Excellent trip report.
Originally Posted by sgn1k
bensyd's guide was probably more or less correct. When I visited the DMZ from the other side on a USO tour a couple of years ago, I asked the GI who was showing us around whether the tough-looking ROK troops who peer across the border around buildings got tired from being on constant alert. He said that they only come out for protection when tour groups are coming through, otherwise the area is fairly deserted -- soldiers do regular patrols and watch things through binoculars, but they don't wander around or spend too much time out in the open where someone from the other side might come up with a reason to open fire. I have no idea how many NK troops are visible when no tourists are around.
When we visited from the south, there were no concurrent tours from the north. Luckily I brought by binoculars, because the only 2 DPRK soldiers visible were a long way away. One was amongst the scaffolding on top of the steps in front of the large pavilion and the other was at the base of the guard tower off to the right (or, more appropriately,
stage left).
Link to my pics.