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Old Jun 27, 2010, 9:55 pm
  #1  
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Lightbulb Jeans and Sneakers at Paris Restaurants?

I'll be going to Paris soon and I would like to splurge one night and eat at a nice Paris restaurant ($40 a plate?). Do those restaurants typically have a dress code? What should I wear?

I've heard both sides, some say they definitely do, and others say they are not particular even in the summer.
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Old Jun 28, 2010, 2:57 am
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Really, €32 a plate can get you some pretty shabby places in Paris - it all depends on where you go and what you have in mind.

That said, if you find a place that isn't touristy and is worth €32/plate for the food you eat, you'll likely find that your co-diners are dressed up much more than any American would be. I would not be surprised to find men in (casual) blazers, khakis/slacks, and nice shoes when going out for dinner. Remember that eating is a national pastime for the French; you should expect that acting similarly will get you better service and fewer looks.

When you've done a little research on where you might want to go, someone (perhaps myself) may be able to help out more specifically on what you should expect.

Peace.
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Old Jun 28, 2010, 3:53 am
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My experience is the French dress much better (think smart casual) than the Americans do for anything. That said, if you are wearing an expensive pair of jeans and shoes no one should say anything. I would fore go the sneakers.
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Old Jun 28, 2010, 5:46 am
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Jeans and sneakers could mean a nice pair of fashionable black jeans with stylish, non-white, sneaker-type shoes.

They also can mean what 95% of Americans wear, which is Levis and sneakers built for the gym. And in that outfit, you will definitely be trashing up most Parisian restaurants offering a 40 Euro menu. That doesn't mean that you won't see people dressed like that-you will, and I'm afraid many of them may be unthoughtful or unknowing Americans.

I suggest that you either upgrade the clothes or downgrade the dining aspirations.
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Old Jun 28, 2010, 9:51 am
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Nice black jeans work, especially with a nice shirt or, in cooler weather, a sweater.

Nix the athletic shoes, though. Doesnt matter what kind or color, it ID's you as a rube, whether you are or not. There are plenty of casual, comfortable shoes that would fit the bill.
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Old Jun 28, 2010, 11:41 am
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Most places I've been to in Paris don't have the kind of dress code where they'd refuse to seat you in jeans and sneakers. And at many of them you probably wouldn't know the difference in the reception you receive, if you're not too sensitive to or particular about that kind of thing. But if it is something you'd pay attention to, you might feel a bit self-conscious. The Parisians in the restaurant might give you a brief "look," or they might not. You might be seated in a more "hidden" part of the dining room. Your waiter might be less eager to offer help in translating the menu, or waiting for you to make your selection. None of these inconveniences, in my mind, is worth missing the opportunity.

On the other hand, I know what you're thinking (or at least imagine I do). I used to think the same way. Dress comfortably, pack light. Right? When you're dressing casually at home, you wear jeans and sneakers. So that's what you'll wear sightseeing, and you don't want to add nicer clothes and shoes to the suitcase.

Since my early days traveling to Europe, I've given up the jeans altogether. I simply pack khakis or nicer dress pants and nice woven shirts for all my travel in the cities. I've discovered that, contrary to my initial assumptions, jeans are not really the most comfortable option. Khakis and dress slacks are much more comfortable. They're also significantly lighter, and I can pack two pair in the same space as 1 pair of jeans. To do the trip with fewer than 1 pair of pants per day, you may (should) be concerned about getting a smudge on khakis that are actually khaki in color. For that reason I tend to stick with navy and black. The only other reason to wear jeans would be for their durability against abrasions and tears, but really, they're not likely to see that kind of wear in a city, are they?

The extra packing space freed up by ditching the jeans may open up enough room for some nicer shoes. If you decide to ditch the sneakers, too, in deference to nicer shoes, you may also find you save even more space with the shoes. They don't have to be exceptionally dressy; leather loafers will do. My dressier shoes pack in about 2/3 the space of my sneakers.

