Achievement Unlocked: AFRICA! Visiting Mali, Mauritania, and Senegal
Jun 8, 2016, 1:19 pm
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Achievement Unlocked: AFRICA! Visiting Mali, Mauritania, and Senegal
With September rapidly approaching and my goal being to finish visiting all 197 countries by September 1 the early part of 2016 has been packed with making sure I'm able to line everything up and be done on time.
New Years saw five new countries in Africa ticked off: The Gambia, Guinea-Bissau, Liberia, Sierra Leone, and Guinea with DanielW and HauteBoy leaving just six countries to go, two of which were in Africa.
After visiting Belize in February and Tuvalu in May I arranged with FlyIgglesFly to make a week long dash around West Africa to visit my last two African countries: Mali and Mauritania.
The problem was that both countries have a bit of a security issue at the moment between Boko Haram and Al Qaida in the Islamic Maghreb. In Mali this means the best tourist sights are largely inaccessible in Timboctu and in Mauritania the North of the country is largely considered to be a no-go zone.
Another problem it's near impossible to obtain a visa for Mauritania outside Africa. The embassy in Washington was absolutely zero help, and flatly refused to entertain a request for a tourist visa. Also, Mauritania Airlines isn't bookable anywhere online or in person...outside of West Africa. We decided to solve this by going overland from Dakar, Senegal to Nouakchott, Mauritania.
Final route for the trip looked like this:
Of course, that wasn't the plan. On the way to Africa American Airlines had a very different idea for how to get there. But I'll tell that part of the story as we go along. It was bad to the point I almost left FlyIgglesFly to fend for himself in West Africa which I'm sure would have made for a much more entertaining TR than you'll likely get from me! In the end, it all worked out rather well and we had an amazing time. Rough parts for the report will be:
1. DC to Bamako, Mali...but not as intended!
2. Overnight in Bamako and flight to Dakar with Ethiopian
3. Dakar, Senegal
4. Dakar to St Louis, Senegal overland and overnight in St Louis
5. St Louis, Senegal to Nouakchott, Mauritania overland
6. Two nights in Nouakchott, Mauritania
7. Nouakchott to Istanbul with Turkish Airlines, overnight in Istanbul
8. Istanbul to DC...again not as intended, but a major improvement: Lufthansa First!
Previous trip reports:
I. London to Iran and Afghanistan in a mix of C, F, and LCCs
II. Above the Arctic Circle with UA/CO/LH and SK in whY, C, and F
III. Around the World in 40 Days for 40 Years
IV. 8 Places People Who Are Right in the Head Do Not Spend New Years
V. 12 Countries, 10 Airlines, 4 Islands, 27,080 miles, 11 Days
VI. 6 Countries in 6 Days - Caribbean Island Hopping and first AA Experience
VII. Guyana, Suriname, and French Guyana with an unexpected sidetrip to Caracas!
VIII. To Haïti - for vacation and a milage run!
IX. Around Senegal and West Africa
X. 4th Annual New Years in Dangerous Places - Libya Edition
XI. Kosovo and FYR Macedonia - Milage Run in United Business + TK/LH
XII. Washington to Peru and Machu Picchu on COPA and TACA
XIII. To Johannesburg...for 36 hours!
XIV. Here a Stan, there a Stan, everwhere a Stan Stan....
XV. Air Burkina, Air Cote d'Ivoire and 7 countries in West Africa
XVI. Turkey for Thanksgiving....with a side of Tajikistan, Serbia, Montenegro, and Moscow
XVII. Into the Heart of Darkness... Congo, Angola, Gabon, OH MY!
XVIII. HI! Four Islands, Lots of Planes, Beaches, and Convertibles
XIX. Plenty of Salt, Not Enough Oxygen...a Trip to Boliva, Colombia, and Ecuador
XX. Learning to Relax - Long Weekend in St Christopher and Nevis
XXI. You're spending New Years WHERE? IRAQ? (2009-2010)
XXII. Pineapples, croissants, and neon OH MY! A trip to Hawaii, Paris, Andorra, and Vegas
XXIII. South Pacific, Israel, Lebanon - 6 weeks - 71,500 miles - 24 countries
XXIV. Sundae bloody Sundaes...a 2014 United Year in Review
XXV. Lakes, Lemurs, and Lithuania: Horton Hears a Houthi!
XXVI. First Americans tour to North Korea 2005 - Arirang Mass Games
XXVII. Doing the Needful - Lufthansa Business US to Chennai
XXVII. C-ing things: Canada, Curry, Cameroon, CAR, Chad, Camels, Chengis Khan and China!
XXVIII. Learning my ABCs: Algeria, Bahama, Cuba and the Cubana IL-96
XXIX. Exploring ZMapp of West Africa...or how I got detained by the CDC
XXX. Transatlantic to Bangkok with United, Austrian, Air Canada, and Thai
XXXI. Being Lazy in Belize
XXXII. Quick Trip to Cape Town with United, SWISS, South African, and Lufthansa
XXXII. FUNny thing happened going to and from Tuvalu...Cathay F, Etihad Apts, Fiji Biz
The trip is over now, so this report will unfold rapidly...goal is to get one chapter a day done...starting today! Now, just two countries remain!
