Supreme Leaders, Sheikhs and Sultans; Three weeks across Iran, UAE and Oman.(EY/EK F)
Mar 2, 2015, 7:40 pm
#31
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Join Date: Jan 2009
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Posts: 581
Tehran, Iran: Day 2
Let’s just start by saying the snooze button has not been sanctioned within Iran and still works! After about 4-5 bouts with my alarm I finally rose and although it was still dark, hardly 40F (5C) and sprinkling I still decided it was a good idea to go for a run. Nearly everyone and their brother can say then have been to Iran, but how many have run a 5K through Tehran? I’m thinking based on the looks I received in the process, none. Clad in my EY pajamas I found a nice route around the museums along Khomeini Street and all was well until the final 500m. I noticed an open gateway and figured I could do a quick loop within the courtyard before finishing at the hotel. Just as soon as I had entered, I noticed the gate closing behind me and I stopped on a dime and bolted back toward the entry barely making it out, all while a kind Iranian man shouted inspiration as he chased after!
Find the MFA!
After the fact while looking at my route map I determined I had accidently entered a gated compound of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MFA). My bad!
With that out of the way I cleaned up and headed to the wonderful Ferdowsi breakfast to power up for another full day and my first IR flight to Shiraz.
Addicted to Halva
The original plan had been to visit the museums we missed yesterday and then Azadi Tower on the way to Mehrabad, but I had indicated I wanted to go back north and see Sa’dabad Palace. Luckily my guide, Arya, agreed and off we went for the hour drive to the complex made famous by the Pahlavi Dynasty, although parts were first built and inhabited by the Qajar Dynasty. It also currently is home to President Hassan Rouhani, which explains why it took three tries to find an entry gate to access the other buildings.
Along the way we passed through Ferdowsi Square, a site of a 2009 Green Movement rally, which supported presidential candidate Mir Hossein Mousavi.
Ferdowsi Square
Modern highways
Not modern buses
Once we found an unrestricted entry, we hopped out of the car, purchased tickets for the palaces we wanted to see and began a refreshing walk near the base of the Alborz Mountains on this brisk February morning. There was hardly a tourist in site, but energetic students filled the complex.
Sa’dabad Entrance
Field trip
Our first stop, just up the hill, offered majestic views over the rest of the complex and Tehran and was home to Reza Shah. Its rare green stones were mined nearby in Zanjān, Iran. The palace, filled with historical artifacts purchased throughout Europe, is best known for its mirror hall. When Mohammad Reza Shah ruled, he renamed it Shahvand Palace, only to have it renamed just 10 years later after the Revolution to its current name, Green Palace.
Walk up the hill to the Green Palace
City view
Green Palace
Beautiful stones
Mountain views
Of course, no photos allowed inside.
Next-door was an exhibit for the Omidvar Brothers, who during the 1950’s and 1960’s left Tehran with a camera and traveled across 90 countries. Their story is relatively unknown outside of Iran but within, they are national heroes. For any adventurous traveler their story (told through many photos) is fascinating beyond words.
Omidvar brothers country list
The map
Car and bike used across Africa
Our final stop in Sa’dabad would be the White House. Currently a National Museum, it was the residence of Mohammad Reza Shah (known as The Shah) until the Iranian Revolution in 1979. In addition to being packed with school children, it was full of lavishly decorated rooms.
Iranian White House
School Children
The Shah’s office
Bedroom with modern flat screen
Very eager English speaking Iranian students
Palace overview
Having seen enough royal palaces for the day, we headed to lunch where I enjoyed an Iranian beer (read: lemonade) with some lentil soup and chicken kabab.
Iranian Kinkos
Beer/Lemonade
Chelow Kebab
Right hand for smoking; left hand for garnishing the plate
On our way out of the restaurant was a common site around Iran. Rather than beg, the needy would sell items of little use (batteries, sponges, a ride on the ole’ scale) and kind passers by (my guide) would offer money in exchange for the product they didn’t need. Very heart warming to see.
Quick stop at Walgreens for some batteries
With just a few hours remaining till our journey on an Iranian flying coffin (joke) we made our way toward Azadi Tower. Built in 1971 by the Shah “freedom tower’ has seen its share of political rallies including the 1979 Revolution and the 2009 Green Movement. While we were there, set up was underway for their Revolution Day celebration just 3 days later. It’s arguably the most recognizable landmark of Tehran and is certainly a unique structure. While our taxi driver pulled over and let us out to explore for 30 minutes he fell asleep and was ticketed ~$20 for parking in a no parking zone. My guide was not pleased with the police and pleaded with them while playing the tourist card.
Azadi Tower, Milad Tower and the Alborz Mountains.
Azadi Tower
Revolution Day rally setup
Arya and Azadi Tower
Top of Azadi
Azadi Tower
Milad Tower
With that last photo we were off to the airport for our flight to Shiraz. Likely the most popular sight across the country is the photos of the Supreme Leaders.
BSLF (Best Supreme Leaders Forever)
Another very common sight is memorials to the martyrs of the Iran/Iraq war of the 1980’s. Each city honored their fallen heroes in different ways, but photos and statues were very regular occurrences.
