March 16, 2010
San Francisco – Hong Kong
Cathay Pacific First Class
Boeing 777-300 B-KPE Seat 1K
105p – 705p Flight time: 14:01
Anyone who’s ever flown International First Class and loved the experience knows the anticipation that accompanies each and every subsequent trip. After all, it’s not every day that you get to be treated like royalty, your every whim graciously attended to while you recline in a $90,000 suite that provides a large, spacious seat by day and a wide, comfortable bed at night.
Be it relaxing with a glass of Champagne in the First Class Lounge before the flight or enjoying a sumptuous seven course meal during the flight, International First Class aboard airlines like Cathay Pacific represents the epitome of inflight luxury. It is air travel at its most refined and the prospect of returning to its rarified realm has had me giddy for days.
My day started with a thirty minute ride on CalTrain from Santa Clara to Milbrae followed by a ten minute ride on the BART train to San Francisco International. The airport train station is conveniently located just outside the International Terminal, so I had only a short walk before presenting myself at Cathay’s First Class check-in counter. My pack was quickly bagged and tagged while I was handed boarding cards and lounge invitations for both San Francisco and Hong Kong.
Soon I was through security and making my way down the A Concourse towards Cathay’s First Class lounge at A4. Eh – wot’s this? Cathay’s using the British Airways Terraces Lounge! I must say that I found this a bit disappointing since BA’s Terraces facility is essentially a Business Class lounge. The attached “First Class Lounge” is no more than a very small room with couches and a big screen TV. The food and drink offerings are no different than those offered in the main Business Class lounge and frankly, in terms of overall ambience, I prefer the brighter and more cheerful Terraces lounge.
BA’s Terraces Lounge at SFO
A nice selection of beers and spirits was located at the far end of the lounge, so I grabbed an ice cold bottle of Sierra Nevada Pale Ale and then headed over to inspect the food options. Alas, there wasn’t much. Aside from the usual prepackaged portions of cheese, crackers, cookies and chips I found only a heated tray of Vienna sausages that had been wrapped in pastry. Pigs in a blanket. Also available were packaged noodle bowls. Just add hot water.
Boarding was called at 12:30pm, so I quickly gathered my gear and headed upstairs to the departure level. This was to be my first ever flight aboard a 777-300 and I was anxious to get onboard and start enjoying the pre-departure amenities, chief amongst them a welcoming glass (or two) of Krug Champagne.
I have read accounts of travel on other airlines where regardless of class flown, the boarding process is akin to a cattle drive. Thankfully, Cathay Pacific’s operation at SFO is handled properly. Not only was there a separate line for First and Business Class passengers, but we also had our own dedicated jetway. As such, boarding was accomplished without hassle, allowing me to stroll down the jetway unimpeded as if I owned the place.
At the doorway were two smiling Flight Attendants, either of whom could have modeled nicely for the cardboard cutouts of smiling FAs that Cathay likes to post outside its lounges. I was warmly welcomed aboard, my boarding card was inspected and I was then handed off to “Michelle” who led me across the galley, then left into the First Class cabin.
Cathay’s 777-300ERs offer just eight of the next generation First Class suites, arranged in two rows of 1-2-1. My suite 1K was the forward most suite on the right. Although it was located immediately aft of the First Class galley, Suite 2K was located immediately forward of the much busier Business Class galley. Regardless, I wanted a seat on the right side of the aircraft because that’s where all the best scenery is. More on that in a bit though.
Although I had read about Cathay’s new First Class suites in various trip reports and of course taken the virtual tour on Cathay’s website, there is no substitute for seeing the real thing right there in front of you. The new suites are marvelously spacious, comfortable and private. Although they don’t offer the complete privacy of sliding doors such as those found aboard airlines like Emirates and Jet Airways, Cathay’s suites nonetheless provide an outstanding level of privacy with their high, wrap around walls combined with the staggered seating arrangement.
(The following photos were taken from aboard one of Cathay’s 747s. The suites are the same as those aboard the 777 and I use these pictures here because of their superior quality.)
Entering the suite I found a large, comfortable seat that was almost three feet wide.
