RTW#3: Vietnam, Maldives, and Tackling India’s Golden Triangle. (AC/OZ/SQ/AI/TK)
Jun 6, 2015, 12:20 am
#61
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Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: YVR - Vancouver, with most winter weekends in Whistler.
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Nice TR, I especially enjoyed your underwater pics from the Maldives. I stayed at the Park Hyatt Maldives too and enjoyed snorkelling in the house reef, definitely one of the best spots to snorkel in and I got a close encounter with a giant turtle there!
And when I read about your experience with Air India, it mirrors my past reserved trip with them too. I had purchased a one way ticket from Delhi to Mumbai for a non-stop flight on what was supposed to be their 77W, but supposedly I got re-booked on their A321 with a stop-over. Basically I learnt that when taking Air India, you can get a small jet instead of a wide body and even get a free stop in some unknown city.
And when I read about your experience with Air India, it mirrors my past reserved trip with them too. I had purchased a one way ticket from Delhi to Mumbai for a non-stop flight on what was supposed to be their 77W, but supposedly I got re-booked on their A321 with a stop-over. Basically I learnt that when taking Air India, you can get a small jet instead of a wide body and even get a free stop in some unknown city.
We're coming up to some of your old haunts here. We didn't have any major swaps during the rest of the trip other than muck up with our award ticket. Would I fly Air India again? Probably not . . .
Terrific trip report! Looking forward to the rest !
As someone who grew up in India, I can attest to the fact that Air India is a horrible airline. The last time I was on it was 20 years ago and it was terrible. I go out of my way to avoid it and would recommend that others do the same.For travel within India, I would highly recommend Indigo and Jet Airways.
As someone who grew up in India, I can attest to the fact that Air India is a horrible airline. The last time I was on it was 20 years ago and it was terrible. I go out of my way to avoid it and would recommend that others do the same.For travel within India, I would highly recommend Indigo and Jet Airways.
Jun 6, 2015, 12:32 am
#62
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: YVR - Vancouver, with most winter weekends in Whistler.
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Posts: 4,609
Air India Maharajah Lounge
Chennai New International Airport
Terminal 4 – Gate 11.
On arrival to Chennai, we proceded through India arrival immigration. India has this mixed category arrival situation where you have domestic passengers arriving in the same concourse area as international passengers. Domestic passengers were able to use the Domestic lines upon showing a boarding pass with the giant printed “D” on it. These lines are immediately adjacent and off to the side of to the international check in lines. This strange set up seems to occur at several airports throughout the system.
Back to our arrival in Chennai: the immigration officer checked our visas, asked us a few questions about our routing, took an digital image of us and stamped us in. At this point in the long day, it’s probably worth mentioning the adventures of getting an Indian Visa. I don’t usually use a visa handler when I get my visas at home and take matters into my own hands. This meant lining up at the Surrey, British Columbia, Canada BLS International outsourced Indian Visa office one morning. When applying for visas, sometimes you’re able to get in and out quickly without much effort or paperwork (the Indonesia consulate in Vancouver comes to mind). Instead, I arrived at 10 minutes after 8 AM opening on Saturday morning and ended up waiting 4 1/2 hours. Fortunately, process went relatively smoothly, and my passport was mailed back to my house by courier within 14 days.
We didn’t get any instructions surrounding the transfer of our bags from Air India in Male other than the helpful “you don’t have to worry about them”, so we waited around on in the arrivals area and located our bags on the belt. We cleared customs and headed out to follow the signs for the domestic transfers.
Adding a good dose of Indian drama to the day, the Chennai Airport is in the middle of construction. The sign posting wasn’t very good, and the signs for domestic transfer led us to a dead end enclosed hall with an x ray machine that was guarded by a sole military guard. The area looked like it was once a domestic transfers area, but the entire area had been gutted down to the metal studs with bare electrical exposed, missing drywall and temporary construction lighting flooding the hall. It wasn’t in any operational shape.
I asked the military guard where the domestic transfer was and he told me to wait. He left the area and I happened to note that the passageway that you’d typically take after you dropped your bags on the usual conveyor belt was boarded up and didn’t lead anywhere. There were times when you travel that your’ spider senses get tingly and this happened to be one of them. I was a little worried he was going to get some people to shake us down for a bribe since we weren’t in public view of the terminal since the passenger flow had been reconfigured away from this old transfer desk area. Perhaps this was unfounded, but we ended up quickly leaving the area before he got back – thinking that we could do better ourselves. We headed outdoors and started to wander towards what looked like the departure hall.
We headed up to another terminal down a long outdoor walkway. It was a pretty desolate area underneath a viaduct accompanied with a walk past a stinky construction rubbish tip. There was an elevated subway that was under construction and not yet operational. I approached another military guard to ask for directions. We were told to head back the direction that we came (at the opposite end). It seems the building that we arrived in was in between 2 terminals in various stages of life and use. I flagged down a random golf cart driver and we loaded up our bags. After a courtesy donation and a few rupees poorer, we got dropped off at the correct terminal and were able to bag drop without any issues. The arrival experience was sort of what I expected. The stereotypes of Indian chaos were alive with the dis-organized directions. Thankfully, we had some time to get it sorted.
We headed up to the departures hall and checked in. After a military check of our printed itinerary, we were led into a sterile and mostly clean departures hall. There were high ceilings and plenty of space. There was a viewing gallery that appeared to be a blocked off and segregated regular entrance that someone was charging 100 Rupees for entering. Adding to the confusion was that our “domestic” Air India flight from Chennai to Delhi was departing from the “international” terminal. We bypassed the international exit customs stamping lanes using the bizarre domestic lane and found the Air India International Maharajah Lounge by Gate 11. We found the Air India Maharajah smiling at us again at the entrance.
