DL17

Thanks for this awesome trip report.

I'm also from Iran and really enjoyed looking at your TR. I also went to Tehran for vacation in January and when I get a chance later on I'll post some of my pix on that.

The only small issue with tour agencies in Iran is that they only dedicate 1 or 2 days to Tehran and only take people to the Grand bazaar and some palaces but Tehran is much much more than that. Although those are interesting places for sure but most of its attractions are located at the northern half of the city, which is a huge area. It has so many nice and fun shopping streets, beautiful and very nicely designed parks, museums, shopping malls, coffee shops and restos where locals hang out and many nice squares that are great to people watch and the list goes on. If someone would like to see the main sights and fun parts of Tehran it takes about at least 8-10 days as each neighborhood in Tehran has its own city centre and main street.

Thanks for the lovely report and look forward to see the rest

zcat18

Wonderful report--thanks so much for sharing your experiences in a place that I will never be able to visit.

rivlinm

With just a partial day in Yazd before we would have to catch our VIP bus to Isfahan we got started early with breakfast and headed back toward Amir Chakhmaq where the Revolution Day festivities were just getting underway. In the planning process I deliberately avoided any Iranian national holidays, such as Nowruz, but somehow overlooked February 11. It’s a bit of a crap shoot with what is shut (many government agencies) and what just opens later in the day. Other than the Yazd water museum we didn’t miss out on anything, so I’m not sure I missed out on anything…


Yazd cookies with Yazd breakfast


March for Revolution Day


Revolution Day breakfast in the streets


Yazd Water Museum; closed for Revolution Day


Iranian patriotism


Starting at a young age

From a distance things seemed strictly patriotic, but once I neared, the signs and banners told a much different story. Without rushing to conclusions I’ll just share a collection of photos and let them do the talking.


Maybe today wasn’t the best day to wear my Uncle Sam costume


Children nearing the rally


Old man


Amir Chakhmaq Complex


Sharing is caring


Face painting


Teens observing from a distance


Flag waving


Girl’s choir performing


Standing strong


Trilingual


Video, or it didn’t happen!


Fighting over banner supremacy

Many conclusions could be drawn from this morning’s observations and without getting political the thing that stood out to me was the demographic of individuals participating. Most seemed to fall in the 10 and under range or 60 and up. Not exactly a top demographic.

I should note the mood was incredibly festive and everyone was cheerful throughout. Also, considering I am American and was surrounded by signs wishing the demise of the U.S.A., I never felt anxious or at risk of being harassed. Interesting experience.

As we moved on to see the true treasures of Yazd we came across a gentleman with a rather explicit message in mind.


Flag on a leash


Does Twitter, YouTube, Facebook etc. work?

Our first stop on our walking tour of Yazd was Hazireh Mohammedia Mosque.


Hazireh Mohammedia Mosque portal


Hazireh Mohammedia Mosque

Next we came across the main attraction of Yazd, at least mosque wise. Jame Mosque, built in the 12th century, is known for having the tallest entry portal of any mosque in Iran and among the tallest minarets.


Jame Mosque (Yazd) portal and minarets


Fieldtrip


Jame Mosque Iwan


Tilework


Inner dome


Archway to Mihrab

Right beside Jame Mosque was an entry to the Old City with shops and homes nestled within the walls. Being revolution day and still rather early in the morning, hardly anyone was around and even fewer shops were open.


Streets of the Old City


Biking through the Old City


Old City windcatchers and park


Road construction


Little giant ladder

Before turning back for lunch we relaxed in a park and enjoyed the sites of the shrine of Davazadeh Imam. Literally, 12 Imam Tomb, this 11th century structure contains the names of the 12 Shiite Imams, although none are buried there.


Shrine of Davazadeh Imam


Long way from home


Credit cards accepted!

Lunch, at the Silk Road Hotel, was tas kabab e shotor, or camel meat stew. The meat was a bit tough, but I enjoyed it.


Camel meat stew


Iranian rice topped with barberries

After lunch the hotel (not ours) was kind enough to offer a ride to the bus station for our ride to Isfahan. The bus was really comfortable, seating about 25 in a 1-2 configuration. The seats could be compared to an old business class seat. Not quite lie flat. Snacks were served before departure and water was available. About 4 hours in, they began blaring a Persian movie until the DVD froze and remained paused for the remainder of the trip. I believe the cost to hire a driver would have been ~$50, the VIP bus is ~$5-10 and normal bus would be ~$3.


