Dining in Venice
 

I'm a long time lurker but a new member so I am kind of nervous to post.

My boyfriend and I will be traveling to Venice for several days the first part of July. I have reservations for us at the Ca Pisani Design Hotel in Dosoduro. I've stayed here twice in the past and I like the location (away from the crowds.)

I've been studying a lengthy 2016 thread started by Oliver about Venice restaurants. I can't insert the thread because I don't have enough posts but as soon as I have enough posts I will insert the thread because it has an amazing amount of information.

I know July is a bad time to visit. I told my boyfriend we will be staying away from St Marks Square and Rialto Bridge and exploring elsewhere.

The reason for this thread is I had an extremely bad meal at a tourist restaurant during my last trip to Venice a number of years ago so this trip I want to have reservations in advance.

My questions are:
1. Is Agli Alboretti in Dosoduro still good? I've eaten here a long time ago. It is across the street from my hotel. Would this be better for lunch or dinner?
2. Do you still recommend Caravello? I've never eaten here but I've walked past it a number of times so I know where it is. Would this be better for lunch or dinner?
3. If I have the hotel make dinner reservations for 7:30 then what time would lunch reservations be appropriate?
4. If I contact the hotel 3 weeks out to book reservations will that work?

I'm studying Oliver's 2016 thread and I will probably have some more questions.

Thank you for your help. Brandie.

1. Agli Alboretti is not a bad choice. There are better places, but I think you'll not have a bad meal there. It's in a very touristy location, which could impact things. You might consider going to the chef's fathers restaurant, Vini da Gigio, but that's on the other side of Venice. The other side of Venice always means just about a 25 minute walk, once you subtract the fact that you will spend one hour being lost. You could do a lot worse. And, since my guess is that you are a young couple, do go a slight bit away to Piazza Santa Margherita afterwards, the only place in Venice with any semblance of night life, and good bars. It's pretty much a straight shot and walk from your hotel.
2. Caravello has excellent food, always, but it can be a budget breaker, because of it's location near San Marco Square. You will eat well, but you will certainly pay. When going to places in that price range, I typically go for late lunch. It saves a ton, and if I get hungry at night, it's easy to go to a bar for a cicchetti snack.
3. You really should not plan on lunch and dinner on the same day. You get one meal per day in Italy. The rest is snack time. Remember, there is no breakfast in Italy. You grab a pastry at around 9:30. Then you have lunch around 1PM. Then you won't need dinner, just a snack. Or, reverse it and snack for lunch, and splurge on dinner. Completely forget about the idea that Italians have an antipasto, then a primo piatto of pasta, then a main course, then a desert. There is no myth more false than that. Most Italian housewives work, then come home and cook (men don't generally cook). They don't come home from work and prepare a four course meal of antipasto, then a pasta, then a main course, then a desert. They return home tired from work because things are not easy in Italy, and they say, "tonight we are having soup." That's it. None of this primo, secondo, etc. Or, "tonight we are having risotto." The next night it could be, "Tonight I'm making fish." The next night it could be pasta. The next night, "We are eating out." Don't fall for that one and bust your budget, because that's only something tourists would do. You can always share one dish. In Italy, that is only done when you are having a feast, like a wedding, a childbirth, a graduation, or something like that.
4. Three weeks is plenty of time. In fact, probably too much. They might forget. Double check about 10 days out.

Although the typical Venetian way of dining is to have a coffee and small pastry (a cornetto) in the morning ,many hotels offer a complete buffet breakfast in their rate. I typically stay in a 4 star hotel which offers juice, coffee, tea, cappuccino, pastries, fruit, eggs, sausages, cold meat and cheese from 7-10 AM. So, if one elects to eat a generous breakfast, then it is surely possible to skip lunch, have some ciccietti in the afternoon and opt for a nice dinner,.

Ca Pisani Concierge will surely be able to book the most sought-after tables in Venice. Those would include: Antiche Carampane, A Covo, Ala Testiere. Those three are outstanding and reservations are essential. I recommend lunch at Antiche Carampane as the location is a bit difficult to find. Better to navigate the directions in the day time. Well worth one or more visits.
Welcome to Flyertalk and the Italy Forum, brandie. Look forward to hearing your impressions and your questions.

Brandie, here is the thread you were referencing: https://www.flyertalk.com/forum/ital...ts-please.html

Perche and Obscure 2,

Thank you both for the kind warm welcome.

I've decided against Caravello for a number of reasons. It is in the "crowded section". The menu is meat centric and pricey.. I've decided against Agli Alboretti as it doesn't force me to see other parts of Venice but I'm going to keep it on the emergency backup plan.

Thanks for your suggestions about 1 nice meal a day. I really like that idea. I'm thinking make the main meal of the day lunch and that will help us to get a break from the heat and give us a chance to sit down and rest in the middle of the day.

Perche, thanks for the reminder about not having to order from every restaurant category.

