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TXHolmes Dec 8, 2010 7:08 am

Munich-Hallstatt-Vienna-Prague - Itinerary suggestions?
 
Howdy FTers,
Just wanted to garner some suggestions for things to do along the way, or things to do in the cities on an upcoming trip before Christmas... its a quick itinerary mainly to "preview" the area of Europe and visit the Christmas Markets... what are your favorite places to see, or restaurants along my route or in the cities I will be visiting? I tend to like grand photo ops, or small untouristy finds... quite a dichotomy I know, haha.

Sunday - 24 hours in London and the Trafalgar Hotel overnight (Thinking Kew Gardens Orchid House, Westminster/BigBen and the tower of London)

Monday -
Arrive Munich 2PM, car rental, drive to Hallstatt Austria and the Heritage Hotel for 2 nights (ice cave, maybe the salt mine?)

Wednesday - Drive to Vienna and the Hotel Imperial for 2 nights (no plans other than the palace, Christmas Markets, and wandering the city)

Friday - Drive to Prague and the Hilton Old Town for 2 nights (Wenceslas sq and prague castle, any recommendations to buy Crystal?)

Sunday - Drive to Munich and the Hilton City for one night, depart for TX Monday at 11AM (the BMW museum?)

I got some amazing advice on the tube in London, and places to see from searching the forum, but didnt see much about Hallstatt or the routes I will be driving (with a GPS of course, haha)

Thanks so much!

adventureadam Dec 8, 2010 6:18 pm

So I have a few questions:

1) Why drive?

2) Why afford Prague the same amount of time as a small village? I'd pick Prague or Vienna and get to know the city a little bit instead of picking out tourist highlights and rushing through...

TXHolmes Dec 8, 2010 10:21 pm

1. Driving - Because I am a petrol addicted American... haha, kidding. I like the flexibility having a car offers, and like seeing the countryside with the option of a detour if it strikes me. Also, my family is originally from Moravia, so driving through it (even though it is apparently mostly rolling hills and farmland) is something I've always wanted to do.

2. Devoting 2 nights to Prague, Vienna, and Hallstatt does seem a bit unequal... but we should arrive at the hotel in Hallstatt later on Monday, stay the night, see the ice cave/salt mine and the village the next day, one more sleep, then get up and drive to Vienna, arriving by noon. This is really just a "preview" trip, with the purpose mostly to get a brief feel for the places we visit and see the Christmas Markets, so when planing a future vacation, we can more effectively decide where we want to spend a longer duration to actually get to know the city... Call it speed dating for frequent vacationers.... haha.

JoostvD Dec 9, 2010 5:05 am

No, I'm sorry to say, you are not kidding. Your view of travelling sounds very familiar from others who post here.

Usually, there are several misunderstandings as part of this view. One is that driving in Europe is essentially the same as driving in the US. There are several important differences (part of the misunderstanding): road signs in Europe are completely different than in the US, written signs are in the local language (and many city names are different in different languages), driving in cities is very difficult (when it's not impossible), petrol costs are very high in Europe, some countries require you to buy a special document to drive on their roads and from the national roads you will probably take, the only "options of a detour" you will probably have are when there is road works or too many cars on the road.

There is a reason most Europeans travel by train. One of the most important reasons is that you can look out the window and enjoy the scenery, something you cannot do if you are driving a car. In the end, trains are often cheaper than cars, particularly if you buy tickets early when discounts are usually available. Trains will usually take you to the centre or near-centre of a city and have no parking costs. The chances that people in the countryside in Germany, Austria or the Czech Republic can speak English are not very good. Workers on trains in almost every country in Europe, however, can speak English.

Good luck, in any case.

charlie2025 Dec 9, 2010 7:13 am

Well I wouldn't say taking a car is so incerdibly idea, as you said. Taking train is just another, quite good option.

Anyway, pay attention, that in winter, you can easily get to some trables with snow - delays, traffic jams, etc. And can be bit dangerous sometimes. And it will be more expensive - As mentioned, fuel is more expensive, you need to pay toll when you're going on freeway. But driving is not such as crazy and with GPS quite possible. For me Los Angeles is the worst place to drive. No European city can beat that. And you have always option to go, where you want and change planes.

