Looking for advice on several practical issues
 

I'm planning a couple of weeks in Italy in September, with stays in three locations: Genoa, Firenze, and Roma. We'll use trains between the three. This will be our first visit to Italy since 1988, and I would appreciate any advice from FTers on the following practical issues:

1) Does buying rail tickets by credit card from either a machine or ticket office in Italy require a PIN? [Using my "no foreign exchange fee" Chase-issued UA MP card treats PIN transactions as cash withdrawals, and applies a significant surcharge.] I found in Barcelona last year that buying transit cards with a credit card could not be done without a PIN.

2) In Firenze, I'd like to rent an automatic transmission car for two or three days, presumably from a central location, to make some day trips around Tuscany. Any words of wisdom on the practicalities of that (e.g., choice of rental company to maximize the probability that they will actually have the type of vehicle reserved, overnight parking considerations, etc.)? I have premium status with both Avis and Hertz (I've generally found the latter to be the most reliable around the world, except in the UK), but am open to other possibilities.

3) What's been the general experience regarding the security of luggage taken on board intercity trains, when too large to fit in the overhead racks? I gather there is some between-seat provision in some rail cars (but I've no idea about capacity); otherwise, it's apparently end-of-car open racks a la Amtrak. I've seen some online references to the absurdity of Americans looking to chain down their bags on these racks; and other admonitions to never let your luggage out of your sight, particularly in and around Rome's Termini station. What's the experience and the prudent middle ground here?

4) When we leave on a 06:45 departure from FCO Terminal 3, is there any advice about obtaining VAT rebate certification (should we wish to do so) before checking in our bags at around 05:00? Is the certification office open, and usable without a long line?

I'd be grateful for FTers' insights on any of the above questions. These are the sorts of things that the guidebooks don't mention, and are difficult to ascertain through online research.

#1 donno. bedemaria can answer

#1a i do not think chase has a ua card with pin

#1b get a no ex fee atm card. etrade, schwab, tdamerican for part list and use euro.

#2hertz has a very central location. we use autoeurope, then choose hertz. do not get gold points. hertz gold or whatever it is gets you to the front of the line. forget parking in the old part of florence. to get an automatic, you will have to rent something huge.

#3 i have done a lot of train in italy. a std rollaboard fits in the overhead. the storage has been at one end of the car. what's so terrible about using a bike lock? we use one. not a chain, just a thing that could pass for a ski lock do not leave luggage out of your sight at rome termini. or paris whatever, or penn central, or union station(dc) or DCA for that matter. all are also pick pocket paradise.

#4. most of the stuff we bought did not come with a vat rebate(or charge) so don't know.

To add to Slawecki's comments. Read up about ZTL (Zona Traffico Limitata) as they are new relative to your last visit. Essentially, many Italian cities have these zones and restrict traffic in them with varying criteria. In Firenze, you can rent and leave the zone but be careful about your route. If you cross back into it, your license plate will be captured and you'll get an expensive ticket via mail and an administrative charge from the rental company. You can re-enter to go to your hotel but they will need to call in your plate #. Siena has a ZTL too which restricts where you can go.

When booking a rental, look closely at the deductibles. Personally, I go with Auto Europe as their deductibles are lower than Hertz and the buy down to a zero $ deductible is a lot cheaper that Hertz's Super Cover and their liability coverage is great. I have a gazillion Hertz points but the insurance cost is so high in Italy that I don't bother with them. Also Amex doesn't provide secondary coverage in Italy although some Visa do. I'm picking up a 2 week AE rental @MXP in a few weeks with $0 CDW & theft for $860 (manual and size for 2 adults).

At the self-service ticket machine, you need to have a card with a PIN. You can use the CC at (most) windows - but the lines can often be lengthy.

Automatic transmission will be much more expensive and harder to find.

Depends on the route. Bags do indeed get stolen from the compartments. Does it happen every train, no, but it does happen. If you have rollaboard/carry on size bags, they'll fit over your seat, if not, you'll have to leave them at the the end of compartment. If you don't want to use a lock, you could simply walk down there and stand near the bags at stops.

The VAT office @ FCO won't be open that early. However, a number of the refund companies now have offices in the city and allow you to process the refund before the airport and then you have to mail it after you leave the country. In the event they don't receive the receipts from out of country w/in a certain period (60 days I think?) then they charge your credit card for the refunded amount. If you purchase VAT refund items, look at the envelope they give you w/the receipt and check for addresses in town.

