ChristianKiev

PROLOG

Since a few years I'm posting my trip reports, using the German http://www.vielfliegertreff.de (HON/UA). To share my experiences with a wider community and to help planning trips I decided to give flyertalk a try, hoping the same picture upload links are also working here.

We, my girlfriend (V.) and myself are living in Odessa (Ukraine, not TX) where in summer it's just amazing - but in winter quite grey and cold. Therefore we're spending most of our summer time at home, during the colder season traveling to mainly warmer locations.

This trip report doesn't contain just one individual trip, but all of our trips during the winter 2016/2017 season.

I'm sorry for possible mistakes, but English isn't my primary language.

So let's start!

Again a summer in my paradise has passed, as always far too fast, unfortunately. It was a great time with friends, more and less wild parties,






sunsets over the sea while the basses kept us awake.

The weather was excellent, with constant temperatures around 30 degrees (C) and plenty of sun, so, after finishing our second floor with terrace, we were able to get tanned.




Also on the traditional run of the Potemkin stairs up I could participate this time.


Finally I finished 7th in my age-class (36 - 49) - okay, my trainer got first with a lead of 11 seconds.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Urrip6ifjQo

1st trip

By middle of September it suddenly got cooler and we decided to fly to Italy for our first short trip of the season. We were flying with LH from Odessa via Munich to Naples


and after 2 days with a rare B-717 (Volotea)


to Palermo. After checking out Palermo,






with its excellent food,


we traveled by car (AVIS, GLA 180D, what a bowl) on the first day via Agrigento




to Armerina, where, the next morning, we looked at the splendid mosaics of the Roman villa.




and continued



(the car was refueled patriotically - okay, it also was also the cheapest gas station)

via Ragusa


to Syracuse, where - even as a convinced atheist - I've been amazed by the architecture of the modern church.






In the evening walked through the old town and the next day via Catania (elephant fountain) and Taormina (Greek-Roman theater).


Close to Randazzo,


we stayed two nights in a vineyard, did excursions to the Etna region,


especially to Bronte (the Italian capital of pistachios). On the last day of our Sicily round trip we drove to Cefalu, where I at 30 degrees C hiked up the hill with its remains of a fortress, the little enthusiastic V. following me angrily in distance. But once climbed the view was fantastic!


The next morning we drove to the airport, where we took a flight with Vueling to Rome.

There we took another rental car (LOCAUTO - not recommended) and spent the first night at Lago di Bracciano, very relaxing.


Further onwards to Rome, where fortunately we already saw everything and could therefore spend time with to our Roman friends and shopping.


A friend from Odessa, who is a photographer, was also there and so we met in the evening at the Vatican for a small, spontaneous photo shooting.




The last evening we had an outstanding dinner in beautiful city of Grottaferrata.

At 3 o'clock of the 29.09 we had to leave the amazing Majestic Hotel in Rome. Back to FCO airport where we parked our rental car and flew with LH via MUC


back home to Odessa.

On arrival in Odessa we were surprised by 25 degrees C still, the beaches still quite full with locals, some of them even jumping into the waters of the Black Sea.

Unfortunately, as always, this changed quite quickly and the temperatures dropped to just over the freezing point within 10 days - because in contrast to Western Europe, we hardly have any autumn. Summer is almost immediately followed by winter.

At the beginning of October we had the worst storm since 1983 appeared. Roofs were covered, roads completely flooded, part of the wave-protection-wall swept away by waves up to 6 meters high, and even a woman was killed by a tree. So finally we prepared ourselves for the winter season, stored the convertible until the next spring.

ChristianKiev

2nd trip; 1. day; Odessa - Athens

Getting anywhere from Odessa is usually a bit tricky, there are scheduled flights to Kiev, Vienna, Munich (some days only), Prague (twice a week), Warsaw, Minsk; Tel Aviv and Istanbul. To travel to Athens UIA had a good deal with about US $ 350/person/ way via KBP in business class.

Since UIA only allows 2x 20 kg luggage in the business class and the remaining flights were booked in Y anyway, we had to limit ourselves to 3x 20 kg, always a bit difficult for us.

At 0430 the alarm clock rang, at 0540 the taxi waited in front of the door and brought us along to the Odessa Aerovoksal (can be translates as 'air station') for our todays trip.


Here it has shown worthy that I paid the surcharge for Business Class, because the Check-In-cue was quite long.


We received the boarding passes for ODS - KBP as well as KBP - ATH and had to go upstairs through the security into the probably noblest business class lounge on this planet.


Even the interior might be stunning, don't forget to have a look at the ceiling.


