Aman Sveti Stefan
This was our first Aman and I was really looking forward to staying there.
At first we only booked three nights in a Deluxe cottage and then later extended to 4 nights and as soon as a Deluxe Cottage with a terrace became available upgraded to that category by paying the price difference. All of these changes included a lot of paperwork. Each time we had to provide them with a new credit card authorization form and some other paper work. They aplogized a few times for all the paperwork which was due to government regulations. That is what they said at least. Once we were at Aman Sveti Stefan we decided to stay one more night. So we eventually ended up staying 5 nights in total. That was great because I think 3 nights would have been way too short to fully enjoy the hotel. I can’t remember for sure what the Virtuoso benefits were but I think it was free lunch once during our stay, upgrade based on availability, free breakfast not only continental breakfast but whatever there was on the menu and late check out.
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Check-In
Included in the room rate is a complimentary transfer to an from Tivat airport. Tivat airport is the closest airport to the hotel about a 40 minutes drive away. Transfers from other airports for instance Dubrovnik and Podgorica are available too but they are not free of charge. I think Dubrovnik is about 300 euros one way. The driver was already waiting for us when we arrived and drove us to the hotel in a newish Audi A8. He did not really say much because he said his English is not very good. We did not mind at all but what I found interesting is that quite a few of the hotel’s employees speak no English or very few words but there was always somebody to help them out. As soon as we arrived we were warmly welcomed by the GM and other staff members. We were also given a short tour of the hotel and its history. I really liked that short hotel tour a lot.
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Room
We were assigned room 38 which I think is probably one of the nicest or maybe even the nicest Deluxe Cottage with a terrace on the entire Island. It basically sits at the top of the island right next to a church on the one side and the Adriatic Suite on the other side. From the terrace you have a great view to Villa Miločer and the other beaches. The view is absolutely fantastic. I think the bathroom is also quite unique with its curved ceiling. And if I am not mistaken Aman is using this room as an example for a Deluxe Cottage with terrace in their brochure and on their website. For our last night we moved to room number 12 which is a Deluxe Cottage. It is much larger inside with a separate living room and a bathroom downstairs. What I definitely remember was that the shower in that room was nowhere near as nice as the rain forest shower which we had in room 38. And if I am allowed to be nitpicking then storage space in room 38 is very limited but apart from that I would not have wanted to stay anywhere else. As I said it is probably the best Cottage they have. At first I was a bit apprehensive about the rooms on the island because I thought they look very basic and rustic. I almost wanted to stay at Villa Miločer because those rooms are much more contemporary at least from what you could see based on the pictures. But once I was at Aman Sveti Stefan I thought the Cottages on the island are just great the way they are. There really is nothing else that you would need to have in your Cottage and there are so many things to do, you anyway spend very little time in your room.
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Facilities
There are 3 pools in total. Two on the Island and one at the Spa. The cliff pool and bar was closed during our stay. There are also 3 beaches in total. One right next to the hotel, one in front of Villa Miločer and there is Queens beach. That is also where the Spa is. Queens beach is by far the nicest beach because you can make use of all the facilities at the Spa and they can also serve you food and drinks. At the beach right next to the the hotel you will only be served water. It can take quite some time to get your drinks and food at Queens beach because they have to go and get it at Villa Miločer or somewhere near there. Transfers to Queens beach and to the Spa are done by the hotel cars which are also used for transfers and excursions. Sometimes we had to wait quite some time for a car to be available. Once they completely forgot about us and at one point we had to wait so long that they eventually took us to the Spa in the GM’s private car.
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Spa
The Spa really makes Aman Sveti Stefan even better than what it already was without the Spa. I had a facial, haircut and a massage with a bath.
I liked all of it and what was nice is that they always seemed to have treatments available even at short notice. After the massage I used the Sauna and steamroom which I had all to myself. The treatment rooms are big and you get your own bathroom and changing facilities. The sauna/steam room was on there other side of the Spa. I think they have two or three of those in total.
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Food/Beverage
Food is very good but not outstanding. I think there are three restaurants. Aman the restaurant on the island, a restaurant at Villa Miločer and the Piazza on the island. Unfortunately during our stay Piazza was only open during the day. It closed at 6pm every day. That was quite a bummer because I think they have got some great dishes. Their food is more casual with pizza, tapas, antipasti and a few other things. Breakfast is also served at the Piazza. The menu at the restaurant at Villa Miločer is very similar to the one at Aman restaurant. Only a few dishes are different. Five nights was enough to eat all the dishes I wanted to eat. If you plan on staying for more than 5 nights I would not know what to eat anymore. I think they should maybe think about having something like a Special of the day in order to make the menu a bit more interesting. Or even add a few Asian dishes to mix things up a bit.
I asked the hotel to send me their wine list before our arrival and saw that they have quite a small wine list with mostly regional wines. That somehow made me worry a bit but it turned out that the wines from the Balkans are great. I really enjoyed tasting something I haven’t had before.
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Service
Service was generally good but as this was my first Aman I was looking forward to why Aman is so special to a lot of flyertalk members. But honestly it did not feel any different to the service I received at most 5 star hotels I have been to. I thought that service was often unpolished and at times I got the impression that they did not really know what they were doing. It was little things but service was inconsistent. A few of the staff members went out of their way for instance would they remember what I liked or ask me how the excursion was the day before. Others did not even know in which room I was staying. Sometimes they made us sign bills, sometimes they did not. And sometimes they opened the door of the car and again sometimes they did not. There was one guy for instance at Queens beach who would be standing ready at the beach with a fresh towel for anyone who gets out of the water. He was literally standing next to the water. I mean how great is that. But the next day that guy was gone and there was nobody to hand you a new towel. Its not that this bothered me that much but that just shows that service was somehow inconsistent. And I also thought that the hotel does not have what I call a proactive service approach which I can find at a lot of hotels in Asia. We were awaiting a parcel with important spare parts. Somehow the parcel was stuck with customs so I went to the front desk to ask them if they could call the local courier. They called but said that the number was busy. Now at other hotels they would say that they would call again and try to get hold of somebody and sort it out. He basically gave me the piece of paper with the number back and said I am sorry. Or when I wanted to settle our account the day before departure I was told that unfortunately everyone is busy with Check-In's and they asked me whether I would mind coming back later to pay the bill.
Overall thoughts
It is a great property in a stunning setting. Definitely one of the best places to enjoy a relaxing beach holiday in Europe. Service is probably not comparable to an Aman hotel in Asia but after all the hotel is in the Balkans. Not a place known for its world class service. I would definitely go back in a heartbeat and June is a great time to go because its no that busy and hot yet but still more than warm enough to take a swim and eat outside.
One evening we also visited Porto Montenegro. A new development in Tivat. It reminded me a little bit of the V&A Waterfront in Cape Town.
There is the newly opened Regent Hotel, plenty of restaurants and some shops. The architecture and style of the Regent is definitely debatable but nevertheless I was very impressed by their food and service.
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We also did book an excursion to Kotor and some other island with a church on it through Aman. It was good but pricey at 440 euros for 5 hours.
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And now to some celebrity spotting. I knew I know this guy who had breakfast next to us one morning from somewhere. After some googling I found out it was Dan Bilzerian. If I am not wrong that is the guy who threw a prostitute off a roof. He actually jumped into the water from the terrace at Aman restaurant. Crazy!
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