There are places that one can never get tired of going and keep returning with anticipation after each visit. For me Vancouver is one of these places where I faithfully embark on in a yearly pilgrimage. My introduction to this city happened many years ago when it still enjoyed some obscurity before it became the popular destination that it is today thanks to continuous exposure on travel magazines and its popularity as one of the most beautiful cities in the world, a title proclaimed in many countless surveys.
During those early encounters with the city, I remember that the fares from SFO used to be less than $200 RT, the city had a more "edgy" feel and the streets were less crowded with tourists. It’s hard to pinpoint the reasons for my attraction to Vancouver. It could be a combination of different factors - the laid back attitude of a metropolitan city, the stunning natural surroundings, the concentration of excellent restaurants, the great value of the exchange rate against the US dollars, the diversity of the population or the compact size of the city making it quite user friendly. These days when one visits YVR, new construction sites are part of the landscape and there is a sense that this place has transitioned from obscurity to joining the ranks of the most popular cities in the world. Indeed, the cute little girl has grown into a sophisticated woman who turns heads. Unlike other cities whose growth has been chaotic like a cancerous expansion, Vancouver's one has been marked by careful and controlled planning, something that has helped enhance its appeal as one of the most livable places in the world.
THE OUTBOUND
I seldom fly AC, but the few instances that I have are marked by positive memories of professional crews and efficient service. Booking a fare through AC’s website proved to be a fairly painless process. I appreciate its relative ease of use and simplified fare structure with their accompanying descriptions. Since I purchased a Tango Plus fare, I took advantage of the option of including a Maple Leaf lounge pass for $30.00 which came in handy for my return. It appears that the purchase of lounge access can only be made through the website and not by any other means, since I inquired about it with a Maple Leaf agent and she directed me to the website.
AC 563 SFO-YVR
E90 – Seat 17F
Dept. 10:55A – Arriv. 1:17P
AC’s counter is near UA in Terminal 3, which is a significant improvement from its previous location in Terminal 1 in front of the AS’s gates (now occupied by WN). Being able to access the Compass bookstore and the huge food court are enough reasons to welcome this change.
I’m in the habit of arriving early for my flights, usually about 2 hours before departure. Having plenty of time to linger around is a luxury that I enjoy and it relaxes me before boarding the plane. Walking through the people’s mover I caught some views of UA’s fleet at the gates as if looking through a strip of film. This film analogy was not restricted to these passing glimpses of airplanes but also to the whole terminal. The indefinite cast of characters that one encounters in an airport can make for some of the most entertaining people watching everywhere. Here I am having a front row seat at some of the most interesting behaviors that I lay my eyes on – the hurried businessman going somewhere, the first time traveler looking at his alien surroundings, the child throwing a tantrum testing the parent’s patience, the lovers who are so in love that they can hardly contain their devotion to each other, the older couple across who sit silently in resignation that that seem to say to the couple in front “just wait a couple of years and the novelty will wear off. Take a good look at us, we are your future.” Mind you, this observation comes from an optimist.
Walking through the UA Terminal
The E90 is equipped with AVOD entertainment system and according to seatguru.com it possesses a 33” seat pitch. My first time flying an E90 was on Jetblue and I started to love this plane. No middle seats, a spacious rear lavatory and a bright cheerful cabin – what’s not to love about the E90? Boarding started about 25min. before departure in an orderly manner and today’s flight was a light one (about 50% full). There was a deadheading pilot who sat in the Y cabin and I noticed a light altercation between a passenger and the gate agents. Apparently the issue was something pertaining to dress code. I would speculate that he was a non-rev who did not meet the company’s attire requirements. The “culprit” was well dressed in business casual with button down shirt, slacks and leather shoes. Maybe he was trying to jumpseat and had to be in uniform.
AC's E90
An empty flight always sets the tone for a good flight. Entering the plane I was greeted by a friendly flight attendant and then I moved towards the empty rear section of the cabin where I claimed a row for myself. Nothing is more conducive to a pleasant flight than having room to stretch out undisturbed. As you can see from the pictures the seat pitch looks pretty decent. In the seat pocket there was a copy of EnRoute along with the safety card and motion sickness bag neatly enclosed in a plastic pouch.
