Backpacking & Camping in Denali
 

I am thinking, with some friends, to go backpacking and camping into the Denali National Park backcountry. I have been told there is a train from Anchorage to the park entrance and upon registering etc. one takes a twice-daily bus deep into the park wilderness.

Is there anybody who has had experience with this? Could you provide suggestions and possibly share experiences? And finally, how much time should be budgeted? I imagine I could spend weeks just wondering around...

Any help is appreciated! :)

If you plan to go this summer, you should consider making your reservations now. You need reservations for the bus and campsites. Backcountry permits are issued when your group shows up. The number of humans in each unit (the park is divided into 40-ish zones, called "units") is tightly controlled. You can't just show up and head in to the woods for a few weeks without a permit, the place is crawling with rangers (very inobtrusive, you won't even know that they are there) who will issue you a hefty fine and boot you out of the park if you don't have permit or are camping out of your zone. Permits are issued for specific units in the park, so depending on where your permit is, that's where you start your trip. Plan several trips based on the different park units since you won't be assigned a unit until you get there. The backcountry is fantastic, but it's pretty rough, there are no trails (other than game trails) so it's hard to cover a lot of ground quickly, we had a hard time covering 5 miles (with big packs) in a day (we are used to covering much, much, more) because of the terrain-- lots of bushwacking and dead ends. There are also lots of bears so make sure you have bear-proof food containers and know how to use them. If you can't get a campsite reservation, you can always camp in the "walk in" campsites by the park entrance (or at a commercial campsite outside park boundaries) and day trip into the park using the bus system.

The bus system is pretty cool, you can get on and off the bus pretty much wherever you want so you can cover a lot of terrain in a relative short period of time. The bus goes all the way to Wonder Lake (I think) which is ~80 miles from the park entrance. A bus leaves the visitors center every 15 minutes or so heading for different stops along the road, there are only a few buses a day that go all the way to Wonder Lake (it's an ~8 hour trip each way). However, the bus is NOT all that comfortable-- converted yellow schoolbusses with questionable shock absorbers. The park wildlife seem to be quite acclimated to the bus and don't run off when they hear it, so you can see a lot of critters. If you see something particularly nifty, you can get off the bus and wander for a few hours and then catch the next bus that comes along. Don't discount the bus, lots of hard core hikers take it, not just sightseers and kids.

The amount of time you decide to spend in the park depends on where you want to camp-- I think campsites are limited to 14 days and backcountry permits are limited to 30 days. There is a small general store at the park entrance and some outdoor gear stores in glitter gulch, but its not easy to resupply once you're deep in the tundra, and most mortals are unhappy carrying 30 days of food on their backs. You can leave extra food in lockers at the campgrounds. If you want to spend a lot of time in the park, maybe break it up into 2 or 3 shorter trips so you can come out and get more food and a hot shower, or try to intersperse your backcountry time with some campsite time.

Have a great time if you decide to go!

Wow! Thanks for the really fast and imformative response! Now I have even more questions... (a good thing)

Are there more popular and/or scenic units? Can one request specific ones, or is their assignment a truly random process?

I'm going partly as an amateur (or pretend) photographer, so having interesting things to see would be a big plus (and spectacular, religious-experience type vistas would be nice :p). So any recommendations for areas of the park that would be good?

And can one make reservations in advance, and cancel should the trip fall through?

If the bushwacking ever a problem? I don't want to spend the whole day wacking away, but certainly expect to do some (indeed, it makes it all seem more remote).

I understood that these are issued by the park itself. Correct?

Bit confused about the difference between campsite reservations and "unit" permits. If I make my reservations now, what exactly will I be reserving?

These campsites... are they developed areas with (basic) bacilities? Or just bare spots designated as places to pitch a tent?

Do most people set up camp and then just wander around, without breaking camp? Or do people also hike every day to a new site?

This is what makes me think the campsites are more developed.

And final question... do you come accross a lot of people? Or is it really the wilderness?

I'd like to one day climb McKinley... but will leave that for another time.

Hi Schmeck--

I haven't been to Denali in ~2 years, so things may have changed. But I'll do my best.

If you want to stay in the park, you have two options: first, to stay in a campsite and second, to stay in the backcountry. The campsites have some facilities, I think they have running water and some sort of toilet facility. The campsites hold between ~7 and ~30 tents but are pretty spread out so you're not camping on top of your neighbor. If you want a campsite, you have to reserve it (and pay for it), and you can leave your tent there for up to 2 weeks and hike around during the day. The backcountry permits are free, but true wildnerness. No maintained trails or campsites, and they are first come-first served, no reservations accepted.

In the backcountry, it is unlikely that you will see another human. Even on a maintained trail, you probably won't see anyone. It's a real hassle to get in to/around the park, but it really helps to preserve the wilderness feel.

1. You can pick a unit but you can't reserve it in advance. If your unit is full, you can usually pick from whatever is open. There are really no "bad" units, they are all HUGE and have a wide variety of wildlife and terrain. If you can find out where the caribou are (they tend to migrate around the park), that would be good for photography. I saw a pack of wolves try to take down a caribou once. That was fascinating... and disturbing (winner=caribou).