Cathay Pacific’s new First Class suite
Cathay Pacific’s new First Class suite
Inside the seat was a rolling massage function that I found quite pleasing throughout the flight. Although a large, firm pillow had been placed on the seat, Michelle let me know that more pillows were available should I so desire. She then provided a brief tour of the suite, starting with the spacious closet which was wide and deep enough to hang three or four jackets with plenty of room leftover for my shoes. The television screen was huge, approximately 16” diagonally. Although it appeared to be mounted in the suite wall just left of center to the seat, it was actually attached to a hinged arm allowing it to be brought out and centered closer to the seat.
Cathay Pacific’s First Class TV monitor
In the sidewall next to the seat was a table that was large enough to comfortably handle a typical Cathay Pacific feast or serve as a work desk with plenty of room for a laptop and papers. An electrical socket suitable to North American plugs was mounted just behind the table. In addition to an overhead light, two small swivel lamps were mounted at shoulder height on each side of the seat. Noise reducing headphones were located in their own compartment to the right of the seat, along with a handheld television controller that included a telephone on the back. Three windows allowed for lots of natural light. This would be my home for the next fourteen hours.
My home aboard Cathay Pacific
What better way to celebrate moving into your new home than with a glass of Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne? Michelle was only too happy to bring me a glass, presented on a tray with the bottle and poured at my seat. She returned moments later with an amenity kit. Noticeably absent was the amuse bouché that used to be offered with pre-departure drinks.
Over the next fifteen minutes, the rest of my First Class traveling companions filtered into the cabin. One nicely dressed gentleman was well acquainted with one of the Flight Attendants and from what I overheard of their conversation, it was apparent that he flew First Class on Cathay fairly often. As for me, it’s been a five year absence. As I sipped my exquisitely chilled Champagne, I offered a silent toast to Alaska Airlines’ Mileage Plan which made my return to Cathay’s First Class possible. With one way airfares to Hong Kong exceeding $10,000 each way, I would never be sitting here were it not for mileage awards. It sure felt good to be back.
Pushback was right on time. The Captain came on over the PA with the usual greetings and informed us that our projected flight time to Hong Kong would be thirteen hours and forty-one minutes. Based upon the scheduled departure and arrival times reflecting a journey of fifteen hours, I felt a little short changed. Hopefully we’ll run into some good, stiff headwinds!
As we taxied out to the runway, I was surprised at how little engine noise I heard. My only flights aboard 777s prior to this were aboard the shorter -200 model. On that airplane, the engines are much closer to the First Class cabin, so the engine noise, particularly on climb out, is significantly more noticeable. Looking out my window, I couldn’t even see the engine and could barely make out the wingtip. I also noted that the two aircraft taxiing out ahead of us were 777s from Asiana and Korean. What a colorful triumvirate we made as we lined up for takeoff!
It was a bright sunny day in the Bay Area and as we soared into the clear blue skies and turned slightly to the north, those of us on the right side of the aircraft were treated to pretty views of San Francisco Bay and its surrounding communities. Meanwhile, the SkyMap provided the most detailed and varied perspectives on our flight that I have ever seen aloft, starting with a view that appeared to have come from Google Earth showing the San Francisco airport in its entirety below us. Various views then showed animated renditions of our 777 from the top, the side and the rear with projected paths of flight over the immediate area up to and including the planet as a whole. Awesome!
777 Sky Map view upon departing SFO
Sky Map time and distance upon departing SFO
Fourteen minutes into the flight, as we passed through 28,000 feet, the Wine List and Luncheon Menu were presented. Unlike on some airlines where the Flight Attendant simply hands you a menu from a stack, as if she were handing out test booklets, this Flight Attendant, Christopher, presented first the wine list and later the menu by opening each to its correct page before bestowing it upon us. Doing so in this fashion is representative of the little touches that make flying on Cathay Pacific and a select few other airlines such a special and pleasurable experience.