TXHolmes Dec 9, 2010 7:34 am

Thanks for the heads up, I think it is important to know the place names in the local languages (Praha, Wien, etcetera) but you can easily just check out Google maps to see the route options and place names, even overlay pictures with GPS tagging to see what sites await your route. Im certainly aware of the vignettes needed to drive the roads in Austria, Switzerland, etc, and after doing some basic web research that any traveler should do, know that I can usually find them at gas stations near the borders, and often at the rental car facility. I have friends who have lived in Germany and in Vienna, so I am well versed on the pros and cons of driving, I personally still chose driving.

I know well that gas will be much more expensive in Europe, but honestly that is not my primary concern.

My primary concern in posting was to see if anyone had any scenic routing recommendations, or places I shouldn't miss along the way, or restaurants that provide an interesting local perspective...

JoostvD Dec 9, 2010 8:44 am

Since this is only a "preview" trip, why don't you ask in the European Rail forum here about this same trip by rail? You have already gotten three "why drive?" responses from local people, which I hope would make you at least stop and think - maybe I should at least look into rail.

Isn't there any expression: When in Rome, do as the Romans do? Or something like that? And why shouldn't that apply to transport?

TXHolmes Dec 9, 2010 12:37 pm

Well... from my friend that lives in Vienna, and one that lives in Germany, I was told driving is just as effective, albeit more expensive, and if Europeans didn't drive why would some own cars and the autobahns be legendary? I realize that your obvious preference is rail JoostvD... but this is not mine, and my original query did not request expert opinion on transport, as I am secure in the advice I have already received. But Im glad I was able to help you boost your posting count :p

Thanks again for all your input, I think I have my itinerary prepared with input from other forums, and am looking forward to a great trip (by Plane and Car, haha)!

Merry Christmas everyone!

JoostvD Dec 10, 2010 3:28 am


Originally Posted by TXHolmes (Post 15415175)
Well... from my friend that lives in Vienna, and one that lives in Germany, I was told driving is just as effective, albeit more expensive,

These would not be countrymen of yours, by any chance?

and if Europeans didn't drive why would some own cars and the autobahns be legendary?
Isn't there a rail system in the US? Amtrack? Why would the US have it if no one used it?

I realize that your obvious preference is rail JoostvD... but this is not mine, and my original query did not request expert opinion on transport, as I am secure in the advice I have already received.
So, you are secure only with the advice that matches your preference?

I think one of the best things about travel is to learn about other cultures, not to bring my culture to their place. I'm sorry you don't feel that way.

Good luck and enjoy your trip.

allset2travel Dec 10, 2010 8:59 pm

Understand your desire to drive. Sometimes, I am that way too. When I do, I value the journey just as much as the destination.
Disclaimer: I have NOT driven in the winter. Be sure to check roaod conditions.
I did Austria 5 years ago and had covered quite a bit of ground in about 10 days. Beautiful country! Love the lakes and mountains of Austria (given my home base SFO that is close to many lakes and the Sierra). My photos do not do justice. They should give you some idea. See link:
http://stefanofoto.smugmug.com/Trave...19555984_5tpdL

Here is one suggestion for Monday (you don’t have a great deal of daylight if you pick up the car at 2pm; you won’t see much other than just driving to Hallstatt). If possible, take an early flight from London. My suggestions here assume you begin in the morning.
From Munich to Hallstatt route (230+ km, no biggie by American standard in driving):
Start Munchen – Salzburg – Fuschl am See – St Wolfgang im Salzkammergut – Bad Ischl – Hallstatt
Note the shorter day light hours, and your last leg is mountain road driving.
Munchen – Salzburg on Autobahn with possible stop in Chiemsee (do your research about it). Depends on time, you might want to sneak into old town Salzburg for a break before the drive up the mountains/lakes region. Suggested stops: Fuschl am See; St Walfgang im Salzkammergut; Bad Ischl, then Hallstatt. Photo-op 360!

I have no recollections about restaurants, sorry. I recall they were all great (apple strudel & lake trout!).

For your Wednesday drive, what I outline would be too much to do in a day. Up to you to sort them out.
Halstatt – Ebensee – Gmunden – Wels – Melk – Wien. OR if you still have day light, Try from Melk – Spitz (along the Donau) – WeiBenkirchen in der Wachau – Krems an de Donau – Wien.

Worthwhile to stop: Gmunden (for scenery), Wels (for architecture); Melk (for Stift/Abbey) – Krems (wine town).