Even the food, overwhelming!


We just had two espresso 'maximized' 2 Lions. The advantage of UIA Business Class in Odessa is the separate transfer to the aircraft, by 'VIP' minibus -


So at least you do not have to wait in the cold until everybody else boarded the aircraft. Today, as usual, the boarding took a long time, because everybody has to stow minimum 3 pieces of hand luggage in the overhead compartments. When we got there, a few people from Y already stowed their hand luggage in the C-bins. But the PS stewardesses are rigerous, removed the hand luggage.

The 737-800 with winglets today was UR-PSH


which formerly served with Jet-Airways in India, but since mid-2013 is in service for UIA. The seats correspond to the LH-Pre-NEK-area, thus with broader armrests, fold-out center table and quite good legroom.


Before departure a drink was offered. I chose 'Uzvar', a drink from boiled dried fruits.


During the 40-minute flight the stewardesses served a small, cold breakfast, chicken or cheese as well as yoghurt, fruit, jam, croissants and even lye roll, the first I have seen in Ukraine.


Afterwards some tea and a praline.


At 0800, we landed at zero degrees C in Kiev, got an outside position and were transported to the terminal by bus.

Quickly upstairs to the international departures area with a the business class fast lane. Without any waiting we passed the passport control and went to the UIA business class lounge, where it was still quite fresh.


Here some impression of the lounge in the early morning:


Would be perfect for passenger shaming!

The food selection in the lounge was modest, industrial croissants, sandwiches and some Ukrainian cold cuts - anyway, the espresso is good and Coke Light available (no Coke Zero in Ukraine at all). There is also a smoking room in the lounge, so you do not have to run far, such as in MUC or, worse, VIE.

At a time, our flight was called and we made our way to gate D-11, a bus gate. There we caught the second (and last) bus to our PS flight for Athens, again a 737-800 with winglets, this time UR-PST (delivered 2009 to Ryan-Air, since 28.07.2016 in the service for UIA).

Unfortunately the seats were not as good as on the flight from ODS to KBP, relatively hard seats (artificial leather), without adjustment of the armrests, without middle table. C was loaded by 50%, Y by 100%.

With a 20 minutes delay we took off and soon flew over clouds southwards. On cruise flight height we received drinks and nuts.


The food consisted of a salad with nuts and feta cheese as well as rolls, bread or lye pretzels.


The appetizer was followed by the choice of chicken or beef, we opted for the beef with potato pancakes, mushroom sauce and spinach.


Perhaps it doesn't look as tasty as the high-spirited creations of LH or OS - but it tasted much better: the beef was not dry, the potato pancakes and the mushroom sauce as made by my girlfriends mother. I prefer airlines offer food they really can prepare, instead of offering highly modern but badly tasting food such as LH does in Business Class.

Also the dessert, a 'Napoleon Cake' in Caramel sauce was impeccable, could keep up with many restaurant.


When we came back across Odessa, the clouds loosened and we had a beautiful view of the Danube Delta between Ukraine and Romania.

Despite the delayed departure, we reached the Greek coast very fast,


landed 20 before the official arrival time at ATH. Once again we received an apron position, followed by the fourth bus transfer of the day.

The passport control was a joke, V. Schengen-Visa wasn't checked with a special equipment, just by sight. To enter Greece you could print your own Schengen visa.

It took some time until our luggage arrived at the belt, 'Priority' didn't work at all.

Since Athens airport is far out of town we gave the metro a try (EUR 10/person),


which from the airport reaches our destination (Syntagma square) in just over 30 minutes,


where our hotel for the next 2 nights was located.

We had booked the 'King George Hotel'


which belongs to SPG Luxury Collection, on points, surprisingly with confirmed SNA voucher.

The style of the hotel is opulent, traditional, usually not quite our taste.


The check-in was fast & friendly, so we could drive to our suite on the 2nd floor. The suite consisted of living room,




bedroom,


bathroom


as well as dressing room and was located towards the courtyard, so unfortunately a bit dark. There was as 'welcome' amenity, some chocolate, a small bottle of liqueur and mineral water.

After we had unpacked our bags we started to explore the city - I didn't have good memories from my last (business) trip to Athens approximetly 15 years ago.

We walked past the Presidential Palace, entered the National Garden in the direction of 'Zappeio'


and continue to the antique olympic station.


V. was so far not enthusiastic about Athens, quite disappointed in comparison to Rome, Madrid or Barcelona. So we went on, past churches,




and, in the old part of Plaka, stopped to have a coffee.