2. If you want truly outstanding scenery, pray for good weather. The weather is often cloudy, but when the sun comes out, it's magnificent. I think for photography, you should consider the bus-- it stops at the most scenic places. If you see a vista you really like, stay at that stop until the light is to your liking, and then hop on the next bus to the next scenic overlook. But the bus is definitely the fastest way to see a lot of the park.

3. If you reserve a campsite and change your mind, I think you're only out the ~$5 reservation fee. But this might have changed.

4. The bushwacking thing is inevitable in the backcountry. There are TONS of marked and maintained trails (still hiking trails, they're not paved pedestrian superhighways or anything) if you're not so into suffering. There are always game trails through the brush which are interesting (caribou are lousy civic planners). If you find yourself in a unit that does not have thick trees/bushes, you will probably be hiking on tundra which has really interesting (and fragile) ground cover. It is also squishy and uneven. Either way, it is a struggle (but a good one).

5. Not sure about the bear containers. Sorry.

6. Denali-bound climbers usually fly into basecamp from a small town called Talkeetna. If you take the train or bus from Anchorage, you'll probably stop there. Its a little "old west" style town. There are several tour companies that offer flight-seeing tours in Talkeetna and most will fly you over Denali basecamp if you're interested. Very $$$ but fun. Getting to the base of Denali on foot from Denali park is attempted only by true maniacs.

Cheers.

Thanks again for the info. Seems much more intense than I imagined (in terms of planning anyway). I am used mostly to hiking and mountaineering in Washington State (Olympic Peninsula, Cascades, Alpine Lakes) and down into some parts of California.

Will have to digest and do some more of my own research. But this is a fantastic start! Thanks! Will get back with more of my inevitable questions...

Bears
 

You will also want to avoid being mauled by a grizzly bear when in the back country.

There is a book, I think called When Bears Attack or Bear's Attack. Not really sure of the name. It has two volumes now and it is a series of first person naratives (if they survived) or rescue team narratives of people getting attacked by bears in Alaska. Good reading on the plane, and you will learn what not to do.

Do not go near bears period but especially if it is a mom and baby or a bear that is eating or stashing its kill. Most people were hunting in thick brush and came right on top of either eating bear or mom and cub. Or they shot an animal, bear is watching, and bear wants animal. I think bear wins.

Now if you see them, their behavior reminds me of dogs. I have watched them for many hours clamming on a beach. One time while in an outhouse, one walked about 10 feet away on the way to the beach. Did not even notice me.

Buy a MILEPOST.
 

It is a fantastic guide to all things Alaskan. www.milepost.com or your favorite book store. I spent quite a bit of time in the Denali area (there is both a state park and a national park). Most people see only a tiny bit of either. Used to be you could get around with fewer rules. We had more scares with moose than with bears, but follow the rules for both. If you see a mother moose with calf.....don't mess with her. She can get upset very easily. Be prepared to be wet, cold and more wet. Remember that there are no tall trees nor big shrubs so 'bushwacking' isn't the same as in a jungle. Glad I visited when I did.

Chococat has given you quite a bit of good info. Ill add a few thoughts from my own experience.
Yes, some units are better than others. The best ones are near the middle of the park road, where you're above treeline in open tundra. When the weather's good, the vistas and views of the mountain can be jaw-droppingly gorgeous. However, these units are the most popular, and you'll probably have to wait for them. The units out near Wonder Lake are usually open, but the terrain is low-lying muskeg, wet and can be extremely buggy.
Group size can also be a problem. Some of the units are only open to 6 or 8 people per night, and if there are four or more of you, getting all of you into one of those units will be a real problem.
The bear-proof containers are available at the visitor center, and are required for all backcountry campers. As far as I know they're still free, though.
If you can't get into the backcountry there, you can always backpack at Denali State Park (www.dnr.state.ak.us/parks/units/denali1.htm) The Kesugi Ridge hike is wonderful, and also offers great views of Mt. McKinley (on good days).
Hope this helps. I'm in Anchorage, have visited the park about 20 times or so, so if you have more questions, drop me an e-mail at [email protected]- I don't visit this site all that often. Good luck with the plans.

-Tom-

It appears from the posts of Seat2A that he works for the parks or at least is very familiar with them. You should PM him.

Indeed he does work there. I think he is back in USA by now (he was over in New Zealand a couple of weeks ago on another trip). I've PM'ed him the link.

You called?

Yes indeed, I drive those green shuttle busses into the park. For starters though, I'd like to say that overall, tgreale and chococat have offered very good advice regarding how to go about camping in the Denali backcountry. Let me clarify a couple of points...

The difference between campgrounds and backcountry units is that campgrounds are improved, numbered campsites. The backcountry is raw wilderness. Also, campgrounds can be booked in advance whereas backcountry units cannot be booked until you arrive in the park. You sound like you'd prefer getting out into the backcountry, so I would suggest avoiding the large developed campgrounds on the east end of the park (Riley Creek, Savage River and Teklanika) as they all cater to people with cars or motorhomes.

