Back from Paris
 

So got back from my trip to Paris, and will post some of my experiences:
I will post my original schedule (using >> in front of it) and what I actually ended up doing.

First off, funny story. Took off from JFK, and my gf decided to buy some makeup remover from Duty Free. They gave us the package at our gate. We took off, landed in London and transferred to the other Terminal to get on the Air France flight to Paris. Guess what...they said we couldnt bring it through security since its over X ounces of liquid. Luckily I never check in bags, so I had my duffel bag, and we used that to check in. But we went from having a 90 minute wait to being one of the last ones on the plane, since we had to leave the airport and walk over to the ticket gate to check in a bag. I was surprised we couldnt bring the stuff on, the stuff was still in the sealed Duty Free bag.

>>Aug 22 (Sat)
>>Go to Monmartre and Pigalle area in the evening after stopping by hotel
>>Sacre Coeur
>>Moulin Rouge

Got to Paris, and took the RER B to Denfert-Rochereau, pretty easy trip, but it was hot on the train!
Hotel was nice, room was smaller than I expected. And very strange, the bathtub's glass door only went 1/2 the length of the tub. So when I showered the water got all over the bathroom floor. Not sure why they designed it like this.

Went to Sacre Coeur around 6:30 (took Metro) got there at 7 so it was closed. Took pictures outside and then walked down to Pigalle and Moulin Rouge.


>>Aug 23 (Sun)
>>Versaille Palace
>>Seine River Cruise
>>Eiffel Tower

Woke up and ate breakfast in the restaurant (since the lounge was closed) then went back upstairs and fell asleep until noon. (our whole trip was messed up, we either woke up late or went back to sleep everyday...we always ended up leaving the hotel around 12:30pm everyday) We decided not to go to Versaille...so we went to the Catacombes, then took the Metro to St. Michael fountain, then walked over to Luxenburg Garden, then walked over to the courtyard of the Lourve to take pictures (it was around 6:30 by now) then walked to the Eiffel Tower for some night pics. I expected the Tower to be big like the Empire state Building (Im from NY) but seeing it in person was a shock.

>>Aug 24 (Mon)
>>Champs Elysee
>>Arc de Triomphe
>>Place de la Concorde
>>Tuillerie Garden

Left the hotel around noon and took the Metro to the Arc. Took some pictures from the outside, then walked down the Champs. Ate at a restaurant she read about (Chez Andre), then walked down Ave de M... (dont remember, had Channel and Prada I think) then it started to rain. Walked over to Concord, then the rain got really heavy, hid out under an awning. When it stopped, walked over to Printemps and went to the roof. Took a bus back to the Arc and walked up to the top.

>>Aug 25 (Tues)
>>Palais de Chaillot/Trocadero Garden
>>Eiffel Tower during day (9-12:45am)
>>Musee de Rodin
>>Hotel des Invalides (Napoleon Tomb)

Went to Hotel des Invalides then went to Rodin.
I liked Rodin better than Invalides (went through Rodin a lot quicker than Invalides), but Napoleon's tomb was cool. The minitures on the top floor of Invalides were really cool.
Walked across the river and along the Seine, stopped by Grand Palis (but it was closed) and walked past Musuee de Tokyo? but didnt go in. The front of it was full of people skate boarding. Walked past the Liberty Flame (forgot to look at the statue on the bridge that measures the water level of Seine!!)
Walked to Trocadero and took a bunch of pictures of Eiffel Tower. Then walked to the Tower and went up to the 3rd level.

>>Aug 26 (Weds)
>>Tuillery & Opera
>>Louvre Museum
>>Place de la Concorde

Again, like everyday this week, didnt leave the hotel until close to 1pm, so we went directly to the Louvre. We went to the Carasel to see the inverted pyramid. Then went inside...NOW I totally understand what everyone means about the size of it. I didnt even know where to start! Stayed there until 9pm.

>>Aug 27 (Thurs)
>>Musee D'Orsay
>>Notre Dame
>>St. Chappelle
>>Pont Neuf

Went to Notre Dame did not go upstairs because the line was too long. then walked to St. Chappelle then back to il de St. Louis, but stopped by Notre Dame and decided to wait on line to go upstairs. Went upstairs, then tried to go to the Deportation Musuem...but it was closed!!
Walked to il St. Louis, then walked to Musee d'Orsay (I liked it).
Then walked REALLY FAR to go to a place she read about (Aux Lyonnais) for dinner.

>>Aug 28 (Fri)
>>St. Germain & Latin Qtr
>>Jardin du Luxembourg
>>leave for airport at 3pm

Actually woke up early...left the hotel at 10, went to La Bon Marche, walked to il st. louis and stopped by Deportation Musuem...still closed!!
Bought some items on Il St Louis, then we went back to the hotel and relaxed in the lounge until 4 and went to the airport via RER B.

All in all, a fun trip.
Paris was very hot though and humid, my clothes were soaked in sweat by the time I got back to the hotel each night.
I liked Orsay the best because it was a good size to go through...the Louvre was just too big.