No driving experience to share for the balance of your trip.

adventureadam Dec 11, 2010 4:22 am

The reason I asked is because these places are so well connected by the rail network, and in the winter, conditions can be hit-or-miss. Someone mentioned the pileups above, totally true.

See, for example, this incident just two years ago:


The biggest pile-up in Czech history happened on Thursday after one of the country’s busiest motorways, the D1, was blocked by more than a hundred vehicles. They crashed due to heavy snowfall. The massive pile-up trapped around 20,000 people in their cars and rescue workers consider it a miracle that nobody was killed. Still, it took more than 12 hours to clear the motorway so that people could get home.


http://www.radio.cz/en/section/curra...-czech-history
Five days later:


A near 60 vehicle pile-up in heavy snow on Austria's main east-west highway causes one death with six injuries.
Obviously you're free to do as you wish, including being dismissive and rude to those trying to give you good advice. Two days in each of these places isn't enough to see or do much of anything except see the main tourist sites. And if you're driving, one incident (even one that doesn't directly involve you), can throw off the entire plan.

adventureadam Dec 11, 2010 4:27 am

One more thing to consider: if you arrive in Munich in the afternoon, even if you're out of the airport and in your car in an hour, most of your trip will be in the dark. Have you driven in Europe before? Are you sure the Alps, in the dark, in the winter, is the best place to start?

You're getting good advice here, if you don't want to take it, cool, but no need to be insulting to those giving it. I hope you come back and post your experiences driving in Central Europe in the winter.

davida80 Dec 11, 2010 12:54 pm

I do not feel the original poster was being insulting, probably only frustrating that nobody answers the question, but instead puts down his choice of driving. Rather like answering a request for a good vegetarian restaurant by saying you need to eat meat to be healthful, that to me is insulting.

I live near Wien and know the routes well, yes there can be delay or danger on the roads, but I have also seen both on a train as well. Be vigilant and you will have a safe and enjoyable time.

While in vienna you should try the cafe central, and take in an opera, often standing room is available with same day performances.

adventureadam Dec 11, 2010 1:48 pm

Understand that david, but I think if someone comes looking for advice and the best advice is to change their plans, it's ok to say that.

In my opinion, this is too much to do in too few days. In my opinion, driving is a really bad idea...to say nothing of driving through the Alps at night in the middle of winter after getting off a plane, Prague is usually congested during the day. Parking is nearly impossible in the middle, unless the hotels offers it, in which case it will be quite expensive. If the OP insists on seeing all of these places in a short amount of time, train travel seems far preferential because it will greatly reduce stress, make things much easier, save a lot of money, and will allow him to actually interact with humans in a relaxing atmosphere instead of isolating himself in a stressful situation.

Just my opinion.

livious Dec 12, 2010 12:20 am

A bit late, but here goes:

Driving is not such a bad idea as the distances are relatively short. The train is also rather expensive, so costs for driving wll not be so high. Driving the alps is rather scenic, and I actually prefer it to the train (note:I live in Austria and do this a lot). It really depends on the weather, which is expected to be a bit warm (in Austria).

As for the itinerary, Hallstatt is a rather great place to visit, although I have only been there in summer. There is good hiking and it is really an idyllic mountain village. 2 days might be more than needed in winter. If OP skis, then the Salzkammergut is a great area for this and there are lots of winter activities IF he has the proper attire. If not, Salzburg is really close and can be done as a day trip if needed. I imagine that there is enough to occupy OP for 2 days. For restaurants, the village is small and there was not too much to chose from. Most of the better places were down by the lakefront.

As stated earlier, the bigger cities would make more sense. Vienna is worth 3 days, especially with the Christmas markets. Lots to see and do in December. Prague is doable in 2 days and I am sure OP can manage an extra day if his/her schedule changes.

Just saw the routings offered by allset2travel, and they are good ideas. Just check the weather first as driving in bad weather is not recommened, even on the Autobahns. If the weather is good, then these suggestions are good.

One last thing, there were recently several posts by abhilfe (?) about a similar itinerary, including Hallstatt. Could be worth a PM!

JoostvD Dec 12, 2010 6:32 am


Originally Posted by the_horvaths (Post 15431264)
Driving is not such a bad idea as the distances are relatively short. The train is also rather expensive, so costs for driving wll not be so high.

