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Old Mar 15, 2017, 6:15 pm
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[Park partly closed due to floods] "Visiting/traveling to Yellowstone Park" thread

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Old May 23, 2017, 8:56 am
  #226  
 
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TTT, thanks for the recommendation. I'll probably drive from Bozeman, but will look at this company for a possible tour.
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Old Jun 13, 2017, 12:43 pm
  #227  
 
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I just drove myself through Teton and Yellowstone from June 2-11 of this year, so here is my updated review/advice/thoughts:

Unless you are specifically in Teton for sunrise or sunset photos at specific spots, I think you can do Teton in 2 full days, 1 overnight in the area. I recommend coming in from the north, following the inner loop for the views on the way in and to get to most of the hikes and lakes. Maybe continue that way and do Teton Village that evening, ride the tram, go visit Jackson Hole, sleep, the come back north around the outer loop and the majestic views you can get there on the second day. Moulton's Barn, Schwabacher, and Snake River Overlook are all on the outer loop. Seriously, the views are there at all hours and like I said, if you are not specifically wanting to be at a place for a sunrise shot, the view at any time is amazing. Check out the view from the Jackson Lake Lodge as the sun sets, eat a hearty meal, stay there or continue north. I found cell service almost everywhere. Not the fastest but at least it was there. I am on T-Mobile for reference.

Yellowstone is much bigger with everything more spread out. I was alone with no spotters so I didn't see any wolves or bears while drving around, but found most of the internet advice to be sound. The Lamar and the Hayden valleys had bison everywhere. Like after 1 day I wondered why anyone ever stopped for bison because they were everywhere! Anyway, I'm not sure I can give a recommended plan of attack here because I didn't actually go everywhere. There are more hike options and less scenic pull-outs. I did not visit the lake area really at all. I did drive up that way through Hayden Valley to Canyon Village. Canyon Village was nice, the Lodge and area were nice. It is very close to the north and south rims of the Canyon. There is some road work being done there, single lane traffic along part of the loop and part of Uncle Tom's trail is closed. Artist's Point is open as usual and the rainbow on the lower falls appeared right around 10:00. If you continue up to Tower Junction, there is not much other than Mt. Washburn on the way. I stayed at Roosevelt for 1 night and thought there was not much up there. However, this is a good base if you want to head out the Lamar Valley the next morning to go wolf and wildlife spotting at dawn. Further along to Mammoth Hot Springs area where there are of course the hot springs plus Yellowstone Fort and a couple of restaurants. I'd say drive past, start at the top of the springs and walk down the viewing platforms, eat lunch, visit the Fort and Village, then walk back up the road or the viewing path again, but that is just me. From Mammoth to Norris Geyser Basin, the Earth is on fire. There is stuff bubbling, steams, or shooting up almost everywhere. Enjoy. Norris Canyon Rd. is scenic and cuts back to Canyon Village. Otherwise continue around to Madison Junction. Not much there except the road out the west entrance to West Yellowstone (if you need internet access or different food options than the park offers) or continue along the loop to the Firehole River side road. Follow that. You actually have to pass it then turn left since it is one-way. But that was a nice side show. Get back on the main loop and visit the Paint Pots or continue south to Grand Prismatic. There used to be a walking path to Fairy Falls which is an overlook for Grand Prismatic. it is CLOSED! Scheduled to open in July, but the ranger I talked to said he expected September 1st at the earliest it would re-open. Lame. However, do not miss Grand Prismatic. the parking there sucks so get there early or after dinner, but even though the view is not overhead and sweeping, it is a very impressive site. After that, continue south to Old Faithful. It has its own exit off the loop road, it has plenty of parking, several places to eat, several geysers to view (I was lucky enough to see the Beehive Geyser shoot 200 ft into the air and douse everyone on the boardwalk), and the Inn and Visitor's Center are great here. Old Faithful lived up to its name while I was there, every 90-95 minutes it erupted. It is very entertaining to see the masses of people there for the show and then 10 minutes afterwards, 3 people on the benches. Anyway, you could spend anywhere from the full 90 minutes to several hours here if you wanted. Continue widdershins or east to the Yellowstone Lake and you are back to the road leading to the south entrance. There is little to no cell service in the park. I would randomly get an email through at an unnamed geyser, but that was about it. You will be stopped for bison. probably more than once. It's like they do not know to stay out of the streets...and even if they did, the cars would stop to view. No complaints, just a warning. If you want to be parked close to a major attraction, be there before 10:00 or after 19:00ish. Everyone is out between those time. The first week in June was not actually super crowded. I did not feel crushed, the few hikes I did were not populated. I'm sure that will change in a week or 2. For comparison, I got to Artist's Point at the Lower Falls at 9:30 the first day, no parking. I got there at 7:00 on another day, there were 3 cars plus mine and a coyote in the parking lot. Big difference.

