India - the Spice Forest
We are now at the Shalimar Spice Garden resort in a village called Murikkady, 6 kms from Thekkady on the fringes of the Periyar Tiger Reserve. Yes I said tiger preserve. Since this -is- a yip tour you should all be lighting candles for us. You know who is infamous for trekking along the untrodden path and in this case there really are things that go bump in the night!
We have had a full day so far. Ashley was up and out again at 6:15A for some more bird watching next door to the Taj in Kottoyam. He took advantage of the little time we had left to do some exploring on his own without the guide. I stayed in and packed - taking my time saying goodbye to the plush deluxe suite, gobbling down the last of the white chocolate. Then we were off to our last breakfast - a buffet with the usual corn flakes, muffins, cheese Danish, plus lots of vegetarian Indian food. Ashley had a wonderful rice flour pancake filled with vegetables. Yum yum. The managers all stopped by and said goodbye and wished us well. A great send off.
We had arranged for a car through our taxi driver when we arrived. (Travel note: always schedule transportation away from the hotel if you can and before giving full details of where you are staying - first the driver will jack up the price if he knows where you are staying and if the hotel makes the arrangements another 30% is tacked on to the final price. Everyone wants a piece of the pie.)
The driver had a brand new Tata car. Ashley climbed in the front (brave soul) and I took my place behind the driver. That way my view of the oncoming traffic is blocked and it is much easier on my nerves :->. His seat belt worked. Mine was hanging as it should be right behind me but there was no buckle to be seen on the seat. It had been removed. The driver said "they aren't really necessary" and I think he actually believed it. On the other hand I know what the traffic fatality rate is in India!
Off we went first through the town of Kottayah and a visit to a Syrian Orthodox Christian Church built in 1579. This part of the State of Kerala is predominately Orthodox. When the Portuguese colonized the coast they forced conversion to Catholicism. So the Orthodox Christians moved further inland. Keep in mind that this church was built almost 70 years before the Taj Mahal. Christianity has deep ancient roots in India.
The building was about two stories tall. Long nave, rectangular shape. The sanctuary was curtained off. Total lack of icons. Very plain and unlike Greek or Russian Orthodox churches. The sanctuary had a simple altar but above it was a glorious fresco of Mary holding the baby Jesus surrounded by saints. The fresco was original so much of it was faded but the central figure of Mary had been restored. The ceiling was coffered wood, each indented square painted with a different decorative pattern. Wonderful! The nave was empty, no seats. There were lots of Hindu influences and symbols on the facade and inside the church. The sexton pointed them all out. The Orthodox churches seem to have done very well assimilating objects and symbols.
Back in the car and off again. As we left the city we climbed continuously. Leaving the tropical flora and fauna we passed the rubber tree plantations, then as we got higher that gave way to coffee and then to tea. We were well into the mountains of India and the air was significantly cooler. Over a mountain pass and down the other side we were back into coffee and then into vast spice farms. That is where we are now. The sun is getting ready to set, the coolness is setting in. We are sitting on the veranda having tea and lime sodas. Contemplating tonight’s buffet and the promise of 30 different kinds of pickled something.
Tomorrow Ashley is off for a full day hike around the perimeter of the park. I had planned to do a boat tour at 7A as that is supposed to be the best way to see the animals but the boat tours are no more. Last month when the boat was out someone spied a group of tigers, alerted everyone and they all rushed to that side of the boat. You know what happened. It capsized, a two deck boat, and many died. So the boat is no more. The only options are the all day trek, a two hour walk, or a jeep ride.
I'm planning on a 7A yoga class, breakfast, followed by a massage, and then a 10A walk thru some of the park, lunch, a meander to town and then some quality time with the iPod at the pool. This has been one of the most relaxing vacations yet. (Btw – still not sick),