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Old Jul 15, 2010, 5:55 am
  #1  
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Three intensive weeks in India – itinerary review appreciated

Hey there,

We’re a pretty active couple in our late twenties / early thirties and we’re taking ~3 weeks off every year to “touch & feel” a new country. We’ve been to several Asian countries already (last Dec example: http://www.flyertalk.com/forum/japan...itinerary.html, http://kowalik.smugmug.com/Travel/Ja...78275883_sNwPv), this time we’re planning to hit India as it nicely coincides with my friend’s wedding. I have scanned through this forum already (homework) and put together following itinerary:

Let me share with you my initial itinerary and some general notes – all days in December
6 – early (1AM?) arrival to New Delhi with Austrian (non refundable tickets purchased, can’t change that one)
6-7 – Agra, arrival by train, Taj Mahal
7-9 – Jaipur, road transportation, sightseeing
9-11 – Udaipur, arrival by train, sightseeting
11-14 – Mumbai, arrival by plane, sightseeing
14-16 – Goa, train, sightseeing & relaxation,
16-19 – Kumarakom, wedding celebration
19-22 – Bangalore, air transportation, sightseeing & 1-2 days of work
22-27 – New Delhi, air transportation, sightseeing & day trips
27 – departure to Europe

Some general notes:
- I’ve been using wikitravel.com and http://www.fascinatingvacations.com/...-of-india.html for high-level time planning.
- We are 120% crazy on Indian food available in Europe, US or Japan – we would love to explore heavily this dimension.
- I will be planning to stay in ~100USD a night hotels, maybe except Agra where it’s impossible.
- We're pretty much OK to increase some costs in order to lower some risks / incoveniances - just let me know where is it worth?

Would be really great if you can have a look and:
- Comment your general opinion about that itinerary (cities, durations, transport means)
- Advise on must dos and must sees in those (or other?) cities
- GOA: what would be the best place (city?) to go to be a little bit off the beaten track but still experience a lot?
- Road transportation (Agra->Jaipur) – how should I go about that?
- Local guides – where would it make sense the most? Do you happen to have some good ones to propose?
- Restaurants – just shout if you have your favorite ones?

All your comments / ideas will be welcome and I’ll make sure they are incorporated into the next review (in a month time)?

Thanks in advance for your help, give me a shout if you have any questions about Eastern Europe
Best!
mf
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Old Jul 15, 2010, 12:46 pm
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I think you have maybe one day too much in Mumbai and one day too few in Goa. You can "sightsee" everything worth seeing in Mumbai in a single day with some to spare. Of course, if you're into food then you can spend the entire trip in Mumbai and never be bored!

Otherwise, its an ambitious but very doable itinerary. Sounds like a great trip.
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Old Jul 15, 2010, 1:25 pm
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I think it looks quite a tiring itinery. I would give yourself a bit longer in Goa and use it for relaxation. You could time off of New Delhi or Mumbai. One thing I would really suggest- keep Agra till the end. Have your first day in Delhi and then move on to Jaipur. The Taj is a real highlight and it would be a pity if you see it while you are still jetlagged. Arrange the visit either sunrise or sunset. Remember also that Agra is not just the Taj so give yourselves plenty time- even if you have the entire day and set off back to Delhi ( or wherever) next morning.
I can highly recommend http://www.namasteindiatours.com/ for part of your trip. They work round what you want. They suggest hotels but will price any that you have found that you want. We had a brilliant driver and guide. We had a direct number to the company, who actually made a point of phoning us several times during the tour to make sure everything was fine. I just loved our tour!
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Old Jul 16, 2010, 4:40 am
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If you want to do it yourself -

1. Road transport - Hertz, Avis etc all have branches in India and they provide cars with drivers

2. Booking tickets online - travelocity.co.in, cleartrip.com, expedia.co.in etc.

3. Yes, cut down the time in bombay and spend it in goa or in kumarakom - maybe rent a houseboat in kumarakom for the time you're spending there. You could spend a couple of days in Goa and the rest in Kumarakom (that's a bit more expensive though)

