Seat 2A

April 29, 2015
Emirates Airlines Johannesburg to Dubai 150p – 1159p 777-300 First Class

On five previous departures from South Africa I have had the good fortune to enjoy First Class passage aboard Cathay Pacific’s 12:30pm departure to Hong Kong. Unfortunately, Cathay no longer offers First Class service between Johannesburg and Hong Kong. As an Alaska Airlines Mileage Plan member I could also utilize British Airways’ services through London, but those flights come with expensive fuel and security surcharges as well as a First Class product that can be – to put it politely - inconsistent. You can imagine then my surprise and delight when Emirates joined Alaska Airlines’ Mileage Plan, thus adding yet another great First Class option between South Africa and North America.

I have envisioned myself on this flight ever since. I’m speaking specifically of Emirates’ 1:50pm departure between Johannesburg and Dubai. It’s an exotic route that’s flown at the perfect time of day – a midafternoon departure that will allow me to easily stay awake for the entire flight while enjoying two fine meals and a nice sunset enroute. Some other great routes I have flown in premium class at this time of day include:

Santiago to Mexico City
Los Angeles to Lima
London to Miami
Melbourne to Singapore
Sydney to Honolulu
Sydney to Hong Kong
Buenos Aires to Frankfurt
Johannesburg to Hong Kong
Sao Paulo to Johannesburg

My preferred departure time is anywhere from 11:00am to 6:00pm. The timing is important because from my perspective, international First Class is a lot more enjoyable if the flight departs at a time of day that allows me to actually enjoy the service. Service for me is highlighted by an enjoyable cocktail hour (presented with canapés, of course) and a lavish meal presentation. A good inflight entertainment system and overall seating comfort also contribute significantly to inflight enjoyment.

While a 180° lie flat suite seat and turn down service are all well and good, one cannot appreciate seating comfort while asleep. That is to say a comfortable and more spacious seat may enable you to get to sleep more easily and possibly even sleep better but - once you’re totally asleep - you could just as easily be lying on a concrete floor for all you know since you can’t appreciate creature comforts if you’re not conscious. I was once so tired that I fell asleep while sitting on a stool – hardly the ideal sleeping platform - but I slept for a couple of hours on it and actually felt quite a bit better when I woke up. While I was asleep however I felt no different than if I’d been in my own bed. Another time I fell asleep while hitch hiking down to Denali. I’d come in from the Canadian border and hadn’t slept in over thirty hours. I was tired and decided to hitch from a seated position while leaning back against my backpack. Sitting there on the hard dirt roadside was just comfortable enough that I inadvertently fell asleep right there for a good three hours. Whether or not anybody stopped I’ll never know but I do know that for three hours I slept as soundly as if I’d been in my own bed.

In any event I get plenty of opportunity to sleep at home in a bed that’s far more comfortable than any converted airline seat. That doesn’t mean I never sleep on airplanes or avoid night flights. As a rule however, when it comes to enjoying the benefits of international First Class service I prefer flying during times that allow me the best opportunity to remain comfortably conscious throughout all or most of the flight.


* * * _ * _ * * *


I am not one of those worrisome flyers who abide by all the rules and strive to arrive at the airport the recommended two to three hours in advance of my flight. However, when flying in International First Class aboard an airline of Emirates’ caliber, I am one of those excited flyers who like to arrive three to four hours in advance of my flight so that I’ll have that much more time to enjoy another much cherished aspect of international First Class travel – preflight lounging in the First Class Lounge.

My initial preflight lounge experience came in advance of a First Class flight on Air New Zealand between Los Angeles and Papeete in July of 1981. Back in those days most First Class lounges were a lot less spacious and opulent than the quality facilities we enjoy today. Food and drink offerings were nice though hardly extravagant. A tray of crudités, a bowl of mixed nuts and a selection of finger sandwiches was usually par for the course.

Anticipatory research undertaken in the days leading up to this trip revealed that Emirates’ premium class lounge at Johannesburg was a comfortable and well stocked facility that – in addition to the usual amenities commensurate with its pedigree - also offered a full hot buffet. As such I limited my morning intake to a cup of coffee before bidding adieu to Heinz and heading out to Johannesburg’s O.R. Tambo International Airport.

Emirates does offer a complimentary chauffer service to the airport for its First Class clientele, however that perk no longer applies to passengers travelling on award tickets. Regardless, I would much rather have ridden with Chris in his old Ford pick-up than deal with the awkwardness of being delivered to the airport while sat alone in the back of some limousine. Call me a rube if you will, but I derive no personal value or satisfaction from being delivered to the airport or to my plane in a luxury car.

It was approaching 10:00am when Chris dropped me off at the international departures terminal. Although it was nearly four hours in advance of my flight, I was confident the check-in counter would be open and available since Emirates operates three daily flights between Johannesburg and Dubai, including a 9:45am departure.