We gained access thanks to class of service and we were warmly greeted by two lounge hosts wearing sari’s. We settled into a very tired but colored place. It was pretty dingy on the corners. Initially, I found it no worse than a worn United Club but after the first impressions had passed, it was a pretty rough and tired place. It was easily the most tired Star Alliance Lounge that I’ve ever been in. I can’t imagine actually ever paying to use this lounge if it was a pay per entry place.
There was also a tired looking bar area that was completely shuttered. As before throughout our Air India journey, there was no alcohol. Drinks were limited to tinned coca colas’ and orange Fanta’s. Of course, there wasn’t any ice and it probably wouldn’t have been safe for us to drink anyway.
There was a small buffet on offer, featuring traditional Indian foods. I was initially a little skeptical about eating Indian foods off of hotel grounds but I needn’t had worried. The food appeared fresh and well cooked and prepared. During our time in the lounge, we well taken care of by the hosts. They were exceptionally attentive and offered to refill drinks, suggested and recommended foods and promptly cleared plates. There wasn’t the usual disinterest on the part of the typical older flight attendants and the Air India staff genuinely appeared to enjoy their jobs. The bathrooms in the lounge (no showers available by the way) were atrocious but what were we really expecting? I’ve had cleaner washrooms at a soccer or football stadium.
After a few hours, we left and went to departure hall. It was pretty boring in the lounge. India, where anything is possible, of course has things backwards from normal airports. The departure hall was downstairs in a dark basement whereas most airport departure halls are upstairs. The consequence was that the departure hall space was sterile, drab and dark. The bright lighting over compensated for a departure hall that wasn't too impressive.
While we were waiting for the flight, you’ll never guess what came next.
Surprise. Another flight delay; announced again courtesy of the Flight Track Pro iPhone app. This time it is +45 minutes from the scheduled departure time. All in today, we had 3 Air India flights today, with three of these delays longer than 45 minutes. It was a cumulative total delay time of over 4 hrs and 15 minutes. Add this to our needless early wake ups at the Park Hyatt, our last minute flight re-schedule and we were pretty much done with Air India. If I wasn’t really impressed, you could imagine MrsWT73’s delight. “You are never putting us on this carrier again.” All right. I guess that’s settled!
To make matters more frustrating, there doesn’t seem to be any appetite to operate on time, nor any effort on the part of the carrier at communication with flight delays.
When boarding was called, we entered into a long line. There was no priority board or boarding by zone but I sent MrsWT73 to the front of the queue to ask ground agents about priority board and she waved me up. We bypassed the long boarding line.
Unfortunately, that didn’t matter much. There was still a ghastly line on the jet bridge.
The bottom line: a pretty shockingly tired international lounge masquerading as a room to hang out in, with a telly and quasi-room temperature drinks. I wouldn't attempt to get here early for the sole purpose of visiting. The closed bar made me feel like I was a youngster in my parents' basement before I was old enough to drink. The bright spot was that the staff were exceptionally attentive and aiming to please. I felt like I was being taken care of by two mothers and made to feel at home.
Chennai New International Airport
Terminal 4 – Gate 11.
On arrival to Chennai, we proceded through India arrival immigration. India has this mixed category arrival situation where you have domestic passengers arriving in the same concourse area as international passengers. Domestic passengers were able to use the Domestic lines upon showing a boarding pass with the giant printed “D” on it. These lines are immediately adjacent and off to the side of to the international check in lines. This strange set up seems to occur at several airports throughout the system.
Back to our arrival in Chennai: the immigration officer checked our visas, asked us a few questions about our routing, took an digital image of us and stamped us in. At this point in the long day, it’s probably worth mentioning the adventures of getting an Indian Visa. I don’t usually use a visa handler when I get my visas at home and take matters into my own hands. This meant lining up at the Surrey, British Columbia, Canada BLS International outsourced Indian Visa office one morning. When applying for visas, sometimes you’re able to get in and out quickly without much effort or paperwork (the Indonesia consulate in Vancouver comes to mind). Instead, I arrived at 10 minutes after 8 AM opening on Saturday morning and ended up waiting 4 1/2 hours. Fortunately, process went relatively smoothly, and my passport was mailed back to my house by courier within 14 days.
We didn’t get any instructions surrounding the transfer of our bags from Air India in Male other than the helpful “you don’t have to worry about them”, so we waited around on in the arrivals area and located our bags on the belt. We cleared customs and headed out to follow the signs for the domestic transfers.
Adding a good dose of Indian drama to the day, the Chennai Airport is in the middle of construction. The sign posting wasn’t very good, and the signs for domestic transfer led us to a dead end enclosed hall with an x ray machine that was guarded by a sole military guard. The area looked like it was once a domestic transfers area, but the entire area had been gutted down to the metal studs with bare electrical exposed, missing drywall and temporary construction lighting flooding the hall. It wasn’t in any operational shape.
I asked the military guard where the domestic transfer was and he told me to wait. He left the area and I happened to note that the passageway that you’d typically take after you dropped your bags on the usual conveyor belt was boarded up and didn’t lead anywhere. There were times when you travel that your’ spider senses get tingly and this happened to be one of them. I was a little worried he was going to get some people to shake us down for a bribe since we weren’t in public view of the terminal since the passenger flow had been reconfigured away from this old transfer desk area. Perhaps this was unfounded, but we ended up quickly leaving the area before he got back – thinking that we could do better ourselves. We headed outdoors and started to wander towards what looked like the departure hall.
