Western Sahara, Atlantic Islands and Marrakech. Pop Specs sweetie! Very nice! I like!
Jul 6, 2017, 11:10 pm
#64
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: anywhere and everywhere
Programs: UA GS, AS MVP 100K, DL Diamond, Marriot Lifetime Titanium, AmEx Centurion
Posts: 5,525
VII. Barcelona to Las Palmas with Vueling, two nights in Las Palmas
Dropping off the car with Hertz was nice and easy, and we had already checked in online with the Vueling app, and they were happy to check my extra luggage and we were soon on our way through security. Security was really quick and maybe five minutes, and we still had over an hour to kill before boarding.
No lounge access with Vueling, but there are several Priority Pass lounges in the Barcelona Airport, so we decided to stop in one for some snacks and beverages. The self-serve beer, wine, and liquor was plentiful, but just like my visit a couple of years prior the food selection was rather poor. Oh well, still beats sitting around the terminal for an hour.
Next, off to the gate, where I would see if the excitement of my previous trip on Vueling (also with the purpose of going to Andorra) would be a repeat for excitement.
Barcelona, Spain (BCN) to Las Palmas, Islas Canarias, Spain (LPA)
Depart 21:40, Arrive 00:15 next day, Flight Time: 3:35
Airbus A321, Registration EC-MLD, Manufactured 2016, Seat 28D
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 62,459
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,439,436
Boarding was a rather disorganized scrum, but we soon found our way back to 28D and 28E, our exit row seats. I know we paid a bit extra for this, but for 3.5 hours it was totally worth it. Look at this legroom!
Can't say too much about this flight. Unlike my last Vueling flight, it was a very quiet three or so hours down to Las Palmas in the dark. The crew spoke very little English, but there was plenty of buy on board available, although I had to repeat my requests in Spanish several times to get what I wanted. My Spanish isn't good enough to know if they weren't comfortable in Spanish, or they were amused by my Spanish, or my requests for another beer were strange, but regardless it was a very young and friendly crew.
Perhaps the most excitement came with about 45 minutes in flight when there was an urgent page for a doctor. None was found, but we continued to our destination nonetheless. Couldn't have been too bad, I guess!
Since it was a domestic flight all we had to do was collect our luggage (which took about five minutes) and find our driver. We had used KiwiTaxi again (which we found out about on a previous trip to Russia) and they were fantastic with having a driver meet us. I'll stress it again: I love this website so far in multiple countries, and will continue using them. Stay tuned to see how they do for me next month in St. Petersburg, Murmansk, Arkhangelsk, and Minsk!
Driver was waiting and super pleasant, and soon we were at our hotel, the AC Hotel Gran Canaria. First off, let me say a few things: our rooms were nowhere near as modern as those in the pics. I didn't see any evidence of the lounge or rooftop pool (although we didn't look hard) and all the staff we encountered seemed incredibly disinterested and annoyed with any questions we asked.
The room was very comfortable and clean, the AC very cool, but the service was absolutely terrible. For the price, I was still happy with it as a choice - especially given the facilities - but the staff attitudes need a serious makeover!
After a great sleep, we went for a wander to find coffee. The first two places we tried were "closed for holidays" which seemed strange in late May, but we eventually found a little hole in the wall place with terrible coffee and great views:
It was almost noon by this point, so we wandered the beach for a bit more than an hour before giving up and decamping for some proper food. We found a little italian joint with good food, and more importantly...local beer:
The beach views were pretty good I'm not going to lie:
After eating, we walked the beach for another hour or so, but it was really just more of the same:
By this point we were tired again, and retired to the Café Caracas for some espresso...and tasty alfajores:
Odd statue in the lovely park outside the café:
We had noticed the El Muelle Shopping Mall near our hotel, so decided to wander over and check it out. It was pretty sad and anticlimactic, but several stories high and had a great view to the port:
There was also a nice patio bar on ground level, which afforded great views with a beer:
Based on online research, we had been recommended to try Tasca Galileo for dinner. Reviews cast it as a little hole in the wall with just a few tables, but amazing food. It didn't open until 8pm, but we were advised to be there early to grab one of the few tables. We camped at a nearby place before for a beer, and were there 10 minutes before opening, and I think we grabbed the last table. The whole restaurant seats maybe 20 people, but has amazing food.
I think we ordered six tapas over the next couple of hours between us, and several were delicious. Most memorable were the fried cheese with melon sauce, some great ham, and a wonderful liver dish. The wine selection was also really good and cheap, and the whole experience was amazing. Reviews said they spoke good English, but our "decent" Spanish was enough to not have to try in English. That said, there were some English folks there who seemed to be trying (and managing) in English, so it's a very tourist friendly place. Can't recommend it enough!
On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a tiny craft beer pub called The Situation. It had an absolutely amazing craft beer list that I totally didn't expect, and I only wish we'd been there earlier in the day and had room for more than one beer. That said, the one I did have was amazing:
It had been an interesting day of walking on the beach and exploring, but if you're the type who constantly needs to "do things" I can see how Las Palmas could be a bit boring. It definitely caters to the beach crowd, although we were clearly there the wrong time of year.
Relatively early to bed, because we had to be up early the next morning for our onward travels...
No lounge access with Vueling, but there are several Priority Pass lounges in the Barcelona Airport, so we decided to stop in one for some snacks and beverages. The self-serve beer, wine, and liquor was plentiful, but just like my visit a couple of years prior the food selection was rather poor. Oh well, still beats sitting around the terminal for an hour.
