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40 Days & Nights (Ghana, Togo, Benin, Rwanda, DRC, UAE, Lebanon, Myanmar, Sri Lanka)

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40 Days & Nights (Ghana, Togo, Benin, Rwanda, DRC, UAE, Lebanon, Myanmar, Sri Lanka)

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Old Feb 6, 2017, 2:47 am
  #91  
 
Join Date: Feb 2017
Posts: 9
Originally Posted by rivlinm
Woke up and skipped breakfast in favor of going to see a different side of Lomé before we had to meet our driver for a ride to Cotonou, Benin. Togo and Benin are commonly best known for their esoteric ties to Voodoo. Our first stop on the agenda was the Fetish Market, but there was one problem. We could not find it anywhere. Resources online are few and often differ in the details they provide. Luckily we were in the vicinity when we stumbled on a Nigerian man happy to take us once he understood what it was we were looking for.
Omg, that's really great!

Last edited by Moomba; Feb 6, 2017 at 5:51 am Reason: removed whole of post quote
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Old Feb 6, 2017, 6:53 am
  #92  
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Originally Posted by rivlinm
Not sure this was worth it…
Never judge on the first impression
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Old Feb 6, 2017, 8:14 am
  #93  
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Originally Posted by Travel_Dude
Omg, that's really great!
It was certainly weird...

Originally Posted by offerendum
Never judge on the first impression
Very true! Had the same feeling with Cappadocia in Central Turkey. Thought it was lame based on just the open air museum, until the next morning when I was watching the sunrise from the hot air balloon. Even if it was below freezing.
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Old Feb 6, 2017, 1:12 pm
  #94  
 
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Originally Posted by rivlinm

Lebanon loves TSwift
^

Great to see you posting to this TR again. I've really enjoyed reading through all that you've written so far and it has certainly put Lebanon on the map for me in regards to future travels.
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Old Feb 6, 2017, 3:36 pm
  #95  
 
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Originally Posted by kevincrumbs
^

Great to see you posting to this TR again. I've really enjoyed reading through all that you've written so far and it has certainly put Lebanon on the map for me in regards to future travels.
+1 ^
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Old Feb 6, 2017, 4:18 pm
  #96  
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Day 23: [BEY>DOH>RGN]

Our time in Lebanon and traveling in a group was drawing to a close as we did some last laundry and packing in the Airbnb. Before heading to the airport I went to LibanPost to mail a few postcards. Was a strange experience. Beyond just postal services they have you take a number like at the DMV in order to buy souvenirs, files your taxes, or pay for insurance. Very multipurpose.

Just before noon we hailed a taxi to the airport for about $14 and inside cleared security. Security is strange as you have to guess which terminal to first clear, but once you do so, you are back in a communal check in hall. The ticket desk for Qatar was a madhouse, but being in First shaved off quite a bit of time. They were very curious about my evisa for Myanmar and I had to show multiple documents including onward travel. Immigration was quick, but EVERY page of my passport was closely examined. Once in the central terminal I visited the lounge all of us could access even thought the MEA lounge available for QR was a bit better.


Besides the gates BEY is a pleasant airport

We didn’t have too long but I had a few snacks and then made my way to the next security check and eventually the plane. My boarding pass was cross-checked with my passport by three airline employees before I was able to board.


Zaatar and some other snacks


QR flight 425
Beirut, Lebanon (BEY) to Doha, Qatar (DOH)
Depart: 13:53, Arrive: 16:56, Time: 3:04
Boeing 777-300, Seat 3E


Onboard I was very warmly welcomed to a mostly empty First Class cabin and promptly was addressed by name and I knew this would be a wonderful flight, even if just three hours. I was quickly offered a glass of rose and dates, and made myself comfortable. Being Ramadan, they asked certain guests if they would be fasting although most didn’t.


Menu and rose


Date

Quickly after takeoff I decided to have a full meal, which was served just as I would expect. By far this was my best Qatar flight service wise. Knowing I still had a long day ahead of me, I napped as best I could for the last hour. As we approached I couldn’t help but chuckle how details for the Beirut return were listed on the IFE as a destination from DOH. All those visa or mileage runners I suppose.