Martyr
Once at Mehrabad, our taxi driver was very pleased when my guide covered the cost of his parking ticket.
Happy Cabby
We were flying out of T2 today and just a quick 5 minute queue for check-in later and we had our boarding passes and my bag checked. While I normally have my own style of flying and navigating an airport I decided to just succumb to my guide’s routine and see how things work. After checking in he decided he didn’t want to go airside but rather sit landside till just before the flight. Security had separate halls for men and women. Once through, our gate wasn’t listed on our boarding pass and he insisted on sitting just past security and waiting for a PA announcement to alert us which gate would be ours. It never came!
Maybe 10 minutes before departure he decided maybe he should go read the monitor and realized boarding was just concluding and we must run to our gate. Imagine that! In the end we had a remote stand so it spared us standing on a bus all afternoon, but I did find the series of events stubbornly risky.
While we were airside I tried to get a few photos of some unusual aircraft but it was much like the zoo on a cold rainy day where all the exotic animals you actually want to see are out of site enjoying time with the trainer. Also of note I was fascinated by the cost of this flight. This 90 minute flight cost a mere 1.65M IRR (~$45).
IR flight 232
Mehrabad, Iran (THR) to Shiraz, Iran (SYZ)
Depart 15:55, Arrive 17:30 (+1), Time 1:35
A320, Seat 10E
Mehrabad Terminal 2
Departures
IR 232
THR landside
Iran Air boarding pass
Of note, my guide did express displeasure for IR claiming they are never on time and offer the worst flights. He praised EP (Iran Aseman) and W5 (Mahan). Then again that could be the equivalence of me being loyal to AA while my brother loves DL and loathes AA.
Kish Air, a leading inspiration for this trip
Once on the bus we drove for about 3 hours passing all the exotic planes but after reading a bit about them it seems most were like a dinosaur exhibit at the zoo and no longer in existence/use. Countless planes were sitting in, near and sometimes just on the grass near the taxi way.
IR Bus
Let’s play what’s newer; the plane or car?
For example, this is IR’s original 747-SP they took delivery of in 1976 and it has been listed as stored since June of 2014. Seems like a good place to store it…
IR EP-IAA
Iran Aseman
Going to need a new hanger
Eventually we reached our plane and boarded a very full flight.
Normal economy legroom
IFE
Pre-flight candy
In-flight snack box
In-flight snack
Uneventful flight, the woman next to me was friendly enough, and mentioned her two children were pursuing PHDs at Purdue and Buffalo. Upon landing I claimed my bag at baggage claim but wasn’t allowed to leave until I showed the bag claim tag matching my bag. That was a first for me.
Shiraz International Airport
Took a taxi to my hotel (operated by my tour agency). The Niayesh Boutique Hotel was a stark contrast to my Tehran hotel and even more so to the hotels I would enjoy in DXB and AUH. That being said, I was tired enough and once I figured how to prevent the entire courtyard from peering in my room I just wanted some dinner and sleep. I ended up having a nice ghormeh sabzi and a beer along with two guys from Munich and Oslo.
Niayesh Boutique Hotel
Courtyard view of my room
Curtains closed!
Ghormeh sabzi
Find the MFA!
After the fact while looking at my route map I determined I had accidently entered a gated compound of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs (MFA). My bad!
With that out of the way I cleaned up and headed to the wonderful Ferdowsi breakfast to power up for another full day and my first IR flight to Shiraz.
Addicted to Halva
The original plan had been to visit the museums we missed yesterday and then Azadi Tower on the way to Mehrabad, but I had indicated I wanted to go back north and see Sa’dabad Palace. Luckily my guide, Arya, agreed and off we went for the hour drive to the complex made famous by the Pahlavi Dynasty, although parts were first built and inhabited by the Qajar Dynasty. It also currently is home to President Hassan Rouhani, which explains why it took three tries to find an entry gate to access the other buildings.
Along the way we passed through Ferdowsi Square, a site of a 2009 Green Movement rally, which supported presidential candidate Mir Hossein Mousavi.
Ferdowsi Square
Modern highways
Not modern buses
Once we found an unrestricted entry, we hopped out of the car, purchased tickets for the palaces we wanted to see and began a refreshing walk near the base of the Alborz Mountains on this brisk February morning. There was hardly a tourist in site, but energetic students filled the complex.
Sa’dabad Entrance
Field trip
Our first stop, just up the hill, offered majestic views over the rest of the complex and Tehran and was home to Reza Shah. Its rare green stones were mined nearby in Zanjān, Iran. The palace, filled with historical artifacts purchased throughout Europe, is best known for its mirror hall. When Mohammad Reza Shah ruled, he renamed it Shahvand Palace, only to have it renamed just 10 years later after the Revolution to its current name, Green Palace.
Walk up the hill to the Green Palace
City view
Green Palace
Beautiful stones
Mountain views
Of course, no photos allowed inside.
Next-door was an exhibit for the Omidvar Brothers, who during the 1950’s and 1960’s left Tehran with a camera and traveled across 90 countries. Their story is relatively unknown outside of Iran but within, they are national heroes. For any adventurous traveler their story (told through many photos) is fascinating beyond words.