The train is "rather expensive"? Why do you think that? The OP could buy a rail pass to cover a five-day travel within a ten day holiday, for example, for €259 (from the German rail company). Renting a car, for five days I see costs €325 (at Hertz). And the car rental cost is only the beginning - there are parking costs, fuel costs, road-usage costs, etc. Furthermore, the train ticket is more flexible (5 travel days within ten), while the car is only for consecutive days.


Driving the alps is rather scenic, and I actually prefer it to the train (note:I live in Austria and do this a lot). It really depends on the weather, which is expected to be a bit warm (in Austria).
Warm? So, no ice on the roads even at high altitudes? And no snow in the mountains?

If this trip were proposed for summer or fall, I could understand better why someone (particularly someone who prefers driving over train) would think that car would be a good (though more expensive) alternative, especially for someone who is used to driving in Europe. However, under these circumstances, I don't at all understand this recommendation.

adventureadam Dec 12, 2010 7:12 am

The train ticket from Prague to Munich is less than two nights of parking in the center of Prague at regular rates. (Again, unless hotel covers it)

livious Dec 13, 2010 1:21 am

I did not consider a 5 day pass, sorry for that. I was going by normal prices and therefore was wrong. Either way, the OP states he is driving, so I am not sure why the train discussion is even relevant@:-) ;). (I do see your point though that the train is a good alteranative, but it is not for everyone)

As for driving, the weather has been rather good and I have not experienced any real problems with ice yet this year. I am assuming that OP is driving by day... as there would not be much to see at night and the scenic route would be rather pointless. The roads should be in good condition unless there is snow coming down. In general, Austria is a beautiful country to see by car and my experience is that you will miss quite a bit of the mountain scenery when travelling by train. As OP is from AUS, I am guessing that snowy mountains will be part of the charm and reason for driving.

If anything, maybe we can agree that dropping off the car in Vienna and then switching to the train would be a practical combination. OP would get to drive in the alps and then would get the benefits of the train (no parking and fuel costs, no driving in the cities) for the remainder of the trip.

JoostvD Dec 13, 2010 4:17 am


Originally Posted by the_horvaths (Post 15437415)
I did not consider a 5 day pass, sorry for that. I was going by normal prices and therefore was wrong. Either way, the OP states he is driving, so I am not sure why the train discussion is even relevant@:-) ;). (I do see your point though that the train is a good alteranative, but it is not for everyone)

If you think that the "normal prices" are expensive, I wonder when is the last time you looked at these prices?

You ask why there is train discussion. Someone, for example, writes he is coming to some city to visit some museum on this day. Then someone local replies: the museum is closed on that day. Would that not be helpful information for the OP? This situation is almost the same.


As for driving, the weather has been rather good and I have not experienced any real problems with ice yet this year.
Am I correct that you do not speak/read German? And that, perhaps, you are speaking only of the neighbourhood where you live?

I looked at the Austrian automobile club site. They would be quite shocked by your statement that "the weather has been rather good." Why? Well, they say that roads in the west have been closed because of "avalanche danger" and that parts of the roadway the OP will be driving from Munich is requiring snow chains because of icy spots on the very road you "have experienced no problems with ice"!



In general, Austria is a beautiful country to see by car and my experience is that you will miss quite a bit of the mountain scenery when travelling by train.
I do agree with you that Austria is a beautiful country, but a car is not the only way to see its beauty. Trains do not travel only in the ugly parts and there is also a very good bus system that travels on the same roads as the car if you need to get to a village that doesn't have train service. I have done this myself in the winter (carrying my skis) and I enjoyed the scenery and the ability to keep my eyes on the lovely scenery instead of looking only at the road for icy spots and other problems if I had driven instead of taking the bus.

livious Dec 13, 2010 6:10 am


Originally Posted by JoostvD (Post 15437801)
If you think that the "normal prices" are expensive, I wonder when is the last time you looked at these prices?

I have found that the prices through OEBB (the Austrian train site) are not competitve when not booked in advance, which would be the case for the OP. However, the 5 day pass makes this a moot point.


Originally Posted by JoostvD (Post 15437801)
Am I correct that you do not speak/read German? And that, perhaps, you are speaking only of the neighbourhood where you live?

I moved to Austria 4 years ago without being able to speak/read German and have survived. I can assure you that driving here is not very different than in other parts of the western world. If OP knows how to drive then he will not have much trouble due to language.