As a collector and indeed aficionado of First Class menus, I’ve always appreciated the quality and presentation that goes into Cathay’s menus and wine lists. The covers feature photography of food or wine designed to heighten the anticipation of the epicurean delights to follow, and the wine list in particular offers excellent descriptions of the various wines offered. Today’s wine list also included an insert offering a more detailed description of this month’s featured wine, the Bouchard Pere & Fils Morgon. But enough palaver! Let’s have a look at that list…
Wine List SFO-HKG Exterior
Wine List SFO-HKG Interior
WINE LIST
Champagne
Krug Grande Cuvée Champagne
White Wines
Wente Riva Ranch Chardonnay 2006
Henri de Villamont Meursault 2005
Red Wines
Chateau Lynch Bages 2003
Bouchard Pere & Fils Morgon 2009
Felipe Rutini Reserve Malbec 2006
Port
Ramos Pinto Quinta da Ervamoira 10 Year Old Tawny Port
Cognac
Tesseron Lot 76 XO Tradition
Whiskies
Chivas Regal 12 Years Old, Johnnie Walker Blue Label, Canadian Club, Gentleman Jack Bourbon, Glenfiddich Ancient Reserve Single Malt Whisky
Hmmm… I was tempted to start with a glass of Johnnie Walker Blue Label, a Scotch that retails for over $230.00 per bottle back home in Fairbanks. Still, it seemed a bit early in the day – I tend to like my Scotch or Bourbon just before dinner – so I decided to go with a glass of the Wente Riva Ranch Chardonnay. We were, after all, taking off from one of the preeminent wine growing regions in the world and though I’m not much of a white wine drinker, this was the only wine on the menu from California. I placed considerable faith in Cathay’s Wine Consultants that it would be a good choice. It was.
My wine was delivered with a small plate of cashews. As I sipped its golden goodness, I reached for the luncheon menu and perused the choices for this afternoon’s feast:
Menu SFO-HKG Exterior
Menu SFO-HKG Interior
LUNCHEON
San Francisco to Hong Kong
Caviar and Balik Salmon Delight
Oscietra Caviar and Balik Salmon “Tsar Nicolaj”
Served with Warm New Potatoes and Crème Fraiche
Soup
Fennel and apple soup with caramelized fennel and dill
Salad
Mesclun salad with tear drop tomatoes, cranberries and pecans
Served with Olive Oil and Balsamic Vinaigrette
Bread Basket
Assorted Bread and Rolls
** ***** **
INTERNATIONAL FAVOURITES
Grilled Prime New York Steak
With fingerling potatoes, young zucchini, carrots, beets, shallots and garlic
Lobster and Crab Ravioli
With roasted red pepper coulis and balsamic glazed asparagus
CHINESE FAVORITES
Starters
Pork with Mountain Yam and Wolfberries Soup
Cold Plate ~ Marinated gluten with cucumber
Kung Po Chicken
or
Stir-fried Seafood
Served with steamed rice and stir-fried mixed vegetables
** ***** **
CHEESE AND DESSERT
Cambozola, Yellow Cheddar, Munster and Herb Goat Cheese
Fresh seasonal berries with cream
Bread and butter pudding with vanilla ice cream and chocolate sauce
Black sesame dessert
TEA and COFFEE
Pralines
One of the highlights of any long flight aboard Cathay Pacific is their caviar and salmon presentation.
In fact, I don’t believe I’ve been served caviar since the last time I flew Cathay Pacific back in May of 2005. I was very much looking forward to reacquainting myself with this tasty tradition. As to the rest of the what I ordered, well, I don’t know what fennel is but its combination with apple and dill in a soup sounded a bit extreme for my tastes so I passed on the soup and requested a salad instead. As for the main course, I generally believe in eating foods most commonly prepared and served in the region from which we just departed. That meant a New York Steak for me. As for cheese and dessert, well, we’ll cross that tasty bridge when we come to it.