Anyway, hope all that helps. It is at least recent. Eventually I will have the pictures off my camera and I will link them for reference. Until then, use you imagination
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Old Jun 15, 2017, 8:34 am
  #228  
 
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linsj,
If you have not already solidified plans and you will have a car anyway, it might be good to look also at tours from either Mammoth or Gardiner, MT, which are maybe 10 miles apart. From Bozeman, you are on an interstate to Livingston and then on a fairly flat and open mostly 2 lane highway to Gardiner (I think there are long stretches with 75+mph speed limits). There is a fairly touristy area in Gardiner near the entrance to YNP, so I would expect there are tours running from that area. And check out Yellowstone Forever's website for both day and overnight tours.
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Old Jun 20, 2017, 10:12 pm
  #229  
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I recently bought fairly inexpensive plane tickets to SLC for the July 4th weekend. Reading the posts in this thread, I definitely should have planned things earlier. However, it seems like ~1.5 days in the Yellowstone/Grand Teton area might be enough for a first visit if planned right. So far I've planned things out as follows:

July 1st, 4:30pm: arrival in SLC. Rent car, drive to Idaho Falls. Spend one night in a hotel there.
July 2nd: drive from Idaho Falls through Grand Teton to Yellowstone. Probably mostly drive the main roads with a stop at Old Faithful and maybe one or two other stops in Yellowstone proper. Spend a second night in Idaho Falls.
July 3rd: (Half?) day in Grand Teton. Drive back to SLC afterward and spend night in SLC.
July 4th, ~9:30am: return to airport for flight back to SAN.

I also just checked and there still seems to be some hotel availability in West Yellowstone for the 1st and 2nd (albeit at twice the price of the Idaho Falls hotel). Would I be better off spending the extra money to stay at West Yellowstone and skipping Grand Teton this time?
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Old Jun 22, 2017, 6:06 pm
  #230  
 
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ITs 2 hrs each way from idaho falls to west yellowstone. You dont want to drive that road in the dark because you can run into wildlife

July 1 into SLC night Idaho falls
July 2 early AM to Jackson then to grand teton. AM you get good pics of mountains from schwahbacher landing and ox bow bend. leave around 11am, get to old faithful around 1:15pm, see old faithful area and geyser basin, night west yellowstone
july 3 north loop to norris, mammoth hot springs, LAmar Valley, and then canyon, ten return to west yellowstone then to idaho falls.

in the park --its large---30 miles=1 hr drive time. in the north loop to do this will take around 4 hrs just the driving alone.
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Old Jun 23, 2017, 8:00 pm
  #231  
 
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For future reference, here is my two-day itinerary. Each day was 5-6 hours of driving, all I wanted to do.

Day 1: Drove from Bozeman to the north park entrance, Mammoth Hot Springs, Tower Falls, canyon drive, lower falls (missed the sign for upper falls), over to Norris but road to Norris Geyser Basin was closed, paint pots (didn't have the energy for the two-mile round trip walk to this sight so skipped it), out the west entrance. Spent the night in West Yellowstone.

Day 2: Drove through west entrance toward Old Faithful--Firehole Lake Drive, Fountain Paint Pot trail, Grand Prismatic Spring, Old Faithful, Old Faithful Inn. Arrived at Old Faithful five minutes before it erupted; didn't know predictions in advance but couldn't have timed it better. Drove back to Bozeman via 191N, and spent the night there.

I left hotels early, and traffic wasn't bad (almost none from Bozeman) until going back to Bozeman, when it was close to a parking lot for miles and no apparent reason. Both ways were easy drives. I wasn't near any restaurants at meal times, so glad I took food with me. I easily got a parking space at every stop.