We headed up to another terminal down a long outdoor walkway. It was a pretty desolate area underneath a viaduct accompanied with a walk past a stinky construction rubbish tip. There was an elevated subway that was under construction and not yet operational. I approached another military guard to ask for directions. We were told to head back the direction that we came (at the opposite end). It seems the building that we arrived in was in between 2 terminals in various stages of life and use. I flagged down a random golf cart driver and we loaded up our bags. After a courtesy donation and a few rupees poorer, we got dropped off at the correct terminal and were able to bag drop without any issues. The arrival experience was sort of what I expected. The stereotypes of Indian chaos were alive with the dis-organized directions. Thankfully, we had some time to get it sorted.
We headed up to the departures hall and checked in. After a military check of our printed itinerary, we were led into a sterile and mostly clean departures hall. There were high ceilings and plenty of space. There was a viewing gallery that appeared to be a blocked off and segregated regular entrance that someone was charging 100 Rupees for entering. Adding to the confusion was that our “domestic” Air India flight from Chennai to Delhi was departing from the “international” terminal. We bypassed the international exit customs stamping lanes using the bizarre domestic lane and found the Air India International Maharajah Lounge by Gate 11. We found the Air India Maharajah smiling at us again at the entrance.
We gained access thanks to class of service and we were warmly greeted by two lounge hosts wearing sari’s. We settled into a very tired but colored place. It was pretty dingy on the corners. Initially, I found it no worse than a worn United Club but after the first impressions had passed, it was a pretty rough and tired place. It was easily the most tired Star Alliance Lounge that I’ve ever been in. I can’t imagine actually ever paying to use this lounge if it was a pay per entry place.
There was also a tired looking bar area that was completely shuttered. As before throughout our Air India journey, there was no alcohol. Drinks were limited to tinned coca colas’ and orange Fanta’s. Of course, there wasn’t any ice and it probably wouldn’t have been safe for us to drink anyway.
There was a small buffet on offer, featuring traditional Indian foods. I was initially a little skeptical about eating Indian foods off of hotel grounds but I needn’t had worried. The food appeared fresh and well cooked and prepared. During our time in the lounge, we well taken care of by the hosts. They were exceptionally attentive and offered to refill drinks, suggested and recommended foods and promptly cleared plates. There wasn’t the usual disinterest on the part of the typical older flight attendants and the Air India staff genuinely appeared to enjoy their jobs. The bathrooms in the lounge (no showers available by the way) were atrocious but what were we really expecting? I’ve had cleaner washrooms at a soccer or football stadium.
After a few hours, we left and went to departure hall. It was pretty boring in the lounge. India, where anything is possible, of course has things backwards from normal airports. The departure hall was downstairs in a dark basement whereas most airport departure halls are upstairs. The consequence was that the departure hall space was sterile, drab and dark. The bright lighting over compensated for a departure hall that wasn't too impressive.
While we were waiting for the flight, you’ll never guess what came next.
Surprise. Another flight delay; announced again courtesy of the Flight Track Pro iPhone app. This time it is +45 minutes from the scheduled departure time. All in today, we had 3 Air India flights today, with three of these delays longer than 45 minutes. It was a cumulative total delay time of over 4 hrs and 15 minutes. Add this to our needless early wake ups at the Park Hyatt, our last minute flight re-schedule and we were pretty much done with Air India. If I wasn’t really impressed, you could imagine MrsWT73’s delight. “You are never putting us on this carrier again.” All right. I guess that’s settled!
To make matters more frustrating, there doesn’t seem to be any appetite to operate on time, nor any effort on the part of the carrier at communication with flight delays.When boarding was called, we entered into a long line. There was no priority board or boarding by zone but I sent MrsWT73 to the front of the queue to ask ground agents about priority board and she waved me up. We bypassed the long boarding line.
Unfortunately, that didn’t matter much. There was still a ghastly line on the jet bridge.
The bottom line: a pretty shockingly tired international lounge masquerading as a room to hang out in, with a telly and quasi-room temperature drinks. I wouldn't attempt to get here early for the sole purpose of visiting. The closed bar made me feel like I was a youngster in my parents' basement before I was old enough to drink. The bright spot was that the staff were exceptionally attentive and aiming to please. I felt like I was being taken care of by two mothers and made to feel at home.
Jun 6, 2015, 12:44 am
#63
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: YVR - Vancouver, with most winter weekends in Whistler.
Programs: Aeroplan 35K, Alaska MVP, Marriott Titanium / Lifetime Platinum, Hertz President's Circle
Posts: 4,609
Air India
Business Class
MAA – DEL (Chennai International Airport – Indira Gandhi International Airport)
AI43 – Business Class (I)
9:00 PM – 11:45 PM
April 14, 2015
Booked: Airbus 320
Flown: Airbus 320
With our last flight of the day, we finally settled into an actual real business class cabin. We were looking forward to a better experience than our last two economy flights. As we settled in on board, the first thing that I happened to notice was that the carpets were showing a lot of wear without much effort in cleaning them thanks to stains that had been ground into the carpet. We settled into a nice off olive colored barca-lounger seat in a 2 X 2 configuration with a total of three rows (twelve seats) in this configuration.
This equipment type featured some very dated IFE systems. It was reminiscent of the Boeing 747-200’s I used to fly when I was very young.
A pre-departure beverage of apple or orange juice was offered. You'll notice that the bubbles are conspicuously absent.