A glass of Dr. Loosen Blue State Riesling and nuts


Started with the lentil soup


Meeze with hummus, tabbouleh and baba ganoush


Stuffed grouper roll with feta and olives


Cheese plate

Once on the ground, I headed to the lounge, but not before a quick visit of the Doha Teddy. The lounge was rather empty and that made for some awkward encounters in the bathroom with the attendants having too much time on their hands. I don’t need the soap poured for me and the stall door opened. Not to mention how they clean each stall within seconds of each guest leaving. I eventually found a somewhat quiet sleeper chair, but they are all located in the atrium overlooking the open terminal. Hmmm….


Never gets old


Al Mourjan Lounge


Nap area

After some rest I decided to have a meal upstairs where I picked out a few nibbles and ordered from the Al-la carte menu for what would be my last time before they ended that option in the Al Mourjan Lounge. No liquor was available in the lounge due to Ramadan, but that was the last thing I desired. Not knowing what internet would be like in Myanmar, I caught up on a few last emails and paid our Airbnb host for the damage accidently caused to the washer in Beirut.


Palak paneer


QR flight 918
Doha, Qatar (DOH) to Yangon, Myanmar (RGN)
Depart: 20:43, Arrive: 06:34 (+1), Time: 6:22
Boeing 330-200, Seat 3E


Getting sleepy, I stumbled to the gate for the short red eye to Yangon. When I booked this flight I knew it would be a risky connection with only 65 minutes scheduled between landing and departure at the domestic terminal for Inle Lake. Looking over the history of this flight I was confident in Qatar’s on time performance and crossed my fingers as boarding progressed there would be no issue. The flight crew seemed a bit flustered and many guests appeared to be traveling for the first time. The two gentlemen beside me were likes kids in a candy store with all the amenities and PJs they were offered. The back of the plane was rather empty and J was about ¾ full. We took off with no delay and I had a lite meal with the intent on maximizing my sleep. As we approached Yangon, I ordered a smoothie to refresh myself and prepare for the mad dash I would need to make through immigration, customs and into the domestic terminal hoping to check my bag in time.


On an empty flight, I still enjoy the QR 2x2x2 seats


Light meal of prawns


And some tabbouleh


Pre arrival smoothie
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Old Feb 6, 2017, 4:20 pm
  #97  
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Originally Posted by kevincrumbs
^

Great to see you posting to this TR again. I've really enjoyed reading through all that you've written so far and it has certainly put Lebanon on the map for me in regards to future travels.
Originally Posted by lamphs
+1 ^
Thanks for coming back to read! I've been so eager to post about Myanmar but procrastination has won for the last two months.

Hope to conclude this trip shortly and share my next two completed trips before I head off to run the Pyongyang Marathon this April!
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Old Feb 6, 2017, 11:44 pm
  #98  
 
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QR J looks like a great way to get to Myanmar, rivlinm.

Looking forward to the marathon run in Pyongyang, and to your take on Bangladesh. Just got back from Dhaka and it was quite an experience!
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Old Feb 7, 2017, 6:17 am
  #99  
 
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It took me an hour or two, but I just read through the entire report.
Wow! That's all I can say. It made we really want to visit Rwanda and Lebanon.

Looking forward to the rest of report.

BTW, are you going to write something about Nagorno Khabarov. Somewhere else I'd like to visit.
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Old Feb 7, 2017, 6:56 am
  #100  
 
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ah finally we're getting into Myanmar part
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Old Feb 7, 2017, 4:45 pm
  #101  
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Day 24: Nyaungshwe, Myanmar [RGN>HEH]

Knowing I didn’t have long to get over to the domestic terminal I was awfully nervous, even with our on time arrival so I was sure to be off the plane in a jiffy. The only problem was the first passenger off was a VIP of sorts and was escorted down a hallway that led to nowhere! Everyone seemed to follow the leader and eventually we discovered (when airport staff came running after us and the hall ended) we had gone the wrong way and I quickly made my way to immigration. It was super fast and simple. Still anxious I asked a few places if I was going the right way to the domestic terminal, and after walking outside in the extreme humidity of Yangon, I found my way to one of the more chaotic terminals I had seen in a while. It was swarming with mostly locals but luckily my airline, Air KBZ, had a very short line and I had my bag checked and boarding pass in hand. All in from touchdown to bag check it was just 25 minutes! Now I had to wait 40 more for departure.