After reviewing all of the restaurants in Oliver's thread I'm leaning heavily towards alle Testiere for lunch. Da Firore seems significantly pricier. I was torn between Antiche Carampane and Alle Testiere but I am celiac (intolleranza al glutine) and Alle Testiere seemed to have a lot of choices that are naturally gluten free (priva di glutine) and I would not have to have the chef modify dishes. I emailed Alle Testiere to ask if the dinner menu was also available at lunch and they emailed back that they use the same menu for both lunch and dinner which should give me a lot of options when ordering.

Two things of note: The 15 second fish video clip on the Antiche Carampene website is very interesting. Also Alle Testiere does not have any dinner reservations available until after April 12.

My plan is to reserve Alle Testiere for lunch on Saturday. I've noticed a lot of the restaurants are closed on Sundays. I'm going to go back through Oliver's thread and review the restaurants that are open on Sundays. I also need to drill down on 2 other links on the thread that may give me additional options--Perche's list of the guild restaurants and Perche's article of the up and coming restaurants.

I have a couple of more questions:

1. John Dory fish. I've never heard of it. It must be a European fish. Is it a mild white fish like cod?
2. I remember the white wine of the Veneto region, the red wine of the Veneto region and the Prosecco of the Veneto region all being good and affordable. If I order fish with my lunch would white wine or Prosecco typically be served with the meal? Or either?
3. I had a good seafood risotto on a prior visit to Vicenza. I saw a mushroom risotto on the Caravello menu. Am I likely to come across a seafood risotto being offered at restaurants in Venice or is it more of a winter time dish?
4. Is the cicchetti typically open face little sandwiches? Am I likely to come across shrimp or other fish without the bread bottom? Or should I plan on picking up fruit and nuts etc for my evening snack?

Obscure, thank you for reposting Oliver's thread. That thread has a wealth of information on it.

Again, thank you both for the warm welcome to Flyertalk.

Not a restaurant recommendation, but my wife and I went to the neighboring bars of Al Timon and Birreria Zanon, in Cannaregio and had a very enjoyable night. There is outside seating at tables, on boats, along the bridge. Its a great place to go get a drink, and I from my experience Italian craft beer has improved significantly since 2015 when we visited Venice. Should be enjoyable on a warm summer night! The Rialto morning market is a worthwhile visit, as long as you're early. We went around 7 am, and there were very few people out and about, but the stalls were wonderful.

Northeastern Italy has many different white wines and the likelihood is that you will see grapes like Gewurztraminer/Traminer, Malvasia, Sauvignon [blanc], Riesling, Chardonnay and many others. These wines can be quite affordable though there are always a few producers who manage to get top prices. In my experience in Italy sparkling wines like are often served more as aperitivo wines than with meals, though I have ordered sparkling wines with food on occasion.

BTW: with grilled fish also red wine is possible. Even more if the red wine is a little bit cooled.

Alle Testiere is a fine choice for lunch. Their seafood is outstanding.
1. John Dory is also known as St. Pierre, I think it is more similar to sole than cod. It is a mild tasting white fish and not as flaky as cod. I am not crazy about cod but love John Dory
2. Just fine to drink Prosecco throughout your meal. You can start with an aperitif and continue with Prosecco.
3. Seafood risotto is a very typical Venetian dish likely to be found in most quality restaurants. It is available year round.
4.Ciccetti are typically NOT little sandwiches. Tramzzino are the half sandwiches without crusts. Ciccetti can include meatballs, sardines, eggplant, hard boiled eggs, olives, shrimp and a variety of little bites. Both tramezzino and Ciccetti can often be found at the same bars. Bread should not be a concern if you want a snack.

I must put in a word for Local, a restaurant in Arsenale. We've been there twice, the last time in March this year. Outstanding, and great wines. They make a good contrast to Alle Testiere, which is a more traditional restaurant. Local is modern, next to a canal, delicious Venetian food and very imaginative. Check out the web site for details. The staff are very attentive and kind. Jacopo, the wine steward is very informative, and will help you find that special bottle.

Alle Testiere is "traditional" in the sense that the focus is on seafood and I do not believe they serve meat. The chef/owner is very talented and creative. As well, the wines are carefully selected.
Here is the a la carte menu for Local: Menu Local Venice Seafood restaurant Vegetarian restaurant
Here is an example of a menu from Alle Testiere: http://www.osterialletestiere.it/wp-...ngstandard.pdf
mmack, thank you for the recommendation of Local. I look forward to going there in November.

Here are my recommendations based on my time in Venice last year. I'll never eat at Olive Garden or Papa John's ever again.

Ristorante San Stefano - gnocchi was great

[QUOTE=obscure2k;29614804]Alle Testiere is "traditional" in the sense that the focus is on seafood and I do not believe they serve meat. The chef/owner is very talented and creative. As well, the wines are carefully selected.
I meant that Testiere is small, somewhat close quarters and "old italian country" in feel. We've been there seven times! We love it.

Really great information - thanks Brandie for starting and all for adding recommendations. Will be in Venice in June with family including 9yo granddaughter. Staying at San Clemente (our favorite)so our budget is already busted! Any suggestions on dining with a child who is not a really picky eater? Have used Oliver's thread before and agree that it is packed with great info. Thanks to all