As a (non-German) avid reader of Mr.Siebeck, some comments on him:

He is a very big francophile and moderate anglophile and has been very consistent in critizising general attitudes towards fine dining in Germany and especially the quality of ingredients and chefs alike. He shares a passion for traditional London eateries like Rules and Simpsons-in-the-Strand with many FT'ers and has according to what I understand enjoyed dining at upcoming English/British chefs tremendously. But that doesn't mean he would be blind to hype or afraid to bust even the number one star chef if he feels it's justified.

And c'mon, what's so British about Chelsea or Toyota plants in the Midlands anyway. ;)

Siebeck is always ironic and/or sarcastic in his articles... even arrogant..! That's his (writing) style.
It looks like he is not a friend of this "new molecular .. chemist cooking". He actually liked some of the creations, however, the portions are too small.

Back to the topic:

I guess everybody has a list of "best restaurants". I personally find the food in most of the 3-star restaurants a "little complicated". I still have very good remembrance on some 1-star or no-star restaurants.

I recently had (fresh, white) Navarre asparagus with sauce Hollandaise in a no-star restaurant.... Or a Loup de mer with a great (whitish, creamy) sauce in La Wantzenau (near Strasbourg). I also remember "Union Square Café" in NYC well.
..and I can still remember the bland test of the 3-star "Au Crocodile" in Strasbourg; now only 2-stars .. what an embarrassment for the chef

Just to point out, one of the judges had two places in the top 10. That sort of sends, a red flag, well, more of a star flare really, up for me.

One place I am really glad to see on there with a high ranking is St. John. I think it is a wonderful place with really creative cooking. 10th best in the world, probably not but really fantastic. I would also put Chutney Mary ahead of say Angela Hartnett as far as London restaurants go.

Torta??

Guess not too many people have that story... And, fellow esteemed Chowhounder, you are ??? Funny how food & travel are so intertwined!

Two cents from a "Fodorite"...
 

It's been five years since I wa there, but this was on several top lists of restaurants in Europe...

Schwarzwaldstube, in Kur & Sporthotel Traube Tonbach, Tonbachstrasse 237, Baiersbronn

And there are consistent opinions on Fodors that Enoteca Pichiorri (Florence) is way, way past its prime. Especially for its indifferent service.

Best wishes,

Rex Bickers
Floyds Knobs, Indiana
from Fodors.com "Travel Talk" (Europe)

Lists like these are always going to be a bit absurd. I had dinner at Tetsuya's about a week ago and it was wonderful. Not 4th best in the world, but wonderful. The overall experience at the Inn at Little Washington back in December from start to finish was a bit better, though the food at Tetsuya's really was outstanding.

I echo the favorable comments about Le Bernardin above, it hasn't made some of the top lists recently but holds a very high place in my heart as one of my absolute favorites. My take may be a bit skewed, though, because it was the first true fine dining restaurant I went to as an adult after college outside of dinners for business.

Any list that places Jean Georges in the top 10 restuarants loses all credibility on the spot. With all due respect to the chef, he has clearly reched that point in his career where he just wants to open up restaurants and make money and the cooking has clearly suffered. As I find with most restaurants in NYC, once they make it they tend to just mail it in as there are few reasons to work as hard, this is what has happened over at Daniel, and the struggle against this is why Le Bernadin has remained so strong.

I found the French Laundry disappointing:

- No wine pairings are offered
- When I requested a glass of Champagne the sommelier did not identify what he was pouring, let alone offer me a choice
- The salmon tartare my husband ordered came to the table still partially frozen...on purpose, it was explained, because otherwise it couldn't hold its presentation
- Diners are expected to order each of their multi courses at the beginning of the meal...no exceptions, not even for dessert!
- I won't even mention the torture of getting a reservation

While in most cases my complaints could be considered petty I think a restaurant that presents itself as perfection should deliver on it. Plus the service people all whisper when speaking to the table...a little too precious for me.

Paula_Miller:
I wouldn't call your complaints petty. O.K., wouldn't care, if they don't offer wine pairings ... but all other complains are valid. I wouldn't expect such mishaps in a first class restaurant. You should send Thomas Keller a letter with your complaints, copy to Ruth Reichl :cool:

Indeed, when I asked my waiter at Tetsuya's if mrs. gleff and I could see the kitchen last month, he replied "Of course, whatever you'd like, it's your night."

True service means accomodating preferences and requests of guests, rather than sticking to and forcing your own routine on guests.

Granted, my request at Tetsuya's was simple, but the response was "of course!" It wasn't "let me see" or worse "let me see" (never to be spoken of/responded to again).

If you'd like wines paired with your meal, and that isn't part of a restaurant's usual offerings, a fine establishment should arrange that for you.

If you are asked to order all courses up front, but express a preference to wait to order dessert, again a fine establishment will accomodate that preference. (A key, though, is that if you have such a preference is does need to be expressed.)

As for the frozen salmon, I would expect the waiter's response when asked to be something like "It's one of the chef's interesting presentations and many of our guests enjoy it. If you'd like to try it and don't like it, I'd be happy to bring you something else instead. Would you like try it, or can I offer you perhaps X or Y?"

I don't expect this everywhere, but a place of the caliber of the French Laundry I certainly do. At their price point there are plenty of restaurants that will offer such service.

That is exactly right gleff. The things that have really struck me about places like Le Bernadin and Taillevent have been the complete customer service. Le Bernardin was probably the first restaurant of that class I had been in. We had some desert wine left at the end of dinner and as the maitre de was walking by I asked if we could maybe have some blue cheese to go with it. It wasnt on the menu but I figured they must have it. He nodded so imperceptably I wasnt sure he heard or understood and then continued walking towards the kitchen. Seconds after he entered, someone came out with plates for our table, then very shortly later some really good roquefort and bread. We later asked what time they were closing since we noticed it was late and he told us they had closed the front door an hour ago but the staff were there with all of the guests as long as they wanted to stay.

Likewise at Taillevent on numerous occassions they have offered to change something on the menu or combine things. On one occassion after reciting the deserts and seeing we were having a hard time deciding, the maitre de asked if I liked chocolate. When I replied yes (enthusiastically) he said he would have them prepare a sampler of all of their chocolate based deserts for me. I really expect that kind of service. In fact I demand it at those prices.

Planning on trying to get a reservation at Per Se in early August, I hope it is as good as I have heard from a variety of sources and that the above mentioned French Laundry experience was an anomaly.

There is this Scotish restaurant, McSomething. Can't remember. Anyway, it's in most cities. They sell quick meals. Find it hard to believe that they didn't make this list.

The original list is very Brit-centric. I would question the whole list based on some of the choices on it.

I have eaten in about 10 of the 50 on the list, and found them mostly excellent, but some I found better are not on the list.

To each, their own! :p

I echo your sentiments. Le Bernardin is in a league of its own, like Taillevent, and keeps getting better after each visit. A couple weeks ago I went to Gordon Ramsay's Royal Hospital Road for lunch with my Mum and we were not too impressed. Definitely not 3 star calibre. Shortly thereafter, in Paris we went to L'Angle du Faubourg (1 macaron), Taillevent and Le Cinq. L'Angle du Faubourg blew the socks off of Ramsay's and Taillevent and Le Cinq were simply sublime. My Mum, an virtually impossible to please woman, adores Taillevent and asked when we were returning!!

It is a pity about Vongerichten how the quality of food has slipped. I am alarmed to hear rumblings that Boulud is heading the same way. Of course, this seems de rigeur for most multi Michelin starred chefs, like Gordon Ramsay and Alain Ducasse.