Omidvar brothers country list
The map
Car and bike used across Africa
Our final stop in Sa’dabad would be the White House. Currently a National Museum, it was the residence of Mohammad Reza Shah (known as The Shah) until the Iranian Revolution in 1979. In addition to being packed with school children, it was full of lavishly decorated rooms.
Iranian White House
School Children
The Shah’s office
Bedroom with modern flat screen
Very eager English speaking Iranian students
Palace overview
Having seen enough royal palaces for the day, we headed to lunch where I enjoyed an Iranian beer (read: lemonade) with some lentil soup and chicken kabab.
Iranian Kinkos
Beer/Lemonade
Chelow Kebab
Right hand for smoking; left hand for garnishing the plate
On our way out of the restaurant was a common site around Iran. Rather than beg, the needy would sell items of little use (batteries, sponges, a ride on the ole’ scale) and kind passers by (my guide) would offer money in exchange for the product they didn’t need. Very heart warming to see.
Quick stop at Walgreens for some batteries
With just a few hours remaining till our journey on an Iranian flying coffin (joke) we made our way toward Azadi Tower. Built in 1971 by the Shah “freedom tower’ has seen its share of political rallies including the 1979 Revolution and the 2009 Green Movement. While we were there, set up was underway for their Revolution Day celebration just 3 days later. It’s arguably the most recognizable landmark of Tehran and is certainly a unique structure. While our taxi driver pulled over and let us out to explore for 30 minutes he fell asleep and was ticketed ~$20 for parking in a no parking zone. My guide was not pleased with the police and pleaded with them while playing the tourist card.
Azadi Tower, Milad Tower and the Alborz Mountains.
Azadi Tower
Revolution Day rally setup
Arya and Azadi Tower
Top of Azadi
Azadi Tower
Milad Tower
With that last photo we were off to the airport for our flight to Shiraz. Likely the most popular sight across the country is the photos of the Supreme Leaders.
BSLF (Best Supreme Leaders Forever)
Another very common sight is memorials to the martyrs of the Iran/Iraq war of the 1980’s. Each city honored their fallen heroes in different ways, but photos and statues were very regular occurrences.
Martyr
Once at Mehrabad, our taxi driver was very pleased when my guide covered the cost of his parking ticket.
Happy Cabby
We were flying out of T2 today and just a quick 5 minute queue for check-in later and we had our boarding passes and my bag checked. While I normally have my own style of flying and navigating an airport I decided to just succumb to my guide’s routine and see how things work. After checking in he decided he didn’t want to go airside but rather sit landside till just before the flight. Security had separate halls for men and women. Once through, our gate wasn’t listed on our boarding pass and he insisted on sitting just past security and waiting for a PA announcement to alert us which gate would be ours. It never came!
Maybe 10 minutes before departure he decided maybe he should go read the monitor and realized boarding was just concluding and we must run to our gate. Imagine that! In the end we had a remote stand so it spared us standing on a bus all afternoon, but I did find the series of events stubbornly risky.
While we were airside I tried to get a few photos of some unusual aircraft but it was much like the zoo on a cold rainy day where all the exotic animals you actually want to see are out of site enjoying time with the trainer. Also of note I was fascinated by the cost of this flight. This 90 minute flight cost a mere 1.65M IRR (~$45).
IR flight 232
Mehrabad, Iran (THR) to Shiraz, Iran (SYZ)
Depart 15:55, Arrive 17:30 (+1), Time 1:35
A320, Seat 10E
Mehrabad Terminal 2
Departures
IR 232
THR landside
Iran Air boarding pass
Of note, my guide did express displeasure for IR claiming they are never on time and offer the worst flights. He praised EP (Iran Aseman) and W5 (Mahan). Then again that could be the equivalence of me being loyal to AA while my brother loves DL and loathes AA.
Kish Air, a leading inspiration for this trip
Once on the bus we drove for about 3 hours passing all the exotic planes but after reading a bit about them it seems most were like a dinosaur exhibit at the zoo and no longer in existence/use. Countless planes were sitting in, near and sometimes just on the grass near the taxi way.
IR Bus
Let’s play what’s newer; the plane or car?
For example, this is IR’s original 747-SP they took delivery of in 1976 and it has been listed as stored since June of 2014. Seems like a good place to store it…
IR EP-IAA
Iran Aseman
Going to need a new hanger
Eventually we reached our plane and boarded a very full flight.
Normal economy legroom
IFE
Pre-flight candy
In-flight snack box
In-flight snack
Uneventful flight, the woman next to me was friendly enough, and mentioned her two children were pursuing PHDs at Purdue and Buffalo. Upon landing I claimed my bag at baggage claim but wasn’t allowed to leave until I showed the bag claim tag matching my bag. That was a first for me.
Shiraz International Airport
Took a taxi to my hotel (operated by my tour agency). The Niayesh Boutique Hotel was a stark contrast to my Tehran hotel and even more so to the hotels I would enjoy in DXB and AUH. That being said, I was tired enough and once I figured how to prevent the entire courtyard from peering in my room I just wanted some dinner and sleep. I ended up having a nice ghormeh sabzi and a beer along with two guys from Munich and Oslo.
Niayesh Boutique Hotel
Courtyard view of my room
Curtains closed!