Next time, try to force yourself onto a French schedule the day after you arrive. No more of this sleeping in until whatever... you simply have to get up and re-set your own personal clock. I've also found that doing something physical- a long walk, a bike ride, whatever- the afternoon of the first day I arrive helps me to sleep well.

It used to take me several days to adjust to the time difference, but now, I'm in pretty good shape the day after arrival.

I agree completely about the Musee d'Orsay. It's just the right size! If a first-timer to Paris must visit the Louvre, it should probably be later in the day so you don't completely lose track of time (since you'll be kicked out when it closes). The Louvre will suck you dry of any time you have!

Wow, you almost did each single thing on your schedule and you did it mostly by foot. I'm impressed. That was a ton of walking. I mean Luxembourg to Louvre is easy but Louvre to Eiffel Tower that's a good bit! But good for you. By foot is the best way to explore Paris. You could have squeezed in more probably had you used public transport or taxis for the longer distances.

I got a good laugh about what you said about the Louvre. We told you it was BIIIIIIIIIIIIG. :D

Now what do you mean about the Eiffel Tower? Did it appear bigger to you than what you imagined or smaller? I remember that when I came to NYC the first time (age 16) I was quite disappointed. I thought the buildings would appear taller. The Empire State at 381 is actually a good bit taller than the ET at 324. The ET is even a bit smaller than the Chrysler Building (gorgeous) but it seems bigger to me.

Here is an interesting fact sheet about the ET:
http://www.tour-eiffel.fr/teiffel/uk.../chiffres.html

The weight is particularly impressive.

About the liquid restriction, we could have told you that. I had the same thing happen to me when I was going from Zurich to Austin with a change in New York. I had bought some brandy in the Zurich duty free shop. Sealed, transparent bag with bill. Obviously not a terrorist item. :) The TSA agent actually helped me to locate a box and some packing material because I had to either check it or give it up. It was a present for my best friend so it was worth the trouble and giving it up was not really an option.

Till

>>Now what do you mean about the Eiffel Tower? Did it appear bigger to you than what you imagined or smaller?

It was much bigger.

I guess its because, the Empire State building is a "building" on a city block so you can't get a good understanding of the size.
You can only see it from downstairs, if you moved back then you are on another block and buildings will be in the way.

But the Eiffel Tower, you can walk up to it/under it/away from it, and nothing blocks your view so you get the full effect.

This is very common throughout Europe. The showerhead is usually a handheld type and you can angle things in such a way as not to get water all over the bathroom floor. Or, at least, I can. My boyfriend has never mastered that and he gripes about this all the time.

It's a big step up from older, cheaper places in Paris (and other cities) where the shower head is just randomly placed on the wall and there is no tub or any sort of enclosure so the whole bathroom gets soaked no matter what you do.

But, did you get to McDonalds??

The jetlag thing in always a real bummer. We've learned that the best thing to do is just ignore it and force ourselves to get up at a normal hour and start the day. Within a couple days we're usually fairly adjusted. One place the time change works to our advantage, however, is Barcelona where getting up at noon and staying up until 2:00am is just what they ALL do!!

Here's my recipe for the jetlag.

Assuming access to your hotel room by early afternoon on your arrival day, set your alarm clock for 430pm or so. Lay down on the bed for a nap, on top of the covers, fully-clothed. Do not, I repeat, do not, under any circumstances, get undressed, take a shower or get under the covers. If you do, you are doomed. You'll never get up when the alarm rings.

Get up when the alarm does go off. Then, take a shower and get into some fresh clothing. A nice walk, a good dinner with an aperitif and some wine, a another stroll and/or nightcap after dinner and to bed by 11. A benadryl or similar if you need a sleep aid.

Set the alarm for 730am or so, get your butt out of bed, get showered, and get moving.

You'll be on an approximation of a normal schedule. You might feel it for a couple days but the worst will be over.

Grand Palais is only open for major temporary exhibitions or events
Just opposite Le Petit Palais is a nice place to visit (free, recently renovated, and with a lovely café-restaurant: Le jardin du Petit Palais, the nicest terrace in Paris, better for a drink than for lunch)


Palais de Tokyo is a contemporary museum with cutting edge art exhibitions, with a hype restaurant (Tokyo Eat) + very pleasant summer terrace. Just opposite, Musée d'art Moderne de la Ville de Paris (permanent collections of 20th century art are free and impressive, recently renovated) and Palais Galliera (Fashion museum)

How did you like it?
Aux Lyonnais is a good choice: very traditional French cuisine with the Ducasse twist. I like this place, and the menu is not so expansive (except for the wine list)

And nothing about your McDonald's French experience?? :D:D

>Aux Lyonnais

She liked it...but to be honest, we picked off the fixed price dinner, and we had no idea what the food was. And the waiters/waitress "seemed" like they didnt speak any english.

As for McDonalds, we did go, and it was interesting...you can order using a computer, but when we tried it the machine did not take my credit card.
Very strange, so we waited on line.