New Years saw five new countries in Africa ticked off: The Gambia, Guinea-Bissau, Liberia, Sierra Leone, and Guinea with DanielW and HauteBoy leaving just six countries to go, two of which were in Africa.
After visiting Belize in February and Tuvalu in May I arranged with FlyIgglesFly to make a week long dash around West Africa to visit my last two African countries: Mali and Mauritania.
The problem was that both countries have a bit of a security issue at the moment between Boko Haram and Al Qaida in the Islamic Maghreb. In Mali this means the best tourist sights are largely inaccessible in Timboctu and in Mauritania the North of the country is largely considered to be a no-go zone.
Another problem it's near impossible to obtain a visa for Mauritania outside Africa. The embassy in Washington was absolutely zero help, and flatly refused to entertain a request for a tourist visa. Also, Mauritania Airlines isn't bookable anywhere online or in person...outside of West Africa. We decided to solve this by going overland from Dakar, Senegal to Nouakchott, Mauritania.
Final route for the trip looked like this:
Of course, that wasn't the plan. On the way to Africa American Airlines had a very different idea for how to get there. But I'll tell that part of the story as we go along. It was bad to the point I almost left FlyIgglesFly to fend for himself in West Africa which I'm sure would have made for a much more entertaining TR than you'll likely get from me! In the end, it all worked out rather well and we had an amazing time. Rough parts for the report will be:
1. DC to Bamako, Mali...but not as intended!
2. Overnight in Bamako and flight to Dakar with Ethiopian
3. Dakar, Senegal
4. Dakar to St Louis, Senegal overland and overnight in St Louis
5. St Louis, Senegal to Nouakchott, Mauritania overland
6. Two nights in Nouakchott, Mauritania
7. Nouakchott to Istanbul with Turkish Airlines, overnight in Istanbul
8. Istanbul to DC...again not as intended, but a major improvement: Lufthansa First!
Previous trip reports:
I. London to Iran and Afghanistan in a mix of C, F, and LCCs
II. Above the Arctic Circle with UA/CO/LH and SK in whY, C, and F
III. Around the World in 40 Days for 40 Years
IV. 8 Places People Who Are Right in the Head Do Not Spend New Years
V. 12 Countries, 10 Airlines, 4 Islands, 27,080 miles, 11 Days
VI. 6 Countries in 6 Days - Caribbean Island Hopping and first AA Experience
VII. Guyana, Suriname, and French Guyana with an unexpected sidetrip to Caracas!
VIII. To Haïti - for vacation and a milage run!
IX. Around Senegal and West Africa
X. 4th Annual New Years in Dangerous Places - Libya Edition
XI. Kosovo and FYR Macedonia - Milage Run in United Business + TK/LH
XII. Washington to Peru and Machu Picchu on COPA and TACA
XIII. To Johannesburg...for 36 hours!
XIV. Here a Stan, there a Stan, everwhere a Stan Stan....
XV. Air Burkina, Air Cote d'Ivoire and 7 countries in West Africa
XVI. Turkey for Thanksgiving....with a side of Tajikistan, Serbia, Montenegro, and Moscow
XVII. Into the Heart of Darkness... Congo, Angola, Gabon, OH MY!
XVIII. HI! Four Islands, Lots of Planes, Beaches, and Convertibles
XIX. Plenty of Salt, Not Enough Oxygen...a Trip to Boliva, Colombia, and Ecuador
XX. Learning to Relax - Long Weekend in St Christopher and Nevis
XXI. You're spending New Years WHERE? IRAQ? (2009-2010)
XXII. Pineapples, croissants, and neon OH MY! A trip to Hawaii, Paris, Andorra, and Vegas
XXIII. South Pacific, Israel, Lebanon - 6 weeks - 71,500 miles - 24 countries
XXIV. Sundae bloody Sundaes...a 2014 United Year in Review
XXV. Lakes, Lemurs, and Lithuania: Horton Hears a Houthi!
XXVI. First Americans tour to North Korea 2005 - Arirang Mass Games
XXVII. Doing the Needful - Lufthansa Business US to Chennai
XXVII. C-ing things: Canada, Curry, Cameroon, CAR, Chad, Camels, Chengis Khan and China!
XXVIII. Learning my ABCs: Algeria, Bahama, Cuba and the Cubana IL-96
XXIX. Exploring ZMapp of West Africa...or how I got detained by the CDC
XXX. Transatlantic to Bangkok with United, Austrian, Air Canada, and Thai
XXXI. Being Lazy in Belize
XXXII. Quick Trip to Cape Town with United, SWISS, South African, and Lufthansa
XXXII. FUNny thing happened going to and from Tuvalu...Cathay F, Etihad Apts, Fiji Biz
The trip is over now, so this report will unfold rapidly...goal is to get one chapter a day done...starting today! Now, just two countries remain!