Ghormeh sabzi
Mar 2, 2015, 7:44 pm
#32
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
It's top 3 for me. Hard to decide between Turkey, Egypt and Iran. Certainly would be easy, just not with a guide! Thanks.
Mar 2, 2015, 11:11 pm
#33
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Dubai
Posts: 3,301
.
Both iconic American drinks have been mainstays for years in one of the Middle East's largest consumer markets with 75 million people. The U.S. Treasury sanctions on Iran give some leeway for food and beverages, allowing The Coca-Cola Co. and PepsiCo to work through non-U.S. subsidiaries to ship their syrup to Iranian bottlers and distributors.
Mar 3, 2015, 12:00 pm
#34
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: SFO
Programs: AS, UA, WN, IHG Diamond Elite, Hyatt Globalist, Hilton Gold, CET 7*
Posts: 3,293
Fascinating report, well done!
You and others may finds this PBS Newshour piece interesting where they were granted rare permission to see inside the former U.S. Embassy in Tehran:
http://www.pbs.org/newshour/updates/...ssy-in-tehran/
You and others may finds this PBS Newshour piece interesting where they were granted rare permission to see inside the former U.S. Embassy in Tehran:
http://www.pbs.org/newshour/updates/...ssy-in-tehran/
Mar 3, 2015, 1:32 pm
#35
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
http://observers.france24.com/conten...-mcdonalds-kfc
Fascinating report, well done!
You and others may finds this PBS Newshour piece interesting where they were granted rare permission to see inside the former U.S. Embassy in Tehran:
http://www.pbs.org/newshour/updates/...ssy-in-tehran/
You and others may finds this PBS Newshour piece interesting where they were granted rare permission to see inside the former U.S. Embassy in Tehran:
http://www.pbs.org/newshour/updates/...ssy-in-tehran/
Mar 3, 2015, 8:29 pm
#37
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: TPA
Programs: AA PLT, HH Gold, FM Prem, SPG gold
Posts: 581
Shiraz, Iran: Day 1
Woke up bright and early to the sound of everyone else eating breakfast and decided to partake as well.
Hotel breakfast
Since Shiraz was the home of my guide he decided to use his personal car this morning as we drove throughout the sites. We began with a visit to Ali Ibn Hamzeh Holy Shrine. This shrine, the burial place of Ali Ibn Hamzeh, the nephew of the 8th Shiite Imam, Imam Reza, was first constructed in the 10th century. Across the Islamic World many shrines exist to pay respect to 11 Shiite Imams. Within Iran there are many other shrines for relatives of the 8th, including in Qom and Reza’s own in Mashhad.
Arya’s car
Ali Ibn Hamzeh Holy Shine
Dome
Holy mirror work!
Close-up of mirror work
The tomb itself with divider for men and women
Individual chapters of the Quran so multiple people can read simultaneously
Arya helping translate the works of Hafez for a local worshiper
Next we paid a visit to Jahan Nama Garden. This historical garden is one of 4 (the others being Eram, Delgosha and Takht) in Shiraz designed in traditional Persian fashion with 4 avenues each containing a pool. Karim Khan-e Zand, founder of the Zand Dynasty, ordered the building of the outside walls and the central Kooshk in the middle of the 18th Century.
Main avenue of Jahan Nama Garden
Flowers
Kooshk
Art class
Overlooking the Garden
After relaxing in the garden it was time for a brief layover at the tomb of the Iranian Poet Saadi Shirazi, more commonly referred to as just Saadi. Since we still had a lot to see today, we decided a quick photo from a distance would do it justice so we could spend more time at the tomb of Hafez.
Saadi complex
Saadi Tomb
Before going to Hafez’ tomb, we went to see the historical gate to the city, Quran Gate. Along the way we stopped at another of the 4 famous Shirazi gardens; Delgosha.
Delgosha Garden
Delgosha Garden building
Saadi Tomb Canal in Delgosha Garden
Drills
Until traffic proved to be too great, Quran Gate was the main entry to the city from the north. Now, just off to the side, it serves as a popular park. During the Zand Dynasty handwritten versions of the Quran were stored inside and provided blessings to all who entered the city via the gate. Just inside the city lies the prestigious Grand Hotel Shiraz.
Quran Gate
Park overlooking Quran Gate
Entering Shiraz via Quran Gate
Park overlooking Quran Gate
Grand Hotel Shiraz
Fourteenth Century Iranian Poet, Khwāja Shams-ud-Dīn Muhammad Hāfez-e Shīrāzī, or Hafez for short, is arguably the most famous Persian Poet and his tomb in Shiraz is a top destination for locals. We spent close to an hour (I’m not sure how!) at this site and not once did the gravestone itself have a moment to itself.
As I mentioned, this was a very popular destination for locals, and a documentary film crew and I had a brief conversation. Once I mentioned I also shoot video for a living the director offered his wife to me and asked me to take her back to America. I politely declined.
Documentary crew
At this point the tourism agency (key2persia) wanted to be paid so we stopped by their office where I met Aliye (who had assisted me throughout the planning process) and paid for my expenses as well as confirmed the changes to allow our day in Yazd the day after next. Outside the office was a rowdy group of teens eager to practice the English and have their photo taken.
