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2 weeks in Buenos Aires-YYZ-MEX-EZE and return, on Aeromexico J.

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2 weeks in Buenos Aires-YYZ-MEX-EZE and return, on Aeromexico J.

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Old Aug 19, 2017, 7:00 pm
  #1  
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2 weeks in Buenos Aires-YYZ-MEX-EZE and return, on Aeromexico J.

Greetings all! This report, in several parts, will document my trip to Buenos Aires, a wonderful 2 week trip that I'm still on tonight. I'll cover the flights, layover, and my time in the beautiful city of Buenos Aires.

The trip was planned after a hard few months, which included the death of my mother. I needed a vacation after this hardship. I had wanted to visit Buenos Aires for a while, and checked the fares. From YYZ, I was seeing 1200 USD per person, RT in J. Needless to say, I snapped up these tickets, for my girlfriend and myself.

On the day of the flight, arrived Pearson Airport at 9pm, for a 1AM departure. Went to the address of Park For U, where we were met by a valet, who dropped us off at the terminal, before bringing the car back to their facility.

Check-in opened exactly at 10pm, and we were the first in line for "Clase Premier." Our check-in agent tagged the bags, printed the boarding passes, and told us which gate to go to. When I asked about a lounge, he rolled his eyes before telling us the location of the lounge facility we could access. Odd.


After a quick security experience, thanks to the Trusted Traveller line, we were at the Plaza Premium lounge. There was a small selection of food, and a decent drink offering. After a couple scotches, it was time for boarding the flight to MEX, operated by a 737-800. Boarding was called 15 minutes late, at 12:35, and we were the first in the queue for the Sky Priority lane. A short taxi later, we were in the air for Mexico City.

Wheels up at 1:18. Hot towels came out 20 minutes later. I wanted to sleep, but for the sake of this report, ate the midnight meal. A stale bagel, with some decent smoked salmon.

After this, the lights were dimmed, I put my seat back, extended the flimsy footrest, and managed a fitful couple of hours of sleep. When I awoke, we were making final approach into Mexico city. Seat was comfortable enough for a flight of this duration.

Landed in a hot and sweaty Mexico City, when a smell of sulfur filled the airplane. This continued into the airport terminal, where we made our way through a 40 minute queue to clear Mexican immigration formalities. Our bags came out soon after, and then we joined yet another queue, to get through customs, to join yet another queue for recheck...And then security. 90 minutes after stepping off the plane, we made it to the lounge. It was spacious, and a good bit cooler than the rest of the terminal.

A couple of coffees later, we began to wake up, and got on the list for showers. The shower had really good water pressure, and plenty of hot water. After this, I got on the lounge wifi, which worked reasonably well. Roughly 3 hours of surfing the web, drinking coffee, and eating pastries elapsed, and it was time to get to the gate for our next flight, on a 777 to Buenos Aires.


We boarded at 10:00, and took our seats on the left-side of the plane. Boarding was quick, and we took off right on time. As soon as we were airborne, I put my seat into its (angled) bed position and fell asleep. Woke up just at the tail end of the breakfast service, and despite being exhausted, sat up and had the breakfast, which was an omelette with chilaquiles, and a ramekin of spiced black beans. Pretty tasty. After this was cleared away, I decided to try out the entertainment system. The touch screen is not very responsive to the human touch. In fact, it's far more responsive if you use the drink stirrer as a stylus!
The scenery on this flight was varied. Over the water between Mexico and Peru, then the arid coastlines of Peru, and finally the andes right at sunset.
After watching a couple movies, it was time for the second meal service. I had a short rib dish which was very tender, but a bit bland.
After eating, I put my seat back into recline, and started watching a movie, half dozing off, when the screen fell off its holder, falling on a very...sensitive place.

I was CERTAINLY WIDE AWAKE after this! And just sat upright for a while, waiting for a flight attendant. When I told her what happened, she took the screen and promptly brought me an iPad with the entertainment system loaded on it. Does this happen a lot?

We began descending about an hour after I was almost emasculated by an IFE system, and I was ready to be off the plane.
After getting off the plane and rushing to immigration, it was a very quick queue, and the immigration agents were very polite. Our bags were waiting on the belt when we arrived. I guess priority bag tags actually mean something!
I had pre-booked with EzeizaTaxi, and when we entered the arrivals hall, there was a sign with my name on it. I paid at their booth, and our driver escorted us to his car, and then we were on our way into the city, at ludicrous speed! I honestly feared for my life during the 45 minute trip into the city. We came within inches of disaster at least 10 times. But after 25 hours of travel, we finally arrived at the apartment, and promptly went to bed.

Part 2 upcoming: Buenos Aires.
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Old Aug 20, 2017, 11:53 am
  #2  
 
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I was in BA in 1978 when people were disappearing and there were police in civilian clothes sitting in the hotel lobby (my Argentinian friends noticed); it was somewhat depressing. I would like to return. It looks so much nicer now; would like to go to Bariloche / the lake district.

I also now remember the strange smell of Mexico City in the late 1970s which one already notices at the airport. However it was an interesting experience.
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Old Aug 20, 2017, 2:57 pm
  #3  
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Bretteee, that must have been a very interesting time to visit, a time of so much tumult. There's still a melancholy that is palpable, but not as much as when you were here.
More to come.
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Old Aug 21, 2017, 6:01 am
  #4  
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Note: Photos will be added to this report when I'm back in the States next weekend.