Check-in proceeded as expeditiously as you would expect for a First Class ticket holder and soon I was on my way through security and emigration, armed with a pair of attractive First Class boarding cards printed with lounge invites for Johannesburg and Dubai.

Sweeping through the phalanx of strategically placed airport shops, I bee lined it through the colorful displays of clothing, jewelry, souvenirs and liquor that in most cases and with a modicum of foresight could have easily been purchased at equal or lesser prices prior to arriving at the airport. Or even over the internet after arriving home, for those of us who live in most developed countries.

Located on the mezzanine level above the duty free mall, the Emirates Lounge is accessed through an attractive portal comprised of dark wood walls framing a set of sliding glass doors. Above the doors, “The Emirates Lounge” was highlighted in gold metallic lettering. I was cordially greeted by a receptionist who inspected my boarding card and then gave me a brief overview of the lounge and its facilities along with the wi-fi password.

In terms of overall ambience, this lounge is pleasant though hardly opulent. You enter into a large room with seating for 135 guests. The beige upholstered seats and couches are set around a collection of low coffee tables accented with lamps and potted plants. Large windows run the length of the lounge on both walls, allowing in plenty of natural light.




The Emirates Lounge at Johannesburg



Comfortable seating in the Emirates Lounge


A large flat screen television was mounted at one end of the lounge and just beyond that was a room sporting a well-equipped business center with all the usual accoutrements typically found in such facilities. Continuing on to the other side of the lounge, I rounded a corner and came upon the food service area. It included a hot buffet featuring breakfast items such as eggs, potatoes and breakfast meats. An attractive service island had a variety of fruit plates, yogurts and cheeses on display. A well-stocked self-service bar was available along one wall.

After dropping off my gear at a nearby table, I grabbed a plate and put together an enviable collection of breakfast foods highlighted by a wonderful tomato and asparagus quiche that was every bit as delicious as it looked. Copious quantities of good hot coffee accompanied my feast, along with the latest edition of Business Traveller magazine.




Self-Service Bar at the JNB Emirates Lounge



A delicious start to the day


Between catching up on the latest newspapers and dashing off a set of last minute postcards to friends back home, time passed quickly. By midday the service island contents had been changed to an enticing selection of sandwiches, salads, appetizers and desserts. It was oh so tempting to indulge in an appetizer or three but I exercised admirable restraint in limiting myself to just a small shrimp salad and a ramekin of mixed nuts to accompany my tumbler of Jack Daniels.

It was almost 1:20pm when the first boarding announcement was made for EK762. At only thirty minutes out I thought this was a bit late given the scheduled 1:50pm departure and the distance yet to be walked down to the departure gate. Truth be known, I was on my feet and just getting ready to head down to the gate anyway – if only for a bit of preflight gazing upon my waiting 777.

Despite the fact that this is my eighth flight in First Class aboard Emirates, the anticipation to rejoin the inflight festivities is considerable. Indeed, when you consider the quality of Emirates’ First Class experience, I’d like to think my level of anticipation will be just as high prior to my 25th flight God willing I should be so fortunate.

As I strolled down the length of the broad concourse, it occurred to me how much I enjoy this particular stroll down this particular concourse. That’s because of all the times I’ve previously journeyed down this wonderful promenade, it’s been to board a long flight in international First Class aboard Cathay Pacific to Hong Kong. I am thrilled to add today’s flight on Emirates to the collection and look forward to extending this streak on future departures.

Waiting at the gate was A6-EBB, a beautiful ten year old 777-300LR that looked quite splendid in Emirates’ attractive livery, especially with the Emirates name and logo in stylish gold script along the side of the fuselage. A fair sized crowd had gathered in the gate lounge and I was surprised to see that most of them had already organized into a long and orderly line behind the Economy Class sign. This has not always been my experience when departing Johannesburg, so today’s orderliness was a welcome departure from the chaos that usually prevails. The best thing about it was that I was able to stroll unimpeded to the First and Business Class lane where my passport and boarding pass were summarily inspected after which I was cleared to proceed down the jetway.

Ah, the excitement of it all… Be still, my heart!

By the way, have you ever noticed that scent as you walk down the jetway? It’s generally the same smell at all the world’s best airports when boarding the world’s finest airlines. It’s that clean plane smell. It’s a pretty unique aroma. I’ve only encountered it whilst boarding airplanes and maybe once when for some reason I was sniffing some new shoes. To me at least it’s a most agreeable smell lightly accented with just a tiny hint of Jet A fuel. I’d like to bottle it up and spray it in my old truck. Or maybe in my old shoes. But I digress…

A pair of crisply uniformed flight attendants was stationed at the doorway as I arrived at the end of the jetway. They both looked quite fetching in their beige uniforms with white scarves and red hats. I handed my boarding pass to the nearest one who then welcomed me by name and requested I follow her through the small forward Business Class cabin before parting the heavy beige curtain at the divider and leading the way into the sanctuary of the First Class cabin. There we were met by the lovely Marianna who showed me to my suite – basically by gesturing to her right since it was right there at 2A. She introduced herself and then asked if I’d flown with Emirates before. Indeed I have, I replied. It’s one of my favorite ways to spend a few hours aloft. Following a bit of small talk during which we established that via past experience I was familiar with the functions of my seat and the suites, I was assisted in hanging my sport coat and asked if I’d care for anything to drink. Some Champagne, perhaps?

