Kyoto - tips for avoiding the crowds?
 

We (myself and two teenage daughters) will be in Kyoto for two days (a weekend, to make matters worse) in early July. I keep reading how crowded the temples and shrines are. Any tips for where we should go to minimize the crowds?

One poster mentioned KOKE Temple and the Imperial Palace, which require reservations -- given the short time we are there, are these reasonable options? I realize that arriving early is one way to avoid at least some of the crowds -- what about evenings?

Go to Kiyomizu-dera at the very earliest you can on one day and on another day, do the same for Golden Temple. I found that our guide said they were the worst but first thing, basically empty. I recall going to kiyomizu at about ten to 6 in the morning. Amazing and great pictures. Also, accept that you won't see everything. I've been to Kyoto 4 times and not seen all that I want.

The Imperial Palace is not a must-see. You see the grounds and the outsides of the buildings, but not the insides.

Saihoji, the moss temple, requires reservations, and you are expected to perform a task, such as copying sutras, before you tour the temple. I would not see it in lieu of other sights.

The suggestion to get up early in the morning is a good one, not only for avoiding crowds but because summers in Kyoto are hot and humid, with very little breeze.

If you go to Kiyomizudera too early, though, I presume none of the quaint stores/cafes will be open along the street that leads up to Kiyomizudera. That's a really fun walk that goes hand in hand with a visit to Kiyomizudera, but it's no fun if everything's closed.

Get to Nijo Castle by 8:00 or 8:30 am. The tour buses start arriving about 9 and the guided groups will start filing through shortly after. If you can stay ahead of them you can see the place in relative peace.

Actually, that is pretty true of most of the major sights. The buses start arriving early to mid-morning. Best to get your most important places done early and just accept the crowding elsewhere later in the days. In July, you will want to go slow or get inside in the afternoon to avoid the heat. You might want to bring sun hats or small, opaque umbrellas to keep the sun off. You can buy very cheap throw-away umbrellas at convenience stores but they are usually clear plastic.

The Imperial Palace is not worth the time in your limited visit plus there are no English language tours on weekends anyway. Best sights for such a compact time might include Kiyomizu-dera, Nijo Castle, Golden Pavilion (Kinkaku-ji), Pottery Slope leading to Kiyomizu-dera (Sannenzaka Street), Heian Jingu Shrine, Ryoan-ji, Nazen-ji. Sanjusangendo Hall would be good in the afternoon as it is always dark and cooler inside. Gion would be nice for an evening stroll. Wear comfortable walking shoes and soft, sturdy socks. Many temples and shrines and the Nijo Castle main building require you to remove shoes before entering.

For only 2 days in July with 3 people, I'd just bite the bullet and move around like many Japanese tourists do, by cab. Spend a bit more to maximize your time and get a little air conditioning between sites.

The real attraction in that area are the surrounding streets with their artisans and small museums and shrines. It's an almost magical World of history come alive. :)

Also, find a map of Kyoto and group your sights so that you aren't needlessly criss-crossing the city. Because of the heat, don't try to do too much in one day and take frequent coffee shop and cold drink breaks. Try kakigohri "shave ice," especially the kind called mizore (mee-zoh-reh), which is a plain sugar syrup, but nowadays, you can also find varieties topped with real fruit and fruit juice.

I agree with wearing socks, even though sandals might SEEM to be the logical choice in hot weather. The humidity means that untoughened skin quickly gets chafed. Wear loose, breathable clothing and a hat.

Early July isn't always scorching hot or awful humidity. Sometimes that kind of weather doesn't start until like the 10th or 15th. Early August? I can guarantee it. :)