4.
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Old Jul 16, 2010, 1:55 pm
  #5  
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Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
6-7 – Agra, arrival by train, Taj Mahal
my advice would be to drive instead of taking the train....this way you would have a driver & car with you in agra & won't need to find one there....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
7-9 – Jaipur, road transportation, sightseeing
2 days in jaipur are good enough....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
9-11 – Udaipur, arrival by train, sightseeting
if you have the budget then stay at the lake palace....one of my favorite hotels in the world....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
11-14 – Mumbai, arrival by plane, sightseeing
3 days in mumbai is too much....i would reduce this by a day....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
14-16 – Goa, train, sightseeing & relaxation,
i have mixed feelings on goa....some peolpe think 2 days is enough while others think 2 weeks are too little....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
16-19 – Kumarakom, wedding celebration
enjoy the wedding....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
19-22 – Bangalore, air transportation, sightseeing & 1-2 days of work
i have never been a fan of bangalore....i am there for work pretty often but there is nothing really to see in the city....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
22-27 – New Delhi, air transportation, sightseeing & day trips
5 days is too much for delhi....i don't think you need more than 2 days here....for side trips, there is not too much to see since you have already planned for agra & jaipur early in your trip....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
- I’ve been using wikitravel.com and http://www.fascinatingvacations.com/...-of-india.html for high-level time planning.
wikitravel is pretty ok....take a look at 'lonely planet'....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
- We are 120% crazy on Indian food available in Europe, US or Japan – we would love to explore heavily this dimension.
indian food is very different here as compared to what you get anywhere else in the world....it is going to be very spicy....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
- I will be planning to stay in ~100USD a night hotels, maybe except Agra where it’s impossible.
actually agra will be the easiest to find hotels for under $100....i always stay at the itc mughal when in agra....its an amazing property that you can get for around $100 a night....in jaipur you can take a look at the 3 spg properties....all available for under $100....in delhi there is a hotel called 'shervani' where i normally put people up when they are here....i think they have 2 properties in delhi now....you should get that for under $100....in mumbai you will be able to find many small hotels within your budget....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
- We're pretty much OK to increase some costs in order to lower some risks / incoveniances - just let me know where is it worth?
if you are looking for local hotels then i can get you a number for a very good travel agent & they should be able to help you out with this....pm me if you are interested....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
- Advise on must dos and must sees in those (or other?) cities
make sure you see the fatehpur sikhri when in agra....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
- GOA: what would be the best place (city?) to go to be a little bit off the beaten track but still experience a lot?
like i said before....i am not a big fan of goa & only go there for work 3-4 times a year....i always stay at the leela....its an amazing property but a little away from all the action in goa....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
- Road transportation (Agra->Jaipur) – how should I go about that?
get in touch with the travel agent i mentioned earlier....they can sort this out for you very easily....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
- Local guides – where would it make sense the most? Do you happen to have some good ones to propose?
again i would recommend going through the travel agent....

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
- Restaurants – just shout if you have your favorite ones?
can only comment on delhi here....there is a south indian restaurant called dakshin at the sheraton new delhi....great food....my favorite restaurant in delhi is called 'rodeo' in connaught place....it serves mexican & indian cusine....
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Old Jul 18, 2010, 9:35 am
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I'm going to dissent here & vote in favor of the train rather than hiring a car & driver for at least some of your legs, particularly for Delhi/Agra. Part of the experience of visiting India is riding the trains & the people you meet on them, plus the last thing you need to worry about is the car breaking down or having some problem & how to deal with it. You can book your train travel from here before you go & print out the tickets, its cheap & efficient & the food is fine (just book an A/C chair class or higher on the Shatabdi Express). Hiring a car when you get to Agra is not difficult - book it through your hotel before you leave & they will arrange to meet your train.