Last edited by ironmanjt; Jun 22, 2016 at 8:47 pm
Jun 8, 2016, 9:44 pm
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Jun 8, 2016, 9:45 pm
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Jun 8, 2016, 10:57 pm
#8
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Location: Austin, TX -- AA Life Platinum; QF Life Silver; UA Silver
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Jun 9, 2016, 10:57 pm
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Jun 9, 2016, 11:19 pm
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Jun 9, 2016, 11:21 pm
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Jun 10, 2016, 12:28 pm
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1. DC to Bamako, Mali...but not as intended!
I should be up front before talking about this trip. With so many easier ways to get to Mali, why in the world was I detouring via LaGuardia, Chicago, London, Accra, and Abidjan? Well, it all started with a fare Ian found last year from Accra-Chicago roundtrip in business class for barely $800. I was happy to use it one way and throw away the second half, but hey, I might still have countries in West Africa left by Memorial Day, so let's book the return to Accra then and see if it's useful.
We found great one-way fares from Accra to Bamako via Abidjan with Air Cote d'Ivoire, so that settled it. I had initially booked nonstop from DCA to Chicago with American as well but a change in times meant I could either have a barely one hour connection in Chicago, or over five hours. I figured if I was going to play the waiting around in airports game, I would book the connection for some extra miles. I gave myself three hours to connect in LaGuardia which should be plenty...even if things went pear shaped.
The night before, I did a same-day change on American's website so I could get an hour of sleep. I would leave on the 1pm shuttle instead of the noon, take a slightly later LaGuardia to Chicago, and still have well over two hours for each connection. Seemed great.
Got to DCA which was shockingly empty, and had the most delightful TSA agent I've ever had. She was joking with kids and putting stickers on her, so I jokingly asked her why I didn't get one. She was more than happy to please, and I enjoyed my Chateau le Hector in the Admirals Club and pondered a career change....
Then, It hit the fan. First a 30 minute delay on the shuttle. Then an hour, then 60 minutes. All the nonstops to O'Hare were completely sold out by this point, leaving me little alternative. Once the plane finally left LaGuardia they were estimating 1:11 to make the connection at LaGuardia which should be fine if nothing further went wrong. Which, of course it did. By the time we boarded and the door was closed, the connection was down to 42 minutes. Still doable, but, with the shuttle flights arriving in a different terminal from other American flights it would be extremely close.
American flight 2143
Washington, National (DCA) to New York, LaGuardia (LGA)
Depart 13:00, Arrive 14:24, Flight Time: 1:24
Embraer ERJ-190, Registration N952UW, Manufactured 2007, Seat 1D
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 86,496
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,276,021
Flight was a completely uneventful 40 minutes or so, and we pulled into the gate just a bit further behind schedule with 35 minutes to make my connection. I thought I was going to have to reclear security with the terminal change, but American is now operating a shuttle between the two terminals. Unfortunately, the shuttle was "experiencing radiator problems" and took nearly 20 minutes to show up. By the time I got to the gate, the door had closed five minutes early...and although the plane was still sitting at the gate I was offloaded. The ever so friendly agent told me to "go to customer service and they'll rebook you." Ugh. Instead, I called the Exec Platinum line, and got a super helpful agent who was able to put me on the next flight about two hours later.
Of course, this meant I was going to miss my BA flight to London. I had heard about the OneWorld protection even if you are on different tickets, and the super wonderful agent in the Admirals Club was more than happy to help. Given my Chicago-London-Accra ticket was BA flights but on Iberia ticket stock, she took a bit of time to figure it out, but fortunately the inbound London-Chicago a few months prior had been on American so they still held control of the ticket. Eventually, she had no trouble confirming me on the American nonstop to London at 22:20, however, despite there being eight seats open in first she couldn't process an upgrade to first with a systemwide because it was under gate control. Oh well, with eight seats it should be a piece of cake...right?
New flight left right on time, leaving me nearly an hour and 40 minutes to connect at O'Hare...maybe...
American flight 359
New York, LaGuardia (LGA) to Chicago, O'Hare (ORD)
Depart 18:55, Arrive 20:43, Flight Time: 2:48
Boeing 737-800, Registration N948NN, Manufactured 2014, Seat 6B
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 87,229
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,276,754
Mixed nuts and drinks were served right after takeoff...I really like how AA's mixed nuts have a few pecans and pistachios thrown in:
I went for the chicken main (forget what the other option was - some sort of pasta I think) which was pretty good. I went for the pretzel roll instead of the bland "risotto" for my carbs, and with the chocolate chip cookie I was preparing for my overnight carb coma well:
Then, we landed. See, it's 20:45...tons of time to make my 22:20 flight...in theory...