Next, off to the gate, where I would see if the excitement of my previous trip on Vueling (also with the purpose of going to Andorra) would be a repeat for excitement.
Barcelona, Spain (BCN) to Las Palmas, Islas Canarias, Spain (LPA)
Depart 21:40, Arrive 00:15 next day, Flight Time: 3:35
Airbus A321, Registration EC-MLD, Manufactured 2016, Seat 28D
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 62,459
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,439,436
Boarding was a rather disorganized scrum, but we soon found our way back to 28D and 28E, our exit row seats. I know we paid a bit extra for this, but for 3.5 hours it was totally worth it. Look at this legroom!
Can't say too much about this flight. Unlike my last Vueling flight, it was a very quiet three or so hours down to Las Palmas in the dark. The crew spoke very little English, but there was plenty of buy on board available, although I had to repeat my requests in Spanish several times to get what I wanted. My Spanish isn't good enough to know if they weren't comfortable in Spanish, or they were amused by my Spanish, or my requests for another beer were strange, but regardless it was a very young and friendly crew.
Perhaps the most excitement came with about 45 minutes in flight when there was an urgent page for a doctor. None was found, but we continued to our destination nonetheless. Couldn't have been too bad, I guess!
Since it was a domestic flight all we had to do was collect our luggage (which took about five minutes) and find our driver. We had used KiwiTaxi again (which we found out about on a previous trip to Russia) and they were fantastic with having a driver meet us. I'll stress it again: I love this website so far in multiple countries, and will continue using them. Stay tuned to see how they do for me next month in St. Petersburg, Murmansk, Arkhangelsk, and Minsk!
Driver was waiting and super pleasant, and soon we were at our hotel, the AC Hotel Gran Canaria. First off, let me say a few things: our rooms were nowhere near as modern as those in the pics. I didn't see any evidence of the lounge or rooftop pool (although we didn't look hard) and all the staff we encountered seemed incredibly disinterested and annoyed with any questions we asked.
The room was very comfortable and clean, the AC very cool, but the service was absolutely terrible. For the price, I was still happy with it as a choice - especially given the facilities - but the staff attitudes need a serious makeover!
After a great sleep, we went for a wander to find coffee. The first two places we tried were "closed for holidays" which seemed strange in late May, but we eventually found a little hole in the wall place with terrible coffee and great views:
It was almost noon by this point, so we wandered the beach for a bit more than an hour before giving up and decamping for some proper food. We found a little italian joint with good food, and more importantly...local beer:
The beach views were pretty good I'm not going to lie:
After eating, we walked the beach for another hour or so, but it was really just more of the same:
By this point we were tired again, and retired to the Café Caracas for some espresso...and tasty alfajores:
Odd statue in the lovely park outside the café:
We had noticed the El Muelle Shopping Mall near our hotel, so decided to wander over and check it out. It was pretty sad and anticlimactic, but several stories high and had a great view to the port:
There was also a nice patio bar on ground level, which afforded great views with a beer:
Based on online research, we had been recommended to try Tasca Galileo for dinner. Reviews cast it as a little hole in the wall with just a few tables, but amazing food. It didn't open until 8pm, but we were advised to be there early to grab one of the few tables. We camped at a nearby place before for a beer, and were there 10 minutes before opening, and I think we grabbed the last table. The whole restaurant seats maybe 20 people, but has amazing food.
I think we ordered six tapas over the next couple of hours between us, and several were delicious. Most memorable were the fried cheese with melon sauce, some great ham, and a wonderful liver dish. The wine selection was also really good and cheap, and the whole experience was amazing. Reviews said they spoke good English, but our "decent" Spanish was enough to not have to try in English. That said, there were some English folks there who seemed to be trying (and managing) in English, so it's a very tourist friendly place. Can't recommend it enough!
On the way back to the hotel we stopped at a tiny craft beer pub called The Situation. It had an absolutely amazing craft beer list that I totally didn't expect, and I only wish we'd been there earlier in the day and had room for more than one beer. That said, the one I did have was amazing:
It had been an interesting day of walking on the beach and exploring, but if you're the type who constantly needs to "do things" I can see how Las Palmas could be a bit boring. It definitely caters to the beach crowd, although we were clearly there the wrong time of year.
Relatively early to bed, because we had to be up early the next morning for our onward travels...
Jul 7, 2017, 11:43 pm
#65
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: anywhere and everywhere
Programs: UA GS, AS MVP 100K, DL Diamond, Marriot Lifetime Titanium, AmEx Centurion
Posts: 5,525
VIII. Las Palmas to Funchal, Madeira with Binter Canarias, two nights in Madeira
Up way too early, and check out at the AC Hotel was just as inefficient as the check in had been. Overall, given the price and quality of the room I would stay here again, but for a major chain hotel it was one of the least welcoming and service-oriented I have stayed in in a long time.
To that point that when we tried to take the airport shuttle to the airport (which we had confirmed the day before) the driver refused to take us, saying there were no reservations. Only by complaining to the front desk (who also had no record of our reservation from the day before) did they begrudgingly agree to take us. Oh, and on the way, we stopped at the other AC hotel and picked up several people. Were they just planning to not go at all? It made no sense.
We got to the airport, and check-in was an equally unpleasant experience. The checkin agent from Binter Canarias made a dramatic point of telling us it was a very small plane, and no, you can't carry your bags on with you. Lots of sighing and unhappiness, but no requests for money, and our larger bags were checked. We were off to security which was quick and efficient, and then I was on a mission: find the Starbucks allegedly located somewhere in this airport.