Yangon immigration hall


Domestic check in – must defeat the scale boss first


Upstairs lounge/coffee shop

The terminal was little more than a large room with an upstairs that had a primitive bathroom and a tiny coffee stand. The flight display monitors didn’t display my flight, but I was assured I needn’t worry. With only one real “gate” they shout the destination and flight number (not that you can hear/understand) and everyone rushes up to board the bus. Besides having the boarding pass, they give each passenger a sticker with a corresponding color to their specific flight, likely to find foreigners in the crowd who didn’t hear their flight announcement.


Boarding “sticker”


The domestic terminal



(n.b.: I found it funny just a few days before I received an email alerting me to a flight change. Initially worried because of my tight schedule, I was relieved to see they were subbing my ATR 72-500 for an ATR 72-600. If only other airlines were was communicative as Air KBZ.)


K7 flight 200
Yangon, Myanmar (RGN) to Nyaungshwe, Myanmar (HEH)
Depart: 07:37, Arrive: 08:39, Time: 1:02
ATR 72-600, Seat 4D


Once boarding was shouted out, we rode a bus no more than 50 feet to our plan and quickly boarded. Just about half full for today’s hour flight, we were offered newspapers. Once in the air, an adequate, yet mysterious, snack box was offered. A select few passengers were given a hot plated meal.


Boarding


Clean interior


Even a credit card pitch in Myanmar


Not a shabby meal

Upon landing, bags were quick to arrive and I was quickly approached for a ride to Nyaungshwe for a non-negotiable $20. In my rush between terminals I had neglected to pick up Kyat (their currency at about 1350 MMK to the dollar) and when we approached the Inle Lake ‘tourist fee’ collection center, I had to explain I had no local currency and they agreed to accept $10. This pass allows you access to the lake region for a week and was never checked again. Since my driver wanted to be paid following the hour-long drive he gave me a brief tour of the small town on the way to an exchange shop.


Not the cleanest windows


Air KBZ upon arrival


Modern baggage carts


Heho Airport


Local taxis: pickup truck with wooden benches in the bed


Fellow motorists

There are two options when looking for a place to sleep in the region. I opted to stay in town (which is also cheaper) giving me flexibility in where I visited and ate. Others opt to live on a lake side (or on) property but you are trapped when it comes to meals and it is an expensive boat ride to explore the town. I was happy to select the Inle Star Hotel for about $30 a night. It was a nice property that included breakfast, although one common complaint is since it was the nearest hotel to the water, escaping the early morning cacophony of boat motors was unavoidable. For me that wasn’t an issue as I wanted to rise early each morning.


Arrival at the hotel


Comfortable air conditioned accomidations


Bathroom


They even offer a Japan quality gift!

I wasn’t able to check in quite yet, so I ditched my bags and headed out for my first taste of Myanmar hospitality. As I walked through town I discovered a number of monasteries, a lively market, and grabbed a bite for less than two dollars. As I kept walking I purchased a sim card with 1.5GB of data for about $6 and it proved to be valuable as the 3G data was generally more reliable and faster than any wifi network.


Tomato shipping port across the street from the hotel


The tomatoes that are grown on floating fields in the lake are sent to town where they are packed and distributed across the country.


Tomato warehouse


The first of many smiling faces

As I made my way through town I discovered just how friendly the locals were as not a single person refused my request to take their photo.


A warm welcome


Myanmar (Burma)


The first of a week of Pagodas…


And monks…


And smiles…


And certainly don’t want to forget the betel nut spit that paints the ground of Myanmar


Lunch time!


Chicken and fried noodles for 2000 MMK


Walking the market


The produce department


Selling thanaka wood for the traditional cosmetic of Myanmar


The results of thanaka, used by a majority of Burmese


Burmese yield sign


The main street


Roller skating in a longyi


Skater bois


One of the famous Puppet Shows


An array of characters


Not a puppet, but a baby!


Filling up the tank


Relaxing in the van

I eventually made my way back to my hotel to check in and enjoy a few minutes of AC. Refreshed I decided to spend the afternoon on a bike ($1 rental) exploring around the lake. I took a route many suggested online going down the west side of Inle Lake (passing hot springs and a few hilltop viewpoints) before hiring a boat to cross the lake to Mine Thauk. Mine Thauk is one of the larger villages on the lake with a variety of tourist accommodations.


Headed out to the hilly countryside


Common vehicle along the roads, also no muffler!