See those storms? Apparently we were the last flight in before O'Hare went on a total ground stop. Yet, we couldn't get a gate, because there was another aircraft at our gate and nothing was moving due to the weather. Nearly an 30 minutes later at 9:15 we were still sitting on the ramp. The pilot was fantastic, updating us every five minutes on what was going on with our gate. However, his announcements got progressively more and more bizarre as he got frustrated. Eventually, around 21:40 he told us "in my 25+ years with this airline I've never seen such a shameful performance by this airport. The ground control is fighting with the tower now, and as a result nothing is moving."
Finally, around 10:10pm after nearly 90 minutes on the ground (and tweets to American asking when the passenger bill of rights kicked in) we finally arrived at a gate. Flight attendants and the pilot were great the whole time, and it showed - despite such a long delay there were no angry passengers, and everyone was calm. It's amazing what communication can do.
I had 10 minutes to make my flight which still showed on time, and I sprinted across the terminal. On the way, I popped into the Admirals Club and asked if they could call the gate. They did so, and found out boarding had just gotten underway. Yay, I would make the flight but BOO, my now 80 minute connection at Heathrow was going to be messy.
Got to the gate, and asked the agent at the counter if she could process the upgrade to first please. "Oh I'm sorry, first is completely full." I asked here how suddenly in the last 15 minutes eight people had been added to the upgrade list and cleared. "That's confidential - please take your assigned seat." I smelled shenanigans and demanded politely to speak to a supervisor. I had to wait a couple of minutes to get a supervisor, and explained the whole situation. She apologized at how the agent had handled it, and with a few keystrokes punched out a new first boarding pass for me. She then went the extra mile and escorted me onto the plane...so she could boot the nonrev already sitting in that seat back to economy. Awkward!
American flight 98
Chicago, O'Hare (ORD) to London, Heathrow (LHR)
Depart 22:20, Arrive 12:05, Flight Time: 7:45
Boeing 777-200, Registration N775NN, Manufactured 1999, Seat 4J
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 91,182
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,280,707
Boarding took forever, and eventually my connection in London was showing only 20 minutes to make it. I was praying for tailwinds. Then, it got to 10 minutes, and I rang my call button to tell the FA I was getting off and asking to be rebooked since I would misconnect and would rather be stuck overnight in Chicago than London. "Oh, you can't...we're closing the door now. Plus, I'm sure you're wrong about your connection time. 'They' never would have given you an 80 minute connection to start with."
Then, she went back to the galley, right behind my seat, and her colleague asked her "what that was all about." "Oh, he's full of s--t. He thinks he knows more about flight times than we do."
I was floored.
The only upside to this whole thing...service was polite, friendly, and warm for the duration of the flight. Thank God I somehow managed to not let it linger and get threatened with arrest by a flight attendant who was clearly having a bad day. Somewhere during the whole boarding, at least I got a pre-departure champagne in a non-plastic glass. Are you listening United???
Psst, American, the 1980s called...they want their inflight entertainment system back:
Shortly after takeoff more mixed nuts, and a very generous pour of red wine:
Salmon starter, which was still covered in little ice chips. Apparently it hadn't been completely thawed out....PASS.
It's hard to make a memorable salad in flight, but this one was really good! Creamy dressing, spinach, blue cheese, and strawberries. I have to say, both this salad and the one I had in transcon first from Miami to LA were really good. Score one for AA in the salad department!
I couldn't resist trying the turkey, since I'm pretty sure I've never seen that on a plane before. It was a breaded cutlet with an extremely sweet sour cherry sauce on it. It was edible, but a bit too weird for my tastes. Plus, notice the empty wine glass...
Apparently, they had "forgotten" to load the cheese course, so I had a sundae with butterscotch. It was a nice change from the chocolate, caramel, and strawberry gloop choices you get on United:
The menus:
The agents were kind enough to let me sleep until barely 10 minutes before touchdown, so I got a solid 5+ hours and was ready for the sprint to the gate. According to the app we had made up more time en route, and I now had 35 minutes to make my connection.
The first sign of trouble was when I got off the plane and there were several agents there asking about connections. I told them Ghana, and the lady said "ohhhhhhhh.....YOU need to talk to him" and handed me over to her colleague. Apparently I had "already missed my flight" (how? I still have 35 minutes) and that had rebooked me to Ghana...on Kenya Airways via Nairobi...in economy arriving nearly 16 hours late. Um, no.