Restaurants in Delhi will depend in part on where you will be & what you are doing, just don't stick to eating inside your hotel, its boring after a certain point & you'll miss some of the best food in Delhi. If you can post specifics of what/where you will be in Delhi I can make more suggestions but there are a few below. Remember, Delhi is huge & traffic can majorly suck & the last thing you want to do is spend an hour or more stuck in traffic to get somewhere to eat, so make sure you have suggestions before you go that are near the sightseeing/shopping you want to do.

Also, pick up Time Out Delhi when you arrive, its good for both food recs & stuff to do in Delhi, such as music, art, dance etc.

Re restaurants in Delhi, some fun casual spots where locals eat -

Haldiram's for chaat (I'd avoid the street versions, but here is fine), particularly the raj kachori & papadi chaat, & the daily thali is always a good bet. If you like Indian sweets (they are primarily a sweets store), this is a good place to sample, & they are easy to bring back, just tell the counter you are taking them on the plane & they'll seal the boxes appropriately for you to take (I love the pinni & they freeze well when you get back). You can find locations/addresses on their website, they are all over Delhi.

Solid south indian food (dosas & such) in Delhi can be found at Sagar (10? Defence Colony, they have another branch in Delhi but this is where I've always eaten, details on their website). Very convenient if you're in this part of South Delhi shopping & a fun experience with the waiters bring around extra helpings of sambar etc. Swagath, a very good south indian (mangalore) seafood place is a door or two down.

If you're near Delhi Gate, go eat andhra food at the Andhra Bhavan canteen, particularly on Sunday when they serve Hydrabadi biryani. Can be a bit chaotic, but that's part of the experience.

Khan Chacha - in Khan Market, kind of an institution to go eat the kebabs & rolls. They have a new location opposite Big Chill, but anyone can point you in the right direction (& Big Chill's a good bet for when you're sick of Indian food & just want a slice of mud pie or cheesecake).

If you need sightseeing or shopping suggestions or additional food options (particularly if there's something specific you want to eat or buy, or in a certain location), please holler, Delhi's my home away from home city & I'm happy to help. My Mumbai & Jaipur recs may be a little out of date, its been some years since I was there, but I can provide those too if helpful.

One last rec- I'm not sure what your planned day trips are from Delhi, but one to consider is Amritsar, to see the Golden Temple & Jalianwala Bagh (its very doable via train).

ETA - I'd keep Banglore to a minimum once work is finished & add a hop from Mumbai to Aurangabad instead (from Mumbai its easiest to get there by car & there's seriously nothing to do in Baglore) & go to Ajanta & Ellora. There's a lot of other fun stuff to do in Aurangabad too. Stay at the Lemon Tree.

Last edited by Zaara; Jul 18, 2010 at 6:42 pm
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 1:00 am
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There have been some very detailed answers so I won't try to go into detail that much. A few general points, though:

* Even though it might be logistically a bit tough, I'd try to work in some national parks into the schedule. If you cut off some of the time in Mumbai and Delhi, you could have a few days in e.g. Jim Corbett National Park to see tigers and other wildlife.
* Another option would be going up to the Himalayas, maybe Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve.

Cheers,
T.
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 1:05 am
  #8  
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Originally Posted by Thalassa
There have been some very detailed answers so I won't try to go into detail that much. A few general points, though:

* Even though it might be logistically a bit tough, I'd try to work in some national parks into the schedule. If you cut off some of the time in Mumbai and Delhi, you could have a few days in e.g. Jim Corbett National Park to see tigers and other wildlife.
* Another option would be going up to the Himalayas, maybe Nanda Devi Biosphere Reserve.