Shortly after takeoff, dinner service was offered. Tonight’s serving was butter chicken on proper plates. It was complete with your own serving of curd. It seemed to be the exact same economy meal we had earlier today between Male and Trivandum instead plated on business plates. No celebrity chef here!
It was indeed tasty but not super fresh. 
I was looking forward to a beer – a Kingfisher or anything else by this point. Unfortunately it was another dry aircraft. What are these people thinking? This alcohol free condition was announced via the public address system that alcohol was prohibited on board. At his point, MrsWT73 reminded me that “You are never flying me on Air India ever again”. Yikes. I later learned that this dry rule is an Indian government regulation that all domestic flights remain alcohol free.
I was looking forward to catching up on a movie since there was no entertainment or television on the earlier legs. Unfortunately, the in flight entertainment system was inoperative. There was no change in that condition for the entire flight.
Rounding out the meal, I enjoyed a dessert with coffee. The catering was by TAJ hotels of Madras. This seemed to be a theme of our Air India flights in that the food catering was executed by a local high end hotel chain.
I attemped to relax a little after the dinner. Unfortunately, my seat was also busted and there was no recline. I didn’t bother to move seats at this point as our flight and day were almost over.
We landed at very remote gate at Indira Ghandi Inernational Airport. As we arrived at the Customs Hall (in the international arrivals hall, despite being a domestic flight) we arrived at the mudras hands. A mudras is a spiritual gesture and an energetic seal of authenticity employed in the iconography and spiritual practice of Indian religions. These are among the coolest sculptures I’ve seen in an airport that are representative of the country that they feature.
The day being almost over it came time to sum up my feelings about Air India. Air India is obviously very proud to be in Star Alliance. The Star Alliance logo is featured almost everywhere and mentioned at almost every opportunity. Surprisingly, the service levels, as with many aspects of Indian culture were quite high in that staff genuinely appeared to want to assist and accommodate you. Every time we had an interaction with staff, we were greeted with warmth, sincerity and compassion. They also feature some unique branding with their friendly Maharajahs’ characters that greet you at almost every opportunity.
Unfortunately, Air India has a very long way to go to get anywhere near the levels of the other members in Star Alliances. This may sound elitist but it's true. Their reputation of being less than a stellar carrier was well earned. It’s planes and lounges are atrociously bad and their hard product seems to have been badly neglected and worn. There appears to be no appetite or interest to run on time. Delays must happen so often that staff don’t even bother announcing them. Even Egypt Air appears to have things much more together with proper cleaniness, functioning hard product and prompt flight timings. Needless to say, flying Air India is not a way to impress your wife or significant other!! For us, it was a way to get from the Maldives to India on the same award. Ultimately it’s short haul product, is a very mediocre product with a very long way to go to improve to get to international levels.
Jun 6, 2015, 12:47 am
#64
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: MAA
Programs: EK, JP
Posts: 68
WT73,
Welcome to the WORST Airport in India in Chennai. Chennai is where I live, and let me tell you, the airport is one big dump. MIllions of Dollars down the drain, with poor planning, construction and apathy. Trust me, I get depressed stepping into the airport every time I land back from a trip abroad
Looking forward to reading the rest of your trip and I hope India gives you a better impression of who and what we really are rather than the S*** H*** called Chennai International Airport.
Welcome to the WORST Airport in India in Chennai. Chennai is where I live, and let me tell you, the airport is one big dump. MIllions of Dollars down the drain, with poor planning, construction and apathy. Trust me, I get depressed stepping into the airport every time I land back from a trip abroad
Looking forward to reading the rest of your trip and I hope India gives you a better impression of who and what we really are rather than the S*** H*** called Chennai International Airport.
Jun 7, 2015, 6:31 pm
#65
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: ORD
Programs: US Air, UA BA LH AI DELTA MARRIOTT CHOICE SGP
Posts: 9,883
...73 Enjoying your TR. Yes sadly AI is gar behind times...the delays etc you experienced are a result of decades of bureaucratic bungling and corruption too. They are trying to improve now....recently AI fired 217 employees for tardiness. A step in the right direction.
I am very glad that you have perceived the warm friendly nature of Indians you have interacted so far. Indians as a people are warm, caring and very hospitable.
The Mudras you refer to are a 5000 years plus medicle science ( yoga and Ayurveda). These different "poses" represent various two fingers / thumb joining that helps, improves some functions of the mind and body. Books are available on Amazon etc.
I am very glad that you have perceived the warm friendly nature of Indians you have interacted so far. Indians as a people are warm, caring and very hospitable.
The Mudras you refer to are a 5000 years plus medicle science ( yoga and Ayurveda). These different "poses" represent various two fingers / thumb joining that helps, improves some functions of the mind and body. Books are available on Amazon etc.
Jun 9, 2015, 10:42 pm
#66
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: YVR - Vancouver, with most winter weekends in Whistler.
Programs: Aeroplan 35K, Alaska MVP, Marriott Titanium / Lifetime Platinum, Hertz President's Circle
Posts: 4,609
WT73,
Welcome to the WORST Airport in India in Chennai. Chennai is where I live, and let me tell you, the airport is one big dump. MIllions of Dollars down the drain, with poor planning, construction and apathy. Trust me, I get depressed stepping into the airport every time I land back from a trip abroad
Welcome to the WORST Airport in India in Chennai. Chennai is where I live, and let me tell you, the airport is one big dump. MIllions of Dollars down the drain, with poor planning, construction and apathy. Trust me, I get depressed stepping into the airport every time I land back from a trip abroad
...73 Enjoying your TR. Yes sadly AI is gar behind times...the delays etc you experienced are a result of decades of bureaucratic bungling and corruption too. They are trying to improve now....recently AI fired 217 employees for tardiness. A step in the right direction.
