Monday, Dec 21
After a fitful night of sleep due to the altitude I woke up ready to go. Today was pretty much the whole reason for the trip: Machu Picchu. I had booked the MP tour through the hotel which included roundtrip private car transfer from the hotel to Ollantaytambo, roundtrip train from Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes, lunch at the Inkaterra hotel, bus to and from MP, a private guide and entrance ticket.
After a quick breakfast of eggs and fruit in the hotel restaurant, I met my driver in the lobby for the car ride to the Ollantaytambo train station about two hours away. Now, you might be asking why doesn't the train just run direct from Cusco to Aguas Calientes? Great question as I was thinking the same thing. Apparently during the rainy season the train doesn't reach Cusco because the vibrations caused by it will create rock slides hence the two hour car ride to Ollantaytambo.
The ride was pretty scenic if a little bumpy at times. We got to the train station about 30 minutes before departure so I walked around the vendor stalls just outside. I had forgotten that a face shield was required so I picked one up. I didn't realize there were separate trains for tourists and locals. I tried to line up for the local train and was told to walk back toward the entrance where I could board the Expedition cars for tourists. Once onboard it was clear that there were not going to be very many visitors to MP. I think my entire car had about six people. The tracks followed the Urubamba River and provided some breathtaking views of the Andes. Unfortunately, I was trying to conserve power on my phone for pictures up at MP so I didn't take many photos on the train ride.
About an hour and a half later we arrived at Aguas Calientes (aka Machu Picchu Pueblo). While the Expedition cars didn't have many people the local cars were completely full. Everyone had to get in line and pass through what I can only describe as a little sanitation tent, which sprayed you down with God-knows-what. This created a little bit of a bottleneck, but soon enough I was in town!
Stalls outside of Ollantaytambo station
Local cars in front, Expedition cars in the back
Nearly empty car
Thwarted by the river
Urubamba River
Arrived at Aguas Calientes
Waiting in line to exit
I met my guide, Rehider, at the main square just outside of the station exit. We walked around the town a bit as our lunch reservation was not until noon. We chatted about the pandemic and how it has wiped out tourism in his country and how he spent a year living in Utah to learn English. We eventually walked to the Inkaterra, which is boutique hotel of 16 bungalows set next to the river. Lunch started with a tasty salad, then grilled chicken with quinoa and flan for dessert. A delicious meal with even better conversation.
Rehider suggested we head over to the bus stop in case we had to wait in line. He said during the peak season he has had to wait up to two hours just to get onto the bus to take you up to MP! This time, however, the bus was pretty empty. And by pretty empty I mean it was just me, my guide and the driver. The ride took about 25 minutes and follows a serious of somewhat harrowing hairpin turns with nothing holding the bus from going over the side of the mountain. I really wouldn't want to be on this road when it is rainy. With a little prayer we made it to the top and about to start one of the highlights of any trip I've ever taken.
Plaza de Armas
On the bus up to MP