A week on the Amalfi coast in late June - early July
#16
Join Date: Mar 2011
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Sorrento is great if you are using it as a base for daily side trips, because of its location. You can go to Pompeii, Capri, Amalfi Coast, Naples, Procida, Ercolano, etc. For your case though, no beach. If you get down the cliff to the beach, which is possible, there are only private beach clubs, and one very tiny breach with wall to wall beach umbrellas. And it's not very nice, because Sorrento exists for cruise ships. So that is what you would be looking at, a harbor full of ships. The water is not deep enough for the cruise ships to land at a dock, so there is a constant flow of medium size boats taking the day-trippers from the boats and shutting them to the shore where the beach is. Then about 30,000 of them crush the town of Sorrento looking for gelato and pizza. It is beautiful, but just not what I'd be looking for, unless it was "free," as in points, and I was only going there to day trips, and be gone when it is packed with tourists looking for souvenirs.
One thing that might or might not be important to you is, you originally asked about the Amalfi Coast. Sorrento is not part of the Amalfi Coast, although most people think it is. Sorrento is part of the metropolitan city of Naples, in the Province of Naples, on the Gulf of Naples. From this part of the Province of Naples you can make day trips to all of the towns on the Amalfi Coast which are all located in the Province of Salerno, on the Gulf of Salerno. Minor point, but staying in Sorrento is not staying on the Amalfi Coast. It is staying in the Province of Naples, where you can make day trips to the Amalfi Coast.
One thing that might or might not be important to you is, you originally asked about the Amalfi Coast. Sorrento is not part of the Amalfi Coast, although most people think it is. Sorrento is part of the metropolitan city of Naples, in the Province of Naples, on the Gulf of Naples. From this part of the Province of Naples you can make day trips to all of the towns on the Amalfi Coast which are all located in the Province of Salerno, on the Gulf of Salerno. Minor point, but staying in Sorrento is not staying on the Amalfi Coast. It is staying in the Province of Naples, where you can make day trips to the Amalfi Coast.
Last edited by Perche; Jan 31, 2018 at 11:20 am
#17
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Join Date: Jun 2013
Posts: 17,393
Sorrento is great if you are using it as a base for daily side trips, because of its location. You can go to Pompeii, Capri, Positano, Naples, Procida, Ercolano, etc. For your case though, no beach. If you get down the cliff to the beach, which is possible, there are only private beach clubs, and one very tiny wall to wall beach packed with umbrellas. And it's not very nice, because Sorrento exists for cruise ships. So that is what you would be looking at, a harbor full of ships. The water is not deep enough for the cruise ships to land at a dock, so there is a constant flow of smaller boats disembarking the day-trippers from the boats and shutting them to the shore where the beach is. Then about 30,000 of them crush the town of Sorrento looking for gelato and pizza. It is beautiful, but just not what I'd be looking for, unless it was "free," as in points, and I was just going to day trips from there, and stay out when it is packed with tourists looking for souvenirs.
One thing that might or might not be important is, you asked about the Amalfi Coast originally. Sorrento is not part of the Amalfi Coast, although most people think it is. Sorrento is part of the metropolitan city of Naples, in the Province of Naples, on the Gulf of Naples. From Sorrento you can make day trips to all of the towns on the Amalfi Coast which are in the Province of Salerno, on the Gulf of Salerno. Minor point, but staying in Sorrento is not staying on the Amalfi Coast. It is staying in the Province of Naples, where you can make day trips to the Amalfi Coast..
One thing that might or might not be important is, you asked about the Amalfi Coast originally. Sorrento is not part of the Amalfi Coast, although most people think it is. Sorrento is part of the metropolitan city of Naples, in the Province of Naples, on the Gulf of Naples. From Sorrento you can make day trips to all of the towns on the Amalfi Coast which are in the Province of Salerno, on the Gulf of Salerno. Minor point, but staying in Sorrento is not staying on the Amalfi Coast. It is staying in the Province of Naples, where you can make day trips to the Amalfi Coast..