I am very glad that you have perceived the warm friendly nature of Indians you have interacted so far. Indians as a people are warm, caring and very hospitable.
The Mudras you refer to are a 5000 years plus medicle science ( yoga and Ayurveda). These different "poses" represent various two fingers / thumb joining that helps, improves some functions of the mind and body. Books are available on Amazon etc.
I am very glad that you have perceived the warm friendly nature of Indians you have interacted so far. Indians as a people are warm, caring and very hospitable.
The Mudras you refer to are a 5000 years plus medicle science ( yoga and Ayurveda). These different "poses" represent various two fingers / thumb joining that helps, improves some functions of the mind and body. Books are available on Amazon etc.
Jun 9, 2015, 10:53 pm
#67
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: YVR - Vancouver, with most winter weekends in Whistler.
Programs: Aeroplan 35K, Alaska MVP, Marriott Titanium / Lifetime Platinum, Hertz President's Circle
Posts: 4,609
The Leela
Royal Club Room
New Delhi
Thankfully, our bags arrived in Delhi one piece. I probably should have just been happy that they arrived. The Indira Ganhdi New Delhi arrivals hall looked more like arriving to London Heathrow than it did arriving to India; High ceilings, relative cleanliness, Costa Coffee franchise and various other high street retail outlets along with ample space and elbow room dotted the public side of the arrivals hall.
I had chosen The Leela Palace New Delhi hotel for several reasons. It had been recently reviewed in a trip report by flyer talk member blueline7, a colleague at work had recently stayed here on a trip home and had raved about it, and lastly, the hotel advertised private tour services through their website. We were looking for a hotel where we would be led on tours, including an option for the Taj Mahal, as opposed to our usual independent self guided adventures. It was also a member of the Global Hotel Alliance Group (Pan Pacific, Anatara, Kempinski chains). All of this fit the bill and with excellent reviews on trip advisor, and ratings as one of the Top 100 hotels in the world by the Robb Report and Travel and Leisure magazine, we were all set.
We were met on the public side of the arrivals hall by several Leela Staff whom were attired in three piece suits. You could tell it was “showtime” as the staff were professionally attired at the hour of midnight, above a level of the typical but somewhat dis-interested airport meet and greet service.
We were led out to a crisp white BMW 525i for our transfer to the Leela Palace. Of note, the hotel offered BMW 5 series car transfers included the Royal Club room rates. The staff were exceptionally professional. The driver asked if we wanted radio music (or not at all) and advising us once seated in the car that they had placed 4 bags in the trunk and not to worry about any details.
There were a few horses running around the road on our midnight drive in. It was mostly quiet except for a few commercial lorries. Our driver indicated that New Delhi has restrictions on commercial trucks during the day, and that most are forced to drive at night.
After a short twenty minutes, we arrived to The Leela Palace at the Diplomatic Enclave in Chankayapuri. The hotel is well guarded with a security check of the vehicles and trunk for hazards amid a high wall and multiple security guards. We had our effects security screened and entered the lobby.
Our first impressions at 12:30 AM were outstanding. It’s absolutely fabulous looking hotel. Even MrsWT73, the road warrior these days, was thoroughly impressed thinking “it’s not too often you enter a hotel that takes your breath away”. We were met at the front door by a member of the concierge team, and immediately led up to our Royal Club room on ninth floor. The check – in formalities were completed in the room. I also arranged and confirmed our New Delhi tour for the next day. The simple ability to be able to do this from the comfort of your room immediately after arrival was a fantastic service touch. I had visions of running around in the lobby at 1:30 AM after arrival looking for a concierge tour desk at 2 AM trying to confirm the departure time. The bags were also brought up immediately and without delay.
The Royal Club room was exceptionally well appointed for a standard club room. It has a beautiful ceiling, nicely patterned carpet, it even had a TV in the bathtub. There was also a beautiful marble inlaid desk. The room also featured a half fridge, mini bar, 24 hr room dining and even a pillow menu! It was a very impressive and competent and professional arrival considering what a disaster Air India was on the way up from the Maldives.
Even the bathroom was over the top. It had comfortable robes, clean tiles and a television for the bathtub in a tasteful old world setting.
The room was also exceptionally quiet. It was at the end of the hall and was completely isolated from hallway noise from other guests. A first for me, the room’s pillow menu didn’t disappoint; horse hair, neck supporting or down?
We took it easy the next morning and enjoyed breakfast in the Royal Club Lounge. Every area of the hotel was well appointed with high end furnishings. Wainscoting on the walls, marble in the hallways, and fresh flowers were all around The Royal Club lounge was an opulent place with comfortable tables and couches in a nice “men’s club” type of environment with a royal flair.
We were promptly attended to by wait staff and served breakfast to order. We started tame with Eggs Benedict, and before the end of breakfast, we were sampling Indian favorites that were out of this world.
We were brought a sampler plate of Indian Specialties was nothing like I’d ever had tasted before. The food was exceptionally fresh with excellent flavor and depth.
The Royal Club offered prompt attention and really attentive service. We couldn’t get up at any time to get anything, with everything brought to us. All of the food in the Royal Club was included with the room rate, with 5 separate food offerings and menu themes per day (breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, happy hour with cocktails, dessert buffet). The majority of the food was made to order and we took little of the food offerings that had been set out (ordering off the menu for most snacks and light meals).
