AAMillionaire

Hello all,

I’m planning to go to Italy in September/October and will be there for 5 weeks. I’ve been to Italy many times, but never to Puglia or Basilicata. I fly into Milano and will spend a few days in Bologna. From Bologna, I will fly to Bari or Brindisi.
It's Puglia and Basilicata (Matera) where I would like suggestions and input -- the usual: where to go, what to see, places to stay, things to do, where to eat, how to get around, how long to stay at each place, etc.

I like to see historic sites, but I also really enjoy walking around and just exploring a place. I love going to markets to see and buy different products. I generally do not like to move around a lot, but will do that if it makes sense. Beaches are ok, mostly for a walk along the shore but I don’t like just lying around on the beach. And of course, food is important, but I don't need 5 star meals. Would love to hear about regional specialties, like focaccia.

I have a blank canvas right now, but here’s some of what I’m thinking:

-Matera: 4 or 5 days/nights.
-Alberobello: 1 full day, two nights. I know this is very touristy, but I really want to see the trulli.
-Lecce: 4 full days, 5 nights.
-I’m thinking to take a train from Lecce to Gallipoli for the day or overnight, but can stay longer in either place.
-I’ve read about Ostuni, so will add a day or two there.
-Bari for 2 days, 3 nights. I will fly out of Bari to catch my flight back home.

I prefer trains, then busses but can rent a car if necessary. Right now, I’m thinking to fly to Bari, rent a car, then drive directly to Matera. After Matera, drive to and stay in Alberobello, then go to Lecce and return the car. Trains after that, but I'm not sure.

I speak some Italian, but am not fluent.

One last thing: I know that it would be a long drive, but two of my great grandparents were from Rutino and Cicerale. I’ve never been to either of these places and have considered arranging my stay to include driving there. If anyone has knowledge of this area of Campania, I would like to hear about it.

Grazie mille

malmostoso

It is quite far from Puglia, but if you think this is your one chance of going then the whole Cilento area is very beautiful, and in particular I'd recommend the coastal towns of Pisciotta, Marina di Camerota and especially Palinuro.
Maybe you could fly into Naples, rent a car, then use it to drive across to Matera and then Puglia, and ditch the car as soon as you are east, where trains are a bit more widespread and reliable. September/October is well at the end of the season but the coast shouldn't be completely dead just yet.

AAMillionaire

Thanks!

brandie

We took a train from Brindisi to Lecce. It is only about a 35 minute train ride. We really liked Lecce. The one thing I would recommend for Lecce particularly
since you are walkers would be an old school map. My phone map and google maps did not seem to work in Lecce. I think all of the walls must of
messed up the map software/communication to satelites. A map that you print off of the internet and stick in your pocket would be better than nothing. Because of the
walls and curvy roads in the old town you really need working map software on your phone or an old school map.

Lecce is a really easy train connection from Brindisi. We took a taxi into the old town and walked back. It is a long walk from the old town to the train station
but doable if you are walking in the right direction LOL.

bebert

i can not enough recommend to stay and/or eat a couple of days at this masseria. this has become my every 2 yeara pilgrimage trip in the spring. very friendly staff, local food which is the best i have experienced in Italy. a wonderful place to relax. Do not expect super room, this is not the region where you want to stay in a room all day. Just wander around, enjoy the familys cooking and the property . My personal heaven.
https://masseriasalamina.com/

all the region is beautiful

SanDiego1K

Thank you for this suggestion. I am really happy to find it. Do you have a favorite room? or category? How is their food?

bebert

it may look like an advertisement , but honestly i, and my whole family, really enjoy this masseria
i took parents, brother on some occasions and they really like the place too.
it s a whole : the region which is beautiful and still not mass touristy outside summer , the masseria location, close to sea, the extreme quality of food, and important the friendliness of the family
You can find much cheaper (they start becoming famous: advance booking is recommended. just did it for May 2020)
I sampled others masseria but never found the same rural friendliness and food pleasure

the food is home made, with many ingredients from their own garden. the italian way in its best: this is not the receipt technicality ( go to France for this) which counts but the quality of ingredients. and they are top notch: from ham to pasta, oil, tomato,...
very good price for dinner for antipasti, primo, segundo and dessert: 35 € (used to be 30€ 2 years ago)
Just remembered the first time, when we arrived late from BDS at 14H: kitchen was closed but they prepared us some cuts and tomato orechiette more than delicious. Excellent wine from puglia too

you ll find plenty of reviews on line which i found rather accurate (italy is plagued by fake reviews on hotel and restaurants, so i stopped reading them, and pick up now randomly on feeling , last minute the place i go in italy)
I discovered the place after reading one very old review from the NYT from many years ago about Puglia but still valid
https://www.nytimes.com/1993/06/27/t...y-cuisine.html