Also those kids loved that beach because it's sheltered. It's below the cliff, but there's a lift through the cliff, which happened to come up right across the Piazza from our rental's front door. The town is small enough and safe enough that within two days these children were comfortable enough to head out on their own, unlike Rome where they were always worried about getting lost. Finally, beach clubs are a southern Italian "thing," don't you think? They're everywhere. In Sorrento, the one the kids used, charged 5 Euro for the towel, lounger, umbrella, and water bottle. Snagged them a couple of masks and snorkels and they spent hours out by the sea walls.
I'm not trying convince the OP that Sorrento is his ideal destination, but just to counterbalance a characterization (imo, overstated) as some overcrowded touristic hellhole that the town really doesn't deserve. (Otoh, maybe dissuading people from visiting a place I frequent is a service. )
#18
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,213
Sorrento is great if you are using it as a base for daily side trips, because of its location. You can go to Pompeii, Capri, Amalfi Coast, Naples, Procida, Ercolano, etc. For your case though, no beach. If you get down the cliff to the beach, which is possible, there are only private beach clubs, and one very tiny breach with wall to wall beach umbrellas. And it's not very nice, because Sorrento exists for cruise ships. So that is what you would be looking at, a harbor full of ships. The water is not deep enough for the cruise ships to land at a dock, so there is a constant flow of medium size boats taking the day-trippers from the boats and shutting them to the shore where the beach is. Then about 30,000 of them crush the town of Sorrento looking for gelato and pizza. It is beautiful, but just not what I'd be looking for, unless it was "free," as in points, and I was only going there to day trips, and be gone when it is packed with tourists looking for souvenirs.
One thing that might or might not be important to you is, you originally asked about the Amalfi Coast. Sorrento is not part of the Amalfi Coast, although most people think it is. Sorrento is part of the metropolitan city of Naples, in the Province of Naples, on the Gulf of Naples. From this part of the Province of Naples you can make day trips to all of the towns on the Amalfi Coast which are all located in the Province of Salerno, on the Gulf of Salerno. Minor point, but staying in Sorrento is not staying on the Amalfi Coast. It is staying in the Province of Naples, where you can make day trips to the Amalfi Coast.
One thing that might or might not be important to you is, you originally asked about the Amalfi Coast. Sorrento is not part of the Amalfi Coast, although most people think it is. Sorrento is part of the metropolitan city of Naples, in the Province of Naples, on the Gulf of Naples. From this part of the Province of Naples you can make day trips to all of the towns on the Amalfi Coast which are all located in the Province of Salerno, on the Gulf of Salerno. Minor point, but staying in Sorrento is not staying on the Amalfi Coast. It is staying in the Province of Naples, where you can make day trips to the Amalfi Coast.
#19
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
It is interesting that so many people knock Naples, but like Sorrento, when Sorrento is part of Bella Napoli.
#20
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: PHL / NYC / PSA-BLQ
Programs: AA PPRO, Marriott/Hilton Gold, AMX-Plat, Global Entry
Posts: 3,107
Relative to Sorrento, the right hotel with beach can be a quite nice getaway. I spent a long weekend with a girlfriend at the Parco dei Principi in 1981 and we had a great stay. Elevator down to private beach and we also hired a boat for a day. It picked us up at the hotel, we sailed out to Capri, circled the island and stopped at White & Blue Grotto dropped us off at the harbor so we could explore for half a day and then took us back to the hotel. Packed snacks and drinks for us. Great day.
Now that's close to 40 years ago and I have no idea of the condition of the hotel these days. Having driven through Sorrento and gone to Capri more recently I can certainly say that both are much more crowded than before and if one heads anywhere in that direction (Amalfi Coast included) one better be prepared for crowds and traffic.
Now that's close to 40 years ago and I have no idea of the condition of the hotel these days. Having driven through Sorrento and gone to Capri more recently I can certainly say that both are much more crowded than before and if one heads anywhere in that direction (Amalfi Coast included) one better be prepared for crowds and traffic.