Originally Posted by JoostvD (Post 15437801)
I looked at the Austrian automobile club site. They would be quite shocked by your statement that "the weather has been rather good." Why? Well, they say that roads in the west have been closed because of "avalanche danger" and that parts of the roadway the OP will be driving from Munich is requiring snow chains because of icy spots on the very road you "have experienced no problems with ice"!

Well, maybe I am wrong as the update on ÖAMTC now is showing that some of the highest passes are requiring snow chains for trucks. Maybe OP will find this link helpful for weather related road closures:

http://www.oeamtc.at/index.php?type=menu&id=0280

It is in German, but the graphics show enough to get the point. Google Translate can help with the details if needed.

I realize the situation can differ for a particular region on a particular day but we just have not (yet) had the sort of weather that shuts down everything. Sure it is coming, but the mess usually comes in January. At the moment the warnings are for LKVs and for certain mountain passes, which is almost standard. They have been salting rather heavily so far and I would worry more about ice at night...hopefully OP is enjoying a drink by the fire at that point.

In my experience the trip from MUC to SZG should be no trouble as it is a well serviced autobahn. Problems might arise when leaving the autobahn for Hallstatt, but in truth bad weather would hamper any tranist (rail, bus or car) due to the location. The trip to Vienna should just depend on the weather. If it snowing, then OP should use the autobahn as they are better serviced. If the weather is fine, then then the smaller mountain roads should not be a major concern.

Maybe I am just used to driving in snow. If so, then OP should not heed my advice and I owe you an apology;):p:D.


Originally Posted by JoostvD (Post 15437801)
I do agree with you that Austria is a beautiful country, but a car is not the only way to see its beauty. Trains do not travel only in the ugly parts and there is also a very good bus system that travels on the same roads as the car if you need to get to a village that doesn't have train service. I have done this myself in the winter (carrying my skis) and I enjoyed the scenery and the ability to keep my eyes on the lovely scenery instead of looking only at the road for icy spots and other problems if I had driven instead of taking the bus.

No problems with these statements, but OP has clearly stated he will be driving and I do not see a big problem with this. Again, I would use the car to explore as much as I can and then drop in off in Vienna and switch to rails.

JoostvD Dec 13, 2010 7:32 am


Originally Posted by the_horvaths (Post 15438146)
I have found that the prices through OEBB (the Austrian train site) are not competitve when not booked in advance, which would be the case for the OP. However, the 5 day pass makes this a moot point.

Since he leaving from Germany, you might better have looked there. As another poster has already pointed out, the train fare from Germany costs less than two nights of parking in Prague (also on the OP's itinerary). So you are also wrong on the "normal prices."



I moved to Austria 4 years ago without being able to speak/read German and have survived. I can assure you that driving here is not very different than in other parts of the western world. If OP knows how to drive then he will not have much trouble due to language.
Again, you are oversimplifying. "driving here is not very different than other parts of the western world" In the Netherlands, we have no mountains and only a few hills. I would say that the driving here is very different from the driving in Austria (or Switzerland or southern Germany). Language may not be a problem for driving, but because Europe has different road signs than the US, unless he learns them before he leaves, he will indeed have problems.



Well, maybe I am wrong as the update on ÖAMTC now is showing that some of the highest passes are requiring snow chains for trucks. Maybe OP will find this link helpful for weather related road closures:

http://www.oeamtc.at/index.php?type=menu&id=0280
Yes, you are again wrong. And when I look at the automobile site, it shows the icy areas are not only in the "highest passes" but also on flat ground west of Vienna, as well as several other areas the OP must drive through.


I realize the situation can differ for a particular region on a particular day but we just have not (yet) had the sort of weather that shuts down everything. Sure it is coming, but the mess usually comes in January. At the moment the warnings are for LKVs and for certain mountain passes, which is almost standard. They have been salting rather heavily so far and I would worry more about ice at night...hopefully OP is enjoying a drink by the fire at that point.
Your description of the driving situation simply does not match the report from the Austrian auto club. Yes, not everything is closed, but neither is it a simple matter for an inexperienced foreign driver.


In my experience the trip from MUC to SZG should be no trouble as it is a well serviced autobahn. Problems might arise when leaving the autobahn for Hallstatt, but in truth bad weather would hamper any tranist (rail, bus or car) due to the location.
Ah, but the difference is that the trains and buses are driven by professional, experienced local people, not foreigners who may not even know what the road signs mean and probably will not be able to read emergency messages.