From there we walked around being little impressed, then made our way back to the hotel.

Since it was still too early for dinner, I went for just over an hour to the gym, located at the basement of the hotel.




But leg muscles at the King George Hotel do not come short: the lift takes so long until it comes, you better take the stairs up and down.

For dinner we were recommended by the Concierge to visit restaurant 'ERGON' within walking distance. I cross-checked with TA checked accepted.


We were led to our table and got the menu.

As starters we opted for a meze plate


and grilled octopus on lentil salad.


While the Meze were quite adequate one could not say so about the octopus (partially burned) nor from the lentil salad (sour!!!).

Also the main courses (which were already served while we still ate our appetizers) were only between average (Kebab from Macedonia)


and uneatable (the fish was burned on one side).


When clearing the half empty plates the waiter asked whether the food was fine or not - which I answered with 'No'. But he had didn't even noticed my answer, just left with the plates. The tip fell short. Conclusion: the best food of the day was the lunch during the flight, something that seldom happens.

We walked a bit further through the illuminated old town


before we returned to the hotel and called it a day.

ChristianKiev

2nd trip, 2. day; Athens

According to the concierge, one should visit the acropolis, especially on Sundays, very early to avoid the tourist crowds from 11 o'clock.

So we got up very early, took our breakfast on the terrace of the hotel,


with a great view towards the Acropolis.


Unfortunately, the food was nothing special, no comparison to the SGS in Bangkok or the Majestic in Rome. Even the "Eggwhite Omelette" they ruined.

Shortly before 9 we left for the Acropolis, about 15 minutes walk from the hotel.

At our arrival it wasn't buys, bought two tickets for EUR 20/person.

At the Dionyssios Temple and Theater we had a nice view of the Choros Theater.


We continued the steep path up to the entrance of the Acropolis, the Propylaea.


Within the Acropolis there is much restored and still a lot of restoration going on. The first sight, the Parthenon, was covered by scaffolds and cranes.


We started our tour, passed the Erechtheum


with its famous women's pillars


(the originals are located inside the Acropolis Museum) to the east side of the Parthenon, where we got a better view.




We climbed the observation deck to have a great view over Athens.


From here you could already see the Hadrian's Arch and the formerly monumental temple of the Olympian Zeus - which allowed us to skip the visit of the sights itself.


I did really don't know if the restoration work should please, somehow I find it good, to get a better overall impressions of how it once has been - on the other hand I think it's just not original anymore. For me it's too much new, which ruins the atmosphere.

So we left the Acropolis (but glad we entered so early in the morning, as by now it got very crowded), walking down again, seeing beautifully restored houses, towards the Acropolis Museum.




Architecturally, I find the museum fascinating, as one has linked modernity with antiquity. The new building reflects the Parthenon with its 7 x 18 columns.

(inside no photography allowed)

EUR 5/person entrance paid. Inside we first spotted the model of the Acropolis at its high-time.


After looking at the statues, artifacts and handicrafts, we also came to the original columns of the Erechtheum, which are allowed to be photographed.


On the terrace we took a Greek coffee before we continued our march around the Acropolis. If the path is still quite beautiful at first, this impression changes when you turn northwards the main road to the Acropolis: from here the street is lined with terrible cafes and souvenir stands that offer all kinds of crap.


We walked the streets, also this wasn't any pleasure, since sunday's flea market reigns, where all the scrap of this planet is offered.


The Monastirakiou square has shown to be a collection of garbage stands, besides dirty and overcrowded. After taking a look at the Hadrian Library from outside we quickly left the area.

Passed the Kapnikarea church


and turned northward, away from the masses of people. At Café ,Noel' we took another ice-cold, strong coffee, then walked back through partly very uninviting streets to our hotel.

As we arrived in our room we noticed that the housekeeping had removed our welcome amenity, the liqueur and the chocolate - which was a pity for the delicious treat. But a short call with the front desk staff brought help - a new set of chocolate and liquor.


After we had rested, I went to the basement for some workout.

At around 8pm, without great expectations about the Greek kitchen, we walked to the 'Balcony Restaurant & Bar', south of the Acropolis Museum.

We had a reservation for a table on the terrace. Very nice - but without a view of the Acropolis.


The restaurant is specialized in modern Greek cuisine, well, worse than yesterday it can hardly get, we already expected the worst.

The menu looked promising, we ordered starters, 'Greek Ceviche'


and a spinach/cheese pie.


To our great surprise the food was quite good - okay, no comparison with Italy, Spain or France - but quite edible.