#21
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
Relative to Sorrento, the right hotel with beach can be a quite nice getaway. I spent a long weekend with a girlfriend at the Parco dei Principi in 1981 and we had a great stay. Elevator down to private beach and we also hired a boat for a day. It picked us up at the hotel, we sailed out to Capri, circled the island and stopped at White & Blue Grotto dropped us off at the harbor so we could explore for half a day and then took us back to the hotel. Packed snacks and drinks for us. Great day.
Now that's close to 40 years ago and I have no idea of the condition of the hotel these days. Having driven through Sorrento and gone to Capri more recently I can certainly say that both are much more crowded than before and if one heads anywhere in that direction (Amalfi Coast included) one better be prepared for crowds and traffic.
Now that's close to 40 years ago and I have no idea of the condition of the hotel these days. Having driven through Sorrento and gone to Capri more recently I can certainly say that both are much more crowded than before and if one heads anywhere in that direction (Amalfi Coast included) one better be prepared for crowds and traffic.
If the OP really wants the Amalfi Coast, staying away from the super hot spots, small towns like Minori, which has a sandy beach, or Cetara could work. S/he might find a place there. Both are cities on the Amalfi Coast that are pretty much untouched with tourism, and s/he might find good prices there, an be able to take the local bus to anywhere.
#22
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,213
So, we've changed our geographical preferences. Recognizing that the first half of August is one of the worst times to go to Italy, we are a bit pressed for choice, so would like to make the most of it. So now we are looking for the best available and least crowded option within, let's say, a five-hour drive from Milan. We've been to Recco (Liguria) before - nothing super special, but it was serviceable. Any other ideas? The other side of the country works, as well. Le Marche was mentioned in this thread - any more detail? I haven't found a definitive location to focus on during my own research, so personal experiences would be good here...
#23
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
Programs: AA EXP >4 MM, Lifetime Plat
Posts: 2,881
So, we've changed our geographical preferences. Recognizing that the first half of August is one of the worst times to go to Italy, we are a bit pressed for choice, so would like to make the most of it. So now we are looking for the best available and least crowded option within, let's say, a five-hour drive from Milan. We've been to Recco (Liguria) before - nothing super special, but it was serviceable. Any other ideas? The other side of the country works, as well. Le Marche was mentioned in this thread - any more detail? I haven't found a definitive location to focus on during my own research, so personal experiences would be good here...
Where do you want to go, and what are you looking to do? You expressed a desire for the Amalfi Coast, the most touristy area, and now Le Marche the least touristy area. Le Marche is on the internet, so you can do some research, and then ask specific questions about it. It has isolated beaches, mountains, hikes, is something like Abruzzo. It's the part of Italy that people haven't discovered yet, but will.
Last edited by Perche; Feb 22, 2018 at 5:48 am
#24
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,213
I have no idea why you would go to Recco, and place that was bombed to smithereens in WW II, and consists of 1950's apartment buildings.
Where do you want to go, and what are you looking to do? You expressed a desire for the Amalfi Coast, the most touristy area, and now Le Marche the least touristy area. Le Marche is on the internet, so you can do some research, and then ask specific questions about it. It has isolated beaches, mountains, hikes, is something like Abruzzo. It's the part of Italy that people haven't discovered yet, but will.
#25
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SFO, VCE
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Posts: 2,881
I did re-state it: looking for a decent beach with in a four-five hour drive of Milan. The quieter the better, considering the time of the year.
I'm not sure there's a point in questioning a decision made in 2012. We went there and liked it. Easy access to Genoa for exploring the city and Cinque Terre and not awfully expensive. But there's a lot of Italy that we still haven't seen, so no interest in going back.
And that's exactly why I said that our criteria have changed. Someone in this thread tipped me on to Le Marche and I wanted to know more. More specifically, if there's a town in Le Marche that someone has been to which has hotels within walking distance of it, because, from what I've been able to tell so far, lots of beaches there require driving to them.
I'm not sure there's a point in questioning a decision made in 2012. We went there and liked it. Easy access to Genoa for exploring the city and Cinque Terre and not awfully expensive. But there's a lot of Italy that we still haven't seen, so no interest in going back.