Some people like to "base camp" at the smaller Sanctuary River Campground (7 sites ~ walk, bike or bus in only) and then use the bus to get around the park for day hikes. Others will go all the way out to Wonder Lake Campground (Mile 86) where the same situations apply. Remember, busses will stop and pick you up or drop you off anywhere along the park road.

I think Wonder Lake Campground can be fun for a day or two because it provides a spectacular view of Denali (6,194 m or 20,320 ft) if it's out, which it often is in the early morning hours. Also, there is a well marked trail down to the McKinley Bar (River) and you can fish for Mackinaw and Grayling from Wonder Lake without need of an Alaska State fishing license. On the downside, Wonder Lake can also be VERY buggy in June and July. The purchase of a mosquito headnet is a good idea.

Again, think of these two campgrounds as base camps for smaller day hikes around the park. Your camper bus ticket is good for 2 weeks of unlimited travel inside the park. However, once you come back out to the east end (The train, stores, visitor center, etc), even if you've spent less than 2 weeks in the park, your ticket is then expired. To return to the park, you'll need to buy another ticket.

Here's a good link for campground reservations


As for the back country, sections 8-13 are the most popular, and for good reason. Spectacular backcountry scenery. I could go into more detail here but honestly, after spending a couple hours around the Visitor Center and/or talking with other hikers you'll have met either in the park or before you get there, you'll have plenty of good ideas for hikes. Here's a good book about hikes in Denali:

Denali National Park: Guide to Hiking, Photography, & Camping

Here's a map of the backcountry units.

Click on each unit for more information about it.



Here's a thought: Why not take two or three days staying at Sanctuary Campground (Mile 22), and then use the bus system to day hike and have a look around the park to see what looks good for longer hikes. Bring your map and feel free to ask the drivers questions along the way. Be careful around Dick Merrill though... :D

If you do plan to go into the backcountry for extended hikes, as was mentioned earlier you'll need to get permits, easily accomplished at the backcountry desk at the Wilderness Access Center. Unlike campground reservations, these are not issued in advance. Remember though, the more popular units do fill up fast. Be sure to get a good topographical map of the park. These are easily purchased in the park or in Anchorage or Fairbanks.

During peak season (approximately June 25 - August 7th) busses leave the Wilderness Access Center about every 30 minutes between 5:30am and 2:00pm. Most busses go to Fish Creek (Mile 63) (Eielson Visitor Center is closed for reconstruction) though there are also busses to Wonder Lake, Kantishna and Toklat. There are also some later camper busses that go out to Wonder Lake for the night and return the next morning. Don't worry about schedules now. Most camper busses have plenty of space.

If you intend to camp in the park, your FIRST bus trip from the Wilderness Access Center must be aboard a Camper Bus. These busses have a few seats removed in the back to make more room for backpacks, etc. There are six daily camper busses during peak season, but maybe another will be added this year. Once you are already out in the park and want to ride a bus, any shuttle bus - even non camper busses - can pick you up if they have space.

Again, don't worry about memorizing all this stuff now. It'll all make plenty of sense once you get to the park and it's all right in front of you. For more information on the shuttle busses, check out this link.



Here's another page with some more good links about the park.


As for bears, yes, they can be encountered any time in the park. That said, nobody has ever been killed by a bear in Denali National Park and over the past fifteen years, we've had about a half dozen cases where bear-human contact resulted in injury. Weigh this against the fact that literally thousands of visitors head into the Denali backcountry every year.

I could go into more detail here about bear safety but you'll learn everything you need to know once you arrive. Mainly, bear safety is all about common sense. Again, you'll learn all you need to know once you get here. I will say that an integral part of avoiding negative bear encounters is the bear proof food container. These are mandatory for all backcountry campers and the park service is happy to provide you with them. However, they also want them back - i.e. they're not a gift or souvenir.

Here's a little more info. on bear safety.


Finally, I think the best time to visit the park weatherwise is from about June 15th to July 15th. Yes, some years are rainy and others not so rainy, but that period seems to be the best and of course it also offers the most daylight.

P.S. I've noticed that a couple of the nps links don't load so well. If at first it comes up unable, just hit REFRESH and it should do fine.

Seat 2A--thanks so much!
 

what a wonderful post!

Not only does Seat 2Aknow alot about Denali, he writes fabulous Trip Reports too ^ ...brilliant help for the OP to put their stay on the right track (no pun intended). Ggolly, they could be lucky enough to get on your bus if you're working at the time they're in Denali ;).

My friends and I just got back from an amazing trip to Denali. We encountered Dick Merrill - were we not careful enough?

Why should we have tried to "be careful" around Dick Merrill? We are enchanted with one Dick Merrill. We speak of Dick Merrill often, and with much love. Please, anyone who has any further information on the illustrious Dick Merrill, share. We were directed to this website by Googling our beloved "Dick Merrill".

Any further information about Dick Merrill please let us know. We'll return often, and with loving memories of our time with Dick Merrill.