Many, if not most, point-of-sale terminals in France require cards with an embedded chip. This can lead to some unhappy folks trying to buy gas along the motorways.

Very cool reading your report! I was in Paris for a day and a half a few weeks before you, and had many similar thoughts to yours.

The difference is I didn't plan anything as I just wanted to hang out with my cousin in her country... and that was accomplished.

The shower thing is funny... its the same in Australia too, very European... I guess Americans (or at least I) need both hands when washing, so having the shower head splatter all over is annoying, but once you actually take it and move it around, there's less mess. lol

I too saw the liberty flame, but completely forgot to look for the miniature statue of liberty... I will do that on my next trip... (which is next month, LOL I couldn't resist to go back, I'm super bored with Australia)


We waited in line for the Eiffel tower, which I - unlike you - thought was smaller than I had imagined it (but so was the Sydney Opera House, so I guess I have a thing for Big things, which I didn't realize before) but they closed the top level as we got closer to the ticket window... so we said screw it... next time.


Like you we also walked all over the place the first day... and night.... but on the following day we bought a bunch of metro passes and actually used them.


I found the metro system to be pretty annoying... a lot of mazes, with a lot of steps, and nothing made sense! I don't know how people with disability or those having problems walking can rely on that system?



I definitely feel that 1.5 days wasn't enough and will go back again this October... although there are many other things about France I would like to discover as well.


--Russ

Non-chipped MC/Visa issue
 

This is not true! Many, if not most employed by some French establishments don't understand that their card readers have slots that a non-chipped card can be read by sliding it through. Sometimes it's on the bottom, sometimes it's on the side. But if they signed an agreement that allows them to take MC or Visa at all, they agreed to take non-chipped cards and swipe them on their fancy blue-tooth-enabled machines.

It varies dramatically, by region, where they'll hassle you (and simply not take a non-chipped card) vs happily process the transaction. I went 7 years without a hitch until I came across the city of Tarbes in which it was not voila but rather "non chip, euros only." At several places! And here's the funny thing. If, before ordering, I asked if they took a non-chipped card, it was always oui. Otherwise, if presented at time of payment without asking, non. That was in 2007. This year, 2009, I had no issues anywhere, which included various places in the Alps, Avignon, Paris, and many points in-between.

One could theorize that cash transactions are preferred for not-entirely-honest reasons at eating establishments. One could but I don't understand the system of French taxation on sales & profits to know how big an incentive exists for essentially under-the-table transactions.

Sometimes it is innocent though. At a bakery on the outskirts of Pau, the young lady couldn't figure out a non-chipped card, but a local who spoke fluent English and knew his way around (I have a feeling he was a business owner himself) did everything he could to show her that her card reader had a slot in the side and all she had to do was swipe it and have us sign. To no avail whatsoever. In this case, I doubt the young lady was trying anything deceitful. She just had no experience whatsoever with a non-chipped card. This was not a place a typical tourist would visit (most of the places I go are not), so I'll give her the benefit of the doubt on this one. Clueless with reason.

Having said all that, there are frustrations you'll face with a non-chipped credit card that can't be avoided, nearly all of them dealing with automated machinery, such as the ticket machines at train stations (you have to go to a ticket window to collect your ticket). Thankfully, the toll road machines have no problems! Nor did the automated check-in machine at the Etap hotel.

But again, it's only been in that one region that I've run into trouble, and specifically one town (Tarbes). The incident in Pau was the exception (although it's not that far away from Tarbes... but I've been through the Pyrenees many times and not had trouble elsewhere).

The shower thing is funny. I find that the European style shower where you can either have it fixed on a rod or hold it in your hand is clearly superior. You have both options and can even adjust the height of the shower head on the rod. It does spray out a little further but usually even the inclination of the head can be adjusted. I find it is a great advantage to be able to direct the stream of water directly where you want it and adjust intensity by adjusting the distance to the skin. With the American system one wiggles like a fish on sand and it is hard to get your feet or other lower parts rinsed properly. Ladies (or gents) with long hair will particularly appreciate how much easier it is to rinse your hair with a European shower head on a hose than with the American fixed version.

When I moved to the US changing the shower head was one of the first things I did.

The glass wall that covers only half of the tub is the norm. Easier to get in and out, less movable parts, easier to clean, less accident risk, and -importantly- cheaper. These glass shower walls are quite expensive. $500 and up with installation.

Metro in Paris.

The Metro is highly efficient and very well thought out. One of the best I've been in. Walks are often long but the signage is good. Cons: It stinks and it is not handicapped accessible. Hardly any part of the city is. Have you seen those foot high board walks without ramps? I think I have seen exactly 0 (zero) wheelchairs in five years there.

Till

I am a parisian and I second all your comments on the metro.
It is really a shame Paris (and France in general) is not handicapped accessible.

Sweden is the opposite.

But the poster wasn't talking about machines run by a person, but rather about automated points - fuel pumps, ticket kiosks (and apparently the McDonalds' ordering station). It is well documented that the vast majority of those do not accept non-chip cards.