Now I must admit that unlike some of you here at Flyertalk, I am not an avid aficionado of Champagne. A glass or two is fine but after that I’m ready to move on to something less bubbly. That said, Champagne has long been the traditional salute to many a great voyage over the years – particularly those voyages that commence in grand style aboard the world’s finest airlines, railways and ocean liners. Far be it from me to depart from such a marvelous and time honored tradition, especially when the Champagne being proffered is none other than Cuvée Dom Pérignon, one of the world’s premier Champagnes and one that has quite possibly been poured in more First Class cabins than any other.

“Yes, please!” I said and then kicked off my shoes and settled back into the cool leather upholstery of my plush First Class seat.




Emirates’ First Class Suite


Since they were first introduced aboard the A340-500 a few years ago, Emirates’ First Class suites have gone on to become the stuff of legend. While many other airlines also offer First Class suites, Emirates was the first to introduce sliding doors, effectively turning the suite into a private compartment much as you’d find in a Pullman roomette aboard a railroad sleeper car. Ah, but Emirates’ suite offers so much more than the roomettes of old or even some of the suites of today.

Prominently featured directly in front of me was a large 23” LCD screen through which to take advantage of Emirates’ excellent ICE inflight entertainment program. It was mounted above a spacious table in which was embedded a nicely stocked vanity complete with folding mirror and little round lights. I briefly admired my craggy good looks before closing the mirror and continuing with my inspection. A silver basket containing various snack items had been thoughtfully placed to one side of the table. Above it a plume of orchids placed in a gold trimmed container added tasteful accent to the beige carpeted wall. On the opposite side of the table a small desk lamp completed the table top ensemble while providing warm ambience to the suite. Below the table a shallow drawer contained a writing kit complete with pen, paper and envelopes.




The view looking forward



Seatside Minibar


To my left was a seat-side mini-bar stocked with a variety of non-alcoholic beverages. At the push of a button it quietly receded back into its housing. The seat side table is huge and lifts out and into position much more easily than many others I’ve experienced. There is ample storage space for a small carry-on bag up front and a couple of seat-side compartments for the storage of smaller items such as a camera or book. The controls for the seat, lights, privacy doors and electronic window blinds are all housed in a tablet that’s mounted to the left of the seat. For more convenient operation, this tablet can be removed from its housing and operated wirelessly from your seat. The seat also includes a massage with four different functions available.

Welcome to my home for the next eight hours.




Welcome Aboard


Marianna returned with my Champagne, accompanied by a small ramekin of mixed nuts. I sipped and watched as my fellow passengers filtered into the cabin. There were only five of us fortunate to be sat in the eight suite forward cabin this afternoon, so there would be plenty of time for a relaxed and more personable service. A brief glimpse back into the Business Class cabin revealed a similarly light load back there.




Emirates 777-300 Forward Business Class Cabin


The cavalcade of preflight services continued with the presentation of wonderfully hot steaming towels done in the Oshibori tradition which of course includes the addition of a light scent. A lot of airlines offer hot towels but not since a flight on Northwest Orient many years ago have I had the good fortune to enjoy a proper Oshibori towel. Nicely done, Emirates!

It wasn’t long before another flight attendant arrived with a tray of Arabic coffee and individually wrapped dates. I remember trying a couple of these dates the first time I flew Emirates and I found them not to my liking. The dates, that is. As for mixing strong Arabic coffee and Champagne, that seems like a good recipe for excess stomach acid so I passed and instead awaited a refill on my Champagne. In the interim menus and wine lists were passed out and my roll-a-bord was kindly relocated to the empty suite across the aisle from me.

I could sense we were about ready to close the doors when the Captain came on over the PA, introduced himself and his crew and informed us that our flight time up to Dubai this afternoon would be seven hours and fifty-six minutes. With the exception of a band of thunderclouds to the south of Dubai, we should have a smooth and pleasant flight to look forward to. That sure sounds good to me. Let’s hit the road! Uh sorry, make that runway.

Shortly thereafter, the jet bridges disengaged and pulled back from the aircraft. My Champagne glass was collected and we began our pushback from the gate. As the engines spooled up, I couldn’t help but notice how much quieter the 777-300 is during this time than the shorter -200 model. The -300 includes a 17.5’ fuselage plug ahead of the wings in addition to another 15.75’ one behind the wings. That extra distance forward from the engines really makes a difference in the overall cabin noise level, both on the ground and in the air - particularly just after takeoff during climb out when the engines are working their hardest.

