judolphin

We've been researching this for days and haven't been able to find the information we're looking for. Any help is appreciated!

My wife and I are going to Alaska for a (much too) short trip in August, arriving 9 PM on a Thursday to ANC and leaving 12:30 AM Monday morning. Hope to go back for a longer trip to AK in the future, but we found a 25,000 mile redemption, grabbed it, and are determined to make it work the best we can.

We will have a rental car. The question: for such a short trip, is there a compelling reason drive the extra 5-6 hours round to Denali National Park rather than Denali State Park?

We are aware of the general differences between State Parks and National Parks -- just wanted some opinions from people who have been to both.

Thanks for your help, and I apologize if I missed a previous thread that touches on this question.

ChugiakAk

Absolutely go to Denali National Park. It is one of the gems of Alaska and well worth a visit. Be sure to take the shuttle bus into the park at least to Eielson Visitor Center. With luck, you'll see wildlife and perhaps the mountain itself.

Since you have a car, you can find some great accommodations in the town of Healy, located about 15 minutes north of the main tourist area. For more on Denali, check out the national park website at www.nps.gov/dena/

judolphin

Thank you for the quick reply. I was hoping we wouldn't miss anything at DSP, but figured that wouldn't be the case. We just got a shuttle bus for Saturday to Eielson VC. We're really excited about the trip!

ChugiakAk

Great! Denali is a very special place and the bus trip is one of the great experiences in Alaska. No promises on animals or seeing the mountain though. I've had trips where I've seen grizzlies, wolves, and the mountain and others where I've seen a chipmunk only
It's part of the experience.

Be sure to get over to the new visitor center for information that will enhance your trip into the park. On your way to Denali, take a side trip to the town of Talkeetna. Pure Alaska!

fti

So you arrive Thu evening. Friday you drive to Denali, Saturday you take the shuttle to Eielson. If the Mountain is "out" I would get off your bus at Eielson and immediately go to the bus dispatcher and "upgrade" your ticket for about $10/person to Wonder Lake. The views of Mt. McKinley from near Wonder Lake are amazing (not to mention it is the closest point on the park road to the Mountain).

And be sure to get off the bus for at least a while, if nothing else just to walk along the road. You can flag down any other green bus to continue your journey.

I would stop in Talkeetna on your way to Denali, maybe having lunch at the Roadhouse. Upon arrival on Friday at Denali NP, go to the visitor center for the exhibits and film, the WAC for the film, and drive the first 14 miles of the road that evening, hoping to spot moose (common), caribou, or other animals. There is also a nice and easy loop hike at Savage River (the turnaround point at mile 14). Level and easy, takes 1+ hours. Also a decent chance for wildlife viewing (I have seen ptarmigan and coyote relatively close, golden eagles flying overhead and Dalls sheep up the mountainside from this trail).

What are you doing on Sunday? As ChugiakAk mentioned, seeing wildlife on your shuttle trip can be hit or miss (though generally I have had a good experience). You might want to consider a shuttle bus into the park on Sunday as well. You could take an early shuttle, maybe even just to Toklat, and be back in Anchorage by 10.30pm for your 12.30am flight.

No reserved seating on the bus but if you get to the loading dock 20-30 minutes before departure, you will have a good choice of seats. Generally those on the side directly behind the driver are better for views (though wildlife can be on either side obviously).

Or another option is to drive on Sunday back to Anchorage and drive south along Turnagain Arm. Incredible scenery and Potter Marsh has lots of birds and maybe moose, Girdwood is an interesting town, the Alaska Wildlife Conservation Center and Portage Glacier Visitor Center are all under an hour drive from Anchorage.

John

PS When in August are you going? We might just miss each other. I will be at Denali Mon Aug 23 to Thu Aug 26 (camping at Wonder Lake). Then on Aug 27 I fly to Kodiak for 3 nights.

oldpenny16

camping at Wonder Lake....take anti-bug protection including head nets. Darn bugs!

fti

Thanks for the warning. But by that time the mosquitoes and most bugs should all be gone. I have been to Wonder Lake pretty much every year the past X years, often in June and July. Yes, bug dope and headnets are needed. But a small price to pay for such an incredible place to camp.

judolphin

Wow, that's great info, thanks! We decided based on your suggestion to upgrade if we can see Denali. Unfortunately we're going the first weekend of August, so yes, we'd just miss each other Hope you enjoy your trip though!

