Vaclav

Once in a while I get the urge to indulge in my ineradicable passion for travel. There are never enough vacation days and therefore time and good planning are of essence. In the midst of the last Canadian winter, I booked a mid-March weekend of opera, museum and business class travel to Chicago, the city that was exceptionally kind to me every time I visited. Air Canada simplified their North American fare structure, and as of March 1, it is possible to buy Latitude fare and request instant upgrade online. They also happened to have a seat sale and double miles promotion - an offer too good to pass. The internet bookings worked like a charm for my flights, hotel and opera tickets, and I could not wait for my first weekend escape this year.

Leaving Montreal

To maximize the qualifying segments and mileage, I opted for an indirect itinerary, changing planes in Toronto. As it often happens at that time of the year, a snow storm was heading for Montreal from the east, and flights to/from Boston and New York were already cancelled. I was heading west and was saved for now.

Online checked in for my flights 24 hours in advance and travelling with just a carry on, I made only a brief stop at the Air Canada counter at Dorval to make sure that they marked “certificate lifted in YUL” in my file. Only one certificate is needed per direction. Security was easy, they did not even ask me to remove my belt and shoes and I headed straight for the domestic Maple Leaf Lounge. After being there so many times since the opening in early 1990s, I have a little bit of emotional attachment to it and to my favourite corner seat facing the tarmac. A glass of pleasant French white wine and some vegetables and crackers on offer let me forget hard week and work.

Before long it was time to go downstairs and board the AC415 for Toronto. Since I had a carry on and the flight was full, I made sure to be among the first who board to find space in the overhead bin. Nevertheless, an off-duty captain was already there hoarding quite a bit of bin space with the in-charge FA fawning all over him. Smiling, I remarked: “Some things never change, it is always employees before passengers, right?” I was hoping for and XM (extreme makeover) plane but it was not meant to be. The interiors of most A319s are in need of refurbishment that is not coming fast enough. The usual service started quickly once we reached the cruising altitude, however it does not amount to much these days. They were offering chicken or shrimp skewers and some basic vegetables. Both the content and presentation looked cheap. Where is the “superior product” often advertised and to be had in the past? Opting for the chicken, I was handed two skewers that I washed down with Codorniu. That is acceptable Spanish cava sparkling wine. Again, I would welcome the return of something more classy, e.g. Chandon that used to be served before the cutbacks. Overall, the service was well coordinated and efficient for a full flight. More importantly, we arrived on time.

Transborder flights in Toronto now depart from Terminal 1. The US immigration and passport control was fairly easy and in no time I found myself in the newly opened and quite spectacular Maple Leaf Lounge of Air Canada awaiting my flight to Chicago. I had enough time to send a couple of emails and my call friends in Europe while munching on a bunch of fresh grapes. The AC511 was more then half empty. It was another A319, departing late due to missing flight attendant. Once in the air and with only four of us upfront, the service commenced. This time, they gave me three chicken skewers and more Codorniu. The male FA tried to do almost miracles, presenting what he had to offer as if it were pieces of gems. I wish that they brought back the full trays like Lufthansa does. The AC CEO Montie Brewer admires LH, so does the marketing guru Tyler Brule – where is the catch then? I decided to return to my reading material which was W. Somerset Maugham’s The Razor’s Edge. As it happens, it takes place in Chicago and Europe. At times I felt like Elliott Templeton (less his enormous wealth).

In Chicago

With all the border formalities performed in advance in Canada, there was no time wasted upon arrival. I headed straight for the CTA trains to the city. I still had $1 left in my transit card from last year, so adding another $3 was enough for the return trip – an incredible bargain. Travelling time to The Loop amounts to about 45 minutes of a comfortable ride with occasional scenic view of the Chicago suburbs. While in Chicago, I used to stay at The Palmer House (Hilton), the longest continuously operated hotel in the USA. This time it was not available and I took a gamble to spend two nights at the recently opened Hampton Inn Majestic (also Hilton). When you get off the train at Monroe and Dearborn, this boutique hotel sits just around the corner and is impossible to miss. The building was formerly the LaSalle Bank and theatre. The theatre, now renovated as well, is still there, the bank was recycled into a fancy hotel. There is not an inch of space wasted there from the corner entrance with a bellboy to the 4th floor reception and breakfast area to individual and well-appointed rooms. At $149 and expanded continental breakfast I certainly did not complain. Try to find a similar deal in Manhattan – impossible these days!

I always argued against leaving the night before but there is significant advantage to it when you wake up rested in your destination. Being an early riser, I enjoyed the first breakfast before returning to my room on the 9th floor to watch The Queen on a wide flat screen from the comfort of a hotel bed. Helen Mirren’s performance was surely Oscar worthy and the movie threw me back ten years; yes time flies! Before heading out to my usual haunt, The Magnificent Mile, I made a quick stopover on the 4th floor and ate more breakfast. By now, the area was overflowing with the St.Patrick’s Parade revellers with more of them in the surrounding area outside. I am not a fan of crowds of any kind. It must be the remnants from childhood spent in communist Czechoslovakia where forced celebrations and huge crowds were obligatory. The sunny Saturday morning turned out to be quite chilly forcing me to make warm-up stops in many stores along the North Michigan Avenue. A dear friend of mine who years ago nudged me to step out of my shadow and changed my life forever by moving to Canada acquired by miracle a palazzo-style apartment in Prague that he just finished renovating. Williams-Sonoma is perfect store to purchase an upscale American gift for his Czech kitchen, and that is exactly what I did, keeping in mind the current air travel limitations: It had to be unbreakable, not sharp (I had a carry on only) and not too bulky or heavy. Warm and happy with the purchase, I hopped over to the Oak Street Beach. Being in the city and so close to the huge body of water that one can actually touch makes your spine quiver. It was hard to believe then that in a couple of months it will be scorching hot and now entirely empty beach will be swarming with swimmers. I took another look over the blank horizon and wanted to stay longer but the chilly wind reminded me that winter was not gone yet. The fabulous Drake hotel (also Hilton) presides over this small stretch of the beach almost a century. While in the heavily decorated lobby, I decided against English tea at the stylish Palm Court, hoping for a drink at the Intercontinental lobby bar later. No luck, though, it was packed with participants of the Parade now returning to their hotels. That hotel (formerly an Athletic Club from 1928) is another architectural gem, and the only upscale hotel opening directly on the Magnificent Mile. Their semi-olympic size pool is what I needed but did not have at my inn after all that walking. Returning to The Loop, just a little further and close to the famous Wrigley Building, the Chicago River was turned vivid green to honour St.Patrick. It appeared to be a dazzling view. The main event was still to come!

To be continued.