For the room, honestly : functional but apart the main manor charmless IMHO. if you want old (= more stylish) furniture stay in the entrance building .(manors rooms)
here are the price i got to book for 2020. After it may depend on your budget and if you come as a family
Double room with mezzanine
In the north-west wing of the Masseria, which once housed the stables, there are six mezzanine rooms. The accommodation comprises on the ground floor a living room with single bed and a bathroom with shower and on the mezzanine level a double bed situated in the large barrel vault, with electric roof window. The rooms all have their own private entrance off the inner courtyard of the Masseria, or on the opposite side, in front of the orangery.
All are equipped with air conditioning, television, fridge (empty) and safe. Outside there are tables with chairs.
Our daily B&B rate (2+2 persons)in the double room with mezzanine is: EURuro 190,00

Farm House Apartment

Situated in the north-east wing of the Masseria, where there was once the sheep-fold and the barn, there are now 8 apartments, each comprising a living room with single bed, double bedroom, bathroom and kitchenette. Four of the apartments are on the ground floor beneath the beautiful arches of the portico and four are on the first floor overlooking the ancient olive grove.
Each apartment, 50 mq large, has its own entrance, and its own table and chairs outside and is equipped with heating and air conditioning, television and safe; the kitchen is complete with fridge and crockery.
Daily cleaning of the room (crockery excluded) is included in the B&B service, as well as daily change of towels and weekly change of sheet (twice per week)
Our daily B&B rate (2+2 persons)in farm house room is: EURuro 220,00

Manor's Room:

Originally the nobles' living quarters, 6 rooms have been newly renovated in the main manor house.
They are fitted out with antique furniture and exquisite fittings such as the floors and bathrooms which are ornately decorated with mosaic marble.
The rooms, some with private balcony and sea view, jet bath or large walk-in shower, are all equipped wih heating and air conditioning, LCD television, safe, refrigerator, hair dryer and Wi-fi connection .
The large sitting room, studio with computer and internet access, the main balcony with sea view and the grounds are also at the disposition of the guests
n° 1 Suite superior, comprising of living room with fireplace and the possibility for an extra bed, balcony, double bedroom, bathroom with walk-in shower and jet bath
Our daily B&B rate(2+2 persons) EURuro 290,00

SanDiego1K

The hotel doesn't show availability after Dec 31. Did you write directly to get pricing and make your bookings? I really appreciate your continued help. I've done a lot of poking around at places in the area. I've got my stay in Lecce set and it would be great to get this done as well.

corky

I would take a day or two from Matera and add it to Alberobello. Walking around the trulli is really fun but the town also has many shops and restaurants. I think one day is enough for Ostuni.

bebert

write , and they ll give you all details (likely the same i put)

[email protected]

They answer usually fast exception sundays where it s extended family lunch

bebert

i would add the visit of Castellana Grotte (take the 2h tour) which is really worth the visit
Grotte di Castellana. Puglia -

I would recommend a car as it adds a lot more flexibility, and the driving is really easy. Flat area, not much traffic
you can visit so the protected area.
Just beware of the ZTL in Lecce
4 days in Lecce might be too long. i would push until the deep south to Santa Maria di Leuca, with stop in Gallipoli or Otrante

AAMillionaire

Where are you staying in Lecce?

AAMillionaire

Thanks.
I've downloaded maps of the area so I can use them if I'm offline.
Did you just do a day trip to Lecce? Sounds like you stayed in Brindisi and just went to Lecce for the day. Is Brindisi worth visiting?

SanDiego1K

La Fiermontina. Two friends stayed at separate times this spring. Both highly recommended it.

Here's discussion of luxury hotels in the area: What hotels do you recommend in Puglia, Italy?

brandie

We came into Brindisi by ship (I know not politically correct but we only had 300 people on our ship so not so bad.) We walked from the port to the train station to catch ride train to Lecce.

I think there are better towns in the area but if you are passing through I'd say a 1/4 to a 1/2 day in Brindisi but I would not go out of my
way to see Brindisi. I think if your logistics make sense and you are passing through sure there are things to see. I did not walk through
the old town part but walked through a pedestrian shopping area that had beautiful palm trees lining the thoroughfare, no cars, and
the patina of age but not ancient. To me the pedestrian shopping area had a feel of Savannah Georgia, Charleston South Carolina
Ybor City near Tampa FL and New Orleans. I think it was the patina of the buildings, the shutters on the buildings, the wrought iron balconies and the palm trees that gave me a southern US vibe.

Brindisi has the reputation of being a grubby port town. Probably more realistically it should be described as a working port town.
Funny thing is Savannah, Charleston and Tampa and New Orleans are also port towns that move a lot of freight.

We did not walk through the old town in Brindisi so I cannot comment on that.

We went through a very large produce market in Brindisi that was quite nice.

If anyone takes a train to Lecce there were 3-4 taxis sitting out in front of the train station. I would recommend taxi to accommodations in Lecce
from train. No matter where you stay it will be too far to walk.