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Springtime in Berlin via LH and UA J

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Springtime in Berlin via LH and UA J

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Old Jun 21, 2017, 1:44 pm
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Springtime in Berlin via LH and UA J

Nearly 2,000 posts, and this is my first-ever attempt at a TR, despite taking a dozen trips that should've qualified. Can't put my finger on why, but I'm going to Northern India later this year, so if this goes well I may follow this with another in a few months.

I've fallen in love with Berlin recently: this is my third trip back in the past year. My itinerary this time was BOS>FRA>TXL>EWR>BOS. I booked with UA miles, which meant I could take a free stopover at FRA, so I made a brief hop to Würzburg to visit a friend ... a stopover that caused one of the oddest travel mishaps I've ever encountered. But I'm getting ahead of myself.

You don't want to see the grimy Red Line train I took to South station, or the jam-packed Silver Line bus I took to BOS. My trip really began in Logan Airport's stunning new LH lounge. They've done something wonderful: for the first time I've seen, they've combined their Senator and Business Lounges into one space. It's open to all J passengers as well as *A Gold, so there's none of that idiotic sorting that goes on everywhere else. I've always thought LH has it wrong, making their J lounges so utilitarian and the *A lounges generally nicer and less crowded, though I get that it reflects the difficulty in making *G on LH. But whatever: my point is they finally got it right somewhere!

It was quite full (though not uncomfortably so), so I didn't take many photos, but this provides an idea of the decor.



No tree-print wallpaper in sight. Three large spaces, one just at the entrance, one for dining, and one with a lot of comfy chairs and spectacular airport views. Here's the 748 we'd soon be boarding:



There was a section of lounge chairs with the best views in the place. The direct sunlight meant many of the folks in the lounge avoided them, but I didn't mind.



Another benefit of the new space is the ability to board pretty much directly from the lounge, joining the rest of the line via a private staircase. Given what a chaotic mess LH BOS boarding was prior to this, even in F and J, this is a game-changer. Also affords some cool plane-spotting on the way down to the gate:



But the absolute best part of flying this route in May is the light load. The upper deck was less than half full, which meant I had an entire row on the UD to myself. Ahhhhh.



Obligatory PDB shot. The FA was careful to note that it was only sparkling wine, not the Heidsieck Monopole Blue Top Brut champagne she'd be pouring once airborne.



I also love love love this 5pm departure. Sure, it's a short flight, but I'm an inveterate early sleeper anyway, so I can usually get a couple of hours sleep in before landing. And when you have a view like this, and for all intents and purposes what feels like a nearly empty private plane, it's nice to have much of your flying during daylight.



The meal was lovely, though I should've asked for something besides the marinated feta once I realized it was very salad-like. Sort of ended up with two salads.





I'm mostly vegetarian, so the pasta seemed the best choice. Plus, I had a bad experience with a grey filet on LH J a few months back, so I steered clear of the beef.



Too full for dessert -- I didn't mention it before, but I may have inhaled a full plate of fresh-from-the-oven spätzle in the lounge -- so I stuck with cheese and fruit.



Just so we're clear, those are three consecutive glasses of champagne, not the same one sitting untouched. I watched Doctor Strange, then promptly fell asleep. Fortunately I awoke in time for this view:



Passed on the cold breakfast LH offers inflight, since I knew I could once again stuff myself at the FRA Welcome Lounge. I love landing @ FRA. Even though the metro area is massive, it still feels like you're passing tiny German towns on approach.



No photos of the Welcome Lounge itself, since it was quite full, but I'd strongly recommend it if only for the showers and food. I just wish it had windows and wasn't a mile from passport control. But again, the food was exactly what this breakfast-loving American needed. I was particularly enamored of the rösti, or as we'd call them in the USA, hash browns. For some stupid reason you can't get them at diners in Boston. Ask for hash browns and they serve you oily, oven-baked breakfast potatoes instead. Anyway I digress. These were top-notch.



Finally I noticed it was time for my train for Würzburg. I had splurged for first class using a service called Trainline, and I was glad I did: the departure was a madhouse. I recall all too well from my college Eurail adventures that sinking feeling going from car to car in second class, wondering if you'll ever find a seat. While hardly luxurious, this was much more civilized. The two hours flew by, and I found myself deposited in the charming, retro Würzburger Hauptbahnhof.