As I’ve done in a couple of my past trip reports, I decided to time the delivery of each segment of the meal service. The idea here is to demonstrate how relaxed and unhurried a proper International caliber service is. Whereas back in Economy and even in many Business Classes the meals are served all at once on a tray, in the best First Class cabins the meals are served course by course with the pace dictated by the passenger, not the cabin crew. Following is the breakdown of this afternoon’s beverage and meal presentation:
0:14 Menu and Wine List Presented
0:19 Drink order taken
0:21 Drink presented
0:38 Meal order taken
0:58 Table set and drink refreshed
1:05 Caviar and salmon served
1:18 Salad served
1:35 Steak served
2:06 Cheese and port served
2:37 Dessert served
2:39 Coffee served
3:02 Table cleared
Back in the day (1981), I once enjoyed a full caviar service from the cart while flying First Class aboard a Braniff 727 between New York and Dallas. Following the caviar were salad and a roast carved from the trolley. These days very few airlines still serve caviar, either due to cost of doing so or the drastically reduced availability of good caviar due to environmental contamination and/or over harvesting of sturgeon in the Caspian Sea and other regional fishing holes.
Although we did not get to enjoy the flair of a trolley service this afternoon, we were nonetheless presented with a nice plate of caviar and salmon accompanied by the full complement of proper accoutrements such as chopped egg whites, yolks and onions along with sour cream and toast points.
Salmon and Caviar SFO-HKG
To the uninitiated, caviar tastes like salty mush. The Russians like it with vodka. I tried that once and found that I prefer my vodka mixed with tomato juice and spices. With caviar, I like to first spread a layer of sour cream on the toast, then top it with a good amount of caviar topped with all the accompaniments. Mmmm…! I’ve definitely developed a taste for those little black eggs.
The salad came next – a delicious combination of mesclun leaf with tomatoes, cranberries and pecans. I like nuts in a salad, and though I’m not particularly fond of the usual fruit additions like mandarin oranges or pears, I thought those little dried cranberries augmented the overall flavor of the salad very nicely.
Salad SFO-HKG
Anybody who’s eaten steak on an airplane knows that of all the meats, steak is the most likely to be hit or miss. Actually, I take that back. I once had a pheasant entrée aboard Aerolineas Argentinas that had all the consistency of jerky. Quail is another meat that more often than not does not fare well in airline ovens. So allow me to amend that assessment to say of all the red meats, steak is, from my experience, the most likely to suffer. (Honestly, folks… what other trip reporter gives you this kind of detail and insight!?)
The steak I was served was actually cooked medium and in terms of texture came out fairly well. Unfortunately, it just didn’t have the thickness and accompanying fat that a typical New York sirloin should have. As a result the taste, while decent as accented by the accompanying gravy, did not taste anything like a restaurant quality New York strip steak. Still, it was reasonably moist and tender and the accompanying potatoes and garlic made for an appetizing plate of food.
Steak SFO-HKG
By the way, for those of you who say an airline can’t prepare and serve a proper steak, I’m here to tell you otherwise. I’ve eaten a lot of steaks in my time and though I grant the airlines a fair bit of leniency when it comes to serving reheated food, I will say that on two occasions – both of them on Continental many years ago – I was served steaks that tasted like restaurant quality meat. It can be done! The question is how to do so consistently. I submit that it all starts with a decent cut of meat. That, more than any other factor, is where most airlines go wrong.
Roight then, on to the cheese course. I was actually pretty full from the caviar, salmon, salad and approximately 10oz of steak plus veggies. Still, I don’t get to enjoy a nice post-meal cheese service all that often. Sigh… Oh sure, why not? Somehow Michelle talked me into a plate with a bit of everything, so I responded with a request for a glass of Port. I mean what the hey – if you’re gonna go whole hog then go for it!
Cheese and Port Service SFO-HKG
For what it’s worth, I didn’t finish all of my cheese – especially the goat cheese which I didn’t care for – but regardless by that point I was well and truly stuffed. Dessert? Maybe later. Are you surrrre???? YES! So playful, Michelle… I hated to turn her down but I was so full that by now I had a much better understanding of why the Romans had vomitoriums.
By the time the last of my plates were cleared, there were still over ten and a half hours left in the flight. According to the SkyMap, we were off the coast of Alaska flying just south of Juneau. Not that you’d know it looking out the window where solid clouds obscured all traces of land and water below. If ever there were a good time for a movie, it was now.