After breakfast, we took a look at the pool on the roof top of the building. The pool was an infinity pool surrounded by a green wall and a view of embassies and embassy residences. This was a neat place with an interesting view of the surrounding area.
Before we left for the day, we took a look at the gardens outside Cube, their international restaurant. The ground floor offered a patio for drinks outside in a nicely landscaped restaurant. I would imagine that this also doubled as a wedding area.
The beauty of The Leela Palace continued through the lobby and arrival area. It was dark when we arrived and we finally got to take a look at it in the day light of the morning. There was of course a lobby bar for tea and many people waiting for their appointments. The lobby was opulent and full of fresh flowers. Surprisingly, the reception and bell desk are practically invisible. I actually had to ask where they were. You know a hotel is doing well in the service department when you haven’t had a need to go to the front desk to get anything. Everything was brought to us and taken care of us in a pro-active manner by staff approaching us the minute we stepped off the elevator.
Our three day stay at The Leela Palace was flawless. It was easily one of the top ten hotel stays of my life; perhaps even within the top five. It’s easy to have things go well on a hotel stay when you are staying one night, or are spending most of your time outside of the hotel sightseeing or for work purposes. It’s harder to leave a good impression when you’re using every feature of the hotel (breakfast, restaurants, lounge, concierge etc…) By using every part of the hotel, you in essence test each part of the operation. The hotel was exceptionally well appointed, refined and super comfortable. Every need we could have possibly wanted was taken care of, even when arriving at 2 AM in the morning after an international flight. The service by all the staff members was excellent and the treatment we received as Royal Club guests was outstanding. I couldn’t recommend this place more highly.
Royal Club Room
New Delhi
Thankfully, our bags arrived in Delhi one piece. I probably should have just been happy that they arrived. The Indira Ganhdi New Delhi arrivals hall looked more like arriving to London Heathrow than it did arriving to India; High ceilings, relative cleanliness, Costa Coffee franchise and various other high street retail outlets along with ample space and elbow room dotted the public side of the arrivals hall.
I had chosen The Leela Palace New Delhi hotel for several reasons. It had been recently reviewed in a trip report by flyer talk member blueline7, a colleague at work had recently stayed here on a trip home and had raved about it, and lastly, the hotel advertised private tour services through their website. We were looking for a hotel where we would be led on tours, including an option for the Taj Mahal, as opposed to our usual independent self guided adventures. It was also a member of the Global Hotel Alliance Group (Pan Pacific, Anatara, Kempinski chains). All of this fit the bill and with excellent reviews on trip advisor, and ratings as one of the Top 100 hotels in the world by the Robb Report and Travel and Leisure magazine, we were all set.
We were met on the public side of the arrivals hall by several Leela Staff whom were attired in three piece suits. You could tell it was “showtime” as the staff were professionally attired at the hour of midnight, above a level of the typical but somewhat dis-interested airport meet and greet service.
We were led out to a crisp white BMW 525i for our transfer to the Leela Palace. Of note, the hotel offered BMW 5 series car transfers included the Royal Club room rates. The staff were exceptionally professional. The driver asked if we wanted radio music (or not at all) and advising us once seated in the car that they had placed 4 bags in the trunk and not to worry about any details.
There were a few horses running around the road on our midnight drive in. It was mostly quiet except for a few commercial lorries. Our driver indicated that New Delhi has restrictions on commercial trucks during the day, and that most are forced to drive at night.
After a short twenty minutes, we arrived to The Leela Palace at the Diplomatic Enclave in Chankayapuri. The hotel is well guarded with a security check of the vehicles and trunk for hazards amid a high wall and multiple security guards. We had our effects security screened and entered the lobby.
Our first impressions at 12:30 AM were outstanding. It’s absolutely fabulous looking hotel. Even MrsWT73, the road warrior these days, was thoroughly impressed thinking “it’s not too often you enter a hotel that takes your breath away”. We were met at the front door by a member of the concierge team, and immediately led up to our Royal Club room on ninth floor. The check – in formalities were completed in the room. I also arranged and confirmed our New Delhi tour for the next day. The simple ability to be able to do this from the comfort of your room immediately after arrival was a fantastic service touch. I had visions of running around in the lobby at 1:30 AM after arrival looking for a concierge tour desk at 2 AM trying to confirm the departure time. The bags were also brought up immediately and without delay.
The Royal Club room was exceptionally well appointed for a standard club room. It has a beautiful ceiling, nicely patterned carpet, it even had a TV in the bathtub. There was also a beautiful marble inlaid desk. The room also featured a half fridge, mini bar, 24 hr room dining and even a pillow menu! It was a very impressive and competent and professional arrival considering what a disaster Air India was on the way up from the Maldives.
Even the bathroom was over the top. It had comfortable robes, clean tiles and a television for the bathtub in a tasteful old world setting.
The room was also exceptionally quiet. It was at the end of the hall and was completely isolated from hallway noise from other guests. A first for me, the room’s pillow menu didn’t disappoint; horse hair, neck supporting or down?
We took it easy the next morning and enjoyed breakfast in the Royal Club Lounge. Every area of the hotel was well appointed with high end furnishings. Wainscoting on the walls, marble in the hallways, and fresh flowers were all around The Royal Club lounge was an opulent place with comfortable tables and couches in a nice “men’s club” type of environment with a royal flair.
We were promptly attended to by wait staff and served breakfast to order. We started tame with Eggs Benedict, and before the end of breakfast, we were sampling Indian favorites that were out of this world.
We were brought a sampler plate of Indian Specialties was nothing like I’d ever had tasted before. The food was exceptionally fresh with excellent flavor and depth.