The triple of the Greek salad was unfortunately completely forgotten, but after a long wait we received our main courses, a Greek seafood risotto


as well as Greek noodles (from cooked bread dough) with a sauce of burnt butter, tomatoes, some bacon and grated cheese.


The seafood risotto was decent, the seafood not overcooked. Outstanding were, however, the Greek noodles (gogizes), very unusual in its the consistency.

For the fact that we had no salad, we ordered two desserts in addition,


a Greek cheesecake, actually a slice of toasted bread with a slightly sweetened mixture of three kinds of cream cheese, including goat's cream cheese, and a Greek yoghurt with a topping of wild oak honey.

Just this yogurt, especially in combination with the incredibly aromatic honey, was simply stunning, sweet and yet quite light.

Including a glass of red wine and water the bill came close to 50 Euros, two euros less than we had for the scrap of yesterday evening. The service was friendly, but slow - but we had expected less.

So we left the restaurant full & happy, V. changed from her 5 inch high-heels back into sneakers and we started our night-time walk through Athens.

We walked through narrow streets of the old town, lined with restaurants,


churches and antiquities until we reached the Roman agora north of the Acropolis. From here back to the east, with a view towards the illuminated Acropolis,


until we arrived at the hotel. The iPhone showed just over 23,000 steps, 16.2 kilometers.

Our tip for Athens: walking blindly through the city during daytime, checking out the Acropolis and the Acropolis Museum, but do the the actual city sightseeing during the night - then Athens is much more charming, beautiful and even more romantic.

ChristianKiev

Because we had to fly Crete today, I got up at 7:30 am, went to the gym and completed a workout session - while V. was still in the realm of dreams.

Afterwards a healthy breakfast for me (it is always funny to see the faces of the waiters when you order 6 hard boiled eggs, then remove the egg yolk and eat only the egg white) and unhealthy with potatoes, sausages, bread and fatty cheese for V..

We then packed our bags, walked to the metro station, where this time we were clever enough to withdraw a group ticket for 2 persons (10% discount). Down to the platform


where after a short wait the train entered.

35 minutes later we reached the terminal, checked in on the *G-counter of Aegean, got our boarding passes for 4A and 4B without the chance of a free side seat next to us. Anyway, for 40 minutes we'll survive.

Straight to the Lufthansa Lounge,


which was quite crowded,


but stocked with a good selection of food.


I had the chance to visiting the smoking room on the lower floor, before we at 13:20 went through the security control to Gate B-20 (Small advise: in case the first security is very full there is another one at the end of the terminal, near Gate B-15, which is usually very empty).

Down to the, how could it be otherwise, Busgate where, due to Priority-Boarding of *G-members, we caught the first bus.


The A320-200 surprised with very generous legroom in row 4.


The only free Y-seat was by the way 4C, so we had the whole row for the 35-minute flight for ourselves. What I do not even understand is that on this flight drinks were offered by 4 stewardesses with two carts. The last passengers were getting served their drinks when we were already almost on the ground. Here it would be far better just to hand each passenger a bottle of water instead of even serving coffee and tea.

With, how could it be otherwise, a bus we were driven to the terminal, where our luggage, surprise, came first on the band.

We went to the SIXT counter, got our car documents and went out to the parking lot. I rented the cheapest car class, a Renault Twingo for 6 days at EUR 98. At the parking lot I was told I had free car selection - so we decided for a black Audi A3 Sedan with diesel engine and manual transmission.

Via the expressway east to Stalis, where we had booked a room at the Cactus Royal Spa Resort for the next 6 days, AI by the way. Sure you are now wondering, 6 days at a resort, plus AI, that does not suit us at all. The reason is simple: we made holidays with some friends, and they had chosen this hotel.

Unfortunately the weather was not as expected, cloudy, windy and quite cold. Luckily the hotel had a great gym.

The reception staff at the hotel was very friendly and spoke Russian, which also brought us a better room and free parking. The room, simple, very basic but clean,


with views towards the pool.


After a drink at the pool bar we went for dinner, of which I would rather not report. Just so much: we decided to eat outside the hotel in the future.

ChristianKiev

2nd trip; 4.-8. day; Stalis, Crete

After a few days at an AI resort I can only warn anyone, even if it's supposedly 5 stars. The included food is rather created to fill the mass (the hotel had approx. 160 rooms), without any culinary demand. The food selection was varied, but almost nothing was really convincing. So my breakfast usually looked like this:


Also the upscale resort-restaurant, where you had to pay quite high prices (Risotto EUR 16, Steak EUR 30 etc.) was a disaster.