Dubai sits 3,980 miles to the north and a tad east of Johannesburg. The distance is about the same as New York to Milan – well within the range of our 777-300ER which is capable of flying twice that distance. As we made our way out to the runway, I considered that to me at least New York to Milan seems like a pretty long flight whereas this afternoon’s flight of similar length feels more like a short afternoon jaunt. Perhaps it’s our south to north routing which doesn’t appear to cover as much area as the east west route over land and sea between Milan and New York. Then again, perhaps it’s in anticipation of and in comparison to my flight tomorrow between Dubai and San Francisco which checks in at 8090 miles with a scheduled flying time of just over sixteen hours.

Following the thunderous departure of a beautiful Air Seychelles A330, the Captain gently revved the engines and we taxied into position at the head of the runway. Before we take to the air, I’d like to put a shout out to fellow FTer SFO777 whose kind advice proved most helpful in allowing me to secure a First Class seat on this flight with a lot less hassle than I might otherwise have encountered. Thank you, Sir!

Sitting at 5512 ft (1680 meters) above sea level, Johannesburg’s high elevation means that fully laden aircraft require a far greater length of runway to achieve take-off velocity. The western runway, 03L/21R, is over 14,000 ft (4400 meters) long, making it one of the world's longest international airport runways. Our moderately laden 777-300, with its powerful GE90-115B turbofans each capable of generating up to 115,000 pounds of thrust, still required all of 53 seconds before achieving sufficient velocity to break earth’s surly bonds and soar into the warm afternoon skies above Johannesburg.


* * * _ * _ * * *


It’s a beautiful afternoon up here in the soft blue yonder. Cruising along at 587 mph with feet up and seat slightly reclined, life could hardly be finer for a guy like me who lives for these luxurious moments aloft. I keep a separate logbook highlighting only those flights flown in international First Class. No Business Class flights are included - only International First Class. This flight represents my 100th in that esteemed category. As such, I do believe a celebratory drink is in order. Let’s have a look at that drink menu:


BAR SERVICE

Aperitifs
Campari Bitter
Martini Vermouth – Dry/Sweet

Beers
A selection of international beers including Heineken, Budweiser and Amstel Light

Cocktails
Black Russian, Bloody Mary, Bucks Fizz, Champagne Cocktail, Cosmopolitan (US routes), Fantasy Island, Kir Royal, Manhattan, Martini Cocktail Classic, Screwdriver, Vodka Martini

Mocktails
Orange Fizz, Apple Spritzer

Spirits
Premium Scotch Whisky - Chivas Regal Royal Salute 21 Years Old, Johnnie Walker Blue Label
Single Malt Whisky - Glenfiddich 21 Years Old
Bourbon - Woodford Reserve
Cognac - Hennessy Privé
Vodka - Grey Goose
Gin - Bombay Sapphire
Rum - Bacardi Superior

Liqueurs
Bailey’s Irish Cream
Tia Maria
Drambuie
Cointreau


WINE LIST

Champagne
Cuvée Dom Pérignon 2004

White Wines
Blanc de Lynch Bages 2012 Bordeaux, France
Chevalier Montrachet 2008 Grand Cru Burgundy, France
Chablis Premier Cru Vau de Vey 2012 Burgundy, France
Sancerre Delaporte Cuvee Maxime 2013 Loire, France

Red Wines
Château Pavie 2004 Saint Emilion, France
Domaine du Vieux TélVgraphe 2011 Rhône Valley, France
Contador 2009 Rioja, Spain
Château d’Aiguilhe 2008 Bordeaux, France
Caiarossa IGT Toscana 2007 Tuscany, Italy

Dessert Wine
Château Guiraud 2002 Sauternes, France

Port
Sandeman 40 Year Old Tawny Douro, Portugal


I found it surprising that no South African wines were offered. Regardless, this flight’s assemblage of fine wines and spirits made deciding upon one a most enjoyable endeavor. After a few moments of balanced consideration, I came to the conclusion that a glass of the Chevalier Montrachet Grand Cru Burgundy would provide a most delightful salute.

Earlier in the flight Marianna and I had discussed the inflight dining options and at her suggestion I elected to enjoy my Burgundy with samplings of both the hot and cold savories. After the wine been presented, poured, tasted and approved, my glass was filled and two small plates of canapés were delivered.




Wine and Canapés at 37000’


For me at least, this is what it’s all about – comfortably ensconced in a wide comfortable seat being wined and dined like a plutocrat while out my window the beautiful blue world of the troposphere provides a magnificent backdrop that is every bit as exquisite as it is soothing. This is commercial air travel at its finest. I am indeed a fortunate flyer.

