book over the weekend.
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Old Aug 9, 2017, 3:27 am
  #3  
 
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1) There are non-stop flights from Tokyo to Naha, Ishigaki, Miyakojima, making them easy to reach. If just sight-seeing, you might split the 5 days across two islands. But if you have an activity like scuba diving in mind, then one location. IIRC, Tokyo to Yakushima requires a connection, and flight times make it a bit of a hassle. I stayed a couple of days in Kagoshima and drove around southern Kyushu on my way there. So I think you might do that - or spend all five days on Yakushima.

2) If you're looking for exceptional natural settings, then Yakushima wins over any other place, IMHO. On a single-day hike, you can pass through three or four micro-climates with distinct flora and fauna.

4) Naha at that time of year.

9) To me, Okinawa feels like another country - with its own food, drink, culture, music, language, architecture. Yakushima sometimes feels like another planet - a planet colonized by Japan.

10) Rent a car and you can be at the foot of a mountain trail, or on a beach, or in town within 30 minutes, regardless of where you stay.
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Old Aug 9, 2017, 8:57 am
  #4  
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Thanks so much, jib - I was hoping this would make the decision easier but I'm still torn between Yakushima (which indeed sounds otherworldly) and the Okinawan islands. I suppose if we only have 5 days including travel, Yakushima probably makes less sense give that there are no direct flights. :/

Have you ever been to Iriomote Island? I've read that it's often referred to as the 'Galapagos of Japan' and it looks pretty incredible with white sand beaches, coral reefs, waterfalls, lush jungle, etc. There seems to be a lot of adventurous options from taking a sightseeing cruise through the mangroves of the Nakama River to kayaking excursions in Pinaisara Falls or swimming in the plunge basin of Nahra falls; swimming and snorkeling at Ida + Hoshizuna no Hama, beach day at Tsukigahama, snorkeling at Okuiriomote reef, jungle cruise along the Urauchi River to Gunkan-iwa and Mariudo Waterfall, nighttime jungle treks to see the Yaeyama fireflies, water buffalo taxi carriage to Yubu Island, ferry to Barasu Island, etc.

I'm now considering whether to just spend all 5 days on Iriomote. From the photos I've seen, it looks much more like SE Asia than it does anywhere in Japan, which is exciting. Accommodations on Iriomote seem to be limited compared to the other more populated islands, which I suppose is a good thing as it surely limits tourism and keeps the island more natural and less developed. I'm trying to decide if this is the best way to experience Okinawa and if we should actually plant ourselves on Iriomote or nearby Taketomi and just take the daily interisland ferries to do all of the above. Do you know approx. how long the transfer times between Taketomi and Iriomote are, and whether it would be a hassle to do that every other day versus just staying on Iriomote? I did just come across a very nice ryokan on Iriomote built in traditional nuchijaa architecture with the clay roof tiles and white Okinawan limestone walls that looks great. I can't decide between Iriomote, Taketomi, or the main island + day trips by ferry.

I wish we had 10 days total so that we could split up a few nights between each island but with 5 days incl. travel from Tokyo and back, we're pretty restricted with time and I think we need to be more focused. I just can't decide on where that focus should be directed, unfortunately.

Last edited by OliverB; Aug 9, 2017 at 9:28 am
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Old Aug 9, 2017, 9:41 am
  #5  
 
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I have not been to the Ryukyus myself, but I recall from reading about them that the inhabited islands have minshuku, so you might want to look into that.
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Old Aug 9, 2017, 9:52 am
  #6  
 
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Originally Posted by OliverB
Have you ever been to Iriomote Island?
Nope. AFAIK, Ishigaki is the "hub" for all ferries around there, so you could base yourself there and take daytrips or overnight trips to Iriomote and Taketomi.

Ishigaki to Taketomi is a 15 minute ferry trip with frequent departures from 7:30am to 6pm
http://www.aneikankou.co.jp/water_ro...etail/taketomi

Ishigaki to Iriomote is 50 minutes
http://www.aneikankou.co.jp/water_routes/detail/uehara

Both islands look really cool. I think I'd be happy just doing a day-trip to Taketomi. Iriomote could be enjoyable for a few days if I signed up for some interesting tours - kayak tours / diving / jungle treks. I'd want to be with a guide. YMMV, of course.
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Old Aug 9, 2017, 1:42 pm
  #7  
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Thanks again!

It looks like it's approximately 25-40 minutes from Katekori to Iriomote by ferry (depending on whether you're going to Ohara or Uehara port) so it does seem possible to base ourselves on Katekori Island and head to Iriomote in the mornings for guided jungle adventures and river tours, if we decided not to stay on Iriomote-jima. I don't think there's any need to transfer to Ishigaki as the ferry between Katekori and Iriomote looks to be direct according to this page: http://www.ishigaki-japan.com/transport/ferries

I'm going to sit down with my wife tonight or tomorrow and try to figure out what sort of vacation we want -- jungle adventure on Iriomote (in which we'll have to decide whether to stay on the island itself or Katekori) versus the main island plus a couple of day trips. Tough decision... I suppose we could potentially cut 5 nights out of Tokyo and do both (save our hotel points for a future trip) but I feel as though we might regret that, given that Japan is not on our radar again for some time going forward, following this trip.
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Old Aug 10, 2017, 3:31 am
  #8  
 
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Originally Posted by OliverB
It looks like it's approximately 25-40 minutes from Katekori to Iriomote by ferry (depending on whether you're going to Ohara or Uehara port) so it does seem possible to base ourselves on Katekori Island and head to Iriomote in the mornings for guided jungle adventures and river tours
Kaketori? Is that an auto-correct for Taketomi?

AFAICT, the schedule for direct ferries between Taketomi and Iriomote is not helpful. I can only see a couple of departures in the middle of the day. I guess it might be useful if you were planning a stay on Iriomote, followed by a stay on Taketomi, and you really didn't want to transfer in Ishigaki.

This is the April-Sept 2017 timetable for Yaeyama Kanko Ferries:
http://www.yaeyama.co.jp/timetable.html

And here's the Aneikanko service from Iriomote to Taketomi (second row, left side)
http://www.aneikankou.co.jp/water_routes/other

Then again, perhaps I've missed something. Where did you find your ferry info?

I'm having fun looking into all of this ... I've often thought that it would be fun to travel up the length of Japan through as many islands as possible; backtracking as little as possible. I believe that there are cruises from Taiwan that visit Yonaguni or Iriomote, but AFAIK, it's not possible to enter Japan through those islands....
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Old Aug 14, 2017, 11:04 am
  #9  
 
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I'm actually booked to stay on Iriomote for the second half of a Japan trip in October. We'll be arriving on a Sunday and leaving on a Wednesday, which makes me worried that we won't have enough time with all the travel from Tokyo factored in.

For the most part, the lodging didn't look great so we bit the bullet and are staying at the Hotel Nirakanai Iriomote, which used to be a Hoshino hotel. The rate is refundable so if we decide to go somewhere a bit easier (Karuizawa for a few days?), it's not the end of the world.

I also worry a little bit about getting around on the island as it doesn't seem like there are any car rental agencies. I know we can take a bus that comes a few times a day but sadly, we will most likely have to stick with some group tours to see the Iriomote sights.
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Old Aug 15, 2017, 3:10 am
  #10  
 
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Originally Posted by kevincrumbs
it doesn't seem like there are any car rental agencies.
Yamaneko rentacar (in Ohara and Uehara)
https://www.iriomote.com/web/rentacar/

Orix rentacar (in Ohara)
http://car.orix.co.jp/shops/?md=view...wns&city=&ns=0
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