After a nap I asked to be moved and they found me a Junior Suite in the historic wing. The overall finishing is significantly better (the wooden entry doors are stunning) and I have a slightly bizarre but quite lovely little sitting room with only partially enclosed windows.
Honolulu is a bit of a culture shock after having spent most of the last 3 months on islands with fewer people than the average Waikiki luau, but the Royal Hawaiian definitely has some charm amongst the crowds. I’m obviously not the target market for either the island or the hotel, but I can see why some people like it. What I do find interesting is that views here can command the same (frankly insane) price premiums as at the Mauna Kea - I had no idea Honolulu was such an up-market destination.