As I savored the Burgundy and delicious canapes, I reflected back on some of the ninety-nine other First Class flights I’ve enjoyed over the years. The average length of my one hundred First Class flights comes to 4,611 miles per flight. It’s a shame Flyertalk wasn’t around back in the 70s and 80s because I could have provided some wonderful trip reports. In lieu of those, please join me while I take a brief stroll down Memory Lane…

My first experience in International First Class was actually flown entirely within North American boundaries. Starting in Vancouver, Canada on a sunny afternoon in April of 1976, I boarded a QANTAS 747 named “City of Canberra” and flew to Honolulu with an intermediate stop in San Francisco. Along the way I was served a wonderful six course dinner highlighted by a delightful Bouillabaisse and a savory Roast Rib Eye of Beef. Equally exciting was a visit to the magnificent upstairs lounge known as the Captain’s Club. To this day it remains the most nicely appointed airliner lounge I have ever had the good fortune to enjoy.




QANTAS’s Captain’s Club


In 1981 I flew from Los Angeles to Tahiti and back on an airline industry discount. Outbound was aboard an Air New Zealand DC-10, complete with big wide lamb’s wool covered seats and one of the most extravagant meals I have ever been served aloft. The return was aboard a shiny new UTA 747. Luncheon was served on the seven and a half hour flight to LA and was highlighted by a fantastic feathered fois gras presentation atop the trolley.

In 1987, I took advantage of a favorable exchange rate on the US dollar to purchase a First Class mileage ticket between Auckland and Tokyo. The maximum permitted routing on Mileage Tickets is based upon the nonstop mileage between the origin and destination cities plus 25%. Along the way I could use any combination of airlines and routes to get from Auckland to Tokyo so long as my total mileage didn’t exceed 25% of the nonstop mileage between those two cities. Here’s the routing I came up with along with the meals served:

Auckland – Melbourne Air New Zealand 747-219 Luncheon
Melbourne – Sydney - Brisbane Ansett 767-277 Luncheon / Snack
Brisbane – Sydney - Singapore Singapore Airlines 747-212 Snack / Luncheon
Singapore – Bangkok Thai International 747-200 Dinner
Bangkok – Hong Kong Cathay Pacific 747-267 Luncheon
Hong Kong – Tokyo Swissair 747-357 Luncheon

In the late 80s and early 90s I took advantage of Continental’s affordable flights between the U.S. and Australia. Continental’s DC-10-30s sported wide and plush First Class sleeper seats along with lavishly catered meals, my favorite of which was highlighted by an appealing fois gras presentation followed by the best lobster tail I have ever been served inflight.

Those were some fine days, my friends. Although the older First Class cabins with their first generation sleeper seats and rudimentary IFE options were nowhere near as advanced as the modern First Class cabins currently available, the meal service was generally on par with what we enjoy today. I particularly miss the panache of the trolley service and the magnificent presentations of food laid out for all to admire.




Fois Gras and Appetizers on an Air France 707



Lobster, Salmon and Caviar on a BOAC VC10



Dessert is served on an Air New Zealand DC-8


An elaborate trolley service properly presented could transform your dinner from a meal into an event. Nothing quite matched the mouthwatering anticipation of seeing beautifully assembled trays of food paraded down the aisle and watching as your flight attendant skillfully put together tantalizing plates of food for others and finally, for yourself.

Because mealtimes were fixed, it really felt like a group event that we all celebrated together. Though it’s hard to argue against the private, individualized service offered these days, the group approach sure was fun – a shared culinary adventure that was often the highlight of the flight.


* * * _ * _ * * *


I don’t know about you but all this reminiscing about airline meal service is making me hungry! Let’s have a look at what’s available on this afternoon’s flight. The menu is housed in an attractive leather bound holder, If appearances are any indication of the menu’s quality, we should be in for quite a feast!




Emirates First Class Menu


A LA CARTE DINING

DINNER
Johannesburg to Dubai

Canapés
A selection of hot and cold savories including beef kofta, vegetable samosa, salmon cake, Mediterranean bruschetta with scampi and peppered goat’s cheese

APPETIZERS

Caviar
Perfectly prepared chilled caviar presented with a traditional selection of finely chopped onion, grated egg, sour cream and lemon, served with crisp melba toast and blinis

Traditional Arabic Mezze
The flavors of our home, presented as a generous spread of traditional Arabic savory dishes including fresh tabbouleh, baba ghanouj, creamy houmous, spinach marinated with yogurt, muhammara, moutabel and stuffed vine leaves, warm spinach fatayer, lamb kibbeh and cheese fatayer complemented by local garnishes and breads

Seared Tuna Steak
On a mixed green salad, served with sliced mango and a citrus dressing

Five-Spiced Chicken
Served with butternut squash purée, spinach and a sesame and soy mayonnaise

Seasonal Salad
Fresh salad leaves topped with cherry tomatoes, celery, olives and baby mozzarella
Served with your choice of dressing