Since it was still quite cold, cloudy and partly rainy, the pool did not pay off. And in case of sunshine you have the problem that many guests already reserved sun beds - even though it's prohibited.

So, on the 5th day we decided to drive up to the mountains south of Stalis, through Mochos to Krasi, made a short waking-tour


to the antique public 'laundry'


and took our lunch at Taverna Kares.




This is very nicely designed, the service was very friendly, the food delicious - but not outstanding.

After a small starter of local hard cheese, there was Mousaka


and lamb roast with artichoke in lemon sauce.


A small dessert consisted of homemade pastries filled with cream cheese and yogurt with local honey.


On the 7th day of the journey we headed east along the well-developed expressway towards Agios Nikolaios and Elounda. Compared to Stalis the landscape is beautiful, mountains just behind the blue sea.


In Elounde, we entered restaurant 'The Hope', sat down on the terrace


with a beautiful view.


I wanted to order fresh fish or octopus - but according to the staff only frozen products were available. So again: meze and meat, everything not very convincing.


But bad food seems to be a general Greek problem. Also when we ate outside the hotel the food was just terrible, the roasted lamb in real mutton (served inside still cold), the supposedly fresh fish clearly from the freezer, the Risotto over-boiled etc.

Otherwise we were just happy the hotel has a good gym, so I spend 1 ˝ hours per day,


in order to escape the pool battles.

Greece is ticked off with this holiday as 'no go area', we do not have to do this a second time.

ChristianKiev

2nd trip; 9. day; Crete - Tel Aviv

As much as we like to spend time with our friends, after 6 days at an 'AI ​​paradise' it was time to escape.

After we sat together until the early morning, the ringing of the alarm clock came like a hammer. Bags packed and a last breakfast - without our friends who had a later flight out. The check-out was very quick, gave back the key and 'Ciao'!

On the expressway I followed a taxi, the driver should know where the speed cameras are.

After we had fed the Audi shortly before the airport, we gave it back to SIXT, got a transfer protocol (we learned from the experience with LOCAUTO in Italy).

To the terminal where we got a shock!!! Already outside the terminal there were waiting masses of people, thousands, which were spit out of tourist buses, and tried to get into the terminal.


(At EUR 90/person there's a VIP-counter at the outside of the terminal, where everything is done for you, you can just walk upstairs to a lounge where you wait for the departure of your flight)

Yes, this airport is terrible, even in Laos and the farthest corners of Myanmar we have seen better.

I went to find the A3 counter and was positively surprised that this is at the far end, in another department hall for non-Schengen flights. Although this area is not pretty, but quite empty since probably 95% of the travelers fly within the Schengen area.

Within 2 minutes we were checked in,


could use the *G-counter. On the flight from HER to TLV only Y was offered, so I had already reserved seats in row 2 early enough, hoping A3 wouldn't change the seat pitch for an all-Y flight (rows 1 to 5 usually have 33 instead of 30). This one-way-ticket wasn't cheap for a 1:45 flight, but it was booked up to the last seat.

Through passport- and security control (about 10 minutes) into the 'inviting' waiting area.


*G doesn't give you anything here, no lounge no nothing.

We looked for a place on the metal benches, which we had to clean first, everything was extremely dirty.

V. spent some time in the duty-free shop. Meanwhile, the waiting area was getting full, more non-Schengen flights to London, SVO and TLV were called.

At 12:40, the boarding began, first *G, then parents with children (the aircraft was full of children) in one bus, and then the rest of the passengers in a second one.

And right I was about the seat pitch, in row 2 it was really generous for Y. Also the curtain wasn't taken down, placed behind row 3.

The flight was really full until the last seat, we had many small children around us, which was clearly audible. A3 offered drinks and a biscuit,

not much for a nearly 2-hour flight which costs EUR 400/person.

We both took a nap, landed on time at TLV airport.

From the gate to the passport control, which happened very quickly and without big questions. Interesting is the small slip with photo, name and barcode with which one got through a barrier to the luggage belt area.

Priority for luggage did not work, of course, so our luggage arrived very late.

We went through the green channel where our friends were already waiting to take us to the city center.

Since we normally don't like to stay at friends places for privacy reason, we had booked a hotel room at 'Rothschild 71' on Rothschild Avenue for the next 3 nights. Although I am a loyal SPG member, the Sheraton in Tel Aviv is off the list.

The Rothschild 71 is housed in a building from 1934, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Originally a clinic and the physician's apartment were housed here, todays boutique hotel in Bauhaus style belongs to the great-grandson of the former builder.