I had a couple of hours to kill before meeting my friend, so I did some basic sightseeing. It's important to note that 90% of Würzburg was leveled by aerial bombardment during World War II. So everything you see here is a recreation. Still quite lovely. In the case of the first church, they added modernist elements to what was likely just a shell. Evocative and largely successful.









I'm such a sucker for hotel breakfasts. No rösti this time, but they did have wonderful Bavarian meatballs that I snarfed up.



Before I knew it, it was time to hop on the train back to FRA for my flight to TXL; thus began a comedy of errors that nearly led to my missing my flight. My train was scheduled to arrive at 10am, and my flight was scheduled to leave at 1pm. A bit of overkill, I thought, but 1) FRA is a zoo, and I figured there was a chance my gate would be a 20-minute walk from security, and 2) I wanted to have ample time to lounge hop if possible.

It wasn't meant to be. First came the train delay: 15 minutes became 30, then finally 45 minutes late the train limped into Würzburg station. A bit peeved, I boarded and twiddled my thumbs until we arrived at FRA. When I got off the train, the station was buzzing. Crowds swarmed where there had been no crowds when I departed the day before. And when I made my way to the covered footbridge connecting the train station with the terminals, I was greeted with this:



I found an English speaker and asked what had happened; apparently not ten minutes prior -- and literally as she was approaching the archway, poor thing -- security had barred anyone else from entering and closed the metal gate. Some kind of "situation." 15 minutes passed. People asked the guards what was going on, but they stood there stone-faced. 30 minutes passed. The crowd became a bit more ... vocal. Finally, looking at my watch, I decided to hoof it. I followed a small band of intrepid folks streaming out a side door onto what appeared to be a utility road. No airport in sight, at least at first. I was getting worried when a helpful maintenance worker encouraged us to walk through a parking lot, and at last the terminal came into view. The walk took about 15 minutes, so if you're following along at home, takeoff is now 90 minutes away. Not ideal, but that's what padded itineraries are for: to soak up delays like this. I confidently headed for security with my mobile boarding pass, only to be told my roll-aboard was too big. "No, I'm sure it'll fit" I say. "Baggage check-in is that way." he said. I had forgotten the dreaded 8kg limit, which they take very seriously in Germany.

OK, fine. How long can the business class check-in be? Very long, it turns out. I got in line with about 15 people ahead of me. Noticed a *G line off to the side, but while it was shorter, it had only two LH agents staffing it. With half a dozen open positions, I figured this one would be quicker. 15 minutes passed, then 30. Turns out only a couple of the open positions were even cycling through passengers; at the other four, I swear to God, the same miserable-looking people that had been there when I entered the line were still being helped when I left it. By the time I got to an agent it was T-45, but I mentioned the issue back at the tunnel and she said she could check my bag for a domestic itinerary without a problem. Whew. No lounge for me, and a bit of a sprint to my gate, but at least I made my flight.

I never did find out what caused the security gate to come down.

While intra-European J is never pleasant, the meal was nice. Either that or after my ordeal I was famished.



Unlike some, I don't have any particular fondness for TXL. It's tiny and crowded and wholly insufficient for a city this size. I can't wait for BER to open, not least because it'll probably allow LH to begin offering nonstops from Berlin to the US. Still, TXL is undeniably cute.



When in Berlin I normally stay at an Adina Apartment Hotel, but for this trip I had a bunch of Chase UR points I wanted to use, so I booked a room at the Gorki Apartments. What a fantastic choice. It genuinely felt like a pied-ŕ-terre. My first night was in a standard room, but I knew I'd be having people over, so I asked if they could move me for my remaining nights to something with a bit more space. The upcharge was a ridiculously low €10/night to go from this:



... to this:







Simply stunning, and cheaper than you'd expect. As long as you remember you're not in a full-service hotel, it's a positively sumptuous choice.