Local house and transportation


Working the fields


TVs seem uncommon, but everyone hovers around a mobile device to watch their favorite videos


Local kids


Lakeside village before crossing


All aboard…


The mighty teak wood boat


Much like the trucks, these boats are anything but quiet


Approaching the other side

Once across I continued the drive back toward Nyaungshwe, but not before a challenging ride up the hill to Red Mountain Estate. The weather was quickly changing and it looked like an afternoon storm may swoop in, so I had a wine flight for 3000 MMK and pulled back into town as it began to drizzle a bit. I tucked my bike under the awning and imbibed in my first of a few Myanmar beers for the evening. While I ate and drank, the place filled up with locals watching dubs of Hollywood favorites on the one TV over a few beers. Service was pretty poor and eventually I discovered it was easiest just to help myself to the fridge and signal to them each time to mark my bill.


Pulling in to Mine Thauk


Main street


Floating mansion


Working the floating fields


Regular afternoon rain


The pot of gold at the end of the rainbow


Vineyard


Red Mountain Estate


Hilltop view of the lake


Wine tasting


Bike and boat route: 19 Miles


Back in town, parked undercover for the rain


The crowds begin to gather for tonight’s Hollywood flicks


I began to lose count somewhere after this one


Or maybe it was this one…


Vermicelli fried rice with chicken; total bill 5500 MMK

Exhausted after an extended day of travel and adventure I rode my bike the last mile home and called it a night. For the record according to the State Department I took a great risk financially with that ride home: “Under the Burmese Motor Vehicle Act of 1964, driving while intoxicated is punishable by either six months in jail, or a 500 kyat (equivalent to USD 50 cents) fine, or both.”
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Old Feb 7, 2017, 4:49 pm
  #102  
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Originally Posted by DanielW
QR J looks like a great way to get to Myanmar, rivlinm.

Looking forward to the marathon run in Pyongyang, and to your take on Bangladesh. Just got back from Dhaka and it was quite an experience!
It was comfortable, but maybe a bit too short

I really enjoyed Bangladesh after not expecting to. I was trying to get my TR done before your trip, but it wasn't in the cards.


Originally Posted by TravelDream
It took me an hour or two, but I just read through the entire report.
Wow! That's all I can say. It made we really want to visit Rwanda and Lebanon.

Looking forward to the rest of report.

BTW, are you going to write something about Nagorno Khabarov. Somewhere else I'd like to visit.
Glad you enjoyed. I will be writing about NK soon, but I wouldn't say it's really worthy of too many accolades.

Originally Posted by blueferrari
ah finally we're getting into Myanmar part
Yes finally! This was the destination I most looked forward to.
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Old Feb 9, 2017, 7:19 pm
  #103  
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Day 25: Inle Lake, Myanmar

My day abruptly began with the roar of countless long boats just outside my window. Wanting to maximize my time on the lake, but not wanting to leave the comforts of the AC, I begrudgingly made my way to the rooftop for a nice breakfast with plenty of options from a checklist style menu.


Boats ready for a fresh load of tourists


Daily hotel eggs as I would soon discover


Pancake


Fried rice

After snapping a few photos of the boats I made my way outside where a woman who I had loosely agreed to hire a boat from was waiting. We agreed for 35,000 MMK her nephew and his friend would take me out for the entire day with plenty of stops along the way. Before heading out I picked up two liters of water for 300 MMK. I was offered cold ones for 400 MMK.


The view south from the bridge toward the lake

The first stretch out to the lake is a narrow (presumably man made) canal with towns (both floating and land standing) dotted along the way. In addition to lots of locals going about their daily routine, there was lots of heavy-duty excavation equipment clearing a path and building up land along the edges.


Boat driver


Business traffic


Nearing the open waters


Excavating


Beaver 1

Our first “sight” was the traditional Inle Lake fisherman who upon noticing a tourist poses as a fisherman and then begs for money. He was about as inauthentic as they come and didn’t seem very pleased with my 500 Kyat tip.


Headed out to the open water


Fake fisherman #1


Showcasing his fake catch

Next up we passed the floating gardens where the region’s tomatoes are grown. Further down lake came Phaw Khone (tourist town) where every tourist boat queued up at a Lotus and Silk weaving shop. The prices for the goods on sale were outrageously expensive and after a few minutes I was ready to move on.