Maybe I am just used to driving in snow. If so, then OP should not heed my advice and I owe you an apology;):p:D.
It is not only that you may be used to driving in snow, it is that you make statements that turn out to be not accurate (costs of train travel, road conditions, etc.). Even though the OP has been very rude, I'm sure none of us would like to see him in a serious accident. That is why it is better to give more careful advice and not just say "oh everything will be fine."

As I've said before, in good summer or autumn weather, this would be a completely different question. But, in winter, with stressful conditions and a foreign driver inexperienced with local conditions, I see this as a big mistake.

livious Dec 13, 2010 8:10 am

I do not agree that OP was ever rude, he just was not asking for a lecture about why trains are superior. You have definietly extolled the virtues of the train, but I think we have both taken the topic OT. Despite all of your sage advice (and my horrible errors) the OP is still driving nonetheless.

I get the train option, and yet everyone in Austria seems to survive fine despite the horrible driving conditions:rolleyes:. Well, time for me to head home now. Hope I can manage my terrible drive home.

JoostvD Dec 13, 2010 8:29 am

Well, perhaps if you commuted by train...

The OP wrote "looking forward to a great trip (by Plane and Car, haha)!" I and others consider that rude.

livious Dec 13, 2010 8:39 am


Originally Posted by JoostvD (Post 15438859)
Well, perhaps if you commuted by train...

The OP wrote "looking forward to a great trip (by Plane and Car, haha)!" I and others consider that rude.

Normally I walk:D. The train would actually take too long:p.

I guess I did not read that "haha" the same way as he also used the "haha" in other posts without that connotation. But I can see your point. Either way, we have gone OT long enough now and will probably not make any headway on the issues of trains vs. cars. Hopefully OP has a safe and enjoyable trip.

JoostvD Dec 13, 2010 10:25 am

I will just conclude to say that you are a much kinder and reasonable person than the OP. If you are going to stay in Europe, I would suggest that you try to adopt yourself more to the life here. I think (and hope) you will enjoy yourself more.

Helena Handbaskets Dec 13, 2010 11:54 am

In Hallstatt the salt mine is worth a visit. Like most things in and near Hallstatt, it's better in the summer when you may also like to take the trail along the sites of the prehistoric graves, and to hike back down to town through the forest, or to have lunch on the terrace of the MartinsTurm restaurant overlooking the lake. In summer you may also want to visit the Dachstein ice caves and/or take the gondola up to the top station. In winte you can also ski from the top station, but I think there are better options if your objective is skiing. I also find the Gosausee to be well worth a visit in the summer. To see the ice caves or the Gosausee you will want a car rather than rely on the train, as other options eat up too much time.

In summer or winter, make sure you visit the souvenir/sports shop that's just down the road from the Heritage Hotel, which includes excavated Roman ruins downstairs - a feature I have yet to find in any other sports apparel shop to date.

Also make sure you walk north about a 1/4 mile from the Heritage hotel on the main road, to the spot where all the postcard photos of Hallstatt are made.

For your lengthier visit to Hallstatt (in the summer), you'll want to include a stop in Salzburg for at least a day or two.

I've made four visits to Hallstatt, and have driven there each time. Train connections are not as friendly to/from Hallstatt, and the penalties imposed by cities (traffic, navigation, parking) are not as severe, and bus/taxi options are more sparse. Even so, if you're like me, you will find yourself inventing reasons to take the train to/from Hallstatt once you arrive, just for the sheer romance of using a rail depot that sits alone on the other side of the lake from the town, requiring a short boat ride across the lake for each arrival and departure.

Which brings me to the number one activity not to miss in Hallstatt (in my opinion): Sit on a balcony facing the lake and wait for the train to snake its way along the opposite shore, disapearing in the trees to stop at the Hallstatt station, and then continuing on to the next town. Watch the boat bring two or three travelers across the lake. Continue to sit on the balcony for 30-90 minutes or so, when the boat will depart Hallstatt with a couple of passengers bound for the train station. After it docks, the train will return from its previous direction, and the boat will come back again with a couple more passengers. It's like a minature train set writ large, and is about the most peaceful thing I can imagine. It's the image I conjure in my mind when I want to diffuse stress. You can watch this scene from the warm side of a window in the winter, but it's better when you are more fully surrounded by the magnificent landscape.