Iranian teens
Photo in front of the agency
Aliye
Once my debts were settled it was time to eat! Just around the corner we found a nice local place and enjoyed special lamb kebab along with tahdig, which literally translates to bottom of the pot. After cooking, at the bottom of each pot, a thin layer of rice hardens and forms to the pan. Ours was covered with a tomato paste and was surprisingly good. I also decided to give doogh another shot after a bad memory of it from Turkey.
Special lamb kebab
Tahdig
Tea time
We began our afternoon by exploring the historical Citadel of Karim Khan. Also known as the Arg Karim Khan, it was built mid-18th century during the Zand Dynasty and served as his living quarters. Over the years it was used as the Governor’s seat and even a prison before eventually becoming a museum in the 1970’s.
Karim Khan Citadel
Fort
Orange trees within the citadel
Official Zand Dynasty club meeting
Citadel building
Citadel bathhouse
Just next door we visited the Vakil Mosque, also built by Karim Khan, before making our way to the Vakil Bazar. It is best known for its Zand era minbar carved out of one piece of green marble.
Vakil Mosque and Bazar; side by side
Ceiling tile work
Vakil Mosque courtyard
Prayer area
Minbar
As we entered the Bazar, so too did the next batch of Persian rugs to be sold.
Carpet delivery
Vakil Bazar
Saffron
Copper
Yarn
Stones
Backgammon
As we concluded our shopping experience (a mixture of goods for locals and tourists) Arya took me out for ice cream, but not just any ice cream. Actually not ice cream at all, but faloodeh. Made of starch and soaked in a sugar and rose water syrup (optionally topped with lemon juice) it’s really refreshing and crisp.
Faloodeh
Fully refreshed we pushed on for a bit of a hike to our final stop for the day,
Shah e Cheragh Mosque (and monument). In addition to the mosque there is a memorial for the brothers Ahmad and Muhammad who took refuge in Shiraz during the third Caliphate (Abbasid). The original construction took place in the early 12th Century by the Zengid Dynasty. Cameras and bags are not permitted in, but camera phones are widely encouraged; even of prayer.
Shah e Cheragh complex
Tomb of Ahmad and Muhammad
Shah e Cheragh Mosque
Inside of Shah e Cheragh
Shah e Cheragh courtyard
Arya pointed out some subtle differences between Sunnis and Shiites in their prayer rituals and we people watched for a bit before heading back to the hotel as the sun set. For dinner I enjoyed another form of Persian stew, dizi. This dish, served in a clay pot, is mostly mutton, kidney beans and chickpeas. A pestle is provided to mash the beans to a liquid to pour into your bowl (already containing the broth from cooking) and enjoy with bread (naan). It is also commonly called Abgoosht, but no matter the name, it’s good.
Dizi demonstration
Dizi
After dinner I met up with the German fellow from the night before for a beer and shisha. We began discussing Iranian politics and policies until we realized the men sitting directly behind us were all soldiers on holiday in Shiraz. Likely they would have agreed with us, but we didn’t feel like finding out.
HeyDay beer
Shisha with the Iranian soldiers
Hotel breakfast
Since Shiraz was the home of my guide he decided to use his personal car this morning as we drove throughout the sites. We began with a visit to Ali Ibn Hamzeh Holy Shrine. This shrine, the burial place of Ali Ibn Hamzeh, the nephew of the 8th Shiite Imam, Imam Reza, was first constructed in the 10th century. Across the Islamic World many shrines exist to pay respect to 11 Shiite Imams. Within Iran there are many other shrines for relatives of the 8th, including in Qom and Reza’s own in Mashhad.
Arya’s car
Ali Ibn Hamzeh Holy Shine
Dome
Holy mirror work!
Close-up of mirror work
The tomb itself with divider for men and women
Individual chapters of the Quran so multiple people can read simultaneously
Arya helping translate the works of Hafez for a local worshiper
Next we paid a visit to Jahan Nama Garden. This historical garden is one of 4 (the others being Eram, Delgosha and Takht) in Shiraz designed in traditional Persian fashion with 4 avenues each containing a pool. Karim Khan-e Zand, founder of the Zand Dynasty, ordered the building of the outside walls and the central Kooshk in the middle of the 18th Century.
Main avenue of Jahan Nama Garden
Flowers
Kooshk
Art class
Overlooking the Garden
After relaxing in the garden it was time for a brief layover at the tomb of the Iranian Poet Saadi Shirazi, more commonly referred to as just Saadi. Since we still had a lot to see today, we decided a quick photo from a distance would do it justice so we could spend more time at the tomb of Hafez.
Saadi complex
Saadi Tomb
Before going to Hafez’ tomb, we went to see the historical gate to the city, Quran Gate. Along the way we stopped at another of the 4 famous Shirazi gardens; Delgosha.
Delgosha Garden
Delgosha Garden building
Saadi Tomb Canal in Delgosha Garden
Drills
Until traffic proved to be too great, Quran Gate was the main entry to the city from the north. Now, just off to the side, it serves as a popular park. During the Zand Dynasty handwritten versions of the Quran were stored inside and provided blessings to all who entered the city via the gate. Just inside the city lies the prestigious Grand Hotel Shiraz.
