Hi everyone
First trip report for me on Flyertalk, so please go easy on me.
It might be a bit heavy on the sightseeing and neglect the inflight experience somewhat, but that is mainly because I didn’t really travel on super-exciting products.
I recently got back from a 19 days trip to Central Asia where I visited Uzbekistan, Tajikistan and Kyrgyzstan. Actually the main point of the trip was supposed to be Turkmenistan but despite waiting for three weeks, the letter of invitation didn’t arrive in time.
My journey from Singapore then looked as follows:
Singapore-Amritsar-Tashkent-Nukus
For whatever reason, Amritsar seems to be a good starting point to get to Central Asia. There are at least bi-weekly flights to both Ashgabat (ASB) as well as Tashkent (TAS). I was waiting until the last day to get my permit for Turkmenistan and hence waiting to book my onward travel from Amritsar. As luck would have it, ASB and TAS flights left within three hours of each other, so I had some flexibility (especially since I had secured my Uzbekistan visa earlier in Singapore).
Scoot took me to Amritsar for a fair $70 (economy, no luggage) plus another $55 for an upgrade to their Premium Economy (which included luggage and a meal which I would have paid for anyways). Not too bad for a 5.5h flight. The route doesn’t seem to be doing to well yet, as fares are consistently low and the load factor could have been higher.
In India I used for the first time the e-visa. Much easier than previously and way cheaper. Although ATQ immigration still took over 20mins to process me (I was the only one on the flight with an e-visa). A few weeks later in DEL they seemed to be more familiar with the process and it took me 2mins to pass immigration.
Quickly dropped off my bags at the Holiday Inn (PointBreaks 5k) and continued on with the same taxi to the border with Pakistan to watch the daily border closing ceremony. Really impressive and entertaining to watch.
India to the left, Pakistan to the right.
That’s it, border’s closed – come back tomorrow.
Same taxi, next stop Golden Temple.
Breathtaking
Since my Turkmenistan visa hadn’t arrive, I had to reschedule and head straight to Uzbekistan. Of course by now, economy was sold out and the only remaining option was Business for the 2.5hrs flight at $450 one-way.
Uzbekistan Airways (HY) B767 Business Class is nothing to write home about. Perfectly fine for the short hop though. I wonder what the new 787 will bring for them.
IFE
Meal
Kabul Airport
We landed in Tashkent on time. Uzbekistan Airways museum.
Immigration was reasonably quick thanks to VIP immigration for business class (completely separate facilities). I took a taxi to the other side of the airport to the domestic airport. Unfortunately tickets were sold out to my intended destination of Urgench as well as Bukhara. So I settled on the only destination they were willing to put me on standby for – Nukus. Quickly checked the guide book on what there is to do and how to get onwards from there. Looking back, it was a really good choice as I got to fly the rare Ilyushin 114.
Cruising across the Kyzyl-Kum desert
And after a long day I had finally made it to the capital of the Republic of Karakalpakstan (which I hadn’t even known existed earlier that morning).
Despite being one of the most depressing cities I have ever been to (it is the jumping off point to the Aral Sea which is apparently even more depressing), there is fortunately one big highlight: the Savitsky Museum which is apparently one of the best art collections in the former Soviet Union.
The next morning I continued on with a shared taxi to Khiva.
Fascinating city, everything in great shape. However if almost feels like an open air museum as barely anyone still lives within the city walls.
Thanks to the black market exchange rate, the country is super cheap at the moment for tourists. Dinner in a nice restaurant including appetizer and main course as well as a beer will cost you less than $5$.
After one night, I continued one with a shared taxi to Bukhara, which remained the highlight for me on the trip in Uzbekistan.
After two days, I made my way to Samarkand by train. Thanks to construction works for the new high-speed train, the 3hrs trip turned into a 6h journey.
The new Spanish-built Afrosyiob.
Registan in Samarkand.
Mauseloum of Timur (Tamerlane)
Typical bread. Saturday market in Urgut, an hour outside of Samarkand.
With another shared taxi I made my way from Samarkand via Denau to Dushanbe in Tajikistan (worst border crossing getting out of Uzbekistan – they go through all your pictures on your phone and laptop).
Somon.
Dushanbe International Airport
Not too much happening here.