It wasn't too hard to find at the far end of the terminal from where our gate was, although they clearly had spelling issues. Also, not too sure why there's Hebrew writing on my Evian bottle off the western coast of Africa, but it is what it is. I had caffeine, and I was a happy camper.
By the time we made our way to the gate it was almost time to board, which was via a bus, but all in all pretty quick and efficient. No complaints at all.
Binter Canarias flight 912
Las Palmas, Islas Canarias, Spain (LPA) to Funchal, Madeira, Portugal (FNC)
Depart 10:50, Arrive 12:20, Flight Time: 1:30
ATR 72-500, Registration EC-JQL, Manufactured 2006, Seat 11C
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 62,798
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,439,775
Nice short flight in a relatively newish ATR-72, and to Binter's credit, they served a sandwich and choice of drink on this short flight. I never feel like juice, but decided to order a pineapple juice. Maybe I subconsciously wanted to show that I knew the Spanish word for pineapple - who knows. Overall, given the flight length, aircraft, and route, I was pretty impressed overall with Binter (minus the salty checkin agent, of course).
After landing, I waited for our bags while Ian went and got the rental car sorted. He was driving this time, due to the lack of affordable automatic transitions, so it was up to him how and in what we got around. We got a relatively tiny car, which in the end would turn out to be somewhat of a blessing on the compact roads of Madeira.
Thanks to google maps, we had no problem at all finding the "hotel" we had reserved on booking.com, which in reality was really more of an AirBnB type situation. It was someone's apartment which they had found a way to list, and honestly, it was my first AirBnB type stay. The owner was super good with communication in advance, and had directed us to a local parking garage which was perfect for us - about five minutes walk from the flat.
When we got there, the housekeeping lady was waiting for us, and gave us the keys without saying much at all. I got the impression she thought we wouldn't speak/understand Portuguese at all, and that was fine. The flat was absolutely huge, about 100 square meters, with three bedrooms - way more than we needed. Yes, there was no air conditioning, which wasn't great as it was quite warm, but for a couple of nights we dealt with it.
After grabbing a quick lunch near the flat, we decided to take the cable car up to the top of the mountains to see Madeira from above. The view just after leaving the cable car station:
Crossing over a highway on the way to the top:
View from the top:
We grabbed a small snack at the top (there's a local liquor called "poncha" which is basically a strong fruit-based liquor with a pretty high alcohol content) so I had a mandarin one and a delicious Portuguese tart before walking around a bit. After walking around, it was time for the long cable car ride back to sea level. Pic on the way down with another car crossing behind:
Nearing the coast again. Nothing but Atlantic Ocean in the distance:
We relaxed for a bit in the flat and had a couple of glasses of wine, before heading out to find some dinner. We walked along the water to a place that looked interesting called Beerhouse. Even if the food wouldn't be great, the view of all the boats on the water plus the hills of Madeira made for a great view:
After dinner we walked down the busy street near the flat (the Rua de Santa Maria) which was full of restaurants and bars. We stopped at a place called the Mercearia da Poncha which had just about every kind of poncha imaginable on the menu. I forget what Ian had, but I was brave and tried the absinthe poncha. It was definitely a good nightcap, and despite the warm temperatures in the flat I slept reasonably well.
Up early the next morning to begin our driving adventure around Madeira. We had slept in a bit and gotten a reasonably late start, so grabbed brunch near the flat which did reasonable coffees and sandwiches. Shortly before noon, we were finally ready to head out and explore the island.
We headed west out of town, to what was flagged as a great viewpoint - a "miradouro" which would become a term we would be familiar with over the next few days. The drive to the top was pretty terrifying as someone who doesn't do great with heights, but when we got to the top of the Cabo Girão viewpoint we were rewarded with a great view:
Steep cliffs, 600 meter drop straight into the Atlantic:
After a small snack and a poncha to deal with the winding roads, we headed west to turn inland towards the north coast of Madeira on the VE4 road. Great views in the valley between two mountains/hills:
Looking down into the valley. Winding roads and hills everywhere:
Looking back towards the southern coast of Madeira. Gorgeous views:
After we reached the northern shore we turned east on the VE1. For some reason, google maps didn't think this was a great way to the eastern coast (it wanted to send is all the way back south and east instead of along the northern shore) but with views like this, they must be wrong:
As we continued east, the road got progressively worse, until it was like this....hundreds of feet in elevation from the shore, and look at that tiny tunnel ahead:
Yes, this was taken from the car on the tiny road we were on. The northern shore almost reminded me of the Road from Hana on Maui, which has some similarly narrow and high up scary roads:
But the views made it so worth it:
I mean, look at this. Worth every minute of the relatively terrifying drive:
Eventually we got close to the eastern tip of the island, and the roads majorly improved. After stopping at a gas station for some Red Bull and snacks, we continued to the eastern tip of the island. The Ponta do Buraco looked to be a pretty major viewpoint (again, miradouro in Portuguese) on google maps, and it lived up to it when we got there:
I mean, look at the panorama of the bay:
Posing for a pic against beautiful nature:
After driving back to the city it was already evening, and a quick shower saw us off to dinner. We decided to stay near the flat since we had an early morning coming up, and ate at Restaurant.Mozart. The Maitre D (dressed as Salieri) was an absolute hoot, and stopped by our table repeatedly during dinner to check up on us. Personally, I think he just had a thing for FlyIgglesFly
.Bottle of wine and tasting menu ordered, and away we go. Amuse bouche...with a Dorito. Very nouvelle cuisine of them:
For a starter, I went with the Beethoven, which was a delicious octopus carpaccio:
Next up was the Pedro de Cristo, parrot fish with baked tomato and brie cheese. Also excellent.