Sensing this agent had no power at all, I thanked him and headed for the transfer desk. The agents at the transfer desk were equally unhelpful, but finally agreed to ask BA if they would please put me back on the flight since the flight hadn't even started boarding yet! Nope, completely full now according to BA, so no way to get on it. I kept pressing the issue, and no dice, BA insisted there was no way to put me back on the flight regardless if it hadn't even started boarding. AA had offloaded me and reticketed me proactively, so they had to solve it. I would have had no trouble at all making the flight...and was texting Ian the whole time who was in the gate area. Why couldn't AA let me take the risk of the 15 minute connection, and rebook me IF I miss it. Now, I was screwed.
The agents at the transfer desk refused to offer me anything beyond the Kenya Airlines option, even when I explained I had a connection the next day to Bamako, and finally, for the second time in 12 hours, I had to speak to a supervisor. "Why don't you clear security and go to the Admirals Club? You'll find a supervisor there."
I did as suggested, security took maybe five minutes, and I explained the situation to the lady at the front desk of the Admirals Club. She was super understanding, and suggested I take a seat and she would get someone from Premium Services to come find me. The gentleman arrived about 10 minutes later, and I walked him through the whole chain of tickets and events. He asked what he could do to get a satisfactory outcome. He sat with me patiently as I got out ExpertFlyer and looked for options.
The only way to get to Mali on time now would be to fly straight there. There was no way to get to Accra in time to make my connection. I found just two seats left on Air France the next day direct from Paris to Bamako. I told him the only options would be to (1) send me straight to Bamako the next day on Air France or (2) return me home and I'll try this trip again at another stage.
He assured me he would be happy to send me back to the US - either JFK or ORD and on to DCA...my choice...in first class either same day or the next day. That would be no problem at all. He said there was a chance he could get one of those last two seats on Air France, so why don't I enjoy something to eat and drink while he worked on it. I finally got my cheese!
Miracle of miracles, he came back about 30 minutes later...Air France was confirmed and ticketed! He offered a hotel and meal vouchers at Heathrow, but instead I opted to get a Heathrow Express ticket and go into the city and see friends. Not much to tell about here - it was early evening by the time I got downtown. Had a nice dinner with a friend and then met others for drinks...and ended up staying out much later than I should.
So, let's pick this up where it gets interesting again. The flights.
Air France flight 1581
London, Heathrow (LHR) to Paris, Charles de Gaulle (CDG)
Depart 12:10, Arrive 14:30, Flight Time: 1:20
Airbus A320, Registration F-GKXS, Manufactured 2009, Seat 5D
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 91,398
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,280,923
The irony of this flight is it was across the hall from the gate where I had flown London to Abu Dhabi in Etihad Apartments exactly two weeks prior. I never transit T4 at Heathrow, and here I was at two gates right next to each other in two weeks. Funny how it happens!
This flight was a hot mess. There was clearly a large family who had been in London on a shopping trip as a man, what looked to be his teen son - complete with Gucci embroidered velvet jacket - and 11 women boarded. The 11 women, two adults and nine teens/children were all sitting in business (which was completely full) and the two men were in economy. That's when I felt a tapping on my shoulder. It was the adult who it turns out was in the bulkhead seat right behind me in coach..."will you take my seat please?" and handed me a 100 euro note. Uhhh...it's a 40 minute flight, the seats are exactly the same...so, um, sure?
I moved one row back, and the flight attendant came up and asked me what was going on. I explained to him, and he laughed, and said "I'll bring you your meal and drinks anyways." Easiest 100 euros I've made! I had been on this same route with BA two weeks prior, and I have to say the two products were neck and neck. BA's meal was maybe slightly better, but who needs a meal on a 40 minute flight. Both were very generous with the champagne.
Despite ATC holds around Paris, I still had enough time to enjoy the lounge a bit before boarding my connecting flight to Mali:
What could be more french than wine and cheese with some Evian in the lounge?
Air France flight 386
Paris, Charles de Gaulle (CDG) to Bamako, Mali (BKO)
Depart 16:30, Arrive 20:20, Flight Time: 5:50
Airbus A340-300, Registration F-GLZK, Manufactured 1997, Seat 6E
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 93,982
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,283,507
I was excited to be flying Air France again. My first experience had been five months prior and I really had enjoyed it, so I looked forward to seeing if those two flights were the rule or the exception. PDB champagne. Real champagne. None of that US airline sparkling grape nonsense:
The menu looked super:
Amuse bouche...smoked salmon and cream with some crackers. Maybe the crackers weren't, en francais, "super classy" but it was nice to have a change from mixed nuts:
Mmmmm fois gras and smoked cod on panna cotta:
The cod with smoked salmon and parmesan crumble with chili pepper was out of this world. Maybe my favourite airline entree of all time...and I feel like I said the same thing a few months prior on Air France. Apparently, nobody can do gourmet cooking like Air France in business class. Plus, look at those cheeses!
...and not just one, but four mini desserts! YUM!
Overall, Air France hit another home run with me. So much so that I'm actively trying to find a way to try their first class product now. Their seats may be a bit behind the times, but the food and service on all three medium haul flights was outstanding!