Only two brief stops for animal crossings on day 1--a deer and a couple of bison. Although I didn't see much wildlife, this week was a good time to go before the crowds descend.
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Old Jun 24, 2017, 10:47 am
  #232  
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Originally Posted by djp98374
ITs 2 hrs each way from idaho falls to west yellowstone. You dont want to drive that road in the dark because you can run into wildlife

July 1 into SLC night Idaho falls
July 2 early AM to Jackson then to grand teton. AM you get good pics of mountains from schwahbacher landing and ox bow bend. leave around 11am, get to old faithful around 1:15pm, see old faithful area and geyser basin, night west yellowstone
july 3 north loop to norris, mammoth hot springs, LAmar Valley, and then canyon, ten return to west yellowstone then to idaho falls.

in the park --its large---30 miles=1 hr drive time. in the north loop to do this will take around 4 hrs just the driving alone.
Good point; even though sunset is around 9pm during the time I'll be there it'd still be a lot of time in the car anyway. Since my last post availability has dwindled but I was still able to get a reservation in West Yellowstone for the 2nd.

Something else that I'll need to keep in mind too: everything in West Yellowstone seems to close at 9pm per Google Maps, so any dinner I'd like to have there would need to be had before that time. Meaning that I'd have to exit at least an hour beforehand, possibly two.
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Old Aug 3, 2017, 11:28 am
  #233  
 
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My wife and I would like to visit YNP for some light hiking and sightseeing.

Our tentative ideas are:

1.) Fly into SLC via STL on or around September 12, spend 1 night in SLC
2.) Rent a car in SLC and and explore YNP for about 4 days.
3.) Drive back to SLC, fly to STL

Questions:

With the above plans, can someone suggest us a practical itinerary with routes for first-timers? Also, I am unclear whether lodging should be done in the park itself or in a town outside the park? Availability?
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Old Aug 4, 2017, 12:50 pm
  #234  
 
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doss1,

If this thread really has consolidated key prior threads, then there should be a great deal of info in it. So skim if you have not.

Flying in and out of SLC (or DEN for that matter) will cost you a day of drive time each direction. Consider flying into JAC, BZN, BIL, or WYS, as they are all much closer. And depending on how much a one-way charge on a rental car is, considering an open jaw or two one-way flights, maybe flying into BZN and flying out of JAC.

To make the most of your days, I would stay inside the park if feasible. And I would try to stay at least 2 nights each place so that you are not using up time every day with checking in and out, packing and unpacking. Reserve on Xanterra's website. Be aware that some rooms do not have their own bath, so you would be using a hall bath, though they are pretty clearly noted. If you can get rooms, I suggest staying in the Old Faithful area (OFI or Snow Lodge) and then one or two of the other areas, such as Lake, Canyon, Mammoth, or Tower.

NPS Day Hiking link, with which you can fill up your days: https://www.nps.gov/yell/planyourvisit/dhsampler.htm
I think the ratings on those trails that I am familiar with are fairly accurate. Have several alternatives ready, as you may find out from rangers that some trails are closed due to bear activity or other reasons.

Remember that you will be gaining significant elevation between STL and YNP, so take it easy initially and have lots of water. From prior experience, I know that Jackson and Bozeman both have Wal-Marts and other stores where you can stock up with food and water after flying in, as well as hiking poles (or broom poles if you want to go cheap), bear spray, etc.

Grand Teton National Park, just south of Yellowstone, is also quite beautiful and has several good day hiking trails. Flagg Ranch, Togwotee Lodge, or hotels in Jackson are outside the park but provide easy access to GTNP. So I would encourage you to look at that park also as part of this trip.

Seven to ten days might be a more realistic budget for seeing the two parks, so assume you won't see everything and will want to come back. These park don't work well for a lot of brief stops to check off getting to all of the key points.

Feel free to post or PM with questions. I am actually going to the park in about 2 weeks.

TRRed
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Old Aug 28, 2017, 6:04 pm
  #235  
 
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Quick/Mini-trip report on my YNP/GTNP trip this past week:
Hotels:
(a) General for YNP hotels: no AC, most had fans, older ones had creaky floors (better to be on top floor) and very limited outlets. Consider eyemask if you may want to sleep with windows open to cool down room. All Xanterra managed.
(b) Lake Yellowstone Hotel/Sandpiper: Typical for its age. Definitely creaky floors and limited outlets (I had to unplug a lamp and use its outlet). My room was noticeably smaller than the picture shows for a standard Sandpiper room, but no other real surprises.
(c) Old Faithful Snow Lodge: Fairly new hotel in OF area. Room was comfortable, relatively spacious.
(d) Grant Village Lodge (Fox Lodge): Below average. Felt like a well used motel room or maybe a large dorm room (though it was clean). Bathroom was tight, and I suspect doorway was smaller than standard 30".
(e) Togwotee Lodge (not YNP, about 15 miles east of GTNP): Good lodge room, comfortable. Somewhat of a creaky floor. Highway down to GTNP was usually pretty empty. No AC in my room (some have it). Managed by Aramark.