I drove in Vienna once, when I was young and naive, and would not recommend it.

In Vienna, if you're a fan of classical music, and have a companion, go to one of the Strauss dance/concerts they hold regularly at various venues. And/or a more formal concert - but I enjoyed the Strauss dance / concert better. For a fan of classical music it can also be a less-well-promoted-to-tourists treat to go out to the little town (suburb?) called Heiligenstadt, where there are two of Beethoven's residences, including the one where his landlord's knock on the door for overdue rent supposedly was the inspiration for the opening theme of the 5th symphony. Sadly, the theater where Beethoven's 9th symphony premiered - and where the concertmaster had to turn Beethoven (who was deaf by then) around at the end of the performance to see the madly cheering crowd - was either no longer there or was not open when I was there. In warmer weather, you can also go to "composer's corner" in the main cemetery and make a grave rubbing on the marker for your favorite Viennese composer (not Beethoven, though - his grave is there but his marker is not amenable to rubbing. And not Mozart, either, as his grave is unknown). Also in Vienna the history museum contains many of the more interesting prehistoric finds from Hallstatt, as well as the Venus of Willendorf, if you're into that kind of thing. And if you like Gustav Klimt's paintings (how can you not?), Vienna is the place to see the largest public collection of them. You should not miss the chance to have a coffee at a Vienna cafe, and perhaps a slice of Sacher Torte, although I personally prefer the Linzer Torte.

TXHolmes Dec 14, 2010 10:52 am

Thanks to everyone who offered advice on things to see and do, and routing options/experiences. And to everyone who has taken offense at my statements, I am not sure why offense was taken... I was simply trying to get the thread back on track to my original question, if you wish to talk about trains, I think there is an entire section concerning them... my choice to drive does not mean I think trains are a bad choice, just not what I wanted for this trip. I did not wish for my thread to become derailed (no pun intended) from my original intent which was things to see and do, not method of transport or costs thereof.

Just an update, we flew into Munich and found that Hertz had upgraded us to an Audi A6 quattro, quite nice, with integrated GPS... the Autobahn from Munich to Salzburg was amazing, super smooth, with a tremendous amount of traffic but you would never know because it moved so smoothly (much smoother than in the US). Each city or area had a brown sign for its exit noting the sights offered. In addition to stopping in a few small villages when we saw an interesting spire, we stopped in Abdenauer along the way and did a bit of shopping, and after finding that the salt mine was closed today (monday) decided to hop in the car, turn on the heated seats and drive to Obertraun and toured the amazing scenery a bit further (which is why I wanted to drive in the first place). The alps truly are beautiful beyond any picture... driving in the alps was similar to driving in the Rockies in the US or Canada, but I dare say more beautiful.

We did see the train as Helena (not female or from Montana, haha) suggested, which was very beautiful as it hugged the opposite coast of Hallstattersee. Although it is winter, we bundled up in our scarves and coats, sipping Gluhwein as the snow gently fell and clung to every surface it touched... we made the hike up to the vantage point of the salt mine as the funicular was closed, which worked up an appetite for the awesome schnitzel vom kalb and porcini ravioli at Gutenbraun (spelling?). Today we also visited the museum, and ancient roman bath ruins discovered under the sport shoppe, and have walked just about every street, and visited every shop that would have us, haha. While Hallstatt has been exactly what I wanted, covered in snow and glittering with lighted trees in the churches and the square, and evergreen boughs on every doorframe, I do want to return in the summer.


So tomorrow we leave for Vienna where the car will be parked by the Hotel for two days while we enjoy the city.

Thanks again to everyone who offered advice!

livious Dec 14, 2010 12:31 pm

Glad to hear that things worked out and you are enjoying your trip. Hope the trip to Vienna is safe and that you can enjoy some more gluhwein. The Christmas markets are wonderful there!

mattarse Dec 16, 2010 4:19 am

Hope your enjoying the drive - and if not too late here's a link for Czech road closures/construction etc:

http://dopravniinfo.cz

Coming from Vienna you will probably stick to the highways so there shouldn't be any problems but not bad to have an idea of what's in front of you.

Not sure if the Hilton Old town has parking or not, but if not be careful to watch for blue lines when parking on the street. This indicates the parking requires a permit (and as a visitor you cannot buy one, restricted for residents), but I'm sure the Hilton can advise on where to park.