We checked in at the 'living room reception'


got the key card for our room on the 3rd floor. However, we were hungry, gave didn't visit our room and went straight to the beach, where we looked for a table at 'La La Land'.

With feet in the sand


we ordered a selection of appetizers as well as a few salads.


Delicious, the best food for a week (which does not mean much).

The view also fit.




Back to the hotel where the daily happy hour took place,


up


to our room.




Pretty done. However, V. found a large number of black, long hair on the floor and bed. When we saw the bedsheets had a spots I went down and asked the manager on duty to the room. He was shocked and quickly gave us another room, double upgrade to the double-storey penthouse suite.

The lower area of the suite houses the bedrooms, dressing room and bathroom,


while upstairs the living room


as well as a fairly large terrace with 2 sun loungers and pergola is located.

The view over the city is nice,


but can not hide the fact that some compromises had to be made by the given architectural circumstances: the shower & toilet, separated by a milk-glass-wall, is directly opposite the bed, the tiny sink is placed in a niche.

For 3 nights it'll fit.

After we had unpacked we were picked up again, went to Jaffa for a small dinner.


The food wasn't special. Luckily we weren't very hungry.

For a very tasty ice cream we drove to the city,




then back to the hotel where the day ended.

ChristianKiev

2nd trip; 10. day; Tel Aviv

V. first time in Tel Aviv and also for me, beside from business, the first holiday here.

By advice of our friends I had booked the hotel excluding breakfast and so in the morning I checked TA for the perfect breakfast spot. 'Delicatessen' catches my eye, even not far away from the hotel.

While a 'breakfast cigarette' on our lovely terrace


I enjoyed the view over the awaking Tel Aviv


Without mobile internet access, we were searching our way to the restaurant and were amazed by the queue in front of the lovely spot.


We signed-in a waiting list and waited.

While waiting, V told me that Tel Aviv didn't match her expectations, she had expected more of a miniature Dubai than a light version of Cairo. She thought of clean streets, renovated houses, flower banks ... but not so much dirt and rubbish on the streets, collapsing houses. Okay, I had not noticed this, had just expected nothing different, finally it's somehow 'oriental'.

Somehow we got our place and a menu in English was handed to chose our breakfast. V. wanted it classical, I, on the other hand, something typical. So I ordered some puff pastry stuffed with ham and cheese including a side dish for V., and for me the Israeli national dish, 'Red Shakshouka' (a dish of poached eggs, tomato sauce, chilli and onions), tahini (paste of finely ground sesame seeds) and a delicious salad of cucumbers, tomatoes, onions and spicy carrot slices.


Including 2 cappuccino the bill came to US$ 30.

Back to the hotel where we picked up towels at the front desk and moved towards the sea.

After spending time at Banana Beach


to have some additional espresso, we went to lie down in the sun.


The sand is very fine, the sea wonderfully cool with small waves.


With currently 28 degrees and partly small clouds it was good for a few hours of tanning.

Shortly after 16 o'clock we went back to the hotel, taxi cost similar or slightly higher than in Germany.

After we had rested some time we were picked up by friends for dinner. They had chosen 'Shila - Sharon Cohen's Kitchen & Bar'. The reviews in TA were promising and so we came up with relatively high expectations.

Since our friends are regular guests we were given a table on the backward, quieter terrace.


At first we had the obligatory bread with two very tasty dips, one Tahini, one spicy.


The food was ordered to share, so we could try a larger range of the offered food. First a wonderful fish tartar with nuts in a beetroot coat (photo I couldn't make as quickly as it was eaten), followed by a carpaccio of squid and a fish/seafood salad with lightly liquid eggs,


both also very good.

The highlight of the starters was clearly the next dish, a ceviche of Dorade in an avocado robe with avocado and beetroot cream.


The acidity of the Tiger's Milk harmonized perfectly with the avocado and the fish.

Next we shared two main dishes, halibut with vegetables and squid


as well as other fish fillets with ravioli, shrimp, mussels, spinach and vegetables in a delicious wine-cream sauce.


Normally I hate such 'mixed fish pans' because most of the seafood has different cooking point, fish and mainly shrimp are completely overcooked. This was by no means the case, all different products were cooked to the point, the sauce excellent.

In addition to Espresso we ordered three desserts, a modern interpretation of the Creme Brulee (the traditional I can't stand anymore, too often it was offered), a chocolate bar with caramel sauce and -croquet, as well as an Israeli dessert, which reminded very much of a Panna Cotta with a slice of fruit sorbet.


Now I love sweets, could sacrifice my dinner - and here it was just perfect.