Cabin shots
One distinguishing factor that sets airlines apart for me is the quality of its inflight magazine. In that regard AC’s EnRoute magazine is a gem compared to its North American competitors. The publication has been voted as “Magazine of the Year” by the Canadian Society of Magazine Editors and judging by the clever and stimulating contents, engaging pictures and well subjects, I would concur that the accolade is well deserved. You can’t believe how gratifying it is to open the pages of an inflight magazine without being bombarded with ads pertaining to golf, dating and steakhouses. Let’s not forget ill conceived topics lacking interest.
For those of us who enjoy taking pictures a window seat with a view at 35,000 feet is priceless and a sunny day makes it ever more rewarding. Lacking professional expertise myself in the area of photography I admit that I engage in this hobby enthusiastically albeit at an amateurish level. The plane’s engines started to roar in anticipation for take off. Just when the plane was lifting up I caught another plane landing perpendicular to our runway transfixing me by its ethereal appeal. The light softly reflected on the water imparted a glow that contributed to the serene feel of this scene.
We leveled at 35,000 feet and the flight attendants jumped into action by offering earphones for sale. I got my headset out and when the flight attendant saw that she proactively offered me an adaptor for free. Of course I brought my own set but I thought it would be impolite to refuse her offer, especially when it was delivered with such candid enthusiasm. It is precisely this level of service that reminds me of my previous experiences with AC and luckily it prevailed throughout the flight. The last time I flew this particular route on AC a free box breakfast was provided. Times have changed and the ever popular BOB concept has made its way across the border to AC offering a selection of cold wraps, bagel and snacks on today’s flight. Hot items are not served onboard E90’s. When the cart made its way to my row all options were depleted except for the bagel and some snacks. The FA was very apologetic about it and offered me the bagel for free – a nice gesture that was appreciated. However no amount of good will can compensate for the horrible taste of a cold bagel served onboard. Neither the cream cheese nor the strawberry jam could masquerade the cardboard taste and cement consistency of my free breakfast. Dense breads do not travel well at high altitude. A better option would be some fresh fruit with salad and yogurt or even a filled donut with cream or jelly. I know, not the healthiest alternative but one that takes care of any sugar cravings. After all, isn’t AC a North American carrier?
The lethal bagel
AVOD is the best thing that happened to inflight entertainment and it’s a good thing that AC’s E90’s are all equipped with it. It also helps that AC provides a decent selection of programs (“METROPOLIS” anyone?) and showcases film student’s works. I happen to know a thing or two about cinema having studied Italian films in college and presently working for the chair of the Cinema department at a college. Psychologically speaking whenever we fly, we surrender our control and put it in the pilot’s hands. I believe that in a minuscule sort of way AVOD helps to put some of that control back and make the flying experience a bit less stressful. Taking advantage of this empowerment I decided to watch the French comedy Asterix with Gerard Depardieu and I’d say that the role he plays fits him to a teeth. By now one of the FA’s was doing a water run and soon we were descending into a cloudy and cold day in YVR.
AVOD system
View at 35,000 feet
Landing in YVR
SHERATON WALL CENTRE
The Sheraton is made up of two buildings (North and South towers) that stand proudly as part of the Vancouver skyline. I checked in at the South tower with its small but well staffed lobby. Two porters stood outside while two front desk agents were assisting at the counter. There were a couple of people in front but the line moved quickly. My interaction with one of the agents who was a manager was friendly and very welcoming. I was given a room with a balcony in one of the upper floors. The view was nice but the size of the room felt restrictive. The bathroom was very standard and not too roomy either. In this day and age of electronic advances it is imperative to offer sockets to charging gadgets and these were easy to find throughout the room. Although the room was acceptable I decided to take a look at the room from the North tower to compare. The manager offered to switch me in case I wanted to and I took upon that offer later on. Moments later a nice agent issued me the keys for my new room at the North tower.