Quran Gate
Park overlooking Quran Gate
Entering Shiraz via Quran Gate
Park overlooking Quran Gate
Grand Hotel Shiraz
Fourteenth Century Iranian Poet, Khwāja Shams-ud-Dīn Muhammad Hāfez-e Shīrāzī, or Hafez for short, is arguably the most famous Persian Poet and his tomb in Shiraz is a top destination for locals. We spent close to an hour (I’m not sure how!) at this site and not once did the gravestone itself have a moment to itself.
As I mentioned, this was a very popular destination for locals, and a documentary film crew and I had a brief conversation. Once I mentioned I also shoot video for a living the director offered his wife to me and asked me to take her back to America. I politely declined.
Documentary crew
At this point the tourism agency (key2persia) wanted to be paid so we stopped by their office where I met Aliye (who had assisted me throughout the planning process) and paid for my expenses as well as confirmed the changes to allow our day in Yazd the day after next. Outside the office was a rowdy group of teens eager to practice the English and have their photo taken.
Iranian teens
Photo in front of the agency
Aliye
Once my debts were settled it was time to eat! Just around the corner we found a nice local place and enjoyed special lamb kebab along with tahdig, which literally translates to bottom of the pot. After cooking, at the bottom of each pot, a thin layer of rice hardens and forms to the pan. Ours was covered with a tomato paste and was surprisingly good. I also decided to give doogh another shot after a bad memory of it from Turkey.
Special lamb kebab
Tahdig
Tea time
We began our afternoon by exploring the historical Citadel of Karim Khan. Also known as the Arg Karim Khan, it was built mid-18th century during the Zand Dynasty and served as his living quarters. Over the years it was used as the Governor’s seat and even a prison before eventually becoming a museum in the 1970’s.
Karim Khan Citadel
Fort
Orange trees within the citadel
Official Zand Dynasty club meeting
Citadel building
Citadel bathhouse
Just next door we visited the Vakil Mosque, also built by Karim Khan, before making our way to the Vakil Bazar. It is best known for its Zand era minbar carved out of one piece of green marble.
Vakil Mosque and Bazar; side by side
Ceiling tile work
Vakil Mosque courtyard
Prayer area
Minbar
As we entered the Bazar, so too did the next batch of Persian rugs to be sold.
Carpet delivery
Vakil Bazar
Saffron
Copper
Yarn
Stones
Backgammon
As we concluded our shopping experience (a mixture of goods for locals and tourists) Arya took me out for ice cream, but not just any ice cream. Actually not ice cream at all, but faloodeh. Made of starch and soaked in a sugar and rose water syrup (optionally topped with lemon juice) it’s really refreshing and crisp.
Faloodeh
Fully refreshed we pushed on for a bit of a hike to our final stop for the day,
Shah e Cheragh Mosque (and monument). In addition to the mosque there is a memorial for the brothers Ahmad and Muhammad who took refuge in Shiraz during the third Caliphate (Abbasid). The original construction took place in the early 12th Century by the Zengid Dynasty. Cameras and bags are not permitted in, but camera phones are widely encouraged; even of prayer.
Shah e Cheragh complex
Tomb of Ahmad and Muhammad
Shah e Cheragh Mosque
Inside of Shah e Cheragh
Shah e Cheragh courtyard
Arya pointed out some subtle differences between Sunnis and Shiites in their prayer rituals and we people watched for a bit before heading back to the hotel as the sun set. For dinner I enjoyed another form of Persian stew, dizi. This dish, served in a clay pot, is mostly mutton, kidney beans and chickpeas. A pestle is provided to mash the beans to a liquid to pour into your bowl (already containing the broth from cooking) and enjoy with bread (naan). It is also commonly called Abgoosht, but no matter the name, it’s good.
Dizi demonstration
Dizi
After dinner I met up with the German fellow from the night before for a beer and shisha. We began discussing Iranian politics and policies until we realized the men sitting directly behind us were all soldiers on holiday in Shiraz. Likely they would have agreed with us, but we didn’t feel like finding out.
HeyDay beer
Shisha with the Iranian soldiers
Mar 3, 2015, 8:31 pm
#38
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Mar 3, 2015, 9:33 pm
#39
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Wow - awesome so far.
I'm amazed at how liberal, or how many photographs you were able to take. I would have thought that they would have been a bit more limiting in what you would be able to take photographs of.
I'm amazed at how liberal, or how many photographs you were able to take. I would have thought that they would have been a bit more limiting in what you would be able to take photographs of.
Mar 3, 2015, 10:58 pm
#40
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This TR is absolutely amazing - I can't wait to have the time for a proper trip to Iran like you did...and trust me I'll have lots of questions!
Thanks so much for taking the time to share!
Thanks so much for taking the time to share!
Mar 4, 2015, 8:08 pm
#44
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Shiraz, Iran: Day 2 (Persepolis and Necropolis)
Slept in a wee bit (9am) and got packed up before breakfast for our ride to Yazd via Persepolis and the other historical sites along the way. Normally when visiting these sites on a day trip out of Shiraz you would start with the farthest and work your way back to the city, but since we were not returning, we visited along our northward journey.