In contrast to the desserts, the bill was "steep" (and alcohol has not flowed except for two glasses of wine and four Gin Tonic), but the performance justified it.

Back to the hotel, where the evening ended.

Tel Aviv for us is the perfect place for a beach holiday in the autumn/spring, not too far away, perfect weather, great beach in combination with the advantages of a big city and a varied cultural offer in the surrounding area. Here, you will not get bored.

ChristianKiev

2nd trip; 11. day; Tel Aviv

On Tuesday, once again a holiday, 'culture' was on the agenda. Culture and history are not only based on architecture and architecture, but also by tasting different dishes, you can go on a journey through the culture of a country.

It was quite late we went for a breakfast, once again to an area not in the best shape.


Also the interior of the café, pure history.


Where can one find such a thing?

We sat outside,


enjoyed Cappuccino, croissant as well as delicious mini-chocolate-croissants (more chocolate than croissants) Onwards to Old-Jaffa where we had trouble finding a parking spot near Abraham Shechterman garden.

Past Ramses Gate and towards the theater, from where you have a very nice view over the coastline of Tel Aviv.


On the Ha-Mish'alot bridge we sought our star signs, looked towards the sea and gave our wish before we came to the square of St. Peter's church.


Did we like the spot? No really. Because, unlike the rest of the city, it have been over-renovated, you have almost a bit of Disney World feeling. Everything to clean, too new, too many souvenir shops.

Friends of our friends own an art gallery in a beautiful historic building with impressive ceilings,


plus a great sea view.


Enough of history and on with culture, down the streets to 'Abu Hasan', the place with the best hummus of Israel.


The place was packed, so we ordered 'to go', three different hummus variants, Pita bread and onions,


He had to look for a place on a wall in the shade where we could spread our food.


OMG, fabulous! The warm Pita bread in combination with the hummus and the onions, just amazing.

But not only the standard hummus was delicious, also the version with beans, especially after adding lemon juice, was outstanding. Likewise the onions, almost sweet, only very slightly spicy.

A portion of Hummus is quite filling, so we walked back to the car in the burning heat.

Since our friends had hardly eaten hummus, they brought us for a late lunch to 'Manta Ray', beautifully located on the beach,


where a table reserved on the terrace,


We were still full so we ordered only two meze, both with squid.

After all the strenuous activities of the day, we just wanted to go back to the hotel to get some rest.

After we had fueled enough energy we went to the next cultural program, "Falafel" & "Sabich". While Falafel is probably well-known, Sabich is rather unknown to us, formerly an Iraqi-Jewish breakfast. A pita bread is filled with a combination of fried eggplant, hard boiled egg, tahini sauce, hummus, lettuce, parsley and a kind of mango sauce.

We had asked our friends - and everyone agreed, the best Falafel shop is ,Falafel Hakosem' located on the King George Street (corner Shlomo Hamelech). So we walked down the Rothschild Boulevard to the Charles Bronfman Auditorium,


turned left at Habimah (Israel National Theater)


to King George Street.

'Falafel Hakosem' was very easy to find, we just had to look where most people sit or wait.


Luckily the menu was also available in English, so we could order a falafel plate with salad and rice as well as a Sabich in the Pita bread.


I waited in line, V. was looking for a table and we started with a Pepsi Max over the Sabich.


Delicious, juicy and slightly spicy.

Already came the Falafel plate.


Also delicious, but it couldn't keep up with the Sabich. Perhaps this is due to the fact that for us both falafel and aubergine were too much deep fried, just not our thing.

Back to the hotel, we enjoyed the pleasant night temperatures, sat down on a park bench on the Rothschild Boulevard, watching the people passing.

What impressed us: rarely we have seen so many dogs, we think every Israeli has at least one, big or small. The most common language, by the way, was not Hebrew but Russian - especially extremely pleasing to V, as she can communicate almost everywhere in her mother tongue.

theshaun

Great report. wish I could escape the winters too

yurtripper

What's wrong with the Sheraton in Tel-Aviv?

ChristianKiev

Tel Aviv is a city full of beautiful boutique Bauhaus hotels. So no need to stay at an aging concrete bunker.

Vaterland

I thoroughly enjoyed reading of your impressions of Tel Aviv (one of my favorite cities) and Athens. I am disappointed that your meals in Athens were so mediocre; I have been toying with the idea of visiting Athens this year and was looking forward to experiencing the city's restaurants.

ChristianKiev

2nd trip; 12. day; Tel Aviv - Jerusalem - Mitspe Ramon

Since we had a long day today, the alarm clock rang very early. Again we packed our bags, stored some at the hotel and drove with light luggage for the next night by taxi to our friends who were already waiting for us with a strong coffee.