The Royal Club offered prompt attention and really attentive service. We couldn’t get up at any time to get anything, with everything brought to us. All of the food in the Royal Club was included with the room rate, with 5 separate food offerings and menu themes per day (breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea, happy hour with cocktails, dessert buffet). The majority of the food was made to order and we took little of the food offerings that had been set out (ordering off the menu for most snacks and light meals).
After breakfast, we took a look at the pool on the roof top of the building. The pool was an infinity pool surrounded by a green wall and a view of embassies and embassy residences. This was a neat place with an interesting view of the surrounding area.
Before we left for the day, we took a look at the gardens outside Cube, their international restaurant. The ground floor offered a patio for drinks outside in a nicely landscaped restaurant. I would imagine that this also doubled as a wedding area.
The beauty of The Leela Palace continued through the lobby and arrival area. It was dark when we arrived and we finally got to take a look at it in the day light of the morning. There was of course a lobby bar for tea and many people waiting for their appointments. The lobby was opulent and full of fresh flowers. Surprisingly, the reception and bell desk are practically invisible. I actually had to ask where they were. You know a hotel is doing well in the service department when you haven’t had a need to go to the front desk to get anything. Everything was brought to us and taken care of us in a pro-active manner by staff approaching us the minute we stepped off the elevator.
Our three day stay at The Leela Palace was flawless. It was easily one of the top ten hotel stays of my life; perhaps even within the top five. It’s easy to have things go well on a hotel stay when you are staying one night, or are spending most of your time outside of the hotel sightseeing or for work purposes. It’s harder to leave a good impression when you’re using every feature of the hotel (breakfast, restaurants, lounge, concierge etc…) By using every part of the hotel, you in essence test each part of the operation. The hotel was exceptionally well appointed, refined and super comfortable. Every need we could have possibly wanted was taken care of, even when arriving at 2 AM in the morning after an international flight. The service by all the staff members was excellent and the treatment we received as Royal Club guests was outstanding. I couldn’t recommend this place more highly.
Jun 10, 2015, 2:35 pm
#69
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: ORD
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WT73 fantastic photos and write ups. Yes know the Leela product.
Looking forward to Agra and Rajasthan segments.
I am sure your TR along with the likes of blueline7 & SFO 777 will inspire many more to "discover" India and its people.
On my yearly trips I continue to marvel at their resilience and hospitality. India has the largest Middle Class now ( more than 400 million and growing rapidly). This has driven up the prices but you will never find a restaurant that is not doing good business !
Looking forward to Agra and Rajasthan segments.
I am sure your TR along with the likes of blueline7 & SFO 777 will inspire many more to "discover" India and its people.
On my yearly trips I continue to marvel at their resilience and hospitality. India has the largest Middle Class now ( more than 400 million and growing rapidly). This has driven up the prices but you will never find a restaurant that is not doing good business !
Jun 13, 2015, 12:33 am
#74
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: YVR - Vancouver, with most winter weekends in Whistler.
Programs: Aeroplan 35K, Alaska MVP, Marriott Titanium / Lifetime Platinum, Hertz President's Circle
Posts: 4,609
One day offerendum. Just remember if you don't do it this year, you'll only be one year older when you and your family do. Words to live by. 
Indeed HMPS - India is under represented in the Flyertalk Trip Report forum. It's a challenging travel environment but it is a worthwhile trip for a seasoned traveller.
I agree with your comment about India having a large middle class. You can chat with a shopkeeper and find out that their son went to school in Baltmore, USA. Most of the restaurants, as you noted, were quite full.
The Leela was awesome and they delivered flyingeph12 and RTW00! I can't say that about too many places these days. It had genuine elegance and class. Welcome to Flyertalk RTW00
I'm impressed Speedbird84. I can believe that MSN45 has been around that long - it had that elegant age of wear and tear that came with many cycles of Indian dust. It should be a senior citizen of the fleet.
Indeed Madone59 - that was the exit. At times, I thought that I was in the United Kingdom. Although, I have to say that the food was much much better.
WT73 fantastic photos and write ups. Yes know the Leela product.
Looking forward to Agra and Rajasthan segments.
I am sure your TR along with the likes of blueline7 & SFO 777 will inspire many more to "discover" India and its people.
On my yearly trips I continue to marvel at their resilience and hospitality. India has the largest Middle Class now ( more than 400 million and growing rapidly). This has driven up the prices but you will never find a restaurant that is not doing good business !
Looking forward to Agra and Rajasthan segments.
I am sure your TR along with the likes of blueline7 & SFO 777 will inspire many more to "discover" India and its people.
On my yearly trips I continue to marvel at their resilience and hospitality. India has the largest Middle Class now ( more than 400 million and growing rapidly). This has driven up the prices but you will never find a restaurant that is not doing good business !
I agree with your comment about India having a large middle class. You can chat with a shopkeeper and find out that their son went to school in Baltmore, USA. Most of the restaurants, as you noted, were quite full.
The Leela was awesome and they delivered flyingeph12 and RTW00! I can't say that about too many places these days. It had genuine elegance and class. Welcome to Flyertalk RTW00
Last edited by worldtraveller73; Jun 14, 2015 at 11:18 am
Jun 13, 2015, 12:50 am
#75
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: YVR - Vancouver, with most winter weekends in Whistler.
Programs: Aeroplan 35K, Alaska MVP, Marriott Titanium / Lifetime Platinum, Hertz President's Circle
Posts: 4,609
New Delhi,
India
On our first day in New Delhi we took it easy. As I had mentioned, our flight the night before had us to bed by 2 AM. We had a tour planned through the hotel using a guide and a car supplied by the hotel. While I was checking emails at breakfast, I found it pretty entertaining that Uber Bajaj’s (Auto Rickshaws / Tuk Tuk’s) are now arriving on a smartphone near you.