Cream of Asparagus Soup
Garnished with sour cream and roasted almond flakes

Chicken Consommé
Accented with tomato brunoise and basil


MAIN COURSES

Chicken Machbous
Chicken marinated in aromatic spices and slow cooked with rice
Garnished with roasted pine nuts and served with a refreshing raita

Grilled Beef Fillet
Served with tarragon and garlic jus, mashed potatoes, buttered carrots and peas

Roast Salmon Fillet
Served with roasted pepper coulis, creamy polenta, sautéed broccoli and sugar snap peas

Mushroom Linguine
Topped with sautéed mushrooms, breadcrumbs and parmesan

Grilled Chicken
Served with orange demi-glace, roasted pumpkin and pea and potato purée

A La Carte Vegetable Selection
We also offer a variety of alternatives, including roasted potato with rosemary, sautéed spinach and red pepper, stir-fried vegetables and steamed basmati rice

Bread Basket
A variety of freshly baked rolls, Arabic and garlic breads


DESSERTS

Sticky Toffee Pudding
Served with caramel sauce and vanilla cream

Lemon and Raspberry Tart
Served with red fruit coulis

Seasonal Fruit
An assortment of freshly cut fruits

Cheese Board
A carefully chosen assortment of the finest boutique cheeses from around the world,
served with crudités, crackers, dried fruits and nuts

Chocolates
Fine luxury chocolates



Now that is one impressive menu! As a long time collector of international First Class airline menus, I don’t believe there’s another airline offering anywhere near the variety of foods that Emirates does. While some might argue that the amount of food offered here are excessive, I would submit that when you consider the cost of most international First Class tickets in either money or miles, it’s better to offer too much than not enough.

That said, after long and careful consideration of the many choices I informed Marianna that I’d like to start with a plate of caviar followed by an appetizer of Five-Spiced Chicken. A salad would be nice, thanks, and for the main course… I think I’ll go with the Chicken Machbous. I’ve often seen this dish listed on other menus and it’s about time I found out what exactly it is.

One of the nice things about these private suites is that you can leave your window shades up without the worry of bothering anyone else. I’ve always believed that windows were installed on planes for a reason and I generally like to take full advantage of the opportunity to enjoy the view from on high. Out my window the sun shone brightly, still high above the western horizon. I noted on the SkyMap that we were about 300 miles east of Lusaka, Zambia. What a great perch from which to enjoy a delicious lunch!

Two flight attendants were working the First Class cabin this afternoon and the second one, Hannah, stopped by now with my table settings. Crisp white linen was laid followed by an attractive gold rimmed serving plate and silverware. Emirates use Royal Doulton bone china plates with distinctive Robert Welch cutlery and I must say on the dining table the effect was most impressive. A small bread plate, salt and pepper shakers, butter and individual bottles of olive oil and balsamic vinegar came next, followed by a bounty of bread presented in a stylish white bowl. Very nice…




Emirates First Class Table Setting


The caviar arrived soon after, nicely plated with all the traditional accompaniments of chopped egg, onion, sour cream and lemon. Although three blinis were also included, I prefer the flavor combination of caviar and all the trimmings atop garlic bread. Mmm! Downright decadent!




The Caviar Course


Next up was the Five-Spiced Chicken. I was thankful that the portion size was not too large because for guys like me who like to indulge in each course of a First Class meal, it’s very easy to begin feeling full even before the main course arrives. The chicken was good – if a bit dry – but that was easily offset by dipping each bite in the accompanying mayonnaise and/or squash.




Five Spice Chicken


It’s hard to serve a bad salad – at least per my tastes. Once I’d removed the olives, this salad tasted very good with a generous splash of zesty balsamic vinegar and oil.




The Salad Course


Service proceeded smoothly with either Marianna or Hannah efficiently clearing off old plates and delivering new ones in a timely manner. By the time the main course was brought out, we were almost an hour and a half into the flight, speeding north over Mozambique at a sprightly 983 km/h.

So that’s Chicken Machbous! The menu writers did a good job of embellishing what is essentially a pile of rice and chicken topped with pine nuts. Although this meal may not have been all that visually appealing, it was actually pretty good. Knowing now what I do about Chicken Machbous, would I order it again while sat in international First Class? No. But I wouldn’t hesitate to try it again while sat in an earthbound café.




Chicken Machbous


Typically I never eat dessert at home or even while dining out but when it comes to First Class airline fare, my curiosity demands that I at least consider it. Once again I was appreciative of the smaller portions offered with each course of this meal. I wouldn’t say any of them were actually “small” per se but rather they were not too large and overbearing. The benefit of this was of course that I now had room for dessert.

So then – what’ll it be? Marianna waited patiently while I pondered over the choices… Let’s go with… the Sticky Toffee Pudding. When I grew up pudding was this soft creamy stuff that was apparently only available at the store. I never heard of anyone ever making homemade pudding. Instead, I and my sweet toothed peers were bombarded with television ads featuring the comedian Bill Cosby selling Jell-O brand puddings. I quite liked those puddings, too – especially the skin after it had just cooled. These days however, my more refined and experienced palate much prefers the taste and texture of a proper English pudding, especially one topped with caramel sauce and vanilla cream much as I was served today. Deee – licious!