Selfie against the restaurant sign. We might have had a bit of wine at this point.
a small pre-dessert. As I mentioned, the service was excellent:
Desert was the Handel - honey cake pudding with crunchy topping and ice cream. Amazing.
The whole dinner was superb, and for the price I can't recommend Mozart highly enough. Al fresco dining, super service, and a super tasty meal. Overall, much much more than I expected to find on the dining scene in Funchal!
After a good night of sleep, we picked a random cafe near the car park for breakfast the next morning. Espresso and pasteis de nata (portuguese custard tarts) for breakfast - can't beat it for three euro!
After breakfast we left the flat (just leave the keys inside) and parked the car to check out the Christian Renaldo (aka CR7) museum. It was the biggest egopiece of a museum I've ever seen (and I've been to North Korea) - the trophy room:
Vanity paintings all over the walls:
Even the staircase to the lower level was nothing but vanity:
Someone loves himself:
All in all, we crammed a lot into 1.5 days in Madeira. I could see spending more time there, but only if you wanted a really relaxing trip - or wanted to take things slowly. The driving is definitely not for the faint of heart, but I was super impressed by the quality of the food and the nature on the island.
Next, it was off to the airport and onto another Portuguese Island group, the Azores!
To that point that when we tried to take the airport shuttle to the airport (which we had confirmed the day before) the driver refused to take us, saying there were no reservations. Only by complaining to the front desk (who also had no record of our reservation from the day before) did they begrudgingly agree to take us. Oh, and on the way, we stopped at the other AC hotel and picked up several people. Were they just planning to not go at all? It made no sense.
We got to the airport, and check-in was an equally unpleasant experience. The checkin agent from Binter Canarias made a dramatic point of telling us it was a very small plane, and no, you can't carry your bags on with you. Lots of sighing and unhappiness, but no requests for money, and our larger bags were checked. We were off to security which was quick and efficient, and then I was on a mission: find the Starbucks allegedly located somewhere in this airport.
It wasn't too hard to find at the far end of the terminal from where our gate was, although they clearly had spelling issues. Also, not too sure why there's Hebrew writing on my Evian bottle off the western coast of Africa, but it is what it is. I had caffeine, and I was a happy camper.
By the time we made our way to the gate it was almost time to board, which was via a bus, but all in all pretty quick and efficient. No complaints at all.
Binter Canarias flight 912
Las Palmas, Islas Canarias, Spain (LPA) to Funchal, Madeira, Portugal (FNC)
Depart 10:50, Arrive 12:20, Flight Time: 1:30
ATR 72-500, Registration EC-JQL, Manufactured 2006, Seat 11C
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 62,798
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,439,775
Nice short flight in a relatively newish ATR-72, and to Binter's credit, they served a sandwich and choice of drink on this short flight. I never feel like juice, but decided to order a pineapple juice. Maybe I subconsciously wanted to show that I knew the Spanish word for pineapple - who knows. Overall, given the flight length, aircraft, and route, I was pretty impressed overall with Binter (minus the salty checkin agent, of course).
After landing, I waited for our bags while Ian went and got the rental car sorted. He was driving this time, due to the lack of affordable automatic transitions, so it was up to him how and in what we got around. We got a relatively tiny car, which in the end would turn out to be somewhat of a blessing on the compact roads of Madeira.
Thanks to google maps, we had no problem at all finding the "hotel" we had reserved on booking.com, which in reality was really more of an AirBnB type situation. It was someone's apartment which they had found a way to list, and honestly, it was my first AirBnB type stay. The owner was super good with communication in advance, and had directed us to a local parking garage which was perfect for us - about five minutes walk from the flat.
When we got there, the housekeeping lady was waiting for us, and gave us the keys without saying much at all. I got the impression she thought we wouldn't speak/understand Portuguese at all, and that was fine. The flat was absolutely huge, about 100 square meters, with three bedrooms - way more than we needed. Yes, there was no air conditioning, which wasn't great as it was quite warm, but for a couple of nights we dealt with it.
After grabbing a quick lunch near the flat, we decided to take the cable car up to the top of the mountains to see Madeira from above. The view just after leaving the cable car station:
Crossing over a highway on the way to the top:
View from the top:
We grabbed a small snack at the top (there's a local liquor called "poncha" which is basically a strong fruit-based liquor with a pretty high alcohol content) so I had a mandarin one and a delicious Portuguese tart before walking around a bit. After walking around, it was time for the long cable car ride back to sea level. Pic on the way down with another car crossing behind:
Nearing the coast again. Nothing but Atlantic Ocean in the distance:
We relaxed for a bit in the flat and had a couple of glasses of wine, before heading out to find some dinner. We walked along the water to a place that looked interesting called Beerhouse. Even if the food wouldn't be great, the view of all the boats on the water plus the hills of Madeira made for a great view:
After dinner we walked down the busy street near the flat (the Rua de Santa Maria) which was full of restaurants and bars. We stopped at a place called the Mercearia da Poncha which had just about every kind of poncha imaginable on the menu. I forget what Ian had, but I was brave and tried the absinthe poncha. It was definitely a good nightcap, and despite the warm temperatures in the flat I slept reasonably well.
Up early the next morning to begin our driving adventure around Madeira. We had slept in a bit and gotten a reasonably late start, so grabbed brunch near the flat which did reasonable coffees and sandwiches. Shortly before noon, we were finally ready to head out and explore the island.