I actually have one more question... should we be prepared for "winter weather" or more "sweatshirt weather" in your opinion at DNP?

fti

The key is layers, with the outer layer being waterproof. I usually start in the morning with 3-4 layers when it is cool out. Then by the time I am hiking mid-day I might be down to a T-shirt or a long-sleeved shirt. Be sure to bring a day pack with you to put the extra layers in. And bring a large water bottle and some food. No food is available once you leave the entrance and the only place to get your water bottle refilled is at Eielson Visitor Center (or at the Wonder Lake Campground, though they don't advertise that).

Last year I was at Wonder Lake in early August (camping) and the mosquitoes were gone for the most part. But you need to be prepared with high-concentrate DEET and a headnet just in case. The mosquitoes can be unbearable otherwise.

Have a great time.

John

jackal

Just wanted to toss in (although it was already implied) a specific answer to this:

Denali State Park is just a plot of land that the highway goes through with some views of the mountain. There are no facilities to speak of, short of a couple of pull-outs with outhouses and some barely-improved campgrounds.

Denali National Park is a massive operation. There are multiple visitor centers, a huge hotel village just outside the entrance, shuttle buses to drive you down the 90-mile limited-access road into the park, and tons of true backcountry hiking opportunities.

As for driving the "extra 5-6 hours round [trip]," it isn't just that. If it were, then I'd go to the state park and call it good. You won't actually see the mountain or much impressive scenery from the area near the park entrance. If you're going to drive the extra mileage up to the national park entrance, then you need to make it a destination and plan to stay for at least a night and ride the bus into the park, as fti and others have said.

Early August is when the rainy season starts to hit. To me, it's either T-shirt or just barely sweatshirt weather (likely 65-70 during the day if it's sunny and between 50-60 if it's cloudy and raining), but you may find that a bit colder than you're used to. You surely don't need to plan for freezing temperatures and winter parkas in August, though. A light windbreaker/sweatshirt combo with some light rain protection (layers are essential in Alaska; our rain is usually a soft drizzle and is rarely any harder) will do you fine.

Looks like you'll just miss our Giant Cabbage Do!

judolphin

Thanks for the info, really! Too bad though... Would love to have see the 286-pound cabbage

ChugiakAk

You might be able to see one of those monster cabbages by going to the visitor center in the town of Palmer. They have an outdoor garden that grows them throughout the summer.

judolphin

Holy cow, thanks, guys!

Amazing, amazing trip to Denali National Park.

We were lucky enough to see the Grand Canyon and Denali (both for the first time) in consecutive weeks. IMO, the Grand Canyon can't light a candle to Denali, although of course the Grand Canyon is amazing in its own right.

We drove into Denali to mile 14 and did the Savage River hike.

We also took the bus to Eielson and saw all of the Big 5 fairly close (wolves, moose, caribou, grizzlies & dall sheep). It was an overcast day but by sheer luck we got a great view of the mountain from Eielson for 2-3 minutes before it was covered up by clouds again. We decided not to continue to Wonder Lake because we figured the clouds would only get worse.

On Sunday, it was completely clear (so, we missed out by one day). We drove up the park road again, and saw the mountain behind the foothills, blazing white under the bright sunlight.

Also, I stayed in Healy at the Alaskan Spruce Cabins -- the owner is a really nice guy. They provide full service cabins with full kitchens, bathrooms stocked with toiletries, and even a small TV with Dish Network to keep us occupied as we were getting ready for bed, at a reasonable price.

I've never experienced anything like Denali and can't wait for the opportunity to return.

Thanks again for all your help!

fti

Thanks for the update. I just returned yesterday from two weeks in Alaska. The four days/three nights at Denali were incredible. We also saw all of the "big 5" very close, as well as lots of the same further away, plus fox, ptarmigan, coyote, hare, ground squirrel and more. Saw the Mountain on several occasions (twice totally cloud-free early in the morning) as well as the Northern Lights the morning of August 24th from Wonder Lake Campground.

Just a magical place and I already have plans to return to Denali June 8-11 next year.

oldpenny16

I've seen the Northern Lights from Wonder Lake campground as well. Lifetime experience. You are in a small group who has done so. Aug. 24 was supposed to be a very good night.