Judging from the reports submitted by many of FlyerTalk’s most prolific premium class travelers, Cathay Pacific’s Studio CX may not be the finest inflight entertainment system in the industry. That honor apparently goes to Singapore’s Wiseman or whatever Emirates is offering on its newest aircraft. Still, unless you require ridiculously extensive amounts of movies and music, Studio CX offers more than enough music and films to satisfy most normal people. I found a number of movies that I’d like to watch, first and foremost George Clooney’s Oscar nominated masterpiece “Up In The Air”.
What can I say? Like any frequent flyer who’s logged over 4000 flights and close to 4 million miles, I could easily relate to most everything that Clooney’s character described over the course of the movie, including how I evaluate my fellow travelers in line at the security checkpoints. Stereotyping? Sure. But so what? It is what it is and they are what they are. As for Vera Farmiga, I’ve had a crush on her ever since her role in “The Departed”. She is welcome to join me on any of my future flights…
The principal reason why I chose to sit on the right side of the airplane was to get a glimpse of home as I flew overhead. Alaska is a stunningly beautiful state, and to see it from the air only enhances that perspective. Of course, on a flight of nearly 7000 miles, there’s a lot of other beautiful scenery as well. From past experience on two Vancouver to Hong Kong flights, I knew to keep an eye out for the beautiful Aleutian archipelago as well as the spectacular mountain landscapes of the Kamchatka Peninsula. Knowing full well that I was crossing over some of Alaska’s most scenic lands while in the middle of watching “Up In The Air”, I was ever so thankful for the pause button on my controller which allowed me to raise my window shade and take in the following vista:
A nice view of Alaska
As ever, I was the only one enjoying the amazing vista outside my window. Indeed, the First Class cabin was entirely dark aside from my presumably annoying open window. Mind you, I’m generally pretty respectful of people’s preferences for the dark when the time calls for it, such as whenever people’s natural circadian rhythms would have them asleep. In this case however, we had departed San Francisco at 1:15pm and it was now the equivalent of 5:45pm. Who the heck is that sleepy, and if they are, that’s why the pajamas set includes eyeshades. Otherwise, for any of you that find yourselves getting annoyed at someone who opens their window in the middle of the day in order to enjoy the view, consider that they put all of those windows in airplanes for a reason. Take a moment to stop and check out the scenery once in a while. It’s just as fulfilling as stopping to sniff the proverbial roses.
Raise your window shade once in a while!
I hate to sleep on daytime flights, especially when sat in International First Class. As such I set up for a viewing of “The Godfather”, a movie I first watched as a 13 year old in the Bedford Playhouse in 1971. Even though I’ve seen it a couple of times since, with nearly eight more hours to go until Hong Kong, now seemed like a good time to revisit this Francis Ford Coppola classic. To accompany the movie, I requested some coffee and a plate of fresh seasonal berries with cream. Ah, the life…
Fresh seasonal berries with cream
Here’s the mid-flight snack menu:
SNACKS
Maryland Crab Cakes
Offered with Tartar Sauce
Smoked Chicken Panini
Served with Mesclun Salad
Wontons with Noodle in Soup
Hot Pot Rice with Minced Pork Patty
Served with chicken broth with water chestnut and mushrooms
Understandably I wasn’t all that hungry, although I did utilize parts of this menu to augment my dinner selections later in the flight. More on that at dinner time though. After The Godfather ended, I took a walk all the way to the very back of the plane. The 777-300 is a long airplane, longer even than the 747 inside. Aside from the exercise benefits, I like to take that walk to the back of the plane just so that I don’t lose touch with the fact that although I’m comfortably ensconced in a $90,000.00 First Class Suite, there are approximately 250 people sitting just behind me who are in decidedly less comfortable surroundings. Not that I feel sorry for them, mind you. I mean, if I did I’d probably bring back some cashews or whipped cream to dole out. No, they’ve made their purchase and they’ll just have to live with it. As for me, I don’t like to ever forget my roots because those same roots remain my very essence to this day. I mean hey – I still sleep in airports and live in a cabin without water. And seriously, no, I would never insult the less fortunate back in steerage by tossing them First Class crumbs although I did once bestow some First Class almonds upon a friend of mind stuck back in coach on an Alaska Airlines flight way back when Alaska still served almonds up front. We still laugh about that to this day.