We headed west out of town, to what was flagged as a great viewpoint - a "miradouro" which would become a term we would be familiar with over the next few days. The drive to the top was pretty terrifying as someone who doesn't do great with heights, but when we got to the top of the Cabo Girão viewpoint we were rewarded with a great view:
Steep cliffs, 600 meter drop straight into the Atlantic:
After a small snack and a poncha to deal with the winding roads, we headed west to turn inland towards the north coast of Madeira on the VE4 road. Great views in the valley between two mountains/hills:
Looking down into the valley. Winding roads and hills everywhere:
Looking back towards the southern coast of Madeira. Gorgeous views:
After we reached the northern shore we turned east on the VE1. For some reason, google maps didn't think this was a great way to the eastern coast (it wanted to send is all the way back south and east instead of along the northern shore) but with views like this, they must be wrong:
As we continued east, the road got progressively worse, until it was like this....hundreds of feet in elevation from the shore, and look at that tiny tunnel ahead:
Yes, this was taken from the car on the tiny road we were on. The northern shore almost reminded me of the Road from Hana on Maui, which has some similarly narrow and high up scary roads:
But the views made it so worth it:
I mean, look at this. Worth every minute of the relatively terrifying drive:
Eventually we got close to the eastern tip of the island, and the roads majorly improved. After stopping at a gas station for some Red Bull and snacks, we continued to the eastern tip of the island. The Ponta do Buraco looked to be a pretty major viewpoint (again, miradouro in Portuguese) on google maps, and it lived up to it when we got there:
I mean, look at the panorama of the bay:
Posing for a pic against beautiful nature:
After driving back to the city it was already evening, and a quick shower saw us off to dinner. We decided to stay near the flat since we had an early morning coming up, and ate at Restaurant.Mozart. The Maitre D (dressed as Salieri) was an absolute hoot, and stopped by our table repeatedly during dinner to check up on us. Personally, I think he just had a thing for FlyIgglesFly
.Bottle of wine and tasting menu ordered, and away we go. Amuse bouche...with a Dorito. Very nouvelle cuisine of them:For a starter, I went with the Beethoven, which was a delicious octopus carpaccio:
Next up was the Pedro de Cristo, parrot fish with baked tomato and brie cheese. Also excellent.
Selfie against the restaurant sign. We might have had a bit of wine at this point.
a small pre-dessert. As I mentioned, the service was excellent:
Desert was the Handel - honey cake pudding with crunchy topping and ice cream. Amazing.
The whole dinner was superb, and for the price I can't recommend Mozart highly enough. Al fresco dining, super service, and a super tasty meal. Overall, much much more than I expected to find on the dining scene in Funchal!
After a good night of sleep, we picked a random cafe near the car park for breakfast the next morning. Espresso and pasteis de nata (portuguese custard tarts) for breakfast - can't beat it for three euro!
After breakfast we left the flat (just leave the keys inside) and parked the car to check out the Christian Renaldo (aka CR7) museum. It was the biggest egopiece of a museum I've ever seen (and I've been to North Korea) - the trophy room:
Vanity paintings all over the walls:
Even the staircase to the lower level was nothing but vanity:
Someone loves himself:
All in all, we crammed a lot into 1.5 days in Madeira. I could see spending more time there, but only if you wanted a really relaxing trip - or wanted to take things slowly. The driving is definitely not for the faint of heart, but I was super impressed by the quality of the food and the nature on the island.
Next, it was off to the airport and onto another Portuguese Island group, the Azores!
Jul 8, 2017, 9:12 am
#66
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 262
Nice trip report. Madeira also has plenty of hiking paths which is a great way of spending your time (if you have it) on the island. Madeira's Tourism Board has some nice articles on it.
And the Azores are beautiful and each island truly unique! Can't wait for the rest of the report!
And the Azores are beautiful and each island truly unique! Can't wait for the rest of the report!
Jul 9, 2017, 3:57 pm
#68
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: anywhere and everywhere
Programs: UA GS, AS MVP 100K, DL Diamond, Marriot Lifetime Titanium, AmEx Centurion
Posts: 5,525
IX. Madeira to Ponta Delgada with SATA, two nights in São Miguel
After enjoying our Starbucks at Cristiano Ronaldo International Airport it was off to the gate for our flight to the Azores. There was a great rooftop cafe where you could watch the planes taking off - which was quite fun on the narrow runway. Do a search on wikipedia for the Funchal airport - it's considered one of the most difficult landings in the world.
I briefly stopped to check out the SATA lounge which was partnered with priority pass, but while it had a few serve yourself drinks and cookies, that was about it. I had a quick cookie and a Diet Coke before heading back out to join Ian - I would have been better off getting a custard tart from the cafe with the good view!
The gate area was rather packed considering it was a turboprop flight only holding about 70 people, but it looked like most of them were connecting in Ponta Delgada to flights to the US and Canada. Seemed like such a strange place for a connection, but I would be taking that flight myself in a few days.
SATA flight 161
Funchal, Madeira, Portugal (FNC) to Ponta Delgada, Azores, Portugal (PDL)
Depart 12:50, Arrive 13:55, Flight Time: 2:05
De Havilland Q400, Registration CS-TRG, Manufactured 2010, Seat 2B
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 63,410
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,440,387
Quick taxi and takeoff, and despite the flight time under two hours we were serve a box snack with a sandwich and some cookies. Take note: I actually not only ate the sandwich this time, but it was tasty and I didn't get sick!