Last Shirazi breakfast
Coca Cola truck
Approaching Persepolis
Persepolis, the ancient city and capital of the Achaemenid Empire, truly is the most historic site within Iran. Beginning around 550 BC numerous Kings played a roll in building the city over the next 200 years. Cyrus the Great is often credited with founding the city while Darius I and his son Xerxes I are recognized for contributing to the constructions still standing today. At the fall of the Achaemenid Empire, around 330 BC, it is believed Alexander the Great burned and looted the city in revenge for Xerxes having destroyed the city of Athens just 150 years earlier.
Upon entry, the Grand Staircase awaits visitors and guides you toward the first entry, the Gate of Nations.
Grand Staircase
Gate of Nations
Lamassus
Captain John Malcolm was here
Along our explorations we saw Apadana Hall (Great Palace of Xerxes) and 100 Columns Palace before exiting out through the Gate of Nations.
Apadana Hall
Apadana Hall
Apadana Hall
Zoroastrianism (Persia’s national religion pre-Islam) Faravahar symbol
Persian soldier relief
Relief depicting Nowruz (Persian New Year) with the lion (Sun) overtaking the bull (Moon)
Undercover per the request of UNESCO for preservation
100 Column Palace
100 Column Palace
Solo Achaemenid griffin, suggesting more were to be made for an unfinished gate, or after one, design was discontinued
Entire Gate of Nations
Exiting the Gate of Nations
Just up the road was Naqsh-e Rustam, the ancient necropolis of the Achaemenid Kings. The tombs belong to Darius I the Great, Xerxes I, Atraxerxes I and Darius II from left to right. Other reliefs beneath the tombs date to the Sasanian Empire (the last pre-Islamic Persian Dynasty). The most recognized of the Sasanian reliefs depicts Shapur I celebrating victory over multiple Roman Emperors. In the foreground is a Zoroastrian fire alter known as Ka'ba-ye Zartosht.
Naqsh-e Rustam
Tombs of Darius I, Xerxes I, Atraxerxes I
Tomb of Xerxes I
Sasanian relief
Ka'ba-ye Zartosht
After a great history lesson our driver rewarded us with scalding hot tea which he and my guide proceeded to drink in seconds while I nursed it hoping to prevent third degree burns to my esophagus. Off to have lunch in a traditional home and see the tomb of Cyrus the Great.
Hot tea!
Landscape along the way
Traditional home for lunch
Dining room
Pot of lentil soup
Lamb and rice
Dear tourist, please read and believe this message written in English for your convenience
Tomb of Cyrus the Great at Pasargadae
Other than the tomb of Cyrus the Great, possibly the most respected King in over 2500 years of Persian history, there wasn’t much else to see and we began our drive toward Yazd. Just in time. For the next two hours we were caught in a dust storm and could hardly see 100 meters ahead. At least Arya provided snacks.
Dusty and windy
Pistachios
Upon arrival to Yazd my guide was very zealous to show me Eagle Mountain and a Zoroastrian Silence Tower, or Dakhmeh. These towers were used to decontaminate the dead. Bodies would be piled up for the birds to ravage the meat, leaving only bone. Once complete the bones could be buried. By the 1970’s enough locals complained about the rancid smell and this process was banned.
Eagle Mountain
Yazd Dakhmeh
With 10 minutes to spare before closing we arrived at the Zoroastrian Fire Temple (they would be closed the next day for Revolution Day) and snapped a few photos. Their fire has been burning constantly since the late 5th century. The fire is certified as Atash Bahram, meaning it’s made of 16 really pure sources of fire.
Yazd Atashkadeh, fire temple
Faravahar
Really old fire
After a long day of driving I was ready for some dinner so we checked into the Abid Almamalek Hotel and headed to one of the many KFC knockoffs. At check in I was asked if they could take my photo for Facebook. Sure, why not. Also, we got to test drive and pick which room we wanted. I was content with the first offering, but my guide suggested I look at more so I settled on the second choice.
Hotel room
Hotel courtyard
Chicken joint
For a whopping 135,000 IRR ($3.85) I ordered their chicken thigh combo. Thirty minutes later our fast food was served.
Chicken thigh meal
On the way back to the hotel my guide suggested I try some sweets at the candy shop and I ended up buying 3 boxes of ghotab, a deep fried almond pastry covered in powder sugar. Ghotab is what Yazd is best known for; food wise at least.
Confectionary shop
Not being tired, I ended up going back out into the city to explore and buy some more souvenirs (food) to take home. Knowing Isfahan is known for its gaz, I resisted buying, but wanted to try and for 500 IRR (~$.014) I walked away with 6 pieces. Really I was just looking for a way to get some Iranian coins to take back. This was the only time I was able to acquire them.
Vegetables
Chicken feet
Gaz sample
Shops started closing so I made one last stop to buy two beers, a bag of Cheetos and some tak tak bars for a total of 48,000 IRR ($1.37). However, on the way back I enjoyed a fresh pomegranate juice and snapped some night photos of the Amir Chakhmaq Complex under the lights.