Relative to buying train tickets, I believe I've seen reports that some have had success with a US card that was Chip 'n Signature with either no PIN or 0000. In any event, seems worthwhile to get/have a card with Chip (&PIN if you can get one of the few) and no fx fee.

A rental car is a liability in Firenze. Consider arranging a car-free stay there and then making another Tuscan town (Luca, Greve,Panzano etc.) your base for the day trips

A couple of points from my experience, although these are hardly new insights:

1. Even if you buy the ticket at the machine just before getting on the train, you need to get it validated/stamped. I knew something about this but not how seriously they take it. On my second train trip, the conductor came through and told me that my ticket was not valid and I needed to pay something absurd like 40 or 50 euros (for an airport to town ticket that cost maybe 8 euros). I showed him that I only had 25 euros in my wallet. He took 15 or 20 euros. The other trick is to find out where this validation machine is....
2. I rented a car in Italy. When I returned the car in Switzerland, they said that there was damage although I was not involved in any accident; I suppose it was pre existing damage which I didn't see, especially in a very dark garage where I picked up the car. I had gotten some extra insurance from Hertz so I thought that would cover me. Otherwise, I have coverage from my credit card, and from my regular US auto insurance (I might had something else as well, but can't recall offhand). It turns out that the insurance from Hertz didn't cover the first 2000 euros of collision and all other insurance coverages (such as credit card and US auto insurance) don't cover rentals in Italy (and a few other countries in the world).

Thanks for the contributions on this thread . . . there are several good thoughts with which I'll follow up.
OP

Lighter bags make sense
 

If at all possible, travelers on European trains should give extra thought to travelling light, with smaller bags. It simply makes sense. Lifting multiple, heavy bags just isn't any fun. And, smaller bags can more easily find room for storage in and around your seat....largely avoiding the theft problem.

Take fewer items, feel better, and use the laundry service in the hotel.

quite the opposite for packing. we take a large, an extra large and a humungous bag set that nest when empty. put them under the bed.

outside laundry service is frequently terrible. the detergent used is strong enough to take the nails off your fingers, and does not get rinsed well.

also, sleep in full night clothes, including socks, and carry a pillow case.

Large suitcases are much more difficult on the train. I travel comfortably to Europe for up to 3 weeks w/just a carry on, I've never had problems w/laundry service and/or insects.

Practical issues
 

A couple of years ago I was on a train from Florence to Rome. A woman with a HUGE suitcase that she obviously couldn't handle entered, and asked if I could hoist it into the storage bin for her. I had a rotator cuff repair on my shoulder six months before. Out of a sense of chivalry I didn't say no, and unsuccessfully attempted to lift it, and re-injured my shoulder. I would suggest as a rule that you don't bring luggage that you can't handle (or hire someone to handle it).

I've stayed in Italy for as long as three months with just a carry on. In fact, I've been here for two months now, and came with just a carry on. I bring some old things that I'm willing to discard, and buy a few new things now and then. When I get into the shower the underwear goes into the sink with some detergent. When I get out of the shower the underwear is rinsed and ready to be hung to dry in the shower. I do the same thing with most clothing, and just send a few things out, like dress clothing.

I haven't checked a bag since a trip to Lago di Como was ruined by lost luggage about ten years ago. In my opinion it is worth it to just make do, and not worry about luggage. Large portions of Italy have a problem with mosquitos, but I've never had an insect problem in a hotel or residence.

i have never seen a "huge" overhead on an italian train. i have the porter(less than 10 euro) drop my luggage off on the end of the compartment, and chain it either to the wall, or to each other. the porter is a really good deal when the train station requires down and up stairs(like bcn)

i have traveled light on appropriate circumstances. crossed the atlantic (25 days) in an ocean race with wet suit and fowl weather gear. when in europe, going to better places, i prefer attire better than foul weather gear.

practical things
 

It was a bin, but not an overhead bin. It was on the side of the train.

In my carry on I bring a dark navy blue blazer, charcoal and blue dress pants, a white and a blue dress shirt, two ties, and a pair of dress shoes. I squeeze in a pair of jeans, and as many tee's and polos as I can. I buy a few things like a few extra shirts if I'm here on an extended stay. I can dress the jacket up or down, wear with a tie to work, over a polo to a nice restaurant, or just wear jeans and a T.

No check-in, no waiting, no lost luggage, no porting big things around works for me, but I agree it's not for everyone.