Nothing else really to say about the flight. It was full, but on time and comfortable enough - about all you can ask for on a short route like this.
Our rental car was a bit strange here, as the agency met us in the arrivals hall, and dropped off the car for us. They told us which spaces to park it in when we returned. It seems the agencies don't have big lots at this airport, so they just bring the cars in as needed. You actually sit down with the agent in the arrivals hall and fill up the contract while sitting there.
Drive to our hotel was pretty short, but the strange thing is that we couldn't really figure out where we were supposed to park. Street metered spots we found out were free on weekends, so we would be fine until 7a on our day of departure. We were staying at the Hotel Talisman, and check in was pretty quick and we were on our way to our rooms. Not too much to say about the hotel. Initial impressions were that it was a bit odd in that the rooms had no desk, but the AC was freezing cold and the bed seemed comfortable, so overall I was pretty happy with it on first impression.
It was mid-afternoon at this point, and we decided to go for a short walk around the downtown area and just get a feel for the city the first day. The next full day would be for driving around the island of São Miguel and actually seeing things.
First stop near our hotel was the Church of Sebastian:
As we walked along the coast, lots of locals were out sunning themselves on the concrete "beach." Did I mention the temp was only about 18C/65F? Maybe that's warm in Ponta Delgada or something?
Posing for a photo near the water:
The city gates, right by the Church of St. Sebastian:
Huge old tree in the courtyard outside the church of Sao Jose. Does anyone know what kind of a tree this is? It was so big that it actually had support beams holding up several of its limbs:
Not too sure about this statue outside the military museum....
We headed to the Taberna Açor Restaurant for dinner, and didn't have a reservation, so they didn't think they would be able to seat us. We asked if we could wait, and after about 45 minutes they did find a table for us. Incidentally, we tried to come back the next night and there was absolutely no way we would get a table. Reservations are essential here.
The wait turned out to be a good thing, as a small local wine producer was tasting his wares outside the restaurant. He had a small winery on the Ilha do Pico, and the wine was actually quite reasonable. It was good enough that we actually ordered a bottle when we got back to the hotel after dinner.
Speaking of dinner, the amazing local sausages and cheese plate. Super tasty with local honey and condiments. It was huge, and more than enough to make a dinner for two people.
Next morning we were up to enjoy what TripAdvisor reviews described as the incredibly generous breakfast buffet at the Hotel Talisman. It was ok, but honestly nothing super impressive. The usual fare, but what struck me were the people going back for plate after plate. I got the sense this was a bit of a group tour budget destination, and people were stocking up on the free food to keep costs under control.
We headed out in the car, and finally we figured out where all the people were hiding. See, other than the restaurant, the whole island felt eerily quiet. No people anywhere. All the stores were "fechado" - closed. It just seemed weird and empty. But the Sete Cidades "twin lakes" had tonnes of cars parked at it and lots of tourists.
The name of the lake is actually a misnomer, because it's really one lake with a road that divides it into parts. The different colours are because of different depths, so when the sun hits it it reflects are green on one half and blue in the other:
There was an old abandoned five star hotel next to the lakes, which was a great vantage point for taking pictures of the lakes from a higher perspective. Apparently the hotel opened about 25 years ago, and was in business for less than a year before closing. Seems it was just close enough to the city that nobody wanted to stay out there and be isolated, so it didn't have enough business to keep going. They kept guards around for a couple of years, hoping to reopen it, but even that was given up on. The place was complete abandoned and looted now.
Except for Pokemon:
We only saw the one above, but the walls made sure to let us know we should be on the lookout for more:
View from the roof of the abandoned hotel:
From the top floor, looking down into the atrium lobby:
Couldn't get enough of the view from the roof:
King of the Sete Cidades!
Standing in a heap of rubbish in the atrium of the hotel, looking up:
The lifts had long since been looted, and decaying concrete towers were all that remained:
We kept driving across the lakes to the northern part of the island and the Ponta da Costa vantage point. I'll admit I planned most of our stops based on where google maps indicated there seemed to be vantage points, and this one was pretty awesome. View from the top of the long winding path down to the ocean:
We walked about halfway down, and this was the view looking west across the northern part of the island:
Just me and the North Atlantic Ocean:
After driving a bit more we stopped in the town of Ribeira Grande for lunch. We chose the Restaurante O Silva which was said to be very popular with locals, and was packed with families having a sunday lunch together. I don't remember what kind of fish I ordered, but it was absolutely delicious:
We headed back inland after lunch to stop at the Caldeira Velha - which actually turned out to be hot springs. There was a nominal fee to go into the park, and it seemed the thing to do was to bring your bathing suits and sit in the various hot springs and relax. This one had such a high mineral content it was an orange colour...and so hot that it was actually boiling in places:
We drove on to the next Miradouro (I told you that word would keep coming back over and over on this trip) - the Miradouro do Lagoa do Fogo - the lake of fire. Another great view:
Climbed halfway up the steep path overlooking the lake. We were pretty high up on the island at this point, and there was a light mist we were so close to the clouds:
View from up high:
I should note there was also a cycling race going on on the island, and despite them reaching impressive speeds of over 40 kph most of the time, we found ourselves in a line of cars behind the racers at several points which had slowed us down. We were making good time, however, so weren't too concerned about making it all the way around the island.
As we worked our way around to the eastern side of the island, I found a lighthouse on google maps which looked neat to see. Nobody else was parked there, but we decided to see it. I found it strange that it was a lighthouse, yet we were very high up on a cliff at this point, but still had to park at the top. Where could the lighthouse be?