And that's exactly why I said that our criteria have changed. Someone in this thread tipped me on to Le Marche and I wanted to know more. More specifically, if there's a town in Le Marche that someone has been to which has hotels within walking distance of it, because, from what I've been able to tell so far, lots of beaches there require driving to them.
#26
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,213
I don’t know what to say. Le Marche, like Piemonte, are both better than Tuscany. Prettier, and cheaper for sure. They have not yet been discovered, and the only crowds in August will be Italians going to the beach. Can you drive it in five hours from Milan? I’d say it’s a five hour drive. As to which hotel, since the beach is over 100 miles long, you have to narrow it down to where you want to go.
And that's what the point of asking was: I don't know where I want to go because I don't know anything about that area of the country. I'm not asking for people to pick a hotel for me, but a name of a town (or three) that has a decent bunch of hotels from which the beach may be accessible (vs. a great beach to which you need to first drive, then climb stairs for half an hour) would be nice.
And what do Piemonte and Tuscany have to do with anything? I don't think we've ever discussed them here...
And what do Piemonte and Tuscany have to do with anything? I don't think we've ever discussed them here...
#27
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: PHL / NYC / PSA-BLQ
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I'd offer an opinion but my personal taste would be to do an AirBnb inland with short drive to beach areas as I might hit the beach for a day or two but not every day. I'm more into the seafood than the sand.
This is a decent overview with links to some of the beach areas. Marche Voyager - Beach Guide
Maybe you can review and then, if you have questions, post more detailed questions.
This is a decent overview with links to some of the beach areas. Marche Voyager - Beach Guide
Maybe you can review and then, if you have questions, post more detailed questions.
#28
Original Poster
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 1,213
I'd offer an opinion but my personal taste would be to do an AirBnb inland with short drive to beach areas as I might hit the beach for a day or two but not every day. I'm more into the seafood than the sand.
This is a decent overview with links to some of the beach areas. Marche Voyager - Beach Guide
Maybe you can review and then, if you have questions, post more detailed questions.
This is a decent overview with links to some of the beach areas. Marche Voyager - Beach Guide
Maybe you can review and then, if you have questions, post more detailed questions.
#30
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: PHL / NYC / PSA-BLQ
Programs: AA PPRO, Marriott/Hilton Gold, AMX-Plat, Global Entry
Posts: 3,107
Never been - had a great lunch at Alla Lanterna in Fano - which is one town down the coast. I've spent more time between Ancona and Ascoli Piceno. Pesaro is the second most populous city in March (Ancona is a little larger). Your original post says you want quieter and, if so, I'd avoid the bigger cities.
I know you've stated that you'd rather a hotel and to keep cost/night < €150 -points won't do you any good in Le Marche - I can't think of a single chain hotel in the region. I'd seriously recommend you at least look at AirBnb's and be willing to drive at least a little to get to a beach. There's some stellar options in Marche. I stayed in a medieval hilltop town last summer and had a remodeled, two bedroom apartment, built into the side of the wall of the town with a gorgeous terrace for €60 a night. The hosts were really great people (we made friends and email regularly now). It's not seaside but probably a 30 minute drive to the beach. You can find a lot via AirBnb and VRBO (which is a little more prevalent in Italy although I personally prefer Airbnb as it's much easier to zero in on a good choice with them).
I know you've stated that you'd rather a hotel and to keep cost/night < €150 -points won't do you any good in Le Marche - I can't think of a single chain hotel in the region. I'd seriously recommend you at least look at AirBnb's and be willing to drive at least a little to get to a beach. There's some stellar options in Marche. I stayed in a medieval hilltop town last summer and had a remodeled, two bedroom apartment, built into the side of the wall of the town with a gorgeous terrace for €60 a night. The hosts were really great people (we made friends and email regularly now). It's not seaside but probably a 30 minute drive to the beach. You can find a lot via AirBnb and VRBO (which is a little more prevalent in Italy although I personally prefer Airbnb as it's much easier to zero in on a good choice with them).