Unfortunately, my first longhaul American experience was a shambles both on the ground and in flight. If not for the amazing staff at the Heathrow Admirals club I would have been left with an extremely bitter taste in my mouth. Now, to start fighting American for the 600 Euros in delay compensation I'm due and for credit on the missed Heathrow-Accra flight.
Next up...Mali!
We found great one-way fares from Accra to Bamako via Abidjan with Air Cote d'Ivoire, so that settled it. I had initially booked nonstop from DCA to Chicago with American as well but a change in times meant I could either have a barely one hour connection in Chicago, or over five hours. I figured if I was going to play the waiting around in airports game, I would book the connection for some extra miles. I gave myself three hours to connect in LaGuardia which should be plenty...even if things went pear shaped.
The night before, I did a same-day change on American's website so I could get an hour of sleep. I would leave on the 1pm shuttle instead of the noon, take a slightly later LaGuardia to Chicago, and still have well over two hours for each connection. Seemed great.
Got to DCA which was shockingly empty, and had the most delightful TSA agent I've ever had. She was joking with kids and putting stickers on her, so I jokingly asked her why I didn't get one. She was more than happy to please, and I enjoyed my Chateau le Hector in the Admirals Club and pondered a career change....
Then, It hit the fan. First a 30 minute delay on the shuttle. Then an hour, then 60 minutes. All the nonstops to O'Hare were completely sold out by this point, leaving me little alternative. Once the plane finally left LaGuardia they were estimating 1:11 to make the connection at LaGuardia which should be fine if nothing further went wrong. Which, of course it did. By the time we boarded and the door was closed, the connection was down to 42 minutes. Still doable, but, with the shuttle flights arriving in a different terminal from other American flights it would be extremely close.
American flight 2143
Washington, National (DCA) to New York, LaGuardia (LGA)
Depart 13:00, Arrive 14:24, Flight Time: 1:24
Embraer ERJ-190, Registration N952UW, Manufactured 2007, Seat 1D
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 86,496
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,276,021
Flight was a completely uneventful 40 minutes or so, and we pulled into the gate just a bit further behind schedule with 35 minutes to make my connection. I thought I was going to have to reclear security with the terminal change, but American is now operating a shuttle between the two terminals. Unfortunately, the shuttle was "experiencing radiator problems" and took nearly 20 minutes to show up. By the time I got to the gate, the door had closed five minutes early...and although the plane was still sitting at the gate I was offloaded. The ever so friendly agent told me to "go to customer service and they'll rebook you." Ugh. Instead, I called the Exec Platinum line, and got a super helpful agent who was able to put me on the next flight about two hours later.
Of course, this meant I was going to miss my BA flight to London. I had heard about the OneWorld protection even if you are on different tickets, and the super wonderful agent in the Admirals Club was more than happy to help. Given my Chicago-London-Accra ticket was BA flights but on Iberia ticket stock, she took a bit of time to figure it out, but fortunately the inbound London-Chicago a few months prior had been on American so they still held control of the ticket. Eventually, she had no trouble confirming me on the American nonstop to London at 22:20, however, despite there being eight seats open in first she couldn't process an upgrade to first with a systemwide because it was under gate control. Oh well, with eight seats it should be a piece of cake...right?
New flight left right on time, leaving me nearly an hour and 40 minutes to connect at O'Hare...maybe...
American flight 359
New York, LaGuardia (LGA) to Chicago, O'Hare (ORD)
Depart 18:55, Arrive 20:43, Flight Time: 2:48
Boeing 737-800, Registration N948NN, Manufactured 2014, Seat 6B
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 87,229
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,276,754
Mixed nuts and drinks were served right after takeoff...I really like how AA's mixed nuts have a few pecans and pistachios thrown in:
I went for the chicken main (forget what the other option was - some sort of pasta I think) which was pretty good. I went for the pretzel roll instead of the bland "risotto" for my carbs, and with the chocolate chip cookie I was preparing for my overnight carb coma well:
Then, we landed. See, it's 20:45...tons of time to make my 22:20 flight...in theory...
See those storms? Apparently we were the last flight in before O'Hare went on a total ground stop. Yet, we couldn't get a gate, because there was another aircraft at our gate and nothing was moving due to the weather. Nearly an 30 minutes later at 9:15 we were still sitting on the ramp. The pilot was fantastic, updating us every five minutes on what was going on with our gate. However, his announcements got progressively more and more bizarre as he got frustrated. Eventually, around 21:40 he told us "in my 25+ years with this airline I've never seen such a shameful performance by this airport. The ground control is fighting with the tower now, and as a result nothing is moving."
Finally, around 10:10pm after nearly 90 minutes on the ground (and tweets to American asking when the passenger bill of rights kicked in) we finally arrived at a gate. Flight attendants and the pilot were great the whole time, and it showed - despite such a long delay there were no angry passengers, and everyone was calm. It's amazing what communication can do.