This sign should have been a warning. Walk down to the lighthouse, don't drive....35% incline down...
Yup, it was a pretty steep road...we did see one or two locals in pickup trucks doing it, but they clearly knew how to drive this road from experience:
We were rewarded with great views:
Finally, at the bottom, we were rewarded with the lighthouse:
Starting back up the 35% incline, I instantly regretted coming down to see it:
Walking almost straight uphill:
Amazing views.
Back to Ponta Delgada, parked the car, and as it was almost 8pm at this point we headed back to the same restaurant to have dinner. No luck tonight as I mentioned above, and almost everything else was, yes, closed:
It was odd. The only place in the city you saw people were at restaurants, otherwise the streets felt absolutely empty. Pretty much every restaurant, however, was either closed or packed full on a Monday night. It was the strangest thing. We eventually ate at the Calçada do Cais around the corner. Despite being out of several things on their menu it was a reasonably tasty dinner al fresco, which was perfect for the last night of the trip.
It would be up relatively early the next morning to start the trek home, and to enjoy a new aircraft type I had never flown before!
I briefly stopped to check out the SATA lounge which was partnered with priority pass, but while it had a few serve yourself drinks and cookies, that was about it. I had a quick cookie and a Diet Coke before heading back out to join Ian - I would have been better off getting a custard tart from the cafe with the good view!
The gate area was rather packed considering it was a turboprop flight only holding about 70 people, but it looked like most of them were connecting in Ponta Delgada to flights to the US and Canada. Seemed like such a strange place for a connection, but I would be taking that flight myself in a few days.
SATA flight 161
Funchal, Madeira, Portugal (FNC) to Ponta Delgada, Azores, Portugal (PDL)
Depart 12:50, Arrive 13:55, Flight Time: 2:05
De Havilland Q400, Registration CS-TRG, Manufactured 2010, Seat 2B
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 63,410
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,440,387
Quick taxi and takeoff, and despite the flight time under two hours we were serve a box snack with a sandwich and some cookies. Take note: I actually not only ate the sandwich this time, but it was tasty and I didn't get sick!
Nothing else really to say about the flight. It was full, but on time and comfortable enough - about all you can ask for on a short route like this.
Our rental car was a bit strange here, as the agency met us in the arrivals hall, and dropped off the car for us. They told us which spaces to park it in when we returned. It seems the agencies don't have big lots at this airport, so they just bring the cars in as needed. You actually sit down with the agent in the arrivals hall and fill up the contract while sitting there.
Drive to our hotel was pretty short, but the strange thing is that we couldn't really figure out where we were supposed to park. Street metered spots we found out were free on weekends, so we would be fine until 7a on our day of departure. We were staying at the Hotel Talisman, and check in was pretty quick and we were on our way to our rooms. Not too much to say about the hotel. Initial impressions were that it was a bit odd in that the rooms had no desk, but the AC was freezing cold and the bed seemed comfortable, so overall I was pretty happy with it on first impression.
It was mid-afternoon at this point, and we decided to go for a short walk around the downtown area and just get a feel for the city the first day. The next full day would be for driving around the island of São Miguel and actually seeing things.
First stop near our hotel was the Church of Sebastian:
As we walked along the coast, lots of locals were out sunning themselves on the concrete "beach." Did I mention the temp was only about 18C/65F? Maybe that's warm in Ponta Delgada or something?
Posing for a photo near the water:
The city gates, right by the Church of St. Sebastian:
Huge old tree in the courtyard outside the church of Sao Jose. Does anyone know what kind of a tree this is? It was so big that it actually had support beams holding up several of its limbs:
Not too sure about this statue outside the military museum....
We headed to the Taberna Açor Restaurant for dinner, and didn't have a reservation, so they didn't think they would be able to seat us. We asked if we could wait, and after about 45 minutes they did find a table for us. Incidentally, we tried to come back the next night and there was absolutely no way we would get a table. Reservations are essential here.
The wait turned out to be a good thing, as a small local wine producer was tasting his wares outside the restaurant. He had a small winery on the Ilha do Pico, and the wine was actually quite reasonable. It was good enough that we actually ordered a bottle when we got back to the hotel after dinner.
Speaking of dinner, the amazing local sausages and cheese plate. Super tasty with local honey and condiments. It was huge, and more than enough to make a dinner for two people.
Next morning we were up to enjoy what TripAdvisor reviews described as the incredibly generous breakfast buffet at the Hotel Talisman. It was ok, but honestly nothing super impressive. The usual fare, but what struck me were the people going back for plate after plate. I got the sense this was a bit of a group tour budget destination, and people were stocking up on the free food to keep costs under control.
We headed out in the car, and finally we figured out where all the people were hiding. See, other than the restaurant, the whole island felt eerily quiet. No people anywhere. All the stores were "fechado" - closed. It just seemed weird and empty. But the Sete Cidades "twin lakes" had tonnes of cars parked at it and lots of tourists.
The name of the lake is actually a misnomer, because it's really one lake with a road that divides it into parts. The different colours are because of different depths, so when the sun hits it it reflects are green on one half and blue in the other:
There was an old abandoned five star hotel next to the lakes, which was a great vantage point for taking pictures of the lakes from a higher perspective. Apparently the hotel opened about 25 years ago, and was in business for less than a year before closing. Seems it was just close enough to the city that nobody wanted to stay out there and be isolated, so it didn't have enough business to keep going. They kept guards around for a couple of years, hoping to reopen it, but even that was given up on. The place was complete abandoned and looted now.