Cheers,
T.
i agree....
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Old Jul 19, 2010, 1:59 am
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IMO your itinery was already tough going. I've done it before now- packed everything that I wanted to do in one trip. I ended up absolutely "done in" by the end of the tour. If you want to add to the trip then perhaps you need to drop something else. IF you picked Goa for some rest time then keep it. If not, I think this is the one to drop. I do like Goa, but use it as beach time.
Don't underestimate your itinery. Your covering a huge area so lots of travel time.
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Old Jul 30, 2010, 2:41 am
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india trip

Hi Michal

Here are my two cents:

1. Agree with the rest - 1- 2 days in mumbai is enough - the food is the highlight of the city! you need two days if you want to visit the ajanta caves
2. Rajasthan - is incomplete without Jaisalmer - its a must visit - you can skip Jaipur if need be - but you must visit the sand dunes in jaisalmer and stay overnight in a desert camp. There is also one place called manwar on the way from udaipur to jaisalmer called manwar

http://www.manvar.com/overview.htm

you can stay at one such place - i am sure there will be more.....
from jaislamer - they will take you on camels to the sand dunes and you can spend a night full of music dance and entertainment

In rajasthan, you can stay in 'havelis' which you can easily get for $100 or so.....these are old palacial homes converted to hotels....

3. While in Agra - you must have more time to go to Fatehpursikri - its about 40kms from agra -
Before you visit Agra/Fatehpur You must ask your girlfriend to read the book - 'Twentieth Wife by Indu sunderesan'.

4. You need 3 days in Goa to chill - dont need too much time in Delhi

5. In Kerala, Kumarakam is awesome - yes the house boat sounds good - but its pricey and im not sure if its worth the money - ive also heard of mosquito issues on the house boats

6. Yes - trains are definetly the wya to go espcially if you really wanna peek into the india lives - do book 2nd A/c sleeper tickets

7. Bangalore - pls dont book a hotel - you must stay with us.....i just need to make sure i will be around since its vacation time for the kids - let me know you final dates....

8. the national park is a very good idea....its A MUST SEE.....if you cant me it to Corbett national park - you can go from Bangalore to the Mudumalai forest or kabini - check out this - its not a fancy place - but its a good trip into the jungles of india...

http://www.junglelodges.com/alpha/in...=135&Itemid=98


7. i know you guys are into trekking.....i woudl skip the cities - mumbai/delhi etc and do a trek if possible...check out the below...

http://rupinpass.com/

some of my friends went on the trek above and cant stop talkign about it - but my guess is it might be too cold when you come......

Leh/Ladakh is also much talked about.....


Will send somemore feedback.............but as such your itenary looks good - in a nutshell i woudl recommend cutting out on cities and doing some more forests/treks/beaches etc.


sarita
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Old Aug 15, 2010, 3:49 am
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well, well, well - here we are again

Dear FTs,

first of all thanks a ton for all your suggestions / advices / ideas around our trip - both posted here and in the PM. I have worked with one agency involved with wedding arrangements (more or less) and here's the final outcome of the initial agenda.

Please shout if there's any NOGO or you have your own MUST SEE items in those areas. As usual - restaurant suggestions will be appreciated (thanks for all notes so far!).


6th December DELHI – AGRA (4 hrs approx) - evening visits
7th December AGRA – JAIPUR (5 ˝ hrs approx)
Taj at sunrise / Drive via Fatehpur Sikri
8th December IN JAIPUR (Amber Fort, City Palace)
9th December JAIPUR – UDAIPUR (6 hrs approx) boat ride at Lake Pichola
10th December IN UDAIPUR (Sightseeing)
11th December UDAIPUR – MUMBAI (morning Air), City Tour
12th December IN MUMBAI, overnight to GOA
13th December GOA (resting)
14th December IN GOA (resting)
15th December GOA – COCHIN (more resting, overnight to Cochin)
16th December ARRIVE COCHIN->Kumarakom
17th to 19th Dec WEDDING
20th December KUMARAKOM – ALLEPPEY (houseboat)
21st December COCHIN (traval, visits)
22nd December COCHIN – BANGALORE (visits, travel)
23rd December work & sightseeing & pleasuring our hosts
24th December work (ooopsss, it's Christmas Eve!)
25th December BANGALORE – DELHI (flight, Delhi sightseeing)
26th December DELHI - Sightseeing, preparation for departure
27th Devember (2AM) departure West