I had 10 minutes to make my flight which still showed on time, and I sprinted across the terminal. On the way, I popped into the Admirals Club and asked if they could call the gate. They did so, and found out boarding had just gotten underway. Yay, I would make the flight but BOO, my now 80 minute connection at Heathrow was going to be messy.
Got to the gate, and asked the agent at the counter if she could process the upgrade to first please. "Oh I'm sorry, first is completely full." I asked here how suddenly in the last 15 minutes eight people had been added to the upgrade list and cleared. "That's confidential - please take your assigned seat." I smelled shenanigans and demanded politely to speak to a supervisor. I had to wait a couple of minutes to get a supervisor, and explained the whole situation. She apologized at how the agent had handled it, and with a few keystrokes punched out a new first boarding pass for me. She then went the extra mile and escorted me onto the plane...so she could boot the nonrev already sitting in that seat back to economy. Awkward!
American flight 98
Chicago, O'Hare (ORD) to London, Heathrow (LHR)
Depart 22:20, Arrive 12:05, Flight Time: 7:45
Boeing 777-200, Registration N775NN, Manufactured 1999, Seat 4J
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 91,182
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,280,707
Boarding took forever, and eventually my connection in London was showing only 20 minutes to make it. I was praying for tailwinds. Then, it got to 10 minutes, and I rang my call button to tell the FA I was getting off and asking to be rebooked since I would misconnect and would rather be stuck overnight in Chicago than London. "Oh, you can't...we're closing the door now. Plus, I'm sure you're wrong about your connection time. 'They' never would have given you an 80 minute connection to start with."
Then, she went back to the galley, right behind my seat, and her colleague asked her "what that was all about." "Oh, he's full of s--t. He thinks he knows more about flight times than we do."
I was floored.
The only upside to this whole thing...service was polite, friendly, and warm for the duration of the flight. Thank God I somehow managed to not let it linger and get threatened with arrest by a flight attendant who was clearly having a bad day. Somewhere during the whole boarding, at least I got a pre-departure champagne in a non-plastic glass. Are you listening United???
Psst, American, the 1980s called...they want their inflight entertainment system back:
Shortly after takeoff more mixed nuts, and a very generous pour of red wine:
Salmon starter, which was still covered in little ice chips. Apparently it hadn't been completely thawed out....PASS.
It's hard to make a memorable salad in flight, but this one was really good! Creamy dressing, spinach, blue cheese, and strawberries. I have to say, both this salad and the one I had in transcon first from Miami to LA were really good. Score one for AA in the salad department!
I couldn't resist trying the turkey, since I'm pretty sure I've never seen that on a plane before. It was a breaded cutlet with an extremely sweet sour cherry sauce on it. It was edible, but a bit too weird for my tastes. Plus, notice the empty wine glass...
Apparently, they had "forgotten" to load the cheese course, so I had a sundae with butterscotch. It was a nice change from the chocolate, caramel, and strawberry gloop choices you get on United:
The menus:
The agents were kind enough to let me sleep until barely 10 minutes before touchdown, so I got a solid 5+ hours and was ready for the sprint to the gate. According to the app we had made up more time en route, and I now had 35 minutes to make my connection.
The first sign of trouble was when I got off the plane and there were several agents there asking about connections. I told them Ghana, and the lady said "ohhhhhhhh.....YOU need to talk to him" and handed me over to her colleague. Apparently I had "already missed my flight" (how? I still have 35 minutes) and that had rebooked me to Ghana...on Kenya Airways via Nairobi...in economy arriving nearly 16 hours late. Um, no.
Sensing this agent had no power at all, I thanked him and headed for the transfer desk. The agents at the transfer desk were equally unhelpful, but finally agreed to ask BA if they would please put me back on the flight since the flight hadn't even started boarding yet! Nope, completely full now according to BA, so no way to get on it. I kept pressing the issue, and no dice, BA insisted there was no way to put me back on the flight regardless if it hadn't even started boarding. AA had offloaded me and reticketed me proactively, so they had to solve it. I would have had no trouble at all making the flight...and was texting Ian the whole time who was in the gate area. Why couldn't AA let me take the risk of the 15 minute connection, and rebook me IF I miss it. Now, I was screwed.
The agents at the transfer desk refused to offer me anything beyond the Kenya Airlines option, even when I explained I had a connection the next day to Bamako, and finally, for the second time in 12 hours, I had to speak to a supervisor. "Why don't you clear security and go to the Admirals Club? You'll find a supervisor there."
I did as suggested, security took maybe five minutes, and I explained the situation to the lady at the front desk of the Admirals Club. She was super understanding, and suggested I take a seat and she would get someone from Premium Services to come find me. The gentleman arrived about 10 minutes later, and I walked him through the whole chain of tickets and events. He asked what he could do to get a satisfactory outcome. He sat with me patiently as I got out ExpertFlyer and looked for options.
