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Rod, Twiz and I booked the Hilton Waikoloa for spring break, paying for one night and using an ALON award for the other six.

Upon arrival we didn't see the Honors check-in sign and so went to the regular line, which was only about four people deep. A Hilton employee immediately came through the line, asked our name and directed us to the Honors check-in, where there was no line. Unfortunately, things went downhill from there.

We went to our room and found the bathroom smelled horrible. We called housekeeping and they said they'd come try to take care of it while we went to dinner. When we returned, we had a message saying housekeeping couldn't get rid of the smell and we should change rooms.

We barely got the door open on the second room and were assaulted by cigarette smoke.

The third room had some underwear in it and trash, but no bad smells so we considered this progress and decided we could take care of the debris. (Although even this wasn't easy as when we put the underwear in the waste basket the maid left them there the first day.)

The following day we checked our account on the TV and noticed a room charge at the resort's fish and steak house (we're vegetarians) for $110. We called the front desk and asked for the charge to be removed. She said she'd research it and take care of it.

The following day the charge remained and now there were a few other incorrect charges as well. As appears to be the trend, this hotel now offers a $15 a day resort fee, which covers use of the safe, local calls, a $25 daily credit toward beach toys and in-room coffee. We paid the fee, but found we were still charged for the safe and the phone calls. Another call to the front desk and we were told the matter would be resolved before the agent's shift ended. Apparently, she's been working non-stop for the last six days as we never did hear back from her.

The following day we called Brian, a manager on duty, who said he'd remove the charges and then research them. He removed the restaurant charge; the other charges remained.

Meanwhile, in addition to the bill battle, we were trying to get the NY Times Fax delivered to us each morning with little success. Each morning we would call the concierge and explain we hadn't received it, would like it sent up and would like it delivered through our stay. By the fourth morning they begin delivering it without a phone call.

The night before we were to check out, we called the front desk - for the fourth time - and asked to have the phone and safe charges removed so we could check out on the TV in the morning. She said no problem.

The next morning as we were ready to check out we pulled up the bill and found the restaurant charge had reappeared. Rod called the front desk and was told that if it reappeared it meant they had researched it and determined the signature belonged to one of us. Rod told them to pull the bill so he could look at it in the lobby.

When we arrived in the lobby the clerk said Vicki, the manager, had made a mistake by putting the charge back on our account and that it had now been removed although we would have to fill out some paperwork. Why we would have to fill out paperwork for their mistake is beyond me. Rod asked to see the check and the signature and the clerk reluctantly brought it to him. The signature wasn't even close and the name was completely different. She apologized for Vicki. Rod politely explained that they'd had six days to resolve this and we did not appreciate standing in the lobby dealing with this now when we should be on the way to the airport. He also asked and received a copy of the check in question.

On a brighter note, while we don't usually take tours, when we first stayed at this hotel when it was a Hyatt Rod and I took the back-of-the-house tour. On every stay since, we've wanted to take Twiz, but were told he was too young. This time they let him on the tour.

It's a pretty interesting glimpse at what goes on behind the scenes. The hotel was built with the Disney-ish idea that guests should not see the inner workings of the place so everything is handled discreetly underneath the hotel, where there is a mile+ long roadway that cuts through a mini city. Employees drive tugs and bikes between the luggage department, laundry (which has dryers that dry a load of linens within 6 minutes), uniform shop, flower shop, aviary, etc.

The luggage room is much like baggage claim at a small airport. All the luggage goes down a shoot, comes out on a carousel and then is sorted and brought to the guests' rooms.

You also see the train house, which employs three full-time mechanics who work graveyard to keep the two trains running; and the curator's office where he's constantly restoring the pieces that get damaged in the museum walkway.

The tour takes about an hour.

We've stayed at this hotel numerous times in the 12 years it's been open and have always had a pleasant experience. I hope these customer service problems are only a fluke.