Princeville Resort (4.5/5)

Pulled up in my SUV around 9:15 p.m. Instantly greeted by the valet, who asks for my name. He goes inside, while someone else grabs my bags and leis me. First valet comes back with my room key -- "Mr. XXXXX, we've upgraded you from a Mountain/Garden view room to an oceanview Prince Jr. Suite. If you head up to your room someone will be there shortly to check you in."

A few minutes after getting into the room, someone arrives with my bag. Reviews room rate ($0.00) and verifies CC for incidentals. All done. It was the most pleasant check-in experience I've ever had, even nicer than at the St. Regis NYC. Very fast.

Perhaps too fast... they neglected to tell me that parking is $15 a day, whether you valet or self park. This after being on Maui and having free valet at the Maui Prince and Ritz Kapalua. Even more egregious because they have public parking a few yards away for free for non-guests.

For the money, you would think the valet wouldn't have left the top off on my SUV the second night. Of course it rained; it was soaked in the morning. The morning valet was very apologetic and brought some towels for the backseat/trunk. Throughout the stay, they were very good about having the car ready.

The suite was a decent size. A small foyer, bedroom area, dining table for four and a large living space adjacent to the windows. The furnishings were high quality, but felt a bit worn.

In addition to the TV in the living area, there's a pop up TV that can be viewed from the bed. (There's a remote that moves it up and down.) The same cabinet that contains the TV houses the mini-bar and drawers. Note to those who try to restock minibars themselves: there are colored dots on all the items. The prices seemed low by minibar standards.

I never could find the supposed in-room safe.

The windows overlooked the lower tiers of the hotel and across to Bali Hai and down to the bay and Ocean. One thing I discovered late in the stay is that the glass AND the screens slide back, so you can have full open air.

Bathroom was very impressive. Marble throughout, double sink, spa tub. Amenities were Aveda. I really liked the rosemary mint shampo. The toilet acted up a bit; took some tries to flush.

In lieu of a curtain, there is an LCD window controlled by a light switch. If it's off, the glass is clear. If it's on, the glass is shaded for privacy. NOTE TO DESIGNERS: Switch shouldn't be on opposite side of bathroom -- Turn on privacy. Get in tub. Turn on jets. Turn off privacy. Watch sunset. Turn on privacy. Step out. As it is, there's a bit of a free show. Not that anyone would want to see it.

They had a number of wrapped presents waiting for me in the room, along with a card from the GM thanking me for returning. Don't know which was the plat amenity, but I got a set of Princeville note cards, a Princeville journal and a Kauai coffee table book.

The tent card still listed the old policy phone rates ($2/$1.50); I didn't have to make a call so I don't know if they charge the new, lower rates.

I arrived after the restaurants had closed so had to order through room service. Horrid pizza, which I swear was a frozen pizza heated up. (And not very well, the crust was burnt.) $21.95 + tip&tax. If I hadn't been so tired, I would have sent it back.

I had one breakfast at Cafe Hanalei, which overlooks the ocean. Pretty good food and not overly expensive considering the locale. ($25 all in for an omelette and juice.) I got the sense that most people take the buffet as the table service was a bit on the slow side.

The lobby is enormous, with a large wall overlooking the bay. To the right is the Living Room lounge, which is very homey. Good tropical drinks.

Some of the public areas were a bit beat up for a hotel of this caliber.

In the area of the hotel I was staying, there are two identical (from the outside) elevators on the 9th floor. If you get the one on the right, it's a freight elevator that brings you up into a service area.

The hotel is set on a cliff and has three major sections. The driveway is toward the top of the ciff. From the drive, the hotel has a certain opulence to it. From the beach and from across the bay, it looks rather ugly and scattershot.

Getting to the beach/pool area took more connections than getting to Kauai -- three separate elevators.

The beach is OK, but there is a lot of coral right near it; much nicer beaches nearby. Didn't really spend much time there as the weather wasn't cooperating.

I did take advantage of the oceanfront hammocks. There are only two; I don't know if there's usually a charge, but no one was around. Nothing like reading in the rain.

Checkout was relatively smooth. Agent was very friendly. Offered to get someone to help with my bags. The person didn't come, but my car was ready so I just hauled them off.

PROS: Top-tier hotel in an unbelievable location. I'd like to go back in the summer, when you can kayak the Na Pali Coast. Generous upgrades, platinum amenities. Spa tubs w/LCD panel. One of the nicest in-room views I've had.

CONS: Excessive parking charges*, inconsistent food quality, marginal beach.

RECOMMENDATION: If you want to be on the North Shore, this is the place. If you're looking for a "just hanging out" beach vacation, try the Poipu area. The beach in front of the Sheraton looked MUCH nicer.

*I was told the parking charge was instituted when they joined Starwood, in lieu of a resort fee.