I love driving vacations as well - trains etc have there place but sometimes the drive is the vacation.

Cheers,
Matthew

mattarse Dec 16, 2010 4:20 am

Also for Christmas markets in Prague - I like the one at Jiriho Z Podebrad (metro stop) normally although I haven't stopped in this year - otherwise they are all over the city.

Matthew

pbiflyer Dec 16, 2010 9:48 am

Prague: Take on of the free walking tours (tip essentially required) Great way to get an overview of the city. Jewish Quarter was interesting.

adventureadam Dec 19, 2010 11:12 am

Was travel affected by the weather?

TXHolmes Dec 21, 2010 11:56 am

Thanks so much for all the tips... I will definitely be back to do a similar trip next Christmas season. We are safe and sound back in Austin, had an amazing time.

Continuing on from my earlier update after driving Munich to Hallstatt, which was awesome, we continued on to Vienna, another enjoyable drive, did not take as many detours, just wanted to get to Wien as quickly as possible to enjoy the city. The driving again was amazing, I am so impressed with the German/Austrian/Swiss road system and drivers... when I got back to Texas driving on Interstate 35 was like a nightmare... haha.

So driving into the center of Wien was not terrible, Id much sooner drive into zone 1 of Wien than drive in Manhattan (which I have had the unfortunate experience of doing). We took the car to the Hotel Imperial, who parked it for us during our stay. Vienna is truly an amazing city, so much history, so much art, architechture and grandeur at every corner... we went to the Markt at Mariatheresenplatz, had some dumplings and Punsch, got a few nice original charcoals of the statue of Maria Theresa. Also went to markets at the Rathaus, Stephenplatz, and others scattered throughout the city. I think my favorite was the markt at Mariatheresenplatz because of the small more local feel... Went shopping in the gallerien and along the streets within the inner ring, got some awesome china at Augarten.

Our favorite restaurant meal was at a place called Kardos, the gulaschtrilogie was interesting, and the zweibelrostbraten was the best meal I had in Europe.

For those renting cars in germany (from hertz at least) intending to drive into the Czech republic, Hungary or other Eastern european countries... be careful to check the car type restrictions and make sure your car can enter all the places you want to go. Our Audi was forbidden from entering the Czech republic or Hungary, as were mercedes and BMW vehicles... So we took a train from Wien to Brno, which was fine leaving vienna, but the station in Brno was extremely busy, hard to navigate, and frigidly cold with nowhere to sit when our return train was delayed by 2 hours... the ride also took over two hours, when driving would have taken less than one per many locals we spoke to. It was an interesting way to see the countryside, and at least we did get to visit Brno, freedom square, the cathedral of peter and paul...

Due to our car being forbidden from entering eastern Europe, we made a last minute itinerary change after visiting Brno and deciding not to continue on to prague via train... we returned to Vienna where our car was garaged, and drove back through Salzburg to Innsbruck, checking out several interesting christmas markets in each, and some of the most amazing scenery I have ever seen. We then drove to Schwangau and saw Neuschwanstein, which was amazing, then drove into Munich for our final day/night. In Munich we visited several more markets, which in my opinion had more variety than any we had seen... While each cities markets offered many items of interest, in Brno the most common items were ceramics or pottery, in Vienna and Salzburg the most common item was carved wooden christmas tree ornaments, and in Munich there was a much wider variety of things at the markets... while each city had its own distinct feel which was charming, munich seemed to offer the most variety, with the biggest market we visited being at Marienplatz. We had a quick supper at Tivoli, in the Hilton Park hotel, and the rest of our time in Munich ate Bratwurst and Saurkraut, and lots of other things at the markets...

Our return travel was only slightly affected, a Lufthansa first class agent was able to get us on the MUC-FRA flight scheduled for 8AM (which didnt leave until 11AM) but our schedule 10:55 departure was cancelled, so if not for her we would not have made our connection in Frankfurt to Houston. The road travel was never much affected by the weather, as it seems there are constantly graters and salt trucks clearing the roads, and we were lucky in our air travels not to meet any major delays. All said, we had an amazing time even though I was disappointed to have to cancel Prague for this trip, and will definitely be back in Europe for another tour, only will make sure the car we get can enter all the countries we wish to visit, haha.


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