Sticky Toffee Pudding


A cup of coffee and a small sampling of exquisitely silky Sauternes accompanied my pudding and helped bring this meal to a most satisfying close.

Well done, Emirates. Well done.


* * * _ * _ * * *


With about six hours still to go until we reached Dubai, I turned my attention to getting this flight logged and putting in some work on this trip report. I generally don’t spend much time watching movies on airplanes. Emirates’ excellent ICE inflight entertainment system and 23” screen notwithstanding, I’ve got a bigger and better screen back home. On the other hand, my laptop’s loaded with music I like and lots of fun projects to work on – like this trip report.

Well at this particular moment in time I hadn’t gotten any farther than writing about the first leg of my eleven day Amtrak extravaganza. We’re talking waaaaay back in late March, riding the Empire Builder between Chicago and Portland.

Some of you may recall me commenting earlier in this novella upon the importance of diligence and timely updates with regard to keeping up on written trip reports. Photo reporters can get away with more because the heavy lifting – in the form of their photographs – has already been done. So long as they continue to take photographs throughout their journey, they’re essentially caught up and current. All they have to do when they get ready to prepare their report - aside from adding a descriptive paragraph or two – is install the Vb code needed to display their photographs. Now that’s no small task in itself. I know because I have to do it for the over 300 photos that will ultimately compliment this report. And that’s after I finish writing and editing the report.

For us writers, the real work is in the written word. It ain’t always easy. Sometimes it takes me the better part of a rainy afternoon to come up with just a couple of paragraphs. I’m not some literary genius who can routinely and effortlessly churn out intelligent, relevant and entertaining prose. That would be eightblack! Sometimes I can but more often than not it’s pretty slow going for me.

Above all it’s important to do it as well as I can. I’m putting my work out there for public consumption and we’re not talking Ma and Pa Kettle types who limit their travel reading to Fodor’s guides. Rather my audience is comprised of savvy and experienced travelers from all over the world. None of you will ever justify sitting in Economy Class with the lame “We all get there at the same time” excuse. Rather, you truly appreciate the differences and benefits of premium class travel and are willing to do what it takes to put your selves there, be it playing the system via FFPs or paying the difference outright. Best of all, you actually seem to enjoy reading about it all. You’re my kind of audience and you deserve my best effort.

As for the timeliness of this report, I’m hoping you’ll give me a pass. When it comes to devoting well over one hundred hours to writing and completing an as yet incomplete trip report about travels that took place over six months earlier, many might throw up their hands in resignation and say “Why bother?”

I take pride not only in writing great trip reports but also in coming up with imaginative and entertaining itineraries. This is a great trip! Not only is it geographically diverse ranging the world over from Hawaii to Dubai but it also includes a fantastic rail tour around America as well as premium class flights aboard seven airlines as well as a variety of other spicy interludes. This is a trip well worth the time invested in describing it to you all and if you’ve bothered to read this far I should imagine you concur with that assessment.

And so here we are – me sitting here on a snowy Alaska afternoon in late November writing about me sitting aboard an Emirates 777 back in late April while writing about a train ride taken in late March.

Confused yet? Are you still with me? Well good! Hey – let’s take a short break, go out and grab a bite to eat and then come back and continue. While you’re at it you might want to refill your glass with whatever it is you’re drinking. I always get a kick out of reading posts from those of you who’ve mentioned accompanying my reports with an outstanding assortment of exceptional wines, scotches and other spirits. I am honored that anyone might deem my reports worthy of such distinction. Thank you.

As for me, I’m sticking with the old tried and true – a glass of Woodford Reserve on ice. It’s as good here at home this afternoon as it was while pecking away from the comfort of my First Class suite nearly seven months ago.




November 22, 2015



April 29, 2015


* * * _ * _ * * *


Like I was saying, there’s a reason they put windows on commercial jetliners. Those who routinely close their window shades and disappear into the artificial world of digitized entertainment often miss out on some spectacular displays of natural splendor right outside their windows.

I selected suite 2A on this flight because it was on the westward facing side of the aircraft and I wanted to be in position to enjoy a nice sunset if it should happen. Here are the results:




Sunset off the coast of Somalia



Sunset off the coast of Somalia



Sunset off the coast of Somalia



Sunset off the coast of Somalia



Sunset off the coast of Somalia


Time flies when you’re having fun. Over the next four hours I put in some quality time on this trip report, took a couple of strolls to the back of the airplane (Did you know that the 777-300’s passenger cabin is 7 feet longer than that of the 747-400?) and tried my luck on the trivia game that’s part of the ICE games selections. As a guy who’s enjoyed keeping up on current events ever since I was a kid, I usually do pretty well at these trivia contests with the exception of pop culture. Today was no different as I set some records that ought to stick around for quite a while or at the very least until the system gets reset later this evening.