After breakfast, we met our tour guide in the lobby at 1 PM. The tour guide was arranged by The Leela Palace but not employed directly by the hotel. We used a hotel car for the 4-hour half day tour. In lieu of a Tuk Tuk, they supplied a lovely white BMW 525d from their fleet and a driver for a flat tour rate. You can just tell the service level of The Leela Palace based this impromptu candid shot by how the uniformed staff are properly waiting on people based on their attention to detail and to their guests.
As we buckled into the car, we set off into the labyrinth of activity that is the city of New Delhi. As the capital city of India, a country now surpassing a 1.2 billion population, people were everywhere. It was slightly different than busy and crowded China; the other heavily populated world country. My experiences of China were that the cities were crowded, and everyone gets around on infrastructure that’s already been built that’s capable of high density and high quantities of people movement. In India, people had no infrastructure and every one was getting around with whatever means possible. People were out in bajaj’s, coaches and on foot. Although the streets were busy, it’s wasn’t over the top packed. Part of the thrill of traveling in India is just taking in the street scene that appears all around you.
We drove New Delhi’s elevated freeways to Jama Masjid. Jama Masjid is one of the largest mosques in India. It was built sometime between 1644 and 1658. Its courtyard was designed to hold 25,000 worshippers. MrsWT73 had to use one of the provided shawls to cover up during her visit – even to the main courtyard area. There was also a small camera “fee”.
The Masjid was evenly balanced in a square format. It wasn’t glossy like the Sheikh Zayed Mosque in Abu Dhabi or seemly rich in history like the Al – Azhar Mosque in Cairo, Egypt. Instead, it was much more discreet and subdued with minimal flair. It was interesting as it was constructed of the red brick that was so typically common around the historic buildings of India.
There seemed to be quite a few domestic Indian tourists visiting, more so than there were worshippers. Many children were curious and followed MrsWT73 around thanks to her light Ukrainian skin. And so, the celebrity treatment started. . . MrsWT73 should have started charging 500 Rupees a photo but we missed out on that opportunity. She had participated in no less than a dozen impromptu photo sessions throughout India by the time this trip was over. I actually think she enjoyed all of them.
After Jama Masjid, we stepped out into our first taste of the streets of the real New Delhi. With no protection from fenced walls or other hotel security guards, we got our taste of the first real street life. It seems everything goes here and everything is hauled around on wagons or pedi-cabs. My job working away at my computer seemed pretty mundane compared to the back breaking work that these guys had to do to earn a dollar.
India
On our first day in New Delhi we took it easy. As I had mentioned, our flight the night before had us to bed by 2 AM. We had a tour planned through the hotel using a guide and a car supplied by the hotel. While I was checking emails at breakfast, I found it pretty entertaining that Uber Bajaj’s (Auto Rickshaws / Tuk Tuk’s) are now arriving on a smartphone near you.
After breakfast, we met our tour guide in the lobby at 1 PM. The tour guide was arranged by The Leela Palace but not employed directly by the hotel. We used a hotel car for the 4-hour half day tour. In lieu of a Tuk Tuk, they supplied a lovely white BMW 525d from their fleet and a driver for a flat tour rate. You can just tell the service level of The Leela Palace based this impromptu candid shot by how the uniformed staff are properly waiting on people based on their attention to detail and to their guests.
As we buckled into the car, we set off into the labyrinth of activity that is the city of New Delhi. As the capital city of India, a country now surpassing a 1.2 billion population, people were everywhere. It was slightly different than busy and crowded China; the other heavily populated world country. My experiences of China were that the cities were crowded, and everyone gets around on infrastructure that’s already been built that’s capable of high density and high quantities of people movement. In India, people had no infrastructure and every one was getting around with whatever means possible. People were out in bajaj’s, coaches and on foot. Although the streets were busy, it’s wasn’t over the top packed. Part of the thrill of traveling in India is just taking in the street scene that appears all around you.
We drove New Delhi’s elevated freeways to Jama Masjid. Jama Masjid is one of the largest mosques in India. It was built sometime between 1644 and 1658. Its courtyard was designed to hold 25,000 worshippers. MrsWT73 had to use one of the provided shawls to cover up during her visit – even to the main courtyard area. There was also a small camera “fee”.
The Masjid was evenly balanced in a square format. It wasn’t glossy like the Sheikh Zayed Mosque in Abu Dhabi or seemly rich in history like the Al – Azhar Mosque in Cairo, Egypt. Instead, it was much more discreet and subdued with minimal flair. It was interesting as it was constructed of the red brick that was so typically common around the historic buildings of India.
There seemed to be quite a few domestic Indian tourists visiting, more so than there were worshippers. Many children were curious and followed MrsWT73 around thanks to her light Ukrainian skin. And so, the celebrity treatment started. . .
MrsWT73 should have started charging 500 Rupees a photo but we missed out on that opportunity. She had participated in no less than a dozen impromptu photo sessions throughout India by the time this trip was over. I actually think she enjoyed all of them. After Jama Masjid, we stepped out into our first taste of the streets of the real New Delhi. With no protection from fenced walls or other hotel security guards, we got our taste of the first real street life. It seems everything goes here and everything is hauled around on wagons or pedi-cabs. My job working away at my computer seemed pretty mundane compared to the back breaking work that these guys had to do to earn a dollar.