Compared to the South tower, the North tower rooms were more spacious and modern. When I entered the building there was a lady at the desk who seemed overwhelmed with no other staff on sight to assist her. With key in hand I bypassed her and went straight to my new room which happened to be in one of the upper floors once again. The big room was tastefully decorated and I liked it better than my previous room, even without an outside balcony. The bathroom featured a huge sink with a good assortment of toiletries. Personally I prefer to stay in this wing not only for the space but the contemporary and minimalist décor which makes for a pleasant stay. The only negative observation that I see about staying in this section is a lack of attentiveness that was never a problem at its sister tower. While the South tower was more intimate and the staff more approachable, the North one seemed to be staffed at a bare minimum. Several times during the day I have only seen one person there. One morning I went downstairs to ask for a spare toothbrush. Seeing that the front desk agent was busy helping a customer, I asked the concierge next to it. He sent me back to the front desk where I waited for a good couple of minutes. The concierge then came to the front desk, opened several drawers and provided me with a replacement toothbrush saying “Sorry Sir”. Now, I appreciate his coming over and taking care of me. I can even understand his sending me back to the line if he was busy with someone but he was by himself checking something in the computer. Why couldn’t he have done this in the first place? Certainly this action did not seem very proactive from a customer service’s perspective. Overall, despite this minor disappointment I will come back to the Sheraton. The comfortable rooms at the North tower make up for any shortcomings in service and for those Starbucks fans I am happy to report that there is a branch located in the basement of the property.
The South Tower
Views from the room balcony
The North Tower
Lobby
Restaurant next to the lobby
Room
THE FAIRMONT
This grand dame property does not fail to impress. Attention to details and consistent service are the trademarks here. It also works to its advantage that the branches of big name brands like Louis Vuitton and St. John, among others, are housed here to further lend an air of exclusivity. When recalling past visits to the Fairmont, I can honestly say that I have never been disappointed with the staff here who are always efficient, friendly and professional. This is an old hotel and this can be apparently obvious by the size of the rooms and its fixtures. For the technically savvy it can sometimes be a challenge to find a convenient socket to recharge your gadgets. Finding one in my room was like playing “Where is Waldo?” Rooms are tastefully decorated in a traditionally elegant way and can be quite comfy. One of the biggest assets of this property is the location, which is right in the center of everything and can be handy as a reference point. The famous Robson Street is half a block away and it is convenient to major shops and restaurants.
The Fairmont viewed from Robson St.
One of the entrances
Lobby
Room
When it comes to food Vancouver can hold its position as a dining mecca. Some of the best restaurants in Canada and North America are located here. Tojo's and Vij's are two names that come to mind. However, there are a number of less notorious places that do a great job in turning out pretty decent fare. I love to eat and enjoy trying different cuisines so one afternoon I decided to indulge in some good Greek food. One of the great things about staying at the Sheraton is that it is close to Davie St., where Stepho's Souvlaki is located. This is one of the most popular restaurants in the city and judging by the constant lines outside at all hours of the day that claim is not too far fetched. The first time I ate there I was presented with a hearty lamb dish that was one of the most tender pieces of meat that I have ever sank my teeth into. This time I decided to try the tyropita (cheese wrapped in puff pastry) - a bit greasy but the calamari and the ratatouille of summer vegetables over rice just hit the spot.
Tyropita
Calamari
Vegetable ratatouille served over rice
The next night I ventured into a Singaporean restaurant named Prima Taste on Robson St. The place is not that big but was stylishly decorated in warm tones. I sat in a booth table that afforded some privacy and ordered several dishes starting with the roti canai or pratha as it is known in Singapore. This appetizer is a flatbread that is fluffy inside and flaky on the outside. It is addictively good and it is served with curry gravy for dipping. Of course, it cannot be compared to the one I had in Singapore at an Indian eatery but it brought me back memories and it was a faithful interpretation. I then proceeded to have the satay which is "de rigueur" at any Malaysian or Singaporean establishment. This dish is probably the most representative of these countries and it did not disappoint. The tender pieces of meat were well seasoned and juicy. I then had the Hainanese chicken with rice and the beef Rendang, both of which were cooked just right and quite tasty. The rendang was spicy but not overpowering achieving a good balance. The meat was extremely tender and flavorful. Finally I ordered a dessert of tapioca surrounded by coconut milk and drizzled with palm sugar ending a very satisfying multi course meal. The only minor complain I have is the use of chipped chinaware, especially the ones holding the condiments that accompanied the chicken dish. I think using defective chinaware degrades the overall image of an establishment.
Bar area of the restaurant
Roti canai
Satay
Hainanese chicken
Beef Rendang
Dessert
...to be continued with a visit to the Maple Leaf Lounge and return trip.