Mine Thauk in the distance


Such a beautiful landscape


Real fishermen!


Leg control


Floating garden


With limited land for those living on the lake the rely on bamboo holding their crops above the water


Bailing water


Entering Phaw Khone


Harvesting the lotus


Lotus flower


Weaving some silk and lotus


Still all manual operation


Lots of repetitive actions


Upwards of $40 for some shalls

Well beyond the lake, and only reachable via river, lies Thaung Thut and its serene whitewashed (and golden) stupas. Once we docked I realized I pretty much had the site to myself besides a few locals and two monks maintaining the grounds with their generator killing the atmosphere! It was a bit of a walk up the hill but I enjoyed my time and it gave me a chance to walk on land after the morning on the boat.


Getting out of tourist town


Smoke break


Neighborhood on the lake


Welcoming the only tourist to Thaung Thut


Smoking is an everyday part of life I discovered


Climbing up the hill to Thaung Thut


Between every swing she would check her phone ☺


Thaung Thut


First of many Buddhas


The only other visitor


The monks were understandably power washing


Playing in the dirt


Funny faces

Mid day and having been baking in the sun all morning, it was time for lunch. Not that I had a suggestion, but I was taken to a bit of a touristy floating restaurant where all the other tour “boat” busses had parked. It was much more expensive than any meal I would have all week but I splurged for a 3000 Kyat beer and a plate of fried crispy egg noodle and fish for 4500 Kyat. Sitting and watching ‘city’ life happen was the main draw of this lunch spot located in the center of Nampan floating village. To the locals, being on the water was no different than life in the city. They had shops, streets, street lights, signs, roadblocks, construction crews and even curbs.


Soviet squat


Back on the grid


Lunch time


An expensive beer


And a filling lunch

Stuffed, I called for my boat and took off for some major attractions on the main Inle Lake circuit. First off would be Alodaw Pauk Pagoda. Since I hadn’t seen many pagodas yet, it was fun to watch, but had this been at the end of my stay, it would have been rather unmemorable of a visit.


Approaching Alodaw Pauk Pagoda


Alodaw Pauk


This is when the scorching ground began to get to my bare feet


Where the locals find the budget meals


Should have eaten here, although my stomach may have disagreed


Worshipers


A simple Buddha compared to what I would see in the coming days

Back on the boat we took off for the largest of the Temples (some claim it is the 4th most popular in Myanmar) and explored the grounds of Hpaung Daw U Pagoda. Its noteworthiness comes from its gilded Buddha figurines. Observed on CCTV, worshipers for a small donation purchased gold leaf and apply them to the now unrecognizable relics.


Hpaung Daw U


Only men are allowed to enter the center


The five Buddhas


What they looked like long ago


Applying the gold leaf

On our way out of Hpaung Daw U Pagoda we passed the large Karaweik Boat in its hanger. The boat is most notably used during the festival of Hpaung Daw U (around October). While I wasn’t there for the festival, it seems like quite a gathering of people from all around the country.


Karaweik Boat awaiting October

With one last major attraction remaining we dipped and darted our way though the busy ‘streets’ to Nga Hpe Kyuang, or the Jumping Cat Monastery. A bit of an unkempt facility, it is managed by just four monks who between prayers entertain tourists by training cats to jump through rings. During my visit the monks were occupied with other tasks and the cats seemed rather docile. I had heard (unsure if true) that the cats no longer preform this trick, while their legacy continues to attract and disappoint an audience.


Bored


How the other tourists do it


Nga Hpe Kyuang; not the most beautiful


But still a grand Buddha


No hoop jumping today


They teach them to ‘grab em by the tail’

Wanting to experience a legendary Inle Lake sunset we set off for the middle of the lake to take in the scenery. Two problems. It was still three hours till sunset, and the entire sky was shroud in clouds. Having seen how quickly yesterday’s weather moved in, I was hopeful the sun would poke out, but it wasn’t to be and after relaxing and talking with my two guides for an hour or so I agreed to head back.


Another real fisherman


Waking up the fish


The final drive home


One last fake


But at least he likes Green Day


No sunset today


Heading home

Back in Nyaungshwe around 18:00 the clouds decided to part a bit and made for some nice sun views over the fields. Eventually I decided upon a street-side dinner at Green Bar where I enjoyed tofu curry and a few different beers under a power blackout.


Back on land!