However, when it comes to shoes, it must be recognized that for many people, especially on a first or second visit to a European city as a tourist, you're probably going to be spending a LOT of time on your feet. And comfort has to be considered at some point. So sometimes I do still make the trip with sneakers rather than dressier shoes. But I at least invested in black sneakers to make them less obtrusive. I used to have a pair of dressier shoes with a sneaker-like sole, and that was the best solution ever, but alas, those shoes eventually came apart and I have not been able to find anything like them since. Someone will suggest Rockports, which are sold as "dress" shoes with comfort soles, but those shoes all look and feel too clunky for my taste, and still don't provide the cushion I get from air-filled sneakers.

Finally, while you can spend $40 at a "shabby" place, if you choose carefully, there are some absolutely heavenly places at or near that price range, too (Google "Bib Gourmand").

And while you're calling it a splurge now, be advised that it's the kind of splurge that can be habit-forming. On your next trip, you'll try to dine this way for as many meals as possible. The trip after that, you'll plan your entire itinerary around the restaurants. Soon, you won't be justifying the restaurant bill, but entire trips that would not have been made except for the lure of the Parisian dinner. And on one of those trips, you'll get a new idea: "Just how much would it cost to own a little apartment here in Paris? A 'pied a terre,' so to speak?" Somewhere along the way, you'll discover that seeking the exceptional meal in the French countryside offers its own glorious rewards that aren't available in Paris.

That's where I am now in my own addiction. Who knows what symptom is next?

Last edited by Helena Handbaskets; Jun 28, 2010 at 11:48 am Reason: fixing typos
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Old Jun 29, 2010, 12:35 pm
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Originally Posted by Helena Handbaskets
On your next trip, you'll try to dine this way for as many meals as possible. The trip after that, you'll plan your entire itinerary around the restaurants. Soon, you won't be justifying the restaurant bill, but entire trips that would not have been made except for the lure of the Parisian dinner. And on one of those trips, you'll get a new idea: "Just how much would it cost to own a little apartment here in Paris? A 'pied a terre,' so to speak?" Somewhere along the way, you'll discover that seeking the exceptional meal in the French countryside offers its own glorious rewards that aren't available in Paris.

That's where I am now in my own addiction. Who knows what symptom is next?
You and I seem to be at roughly the same stage of Francomania. I can't afford my pied à terre yet, but I already have my neighborhood picked out--a hillside in Belleville that's remarkably similar to the Silverlake area of Los Angeles. I've also staked out the street in my favorite Loire Valley village where I hope one day to have my country place. Several years ago there was a ruined house for sale on that street and it was sorely tempting.
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Old Jul 1, 2010, 1:09 am
  #8  
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I'm back with some more info on where I would like to go. Do you know what the proper dress would be for each of these restaurants?

(cheap?) http://www.bosquetparis.com/w/restaurant/home.php

(expensive?) http://www.leflorimond.com/fr/LA_CUISINE

http://www.lacouronne.com.fr/galerie.jsp?lang=en

Also, how could I go about making reservations at these places? And how far in advance should I make them?

Last edited by Delta767; Jul 1, 2010 at 1:22 am
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Old Jul 1, 2010, 4:35 am
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Here is what cityvox.fr says about each of your places:

Le Florimond review at Cityvox.fr (reservation by telephone only)
Le Bosquet review at Cityvox.fr (with reservation link)
La Couronne review at Cityvox.fr (reservation link on restaurant's website)

The two restaurants you've listed in Paris are reviewed mainly as brasseries meaning that they are more casual than restaurants. I also saw a reviewer that commented on the amount of tourists in these restaurants, so I wouldn't believe that dressing up beyond nice jeans, nice shoes, and a button-up shirt (for men) would be required. I also noted that some reviewers commented that the price-to-quality ratio was a little high, suggesting that you're looking for "nice restaurants" in the wrong place. If you want to have a nice meal in Paris at French standards of quality vs. price, I would suggest you get out of the 7th.