Motor bike


VIP bus to Isfahan


Inside the VIP bus


Snackbox with a geography lesson

About 6 hours later, after a taxi from the bus station, we arrived at the Setareh Hotel in Isfahan.


Setareh Hotel


~$30 a night


Junior Suite?

Even though it was suggested I not leave the hotel without Arya, due to a larger police presence in Isfahan, I didn’t listen. Since the hotel was just next to Naqsh-e Jahan Square I wandered down that way, sampling food as I went. I tried to take some photos of the square and its mosques under moonlight but between the strong winds and construction crews dismantling the Revolution Day structures I wasn’t having good luck. We would see each of these sites in daylight over the next two days anyway.


”Sandwich”


KFC


Serving takeout halim bademjan, eggplant, to the long line of locals


Dine in halim bademjan


Delicious fereni, a sweet Isfahani dessert


Isfahan Bazar


Handicraft


Imam Square


Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque


Imam Khomeini Mosque


Imam Khomeini Mosque from across Imam Square


Snapping a photo of Imam Khomeini Mosque

nzed

Fantastic report and great photos. Iran is now on my must-travel list.

AMRivlin

What a trip report! I have been waiting for days? weeks? to get into the juicy details of your experience. Iran does look very safe and mostly clean, although the assorted photos of ladders you have posted concern me greatly. Thank you for the rich detail and names of past leaders/rulers/conquerors.

Azadi tower looks pretty special as an iconic location, I wonder if there was more to it? An elevator such as the JNEM offers?

I must say, at this point, I am am a bit disappointed that the posts on Iran are almost complete as I wish these would continue, much like a good HoC or BB binge session. In fact I am glad I was able to read up to this point all at once, with a few glasses of red flavored grapes.

(For those that contest India as a more dangerous alternative), while I have not been to Iran, I have been to India on multiple occasions to numerous cities and have traveled with careless abandon. Perhaps ymmv, but I actually draw many similarities in experience, although Iran definitely takes the cake on mirror layout.

Unless we have another sibling I am unfamiliar with, this statement is a pure falsehood. I have the proud distinction of having never set foot on DL or NW metal, ever. While AA doesn't always serve my destinations, I find them to be the most poised to get my business when the Middle East trio, Asian twins or the Deutsch lone child don't connect my city pairs. I would also urge you to be careful with your wanton journalism, as we all know how easy it would be to fictionalize one's journey. In fact I am pretty sure Brian already did this trip.

in Isfahan, Iran.

I also commend you on your detail and tenacity in preparing this. I have had lofty aspirations to generate trip reports of such grandeur, but usually quit at the point of image categorization.

While rivlinm was in Iran, Steve Inskeep of NPR was following a similar trek.
Not meant to take anything from this rich trip report, I would urge those now fascinated as I have become with the IRoI to follow this 4 part series, starting here: http://www.npr.org/blogs/parallels/2...reign-tourists

Lastly, why are IR's planes painted with English slogans (That Ohio State would be proud of), when they fly to 1 English speaking destination (LHR) of 80 others?

DL17

As I mentioned in my post above I am from Iran and the pictures you have of Down with USA or Israel gives the wrong impression of Iran that has always been on mind of people of the world. People of other countries do not know the real reason behind these protest and rallies which is:

These young kids you see and the people who participate in these protests are forced by the government to do so. Some schools require their students to participate as this is the order coming from the government. Also the rest of the adults you see in these images mostly work for government agencies or their works or life are somehow tied to the government therefore they have to be present in these protests otherwise they lose their jobs or lose their benefits. There are also some poor people that the government pays them to come from villages and small town of Iran with bus to participate in these events in main cities so that it looks more crowded as ordinary Iranian would not attend these non sense protest.So all these non-sense revolution day propaganda are fully monitored by the government and is their order otherwise there would not be anyone participating in these protests. I lived in Tehran for 12 years and never knew anyone going to these protests on the revolution day and all who went either are government workers that have to be there or are government guards and secret agents or school kids forced to attend these rallies.

Also the