Of course the sun pokes out now


A new beer


Tofu curry for a touristy price of 2500


But 800 Kyat drafts (~$.75)

With another long day in the books, I called it a night around 21:00 and didn’t bother setting an alarm for the next morning knowing the boats would play the role of the rooster.
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Old Feb 17, 2017, 7:36 pm
  #104  
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Day 26: Mandalay, Myanmar [HEH>NYU>MDL]

Again, I woke up to the roar of boats that would make the largest Sturgis contingent feel inadequate. Breakfast on the rooftop consisted of eggs and a Shan salad (Shan being the name of the easternmost state in Myanmar). For 15K MMK (less than before) I had arranged a ride with my driver to get me back to Heho for my flight to Mandalay via Bagan (Nyaung-U: NYU).


Rolled up pancake


Shan salad and eggs


Leaving the Inle Lake tourist zone

At the airport I quickly checked in and there was some form of a domestic immigration that stamped my boarding pass after a few quick checks. As I waited for the flight in the barebones terminal I followed Game 7 of the NBA Finals. It seemed like a pretty good time to tune in for my first basketball game of the season. Thankfully boarding was quickly called and boarding was just as snappy.


Check in hall


Getting my boarding sticker


Boarding pass and baggage claim tag


Gate area


Now boarding


K7 flight 230
Nyaungshwe, Myanmar (HEH) to Nyaung-U, Myanmar (NYU)
Depart: 09:54, Arrive: 10:26, Time: 0:32
ATR 72-500, Seat 12A


Seating for this flight was Southwest style and with a load of less than 1/3 we where wheels up in a jiffy. Even though our airtime was just 32 minuets we were served a few carbs and a selection of beverages.


Unique livery


Immaculate interior


Breakfast two

In Nyaung-U we spent less than 10 minutes on the ground before carrying on to Mandalay.


K7 flight 231
Nyaung-U, Myanmar (NYU) to Mandalay, Myanmar (MDL)
Depart: 10:39, Arrive: 11:01, Time: 0:22
ATR 72-500, Seat 12A


Even shorter at just 22 minutes, there was no meal, but just a candy basket was offered. The Mandalay airport was a rather nice building with all the facilities you would expect for an international airport in this region. Baggage tags were matched before being released to the taxi mafia.


Candy basket


Awfully modern

The older airport used to be near the city, but almost an hour’s drive required a 12K MMK fare to the city. The roads were way beyond what I expected and the ride was comfortable. At my hotel I was warmly welcomed and offered a cool towel and drink while waiting for them to arrange my check in. The Hotel Yadanarbon was a lovely mid level hotel with cold AC, great service and was located right in the heart of the city, all for about $30 a night. I dropped off my bags and headed right back out to the humidity to refuel.


Welcome!


Beautiful highway


Arriving in town


Hotel Yadanarbon


Hotel welcome


Today’s checkin list…and where everyone booked


Another cold room


Bathroom

I always enjoy a good struggle when it comes to ordering food (or so I tell myself) so I stopped at local’s watering hole where most patrons were enjoying a midday beer and smoke, and not a word of English was spoken. I managed to easily indicate I wanted a beer by pointing, but the food was a bit more of a struggle until I finally conveyed chicken of some sort would do the trick. 3500 MMK and a few beers later I bid farewell to my curious new friends and wandered toward the Golden Palace.


I would soon grow accustomed to roadside food stalls as the norm


The only English in the place!


Good results for charades


Youngster


Reminded me of George Orwell’s ‘Burmese Days’ and the elite’s access to daily ice


Bird vendor

I knew the moat encompassed palace was massive, but as I began to walk the midday sun really began to beat on me. I kept walking and one particular man took an interest in becoming my driver, but my pride kicked in and I pushed on. Tourists are only allowed to enter on the east side. I acquired the 10K MMK Mandalay pass which allows entry to all the sites in the city and hired an awful bike to pedal my way into the core of the island. Most of the grounds are active government offices but it was rather simple to find the only tourist site, Mya Nan San Kyaw Golden Palace.


Walking around the moat


Who needs a wall when you have this


Local relaxing moatside


The punk look is popular with the youth, even with their longyi


Napping in what little shade could be found


Mandalay Hill

Built in the 1850s by King Mindon it served as Royal Palace for the last Burmese Monarchy. Most structures were destroyed by Allied Forces during WWII and it wasn’t until the 1990’s that reconstructions were made. The watch tower provided a nice view overlooking all of the one story structures with multi tiered roofs.