The only way to get to Mali on time now would be to fly straight there. There was no way to get to Accra in time to make my connection. I found just two seats left on Air France the next day direct from Paris to Bamako. I told him the only options would be to (1) send me straight to Bamako the next day on Air France or (2) return me home and I'll try this trip again at another stage.
He assured me he would be happy to send me back to the US - either JFK or ORD and on to DCA...my choice...in first class either same day or the next day. That would be no problem at all. He said there was a chance he could get one of those last two seats on Air France, so why don't I enjoy something to eat and drink while he worked on it. I finally got my cheese!
Miracle of miracles, he came back about 30 minutes later...Air France was confirmed and ticketed! He offered a hotel and meal vouchers at Heathrow, but instead I opted to get a Heathrow Express ticket and go into the city and see friends. Not much to tell about here - it was early evening by the time I got downtown. Had a nice dinner with a friend and then met others for drinks...and ended up staying out much later than I should.
So, let's pick this up where it gets interesting again. The flights.
Air France flight 1581
London, Heathrow (LHR) to Paris, Charles de Gaulle (CDG)
Depart 12:10, Arrive 14:30, Flight Time: 1:20
Airbus A320, Registration F-GKXS, Manufactured 2009, Seat 5D
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 91,398
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,280,923
The irony of this flight is it was across the hall from the gate where I had flown London to Abu Dhabi in Etihad Apartments exactly two weeks prior. I never transit T4 at Heathrow, and here I was at two gates right next to each other in two weeks. Funny how it happens!
This flight was a hot mess. There was clearly a large family who had been in London on a shopping trip as a man, what looked to be his teen son - complete with Gucci embroidered velvet jacket - and 11 women boarded. The 11 women, two adults and nine teens/children were all sitting in business (which was completely full) and the two men were in economy. That's when I felt a tapping on my shoulder. It was the adult who it turns out was in the bulkhead seat right behind me in coach..."will you take my seat please?" and handed me a 100 euro note. Uhhh...it's a 40 minute flight, the seats are exactly the same...so, um, sure?
I moved one row back, and the flight attendant came up and asked me what was going on. I explained to him, and he laughed, and said "I'll bring you your meal and drinks anyways." Easiest 100 euros I've made! I had been on this same route with BA two weeks prior, and I have to say the two products were neck and neck. BA's meal was maybe slightly better, but who needs a meal on a 40 minute flight. Both were very generous with the champagne.
Despite ATC holds around Paris, I still had enough time to enjoy the lounge a bit before boarding my connecting flight to Mali:
What could be more french than wine and cheese with some Evian in the lounge?
Air France flight 386
Paris, Charles de Gaulle (CDG) to Bamako, Mali (BKO)
Depart 16:30, Arrive 20:20, Flight Time: 5:50
Airbus A340-300, Registration F-GLZK, Manufactured 1997, Seat 6E
Miles Flown Year-to-Date: 93,982
Lifetime Miles Flown: 2,283,507
I was excited to be flying Air France again. My first experience had been five months prior and I really had enjoyed it, so I looked forward to seeing if those two flights were the rule or the exception. PDB champagne. Real champagne. None of that US airline sparkling grape nonsense:
The menu looked super:
Amuse bouche...smoked salmon and cream with some crackers. Maybe the crackers weren't, en francais, "super classy" but it was nice to have a change from mixed nuts:
Mmmmm fois gras and smoked cod on panna cotta:
The cod with smoked salmon and parmesan crumble with chili pepper was out of this world. Maybe my favourite airline entree of all time...and I feel like I said the same thing a few months prior on Air France. Apparently, nobody can do gourmet cooking like Air France in business class. Plus, look at those cheeses!
...and not just one, but four mini desserts! YUM!
Overall, Air France hit another home run with me. So much so that I'm actively trying to find a way to try their first class product now. Their seats may be a bit behind the times, but the food and service on all three medium haul flights was outstanding!
Unfortunately, my first longhaul American experience was a shambles both on the ground and in flight. If not for the amazing staff at the Heathrow Admirals club I would have been left with an extremely bitter taste in my mouth. Now, to start fighting American for the 600 Euros in delay compensation I'm due and for credit on the missed Heathrow-Accra flight.
Next up...Mali!
Jun 11, 2016, 8:33 am
#15
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Dubai
Posts: 3,301
Glad it all worked out, last thing needed on your last trip across the Atlantic to Africa to complete the 196.
I pity the the poor, unsuspecting smug gate agent or customer service rep who has to face the wrath of a not-too-happy, world-traveller Jason though
!
Looking forward to one more ironmanjt West African adventure
.
I pity the the poor, unsuspecting smug gate agent or customer service rep who has to face the wrath of a not-too-happy, world-traveller Jason though
!Looking forward to one more ironmanjt West African adventure
.