Regarding your pick in Rouen, this is more of the traditional restaurant (i.e., not a brasserie) that you seem to be looking for and is on Cityvox's best picks list. A few reviews have noted high prices here as well.

Some Suggestions:
Google translate is your friend. Go to translate.google.com and enter a website to see the entire page translated to English.

Take a look at cityvox.fr's best picks list for Paris. On quick glance, La Gare restaurant seems within your budget, is a more traditionally-designed restaurant, and is in the area that I was thinking of as having more Parisian-standard upscale dining (15th and 16th). Honestly though, La Gare was just the first on the list that piqued my interest; there will certainly be more there.

Peace.
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Old Jul 1, 2010, 6:37 am
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Le Bosquet is nothing special-just a neighborhood place, and within reason, anything will do for clothes. This is not the best place you could go for the money.

Florimond is a good restaurant, offering old fashioned French dishes. You would not have to dress up much here-a nice shirt and pants (or stylish black jeans) would be fine. I suggest you make a reservation as it is very small.

La Gare gets good reviews. mostly for its outdoor seating. The items on the menu are the type that can be prepared way in advance. It is a big place and the whole feeling is like dining on a cruise-mechanical service, food that's ok but not special-a very commercial operation relying on volume. I will not go back there as there are many better choices.

One of my current favorites is L'Entetee:

http://www.myspace.com/entetee

The 34 Euro, three course menu is a very good deal. Check their menu on the link above-it is limited to four items for each course, and some translation before you go would be advised. What the menu doesn't describe is the magic the young chef/owner performs with the dishes she serves. I would dress here as recommended for Florimond. L'Entetee doesn't try to do 2 seatings a night like many of the well-reviewed places are starting to do, and which I really don't like. It's also near one of the major food shopping streets in Paris, which is very interesting to wander through.

Another place I like is Oscar, over the river but not far from the Bosquet-Rapp intersection. Here's one of several third party links:

http://www.eat-out.net/restaurant-paris/rp158193-oscar

The food here is not as unique as L'Entetee, but they serve current French dishes that are always well prepared. You really feel like you're in Paris here, with lighting and atmosphere just like you always thought a Paris bistro would be. The owners always have a smile and big welcome for old and new clients alike. We usually go to Oscar on our first night back in Paris. Dress suggestion here is same as Florimond and L'Entetee.
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Old Jul 1, 2010, 8:30 pm
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For restaurants that require a phone call for reservations, if you don't trust your French on the phone, it can be a good idea to email the concierge at your hotel and ask them to make a reservation for you.
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Old Jul 1, 2010, 9:03 pm
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I have not been thrown out of a restaurant yet while wearing jeans and sneakers. In fact, that's what I usually wear anywhere I travel.

Depends on where you go, €75 for a dinner is common place. That said, I've enjoyed good eats with €35.
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Old Jul 2, 2010, 1:42 pm
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Originally Posted by allset2travel
I have not been thrown out of a restaurant yet while wearing jeans and sneakers. In fact, that's what I usually wear anywhere I travel.

Depends on where you go, €75 for a dinner is common place. That said, I've enjoyed good eats with €35.
While I don't wear jeans in Paris I agree with this comment. If you asked the question 10-15 years ago my answer would be different. But, these days, you see jeans all over in Paris. My son said someone was wearing jeans at Le Grand Vefour when he was there.

Bobette
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Old Jul 2, 2010, 5:17 pm
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Originally Posted by b1513
While I don't wear jeans in Paris I agree with this comment. If you asked the question 10-15 years ago my answer would be different. But, these days, you see jeans all over in Paris. My son said someone was wearing jeans at Le Grand Vefour when he was there.

Bobette
Horrors! I actually bought a new suit to wear to lunch at Le Grand Vefour. Well, it was a good excuse to buy a new suit, anyway...
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Old Jul 3, 2010, 1:26 am
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Didn't Will Rogers have some sort of comment on this, something like he didn't go places that required him to buy new clothes? I'm happy to say my travel clothes fit everywhere in Bulgaria.
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