Namibia: Skeleton Coast Vs. Sossusvlei
 

These destination questions (and answers) are fantastic -- so I'll try my hand.

This August I'm spending 5-6 days in a camp on the Skeleton Coast and am wondering -- should I tack on a couple days to visit Sossusvlei? Is it sufficiently different? Any other guidance on "don't miss/don't bother" always welcome!

Very different. Sossusvlei is at the end of a river valley, surrounded by spectacular and very high sand dunes. The Nambians claims they are the highest dunes in the world, but a number of other countries makes similar claims for their dunes. The river is ephemeral, water only reaches the vlei (marsh) in years of exceptionally good rains. Happened a few years ago.

The dunes are the main attraction, best viewed and climbed at sunrise (cold in August!!) on a clear day (the Namib desert is prone to fog sweeping in from the cold Atlantic). There is also the Sesriem canyon, quite spectacular. The narrow end makes for an interesting walk (and swim, if there has been sufficient rain to fill the pools. First time I did this (1990) the rope ladder at the far end had disappeared, which called for some rock climbing to get out).

The Skeleton Coast is huge. Where exactly are you staying? Generally, the desert consists of gravel plains, not dunes. The main attractions are the stark landscape, seal colonies, desert adapted wildlife (including, surprisingly, lions. these are few and far between, though), the remains of wrecked ships and fishing.

I once spent Christmas on the Skeleton Coast in the company of president Sam Nujoma. To ensure his safety, the Nambian armed forces had driven two trucks with 40mm Bofors anti-aircraft guns all the way to the coast, and parked them either side of his cabin. Hilarious!


Where else in Namibia are you going? The country is large, there is a lot to see and do, but an itinerary should be carefully planned to avoid too much travel.

johan

I'm staying at the Wilderness Skeleton Coast Camp and other than Windhoek (Heinitzberg Hotel) I'm not booked anywhere else. I'm coming to Namibia after approx. 10 days in Botswana, staying at three different camps in the Delta. Sounds like I ought to spend at least three nights in Sossusvlei in order to get two days there before heading home . . .

You should see plenty of wildlife in Botswana in a lush landscape (although some trees will be leafless in winter), so no need to visit similar wildlife areas in Nambibia. The Skeleton Coast and Sossusvlei will be dramatically different from Botswana. A nice contrast.

Yes, allowing to full days at Sossusvlei is a good idea. Although a full day is sufficient to visit the vlei itself as well as Sesriem Canyon, you never know when the mist will roll in. An extra day increases your chances of clear skies.

By the way, don't forget to look up at night. There are few places on earth where the stars twinkle and sparkle as spectacularly as in the Namib Desert.

johan

You will have a fantastic time in Botswana, and, if you are staying at Wilderness Safari camps, I highly recommend them after our visit last August-am just sorry we didn't go to Namibia also. I hope you will post a trip report or Johan R posts more advice(thanks to him for previous advice) because we would love to plan a trip there for Aug.05.

Absolutely do not miss Sossusvlei. I could have spent 4 or 5 days exploring the dunes. From a photographer's perspective, they are a very interesting subject.

You should also try to go all the way into Dead Vlei as well. It's a barren watershed where the ground is cracked and dryed up. As Johan says, it only gets water during heavy rains (very rare). The trees are dying or dead as well and the stark contrasts to the red-orange sand of the dunes is really amazing.

During our visit there we had great sky shows as well. The sunsets were great agains the nearby mountains, but the next morning the full moon (and bright orange) set against the dunes and the early morning blue/pink sky before the sun broke the horizon to the east. I'll never forget THAT image, nor will my camera. ;) ^

Thanks
 

Sossusvlei is now part of my itinerary and I've started packing! A bit premature since I don't leave for two months but a good example of ho9w much I'm looking forward to this. Tell you all about it in September.

Have a wonderful trip and PLEASE post a trip report with all details! That hotel in Windhoek looks lovely too and I know the Wilderness camps will be great. Take warm clothes!

Glad you've been talked into Sossusvlei - it is a very special place. I visited it often while working in Namibia a few years back. You should have it mostly to yourself in winter. Make sure you talk your guide into a pre-sunrise departure for Sossusvlei. All of the lodging options, both camping and Sossusvlei Lodge, are located at Sesriem, which is 60 kms from Sossusvlei proper. The road is paved all the way except the last 4kms, which is soft sand (4wd a must!)Sunrise amongst the dunes is spectacular. The soft color changes and shadows will make your camera sing! And fortunately, it's one of those rare places where the pictures actually do the place justice. Dead Vlei is directly across the valley from Sossusvlei - it's about a 30 minute hike in but well worth it. The dead trees are 150 years old - with the apricot colored dunes as a backdrop it makes for some great shots.

One last note: while in Windhoek, don't miss Joe's Beerhouse. I know, I know, it's a very touristy place, but it's so full of Namibian kitsch it's well worth it. Great beer, food (if your a carnivore) and atmosphere.