Except for Pokemon:
We only saw the one above, but the walls made sure to let us know we should be on the lookout for more:
View from the roof of the abandoned hotel:
From the top floor, looking down into the atrium lobby:
Couldn't get enough of the view from the roof:
King of the Sete Cidades!
Standing in a heap of rubbish in the atrium of the hotel, looking up:
The lifts had long since been looted, and decaying concrete towers were all that remained:
We kept driving across the lakes to the northern part of the island and the Ponta da Costa vantage point. I'll admit I planned most of our stops based on where google maps indicated there seemed to be vantage points, and this one was pretty awesome. View from the top of the long winding path down to the ocean:
We walked about halfway down, and this was the view looking west across the northern part of the island:
Just me and the North Atlantic Ocean:
After driving a bit more we stopped in the town of Ribeira Grande for lunch. We chose the Restaurante O Silva which was said to be very popular with locals, and was packed with families having a sunday lunch together. I don't remember what kind of fish I ordered, but it was absolutely delicious:
We headed back inland after lunch to stop at the Caldeira Velha - which actually turned out to be hot springs. There was a nominal fee to go into the park, and it seemed the thing to do was to bring your bathing suits and sit in the various hot springs and relax. This one had such a high mineral content it was an orange colour...and so hot that it was actually boiling in places:
We drove on to the next Miradouro (I told you that word would keep coming back over and over on this trip) - the Miradouro do Lagoa do Fogo - the lake of fire. Another great view:
Climbed halfway up the steep path overlooking the lake. We were pretty high up on the island at this point, and there was a light mist we were so close to the clouds:
View from up high:
I should note there was also a cycling race going on on the island, and despite them reaching impressive speeds of over 40 kph most of the time, we found ourselves in a line of cars behind the racers at several points which had slowed us down. We were making good time, however, so weren't too concerned about making it all the way around the island.
As we worked our way around to the eastern side of the island, I found a lighthouse on google maps which looked neat to see. Nobody else was parked there, but we decided to see it. I found it strange that it was a lighthouse, yet we were very high up on a cliff at this point, but still had to park at the top. Where could the lighthouse be?
This sign should have been a warning. Walk down to the lighthouse, don't drive....35% incline down...
Yup, it was a pretty steep road...we did see one or two locals in pickup trucks doing it, but they clearly knew how to drive this road from experience:
We were rewarded with great views:
Finally, at the bottom, we were rewarded with the lighthouse:
Starting back up the 35% incline, I instantly regretted coming down to see it:
Walking almost straight uphill:
Amazing views.
Back to Ponta Delgada, parked the car, and as it was almost 8pm at this point we headed back to the same restaurant to have dinner. No luck tonight as I mentioned above, and almost everything else was, yes, closed:
It was odd. The only place in the city you saw people were at restaurants, otherwise the streets felt absolutely empty. Pretty much every restaurant, however, was either closed or packed full on a Monday night. It was the strangest thing. We eventually ate at the Calçada do Cais around the corner. Despite being out of several things on their menu it was a reasonably tasty dinner al fresco, which was perfect for the last night of the trip.
It would be up relatively early the next morning to start the trek home, and to enjoy a new aircraft type I had never flown before!
Jul 10, 2017, 4:30 am
#69
Join Date: Sep 2016
Posts: 262
Well, the whole island only has around ~140k people in total so you will find it mostly deserted everywhere. On top of that, it was a Sunday so that also doesn't help.
The Azores were mostly unknown to the World until recently when low-cost flights were allowed to fly to the whole archipelago. Before, it was an expensive destination visited almost exclusively by Portuguese. And the lack of tourist related infrastructures - like the rental car thing you experienced at the airport - clearly shows this.
The Azores were mostly unknown to the World until recently when low-cost flights were allowed to fly to the whole archipelago. Before, it was an expensive destination visited almost exclusively by Portuguese. And the lack of tourist related infrastructures - like the rental car thing you experienced at the airport - clearly shows this.
Jul 11, 2017, 2:20 am
#71
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: PNW
Programs: BAEC Silver, DL GM, AA Plat, NEXUS
Posts: 467
Great report as usual, Ryanair started flying to the Azores so tourism should pick up after decades of relying on Azorean immigrants in the Americas.
Looking forward to see vintage photos from SATA's A310s
Looking forward to see vintage photos from SATA's A310s
Jul 11, 2017, 8:33 am
#72
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: SFO
Programs: UA--no longer 2P as of 3/2012 and don't even care. Never thought I'd say that.
Posts: 781
Thank you for posting yet another wonderful trip report.
I have a question regarding the beer bottle photo--the one with the woman yelling "Dimitri." Any chance you remember the brand please?
I have a question regarding the beer bottle photo--the one with the woman yelling "Dimitri." Any chance you remember the brand please?
Jul 11, 2017, 8:57 am
#73
Original Poster
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: anywhere and everywhere
Programs: UA GS, AS MVP 100K, DL Diamond, Marriot Lifetime Titanium, AmEx Centurion
Posts: 5,525
Stay tuned....I'll finish this in the next couple of days.
It's listed in Untappd as: Chutney - Nano Brewery - La Laguna, Tenerife, Islas Canarias, Spain
...it was delicious! (are you also a fellow Hoya?)
...it was delicious! (are you also a fellow Hoya?)
Jul 12, 2017, 10:25 am
#74
Join Date: Jul 2009
Programs: Delta Gold, silver, what yr is it?
Posts: 2,417
Is your Untappd profile public/under the same user name?