My first trip was to REWE, the local supermarket. Much better customer experience than LIDL, which is like a miniature version of an American warehouse store. Given how homogeneous the world is becoming, I'm fascinated by the ways cultures still manage to differ. For example buying alcohol in a supermarket isn't possible in Boston, but even at a liquor store I doubt I'd find anything like this:



Beer + Cola + "X"? Alrighty then.



Let's just say a small boy hiding in a beer mug wouldn't fly as a logo back home. And finally, their idea of impulse buys at the checkout was pretty one-dimensional:



To be fair, 95% of the shoppers visiting this REWE weren't driving home, so the immediate objection is moot.

They also take their recycling very seriously. This couple had nearly a dozen bags they were returning to the store for cold, hard cash.



The main reason I was shopping was to buy sandwich fixings for the odd meal for which I didn't have plans, and a chief component of those meals was senf. Sweet, sweet Deutsche senf. Actually I bought the wrong kind and ended up with a tube of something that should have come with latex gloves. I couldn't feel my tongue afterward for hours.



Senf and salami safely put away, it was time to meet my friends for a drink and explore a new neighborhood: Prenzlauer Berg. But on the way, I met a friendly French bulldog and stopped for a photo. Little guy wanted to play:



I have a soft spot for Frenchies; my husband's and my own Frenchie went viral on YouTube a few years back and was briefly the most popular dog on the Internet. True story. Of course, that was back when 7.5 million views meant something. I finally pulled myself away and reached my destination. (One of my favorite things in Berlin is glimpsing the TV tower in the background, when you aren't looking for it.)



We picked a café partly because they had both Radeberger and Weihenstephan, the two German beers I go out of my way to find here in the US -- and let me tell you, it isn't easy.





Dinner was at I Due Forni right in the middle of everything on Schönhauser Allee. Sublime atmosphere, passable thin-crust pizza.



Dinner the next night was even better: my friend recommended Umami, and it didn't disappoint. Some of the best Vietnamese food I've ever eaten, including half a dozen vegetarian options.



Afterward we strolled through the KulturBrauerei. What bowled me over most was how diverse and family-friendly it was, despite all the alcohol and noise. There was a real communitarian spirit about it.



The next day I took the train out to Ludwigsfelde to visit the Kristall Saunatherme: one of the last remaining East German-style FKK sauna/swim spas. Zero English spoken, but it's not too difficult to figure out if you surreptitiously follow more knowledgeable visitors. Glorious weather, though no photos inside the gates, for, uh, obvious reasons. But take my word for it: the place is over-the-top gorgeous: think Disney, if all the patrons were naked.





Later that day my friends took me to Mauerpark, where they introduced me to the glories of karaoke with thousands of friendly, drunk Germans cheering you on, no matter what you look or sound like. It was like an episode of Sense8. How cool is that?







I doubt the planes were anywhere near one another, but the sight of their contrails crossing was neat. Also, I took the opportunity to befriend another French bulldog.



Alas, my flight was the following morning. Fortunately, I had managed to score saver J on UA, so I was comfy and well-looked after. The switch to Polaris has brought a huge improvement to the previously lackluster food, and the gel pillow -- only given out by the FA once you've proven you know the secret handshake -- makes the otherwise rock-hard footwell soft as a cloud.













And that's it. Oh, except I thought I saw Betsey Johnson at EWR. I was mistaken. But she had a VIP handler leading her around, so she must've been someone important.



I may be back in Berlin yet again in August, so if anyone has any suggestions for off-the-beaten-path sights or restaurants, please chime in below. I'd be especially interested in any other cool saunas besides Kristall. Hope you had fun!

Last edited by RandomBaritone; Jun 21, 2017 at 2:45 pm
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Old Jun 21, 2017, 1:51 pm
  #2  
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Great report!

Fanhansa?
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Old Jun 21, 2017, 1:54 pm
  #3  
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Originally Posted by enviroian
Fanhansa?
Must be soccer-related. And perhaps it's more of a clever pun to a German speaker?
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Old Jun 22, 2017, 7:24 am
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LH changed 8 aircraft from Luft-hansa to Fan-Hansa in 2014 for the Soccer World Cup in Brazil (as they brought the German Soccer team overthere as well as regular fans)

https://www.lufthansagroup.com/en/pr...icle/2965.html
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Old Jun 22, 2017, 3:34 pm
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Originally Posted by enviroian
Great report!

