We were in Istanbul for three days last month and LOVED it. We stayed at the Neorion in Sultananmet, imo one of the best hotels we've ever stayed. We found the food to be fantastic, and the locals to be some of the most welcoming people around. You will not be disappointed.

Anyone have issues with taxis -- either safety or waits -- at the Airport. I'm getting into Istanbul at 4 pm after a transatalantic flight and really don't want to wait in a line or get hassled when I'm half asleep.

In my experience it's all pretty orderly, and I've never had to wait very long. The official taxis are yellow, and you follow the "taxi" signs after exiting the customs hall.

Taxis fares are metered. Istanbul taxi drivers don't always know their city as well as one might expect, but I think it's genuine ignorance rather than a scam. Leaving from the airport to go to some central spot like a hotel should pose no difficulties, but it is always a good idea to have the name of the place you're going and its address written on a piece of paper (or, once you've checked in, take a hotel card, etc, with you).

The drivers are generally pleasant or, in a few cases, not unpleasant.

I was in Istanbul in November last year, I was sure I'd manage to escape the crowds as I was visiting in the off season, boy was I wrong! Fortunately, I had been to Istanbul before so I wasn't pressed to visit all the must see sights. Visit sights early in the morning to avoid crowds. I had wanted to revisit Haghia Sofia as it was being restored the last time I was in Istanbul. The lines were extremely long, one morning I went just before they had opened, there was already a line of people waiting for tickets, I got a ticket and got in. An hour after Haigha Sofia opened hoards of tourists showed up.

I do not recommend staying on the Asian side, Istanbul is huge city and you will waste time travelling to the European side for sightseeing (most of the historic sights are on the European side). I'd look for accomodation in the Sultanahmet area as this will be your first visit to the city.

I would second this. The Sultanahmet area is the place to stay, and there are lots of hotels there to suit all budgets.

The are some interesting things to see on the Asian side [e.g. the Beylerbeyi Palace, the wondrous Bağdat Caddesi (Baghdad Avenue), surely one of the most beautiful shopping streets in the world], but really all of the must-see sites are on the European side.

And one mustn't run away with the idea that the Asian side will be more "exotic" or more "Asian" to visit – the Grand Bazaar/Covered Market (Kapalı Çarşı) is on the European side, near the Sultanahmet area, whereas the above- mentioned Bağdat Caddesi (Baghdad Avenue), which would rival any shopping street in western Europe, is on the Asian side. (There are plenty of splendid European-style shopping and dining areas on the European side too – after all, Istanbul is not a simple city to define or characterise!)

we stayed in this place
http://www.ayasofyakonaklari.com/en/reservation.jsp

it appears the place has been cleaned up a bit. we stayed in pasha suite for $100 a night. that would have been maybe 10-15 years ago in feb. (there were about 5 guests there, total)if you face the aya sophia, you will hear frequent call to prayers from dawn to dusk

the location is fabulous. it is stuck into the wall of topkapi, and faces aya sophia.

For our last year's visit to Istanbul, we stayed at the TAN hotel in the Sultanahmet area. reasonable and recommended by another FTer. If we had booked directly from the hotel, probably could have gotten the airport pickup + a cash discount on the hotel's cost for 4 nights stay. --we used bookings & there was the airport pickup benefit. Property is clean, comfortable, quiet, good daily buffet breakfast with cooked to order eggs. good location, easy walk to Topkapi, etc.

A couple of years ago we stayed in the Biz Cevahir Otel in Sultanahmet - great location, clean rooms but at that time the breakfast buffet was passable but nothing better. The hotel offered an airport pick up. If you want dinner with a view try the roof terrace at the Blue House Hotel which is not far away - great views over the Bosphorus and of the Blue Mosque - the food was decent and reasonably priced.

There is no problem getting a visa for a US citizen. They didn't even ask any questions. They put a stamp in my passport and asked $20 for the visa.

Sultanahmet area is the only way to go. Mostly small hotels, except for the 4S.

As to the poster asking about visiting Turkey from Paris to see the beaches...why don't you go to Cannes/Nice etc? I wouldn't go to Istanbul to go to the beach and it's probably easier to get to South of France.

There is a nice Doubletree near the University and the Grand Bazaar.

Spent a week there last month- very nice.

Any thoughts on safety for a solo American traveler? My friend was just there with his wife for 5 days and warned against a solo excursion. Said they felt unsafe most of the trip (though nothing happened). He tells me the hotel had all sorts of warnings about scams and even physical situations and insisted on ordering them round trip taxis everywhere. Of a 12 day tour around the region, he felt the most unsafe there of anywhere. (And he's not a meek guy by any means).

I've traveled quite a bit but was looking at a long weekend (this one actually!) in IST to recharge and am thinking this may not be the place to go myself for that purpose. Thoughts?

Well, I don't know: I've never felt especially unsafe in Istanbul at all. As in all big cities, there will be petty crime, I suppose, although I haven't encountered it personally. Sometimes in the touristy areas one is approached by someone who tries to take you under his wing (e.g. "Come with me, I can get you into the Blue Mosque without waiting in a line and it is shutting early this afternoon"); just politely decline and move on. One wouldn't accept such an offer in New York or London, so I am at a loss to know why one would accept it in Istanbul - although if you did nothing much is likely to happen beyond your forking out a lot of money for not very much.

I have also read about scams where tourists accept an invitation to go and have a drink with someone that approaches them on the street and find themselves drugged and robbed. Again, one wouldn't do that in New York or London, so why do people decide that it's safe to do it in Istanbul?

In truth, Istanbul is one of the world's great cities to visit, and it is perfect for a short break. Although one could spend a year there and not see everything, many of the main sites are within easy walking distance of each other in the Sultanahmet area. And myself, I'd say it's a pretty safe city for a visitor.

Appreciate the response, Christopher. I think it probably is fine but maybe he knows I'm not one to sit home at night and prefer to explore nightlife - and that is where he's worried.... I think I'm going to skip this long weekend, but instead work Istanbul/Turkey into a larger trip down the road.