At 09:30 we were sitting in the car and drove to Jerusalem where we arrived at 11:00.

Leaving the car park you will immediately enter a newly built shopping mall with international middle class brands. Walking through the open-air mall takes you directly to the Jaffa Gate. We passed the gate near the David Citadel


where on the left side you'll a passage. When you enter the passage you'll find a beautiful tucked away breakfast spot named 'Versavee', which is housed in a building of the Greek Orthodox Church.


Our friends ordered omelets, we shared a 'Jerusalem breakfast'.


With new energy walked through the historic streets, which already have been used by Jesus Christus.


The whole city is somehow a huge market,


in which all kinds of crap and kitsch, mainly from Chinese production, can be bought. At first this may be interesting - but after a short while it annoys: Permanently somebody was praising some crap to us in Russian language.

But we managed to get through,


checked out the more interesting fare.


Through a narrow passage we came to the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, which is today in the hands of six Christian confessions, which must unanimously agree on every renovation, every little change.


Interesting is the history of the ladder, which is placed on the facade. It was forgotten to be take away after finished work approximately 1757 and up to now the six different denominations can not agree to remove the ladder. (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Immovable_Ladder).

The facade, however, quickly lost the interest of people, when as a small tractor with trailer maneuvered through the narrow archway, which we had just passed.


Respect to the driver!

Into the Church of the Holy Sepulchre


where suddenly the tractor appeared again, INSIDE THE CHURCH!


I am absolutely not well versed in the Bible, therefore please forgive me if I should be incorrect.

Many people were kneeling on a stone, paid homage to the stone.


We walked on through the church


until we came back to the forecourt on which Jesus was supposedly crucified.

Pass the garden of the Church of the Redeemer


through a souk (again with countless China rubbish) to the West Wall.


Here we had to pass through a strongly guarded sally port before we could go down.

A few yards off the wall, I had to borrow a kippa, put it on to get closer.


After we had done this sight, we had enough of 'culture', also because of the strong heat, decided not to visit the Al-Aqsa Mosque, and set off again for the car.

We left Jerusalem to the south, first through a wooded area, then agricultural area before reaching the desert.


At a gas station we got a soft drink


and bought some chips, because slowly we were getting hungry.

We drove through the Negev desert


until after a 3 hours drive we reached Mitspe Ramon. Our accommodation for the night was the supposedly best, most expensive and most impressive hotel of Israel, the 'Beresheet Hotel'.


After some minutes of recreation


we went into the lobby with a fantastic view of the 'crater'.


After check-in we immediately went to the concierge, because we wanted to book an ATV drive through the desert. Unfortunately, this plan had to be cancelled, since the ATV operator had stopped operations. Also motorcycles were not available and the Desert-Segway-Tour also took place again only from next Friday. Disappointing! So with the golf cart to the room.

Because of the steep prices we only had a room with 'Desert View' and breakfast booked. The room was at least very spacious, nicely furnished


with a spacious bathroom.


Instead of Desert-View from our terrace unfortunately only had a view of bungalows, some of them with private pool.


So we went straight to the hotel terrace


with fantastic views of the hotel pool and of course the 'crater'.


We sat down, ordered drinks and just enjoyed the view.

Since we had nothing in our stomach except for a tiny breakfast and a small bag of chips, he began to be seriously hungry.

The hotel restaurant had nothing to offer but the view. And US$ 150/person without drinks for a buffet style dinner isn't really our thing.

TA checked and left the hotel. Not far from the hotel is located restaurant 'Hahavit'


with very good reviews. Despite this we did not expect any culinary highlight in such a touristy area. The interior was nicely done,


filled up very quickly with tourists as well as locals.

We ordered a few appetizers and were surprised at first their size, but also because of their good taste.


If we knew how big the portions were, we would not have ordered four main courses. However, these were also of excellent taste, that we still ate at least half of them.




For the price of one person at the hotel buffet we had a very tasty dinner for four.

After dinner we drove past the hotel, down into the 'crater'. In almost absolute darkness the sky was just stunning.

At 9pm we were back to the hotel. It was very windy and cool, so we moved to our warm rooms and finished off the day.

yurtripper

It's Tel-Aviv. A bunker might come in handy sometime.

ChristianKiev

In Tel Aviv each newer house and hotel has its own bunker - so I don't have to live in one. Honestly, Tel Aviv is a huge Bauhaus museum. So in case you're a fan of this architectural style, you may find the perfect hotel or B&B to live your style.