It should be noted here that a walk even halfway towards the back of the plane will provide ample evidence of just how distinctive Cathay Pacific’s First Class is relative to its Business Class product. In this day and age where many airlines have improved their Business Class to such an extent that the differences between Business and First are increasingly blurred, Cathay Pacific has maintained a substantial margin between the comfort, meals and amenities offered in the two classes. Anyone who says there’s not that much difference between Business and First Class on Cathay is just plain wrong! On my walk back through Business Class, I took a moment to sit in an empty Business Class seat. Without question Cathay’s Business Class seat is a big improvement on the 3-3-3 seating found in Economy Class, but I found the seat seriously claustrophobic compared to First Class. No thank you! Call me spoiled if you like. I prefer to think of it as incredibly fortunate that in a total of twelve flights dating back to 1987, I’ve never flown in anything but First Class on Cathay Pacific. That’s one streak I hope to maintain as long as possible.
Although most of my fellow passengers chose to have their dinner served 3-4 hours out of Hong Kong, I waited until we were just two hours out. First though, I requested a glass of Johnnie Walker Blue Label to savor whilst perusing the menu:
DINNER
Starter
Fresh seasonal fruit
MAIN COURSES
Pan-Roasted Chicken Breast with Tomato and Basil Sauce
Presented with pearl couscous, asparagus and baby carrots
Rainbow Beef
Served with steamed rice, pak choy, mushrooms and carrots
Dungeness Crab Cannelloni
With roasted red pepper coulis and sautéed Swiss chard
CHEESE AND DESSERT
Cambozola, Yellow Cheddar, Munster and Herb Goat Cheese
Cherry Crumble with whipped cream
TEA and COFFEE
Pralines
For whatever reason, a fruit plate just didn’t sound all that appealing as a starter – especially after a glass of Scotch – so I raided the Snacks menu for a starter of Maryland Crab Cakes. I got a sense that Michelle may have thought I was over doing it a bit on the food but I’m like, hey – First Class service and meals like this only happen to me once in a blue moon, if that. So live it up, baby! Speaking of which, may I have a glass of Champagne to go with those crab cakes, please?
Maryland Crab Cakes SFO-HKG
After having just watched the Godfather, I almost chose the cannelloni for my main course but ultimately decided to follow the crab cakes with a Chinese dish called Rainbow Beef. This was a good choice although it was extremely mild in flavor. Cathay does provide a small dish of hot paste with its meals but it’s no substitute for the exquisite flavor resulting from cooked in heat.
Rainbow Beef SFO-HKG
Soon we were on our descent into HKG. Hong Kong is a beautiful city to fly into. Unfortunately tonight’s weather consisted of low clouds and light rain. Like a pilot on ILF, I had to entertain myself with the heads up display on the SkyMap and trust that this 777 was equipped for Category 3 landings. It was. We landed rather solidly and, after a flight of just fourteen hours and one minute, the initial leg of my journey to Africa had come to an end.
The verdict: Flying doesn’t get much better than this!
Complaints: If only the flight were a bit longer…
Next up: A five hour layover and a twelve and a half hour flight to Johannesburg.
Note for aspiring Trip Reporters: I’ve just written 4,500+ words about a single flight. And to think I could have just published a collection of photos and written perhaps 500 words. As a reader, which would you prefer? Should I shorten these reports? For that matter, how many of you are even still reading this report?! I wouldn’t be surprised if a good number of the newbies got bored stiff and nodded off pages ago… That’s alright – I imagine most of you hard core readers who always comment on my reports are still out there, enjoying whatever libation you’ve chosen to accompany the read. As you must surely know, I enjoy writing for an appreciative audience as much as I do for myself so all this effort fueled by seven beers on a rainy night in South Africa is as much for yourselves and your past support as it is for me. Cheers!