Our time in Buenos Aires has been spent walking the city, exploring the various neighborhoods, and eating amazing food.
This is the Airbnb we rented.
It's reasonably priced, in a good location, near Plaza Armenia in Palermo Soho. Comfortable apartment, for the price.

Some of the meals have been spectacular, particularly the steak.
Don Julio, a well regarded Parilla, is 2 blocks from the apartment, so we've gone quite a few times. the steak is liberally salted and then grilled to perfection. The beef is incredibly flavourful, and absurdly tender. Another great place for steak, at a cheaper price point, is Calden Del Soho, on Malabia and Honduras, a 10 minute walk from the apartment.


On our first morning in Buenos Aires, we went to an italian restaurant that serves breakfast. We had very strong coffees, and amazingly flaky and sweet medialunas, similar to croissants, but covered in a sweet glaze.


Before coming to Buenos Aires, we read a lot about the hidden bars and 'speakeasies,' of the city, and we decided to get into one. On our third night here, we went to Nicky New York, a sushi restaurant in Palermo Soho. After eating mediocre sushi, and being subjected to loud 90's rap music for 90 minutes, we were led back into the speakeasy. A quiet, spacious bar, with plenty of tables, and a decent music selection. After enduring an hour and a half of rap, it was a relief for my ears to hear Moon over Miami, as well as Cole Porter's Lets Do It,
Drinks were strong, very tasty, and at a reasonable price point.

We came back a few times to this bar, once we had discovered it. A wonderful place to spend an evening.


On our first day, in our tired post-travel haze, we weren't sure what to make of the city, but as the days went on, we loved it more and more, each day.

Yesterday, we went to the city centre where the National Asado championships were being held. Teams from every region of Argentina were represented. It was a site to see! People were sitting on the bleachers, and applauding, as if it was a major sporting event. The smell of meaty smoke filled the entire downtown area. I imagine that even the vegan protestors drenched in fake blood, were getting enticed by the smell of meat grilling.

More to follow!
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Old Aug 21, 2017, 7:29 am
  #5  
 
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Originally Posted by adrouault




Yesterday, we went to the city centre where the National Asado championships were being held. Teams from every region of Argentina were represented. It was a site to see! People were sitting on the bleachers, and applauding, as if it was a major sporting event. The smell of meaty smoke filled the entire downtown area. I imagine that even the vegan protestors drenched in fake blood, were getting enticed by the smell of meat grilling.
Cannot wait for some photos.

@ the vegan protesters
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Old Aug 21, 2017, 10:45 am
  #6  
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OMG I figured out how to post images!!! Yay.

The city centre filled with meaty smoke







Steak for 2!


And perfectly rare on the inside!


What's this? Another steak?






Amazing Kubeh at an Israeli place in Palermo



Perfect empanadas, filled with tender beef.



Locro, a traditional winter stew with squash, corn, and sausage.




Flowers on the grave of Eva Peron



Recoleta cemetery




Cafe Tortoni

El Ateneo bookstore housed in a former theatre




Morcilla, blood sausage, at Don Julio



Sticky, sweet medialunas. The perfect way to wake up.

Last edited by adrouault; Aug 21, 2017 at 10:53 am
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Old Aug 24, 2017, 8:21 am
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Those media lunas look great. Did you try them with dulce de leche?
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Old Aug 24, 2017, 9:28 am
  #8  
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I am impressed at the consistency that AM is able to pull off. Who would have thought that a bagel ex YYZ would be of the exact same quality and texture as one from SFO.
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Old Aug 24, 2017, 1:55 pm
  #9  
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Originally Posted by Eastbay1K
I am impressed at the consistency that AM is able to pull off. Who would have thought that a bagel ex YYZ would be of the exact same quality and texture as one from SFO.

It's truly funny.

I wonder if testicular injury is also a tenet of the service on Aeromexico? I guess I'll find out tonight...
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Old Aug 25, 2017, 4:47 am
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Amazing report we have got here.
I have always dreamed of going there, and i will be planing a trip for next year if everything goes well.

Hope you enjoyed!
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Old Aug 25, 2017, 9:26 am
  #11  
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Originally Posted by adrouault
It's truly funny.

I wonder if testicular injury is also a tenet of the service on Aeromexico? I guess I'll find out tonight...
I have flown 7 MEX/EZE segments (although only two on the "queen of the skies" 777) and I have the same number of balls, and they remain in generally the same condition (save a couple years' worth of wear/tear and age).
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Old Aug 25, 2017, 9:42 am
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Xarlot
Amazing report we have got here.
I have always dreamed of going there, and i will be planing a trip for next year if everything goes well.

Hope you enjoyed!


Thank you! It was great fun.
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Old Nov 5, 2017, 1:36 pm
  #13  
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Just realizing now that I didn't update this report.

Sorry!!


Taxied to EZE and checked in to the J line, which was rather slow. After security, got comfortable in the Aerolineas Argentina Lounge. After a few Fernet+Cokes, it was time to get on the plane.

It was 11pm, and as soon as wheels were up, I fell asleep. Woke up just as we were descending into MEX when the FA asked me to put my seat up.

I got very sick at MEX, and had to book a last minute hotel at MEX for the night. Not fun.

The trip as a whole was incredible, despite falling very sick at MEX.
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