Tak Tak bar
Pomegranate juice
Amir Chakhmaq Complex
Yazd windcatcher
Last Shirazi breakfast
Coca Cola truck
Approaching Persepolis
Persepolis, the ancient city and capital of the Achaemenid Empire, truly is the most historic site within Iran. Beginning around 550 BC numerous Kings played a roll in building the city over the next 200 years. Cyrus the Great is often credited with founding the city while Darius I and his son Xerxes I are recognized for contributing to the constructions still standing today. At the fall of the Achaemenid Empire, around 330 BC, it is believed Alexander the Great burned and looted the city in revenge for Xerxes having destroyed the city of Athens just 150 years earlier.
Upon entry, the Grand Staircase awaits visitors and guides you toward the first entry, the Gate of Nations.
Grand Staircase
Gate of Nations
Lamassus
Captain John Malcolm was here
Along our explorations we saw Apadana Hall (Great Palace of Xerxes) and 100 Columns Palace before exiting out through the Gate of Nations.
Apadana Hall
Apadana Hall
Apadana Hall
Zoroastrianism (Persia’s national religion pre-Islam) Faravahar symbol
Persian soldier relief
Relief depicting Nowruz (Persian New Year) with the lion (Sun) overtaking the bull (Moon)
Undercover per the request of UNESCO for preservation
100 Column Palace
100 Column Palace
Solo Achaemenid griffin, suggesting more were to be made for an unfinished gate, or after one, design was discontinued
Entire Gate of Nations
Exiting the Gate of Nations
Just up the road was Naqsh-e Rustam, the ancient necropolis of the Achaemenid Kings. The tombs belong to Darius I the Great, Xerxes I, Atraxerxes I and Darius II from left to right. Other reliefs beneath the tombs date to the Sasanian Empire (the last pre-Islamic Persian Dynasty). The most recognized of the Sasanian reliefs depicts Shapur I celebrating victory over multiple Roman Emperors. In the foreground is a Zoroastrian fire alter known as Ka'ba-ye Zartosht.
Naqsh-e Rustam
Tombs of Darius I, Xerxes I, Atraxerxes I
Tomb of Xerxes I
Sasanian relief
Ka'ba-ye Zartosht
After a great history lesson our driver rewarded us with scalding hot tea which he and my guide proceeded to drink in seconds while I nursed it hoping to prevent third degree burns to my esophagus. Off to have lunch in a traditional home and see the tomb of Cyrus the Great.
Hot tea!
Landscape along the way
Traditional home for lunch
Dining room
Pot of lentil soup
Lamb and rice
Dear tourist, please read and believe this message written in English for your convenience
Tomb of Cyrus the Great at Pasargadae
Other than the tomb of Cyrus the Great, possibly the most respected King in over 2500 years of Persian history, there wasn’t much else to see and we began our drive toward Yazd. Just in time. For the next two hours we were caught in a dust storm and could hardly see 100 meters ahead. At least Arya provided snacks.
Dusty and windy
Pistachios
Upon arrival to Yazd my guide was very zealous to show me Eagle Mountain and a Zoroastrian Silence Tower, or Dakhmeh. These towers were used to decontaminate the dead. Bodies would be piled up for the birds to ravage the meat, leaving only bone. Once complete the bones could be buried. By the 1970’s enough locals complained about the rancid smell and this process was banned.
Eagle Mountain
Yazd Dakhmeh
With 10 minutes to spare before closing we arrived at the Zoroastrian Fire Temple (they would be closed the next day for Revolution Day) and snapped a few photos. Their fire has been burning constantly since the late 5th century. The fire is certified as Atash Bahram, meaning it’s made of 16 really pure sources of fire.
Yazd Atashkadeh, fire temple
Faravahar
Really old fire
After a long day of driving I was ready for some dinner so we checked into the Abid Almamalek Hotel and headed to one of the many KFC knockoffs. At check in I was asked if they could take my photo for Facebook. Sure, why not. Also, we got to test drive and pick which room we wanted. I was content with the first offering, but my guide suggested I look at more so I settled on the second choice.
Hotel room
Hotel courtyard
Chicken joint
For a whopping 135,000 IRR ($3.85) I ordered their chicken thigh combo. Thirty minutes later our fast food was served.
Chicken thigh meal
On the way back to the hotel my guide suggested I try some sweets at the candy shop and I ended up buying 3 boxes of ghotab, a deep fried almond pastry covered in powder sugar. Ghotab is what Yazd is best known for; food wise at least.
Confectionary shop
Not being tired, I ended up going back out into the city to explore and buy some more souvenirs (food) to take home. Knowing Isfahan is known for its gaz, I resisted buying, but wanted to try and for 500 IRR (~$.014) I walked away with 6 pieces. Really I was just looking for a way to get some Iranian coins to take back. This was the only time I was able to acquire them.
Vegetables
Chicken feet
Gaz sample
Shops started closing so I made one last stop to buy two beers, a bag of Cheetos and some tak tak bars for a total of 48,000 IRR ($1.37). However, on the way back I enjoyed a fresh pomegranate juice and snapped some night photos of the Amir Chakhmaq Complex under the lights.
Tak Tak bar
Pomegranate juice
Amir Chakhmaq Complex
Yazd windcatcher