Hannah had informed me earlier in the flight that hot food items could be ordered and served up to an hour and a half prior to arrival in Dubai. Taking her at her word, I arranged to have my second meal served as late as possible. Hannah recommended ordering in advance to better ensure that my selections would be available, so I once again reached for the menu and considered the possibilities…


LIGHT BITES

Sandwiches
Salmon with guacamole, roasted beef with tomato, chicken with sundried tomato cream, and mozzarella with tomato and pesto

Hot Meal Selection

Cottage Pie
Meat pie with a mashed potato topping

Tomato and Mozzarella Quiche
Served with tomato pesto, grilled marrow and aubergine

Red Chicken Curry
Served with steamed jasmine rice

Dessert

Petits Fours
Fruit tartlet, mocha mousse, lemon tartlet and chocolate mousse


HOT DRINKS

Tea
Chamomile, Ceylon, Earl Grey or Green

Coffee
Freshly brewed or Nespresso (espresso, cappuccino or decaffeinated)


I decided to start with another round of canapés – both hot and cold – followed by a plate of Red Chicken Curry. As for dessert, I think a cup of mint tea ought to hit the spot. Hannah returned now with linens and place settings, so I quickly shut down my laptop and prepared for the second meal. A Bloody Mary was delivered, followed shortly by the canapés.

I don’t know about you all, but I love finger foods! It doesn’t matter whether I’m earthbound or flying high, canapés and hors d’oeuvres are second only to the main course when it comes to my favorite part of the meal, Most airlines don’t come around with trays of canapés during cocktail hour anymore, but back when they did my favorites were Air New Zealand and Aerolineas Argentinas. Both of those airlines put on a real show with all manner of delectable tidbits presented atop large silver trays. Closer to home, United’s Pu Pu Platters on its Royal Hawaiian Service flights to the Islands were also worth looking forward to, especially when accompanied by United’s delicious Trader Vic’s Mai Tais or Menehune Juice cocktails. Anyone here remember those?




Cocktails and Canapés – Round 2

Back home in Fairbanks, Alaska we have thirteen Thai restaurants. Al but four of them are full service facilities, complete with comfortable seating, ornate Thai decorations and most importantly – excellent Thai food. Anyway, the point I’m making here is that I’ve eaten a lot of Thai food over the years, including quite a few curries – always warm and filling on a cold winter day.

The curry I was served today was okay in a TV dinner kind of way – a decent enough presentation and just enough curry in it to where you could discern that curry was indeed one of the ingredients. Some might say it was very good. If I sound less than enthusiastic it’s because over the years I’ve come to appreciate the power of a good curry everywhere from Fiji to Kuala Lumpur to London and, per my tastes at least, it is best appreciated when employed in quantities sufficient to warm you up.




Red Chicken Curry


As with all of the world’s best airlines, one of the hallmarks of great service is attention to detail. This is often evidenced from the time you check-in right on through the smallest service request inflight. The presentation of my tea at the end of the meal was a good example of this. With the flight winding down and the cabin crew eager to button up the galley, some airlines might simply have delivered me a nice cup of hot tea to end my meal. Marianna set out a beautiful tea service complete with a small plate of cookies.




A nice ending to the flight


The lights of Dubai twinkled in the distance as we made our approach through layers of small puffy clouds. The Skymap indicated that even at 10000’ the temperature outside was a balmy 62°F. Hmm… I wonder how warm it is atop the 2,722’ high Burj Khalifa?

The Captain initiated a final big turn and, following some minor course adjustments soon had us lined up for final. A glance at my watch indicated that the pre-flight estimate of seven hours and fifty-six minutes was spot on. Sweeping over the threshold, our wheels gently kissed the tarmac at 11:58pm local time. The Supercarb® carbon and carbon composite brake discs efficiently slowed us from a landing speed of approximately 165 mph to a much more manageable taxi speed of about 15 mph. In the distance a 747-400 freighter looked quite striking with the large golden script of Emirates’ livery gracing its forward fuselage. I would like to have seen how Emirates’ First Class might have translated into the nose of a 747 – still my all-time favorite platform for premium class air travel. Unfortunately Emirates operate only the cargo version of Boeing’s iconic jumbo.

We parked over at Terminal B where the crack night crew was ready and waiting for us at gate B22. The jetway was quickly and efficiently attached and, after thanking Marianna and Hanna for a job well done, I made my way off the aircraft and up the modern glass walled jet bridge.

Looking back, this flight epitomized the splendor of international caliber First Class air travel in every respect: A spacious and comfortable suite, a delicious meal and a relaxing and productive midflight experience - all highlighted by caring and attentive service. Add to that a smooth flight along with the spectacular sunset and this flight comes very close to scoring a perfect 10.

Well done, Emirates! Well done!