Dining:
(a) Most of the food at Xanterra properties was pretty average. The dinner buffet at Old Faithful Inn was below average. The dinner I had at Old Faithful Snow Lodge was very good, but the breakfast buffet was weak. Also in the average category: Grant Village Dining Room and Lake Lodge Cafeteria.
(b) Dinner at Togwotee was good. Breakfast buffet was average (not able to order off the menu since only offering buffet).
(c) Breakfast buffet at Jackson Lake Lodge Mural Room was good but a little pricey.

Feel free to PM if you have specific questions on above or on day hikes, etc.

TRRed
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Old Sep 13, 2017, 8:47 pm
  #236  
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Yellowstone -- what's the best time?

2018, I'm the only one in the group that could do anything but the easiest of hikes. Any other advice is also appreciated.
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Old Sep 14, 2017, 2:53 pm
  #237  
 
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Originally Posted by Loren Pechtel
2018, I'm the only one in the group that could do anything but the easiest of hikes. Any other advice is also appreciated.

"anything but the easiest of hikes" doesn't make sense.....



In most of the park, the park trails are relatively flat with many actually are boardwalks you walk on. In the parts of the park on the west side from old faithful to Norris to mammoth you cant assume the ground is safe to walk on because you don't know if this is a pie crust you are walking on. You should always stay on the trails.

The park is a large park. You need 3 days at least to visit it all. think of it in 3 parts

1. old faithful and geyser basin
2. north loop/Lamar Valley
3. Hayden/Lake Yellowstone

Only Canyon Lodge is the most central to use that as a center for your visit. With others you want to look at splitting between north and south stays( Mammoth, Roosevelt, Mammoth, Gardiner, cooke city vs west Yellowstone, old faithful, lake, Grant) or east and west ( Lake, Grant, Roosevelt, Canyon vs Mammoth, west Yellowstone, gardiner, old faithful)


for visiting the park the window of time is May-Sept

May ---there is still snow, roads gradually get cleared with the last roads usually opening memorial day weekend if not a heavy spring snow. Lodges tend to open Memorial day weekend.

June--you can still get snow (usually overnight) and it can still be cold. this time the roads are open and the park is starting to get crowded.

July--busy season

August--You don't see much of a drop off, but there is a drop pff in families with kids because schools starting back mid Augusts on. This time of year you have wildfire risk either in the park or in terms of air quality.

September--after Labor Day the lodges start to close starting with Roosevelt and the rest closing by the last weekend of September. In September you start to get back to real snow risk as the month goes on. After laboir day is road work season, so usually this means some part of the rough figure 8 in the park is blocked entirely or limited to just one lane. They work till snow comes. Any work to still do carries over into May/June.
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Old Nov 5, 2017, 12:09 pm
  #238  
 
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Odds of Beartooth Highway being open on the 26th of May, 2018 - two days before Memorial Day? I note it was open on the 20th of May, 2017.
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Old Jan 18, 2018, 8:02 am
  #239  
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Originally Posted by earlyriser
Odds of Beartooth Highway being open on the 26th of May, 2018 - two days before Memorial Day? I note it was open on the 20th of May, 2017.
Totally depends on how much snow we get this year. The MDT/YNP try to get it open by the Friday before Memorial day, which is the 25th this year.
Beartooth Highway Information
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Old Aug 14, 2018, 12:07 am
  #240  
 
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I have only three days to see Yellowstone and the Tetons and was thinking of flying in/out of Jackson. I realize three days is nothing and I will barely scratch the surface, but I hoped at least this trip to see Old Faithful/other geysers, Mammoth Hot Springs/Terraces, and the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone. My accommodations are with a friend, in Jackson. Is it better to fly into Bozeman and drive into the park, leaving from Jackson? (Or vice versa?) Driving from Jackson up to Mammoth Hot Springs and back down to Jackson that evening seems like a lot of driving, but this is a very last minute trip and I will not be finding accommodations this late in the park, plus I really want to stay with my friend. Thanks.
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