Fanhansa?
It's the 748 which brought the World Champions from GIG to TXL after they defeated Argentina in the Rio final. Therefore: Siegerflieger = Winner's plane
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Old Jun 22, 2017, 4:18 pm
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Great report, thanks for taking the time to write it and share.

Originally Posted by RandomBaritone
I may be back in Berlin yet again in August, so if anyone has any suggestions for off-the-beaten-path sights or restaurants, please chime in below.
You seem like far more of a TXL expert than me so this might not exactly be 'off-the-beaten-path' but one of my favourite Berlin experiences was the Sammlung Boros collection.
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Old Jun 22, 2017, 4:28 pm
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Difficult to tell from the angle but my guess as to the identity of the pink haired special services escorted lady would be Zandra Rhodes.
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Old Jun 22, 2017, 4:59 pm
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Originally Posted by Tifosi
You seem like far more of a TXL expert than me so this might not exactly be 'off-the-beaten-path' but one of my favourite Berlin experiences was the Sammlung Boros collection.
Thanks for the suggestion! Not a huge museum person myself, but I'll definitely check it out next time I go with my husband in tow.

Originally Posted by worldtrav
Difficult to tell from the angle but my guess as to the identity of the pink haired special services escorted lady would be Zandra Rhodes.
Good guess based on the hair. But the reason I realized it wasn't Betsy Johnson was that the more I glanced at her, the more I realized she was in her 50s tops, not 70+.
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Old Jun 24, 2017, 12:05 pm
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I loved this trip report, especially the pictures from the grocery store! I used to live in Germany so it brought back lots of fun memories. And I will definitely file the Gorki Apartments away for future trips.
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Old Jun 24, 2017, 3:00 pm
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Originally Posted by turnleftbrighteyes
I loved this trip report, especially the pictures from the grocery store! I used to live in Germany so it brought back lots of fun memories. And I will definitely file the Gorki Apartments away for future trips.
Glad to hear it! I wish we had urban grocery stores in the Boston area as nice as REWE, but most here are a bit shabby. I'm also a fan of the prices, which are on average about 25% lower than in Boston. And that's just for typical groceries; beer is half price. ^
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Old Jun 27, 2017, 1:42 pm
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Frankfurt Airport is a disaster; every time I was there, I had a problem.
I was in Berlin in 1992 and it seems to be so much nicer now. More things to see also. I plan to return.

Thanks for the nice pictures.
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Old Jun 27, 2017, 2:02 pm
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Originally Posted by Bretteee
Frankfurt Airport is a disaster; every time I was there, I had a problem.
I was in Berlin in 1992 and it seems to be so much nicer now. More things to see also. I plan to return.

Thanks for the nice pictures.
You're very welcome. I'm going again in August. We'll see if enough interesting happens that I put together another TR! Perhaps I'll just add a message to this one.

I wish I had been able to visit Berlin in the early 90s. I was there as a singer in 1987, as part of the both East and West Berlin's 750th anniversary celebrations. It haunted me, but I didn't get back until 2016. What I find fascinating is that I almost never make it to the former West Berlin when I visit now. The west feels like any other dull European capital. The east is where the fun is!
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Old Jun 27, 2017, 8:30 pm
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Originally Posted by RandomBaritone
Nearly 2,000 posts, and this is my first-ever attempt at a TR, despite taking a dozen trips that should've qualified. Can't put my finger on why, but I'm going to Northern India later this year, so if this goes well I may follow this with another in a few months.
Great TR, thanks for sharing ^. Looking forward to more .
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Old Jun 28, 2017, 2:15 pm
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Originally Posted by Madone59
Great TR, thanks for sharing ^. Looking forward to more .
Thanks so much! It means a lot getting good feedback from an ace like yourself.

As I mentioned above, I'll be back in Berlin in August, but I think that may only qualify for a new post in this thread. My big vacation this fall, though, is to India. I can only imagine how many photos I'll bring back....
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Old Jun 29, 2017, 10:49 am
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Very enjoyable report. Thank you for sharing.
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