Golden Palace


Main entrance


Spires in the sky


The King’s residence


The grounds


Selfie


Watchtower


View from above


Mandalay Hill in the background

Looking for some shade (not that it actually existed anywhere) I made my way out where another enterprising driver offered his services and I conceded after looking at the state of my bike and how much more ground I needed to cover. For 45K MMK he agreed to take me around the main sites around Mandalay Hill today and the three big sites outside of the city tomorrow. Happy, I returned the bike and stockpiled all of his AC on the way to the next spot.

First up was Atumashi Kyaung (Monastery) and Shwenandaw Kyaung but due to a gathering, they was closed to tourists. My driver offered to swing by first thing in the morning so I wouldn’t miss it, but in the meantime we moved along to the Khutodaw Pagoda. Known as the world’s largest book, 730 golden tablets incased in perfectly arranged white stupas surround the golden pagoda. The writing on the tablets tells the Tapitaka Pali Canon of Theravada Buddhism.


Atumashi Kyaung


Private event so closed to the public


Quick view of Shwenandaw Kyaung before being whisked away


Khutodaw Pagoda – The World’s largest book


Each of the 730 stuppas houses a page


Row after row…


With the pagoda in the middle


Umbrella


Inside the pagoda was a very blingy Buddha


Gold

Before beginning the assent up Mandalay Hill I paid Sandamuni Pagoda a visit. Another neatly arranged collection of white stupas with the central golden stupa in the middle made for a nice walk around the grounds, besides the scalding ground when barefoot. It was originally built as a memorial for some royalty assassinated in 1866.


Sandamuni Pagoda


I wonder how much white paint they go through


Nice neat rows


Praying


Old school Buddha with no neon lights


View from the outside

Lastly, at the base of the hill, we quickly poked in to view Kyauk Taw Gyi Phaya. Most every Buddha I saw has a distinctive specialty and this one was no different, being carved from one large block of pale green marble.



Kyauk Taw Gyi Phaya


Another garish interior


Worshipers

Both Sandamuni and Khutodaw were most impressive when viewed from above, so from the base of the hill at the giant lion staircase we took the road up and stopped at certain viewpoints to overlook Mandalay below.


For those brave enough to hike to the top


The road up


Khutodaw Pagoda


Sandamuni Pagoda


The moat surrounding the Golden Palace


Mandalay countryside

The main attraction of the hill is to view sunset and we still had some time to kill so my driver suggested we walk around and observe the monks and locals going about their business in Su Taung Pyae Pagoda. My feet had been really sore while in Beirut and walking barefoot on the hard (and dirty!) floors wasn’t helping and my feet began to throb, but I pushed on until we found a place to settle in for sunset. Only one issue, those pesky clouds again. The people watching was great however, and locals and foreigners interacted while exchanging photos and stories as the evening drew to a close.


Walking the grounds


Atop Mandalay Hill


Tall Buddha


With a bit of color


Meat on a stick


Su Taung Pyae Pagoda


Lion gateway below


About to get busy for ‘sunset’


Half locals, half tourists


Many Burmese wanted to practice their English


Some just wanted to take photos


The Nuns were a popular attraction


Sun splotched monk


Buddhist water drinking


Betel stained teeth


The closest we would get to a sunset

We drove back to my hotel in darkness as motorbikes zoomed by in both directions with no lights. I rested my feet at the hotel and soaked in as much cool air as I could before going back out to find another local dinner. The staff spoke a few basic words of English and I was able to order chicken curry. It consisted of a scant portion of chicken served with an array of sides and rice. At first a server brought by a used bottle of water and some tired looking veggies but his boss smacked him on the head and said something before he returned with an unopened bottle and freshly washed veggies. My stomach thanks you! Satisfied I made my way back to the hotel and slept the night away.


Local dinner


2200 MMK
rivlinm is offline  
Old Feb 19, 2017, 6:07 am
  #105  
 
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: JNB
Programs: Flying Blue, Miles and Smiles, Hhonors, ICHotels
Posts: 1,307
Loving this report. Thank you!!

Enjoyed the billboard in Beirut advertising Poulet D'ore. That chicken looks so suggestive.
roadwarrier is offline  


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