So, what do you think?
thanks again for all earlier notes.

mf
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Old Aug 15, 2010, 7:09 am
  #12  
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that's a pretty hectic itinerary michalfkowalik....have fun....
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Old Aug 16, 2010, 10:01 pm
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Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
6th December DELHI – AGRA (4 hrs approx) - evening visits
7th December AGRA – JAIPUR (5 ˝ hrs approx)
Taj at sunrise / Drive via Fatehpur Sikri
8th December IN JAIPUR (Amber Fort, City Palace)
9th December JAIPUR – UDAIPUR (6 hrs approx) boat ride at Lake Pichola
10th December IN UDAIPUR (Sightseeing)
11th December UDAIPUR – MUMBAI (morning Air), City Tour
12th December IN MUMBAI, overnight to GOA
13th December GOA (resting)
14th December IN GOA (resting)
15th December GOA – COCHIN (more resting, overnight to Cochin)
16th December ARRIVE COCHIN->Kumarakom
17th to 19th Dec WEDDING
20th December KUMARAKOM – ALLEPPEY (houseboat)
21st December COCHIN (traval, visits)
22nd December COCHIN – BANGALORE (visits, travel)
23rd December work & sightseeing & pleasuring our hosts
24th December work (ooopsss, it's Christmas Eve!)
25th December BANGALORE – DELHI (flight, Delhi sightseeing)
26th December DELHI - Sightseeing, preparation for departure
27th Devember (2AM) departure West
Methinks you're going to be drained out by the middle of your 2nd week...
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Old Nov 20, 2010, 6:05 am
  #14  
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your last thoughts ...

Hey FTers!

hope you don't mind me refreshing my own thread, but I just wanted to check if you have any "MUST SEE" or "DON'T DO THAT" items for:
- Agra
- Jaipur
- Udaipur
- Mumbai
- Goa
- Cochin
- Bangalore
- Delhi

Would be so great to hear if you have your favorite local restaurant, nice place to rest, dont-go-tourist-spot or usual-scam-area. I did my homework by reading several guides as well as FT, but just wondering if you have any top-of-mind thoughts.

Thanks in advance and have a great weekend!
mf
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Old Nov 25, 2010, 4:28 pm
  #15  
 
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Goa

Originally Posted by MichalFKowalik
Hey FTers!

hope you don't mind me refreshing my own thread, but I just wanted to check if you have any "MUST SEE" or "DON'T DO THAT" items for:

- Goa

mf
So, I call myself a goan having spent most of my childhood there (and my vacations since I left Goa).

I don't see where you are staying in Goa. If you want to spend time at the beach, I would suggest staying at one of the resorts which have a fenced off area at the beach(so its reasonably private).

However, in my opinion that is a real waste of time in Goa. I would try to spend at least a day (the day in the middle that you have) to go around to check out some of the churches, and if nothing else, the spice gardens. I came across them last year when a bunch of my european friends were around, and while its a bit expensive (by indian standards), it is aimed at foreigners, and you will have a nice time there. Also, these friends of mine were quite interested in checking out the churches of old goa. And if you are planning to do this, try for a hotel in Panjim (which is the capital and a very nice town IMO)

The other piece of advice would be that the transport situation in Goa is pretty poor. Don't expect to find taxis easily. The best option is to hire a car for the full day, which should be in the range of 30 euros or so a day. (And imo well worth it). Also, try to get the hotel to find you a taxi. It might be a bit costlier, but the guy would be known to the hotel and so safer.

Also note, the beaches are NOT all safe. There are not as many life guards as one would like (last I was in India, I was informed that some of the major beaches have life guards, but again, I am not sure how well covered they are). There have been cases of good swimmers (I am talking about naval swimmers) being caught in the currents and being unable to do anything to save themselves. So be safe.

Have a fun time, and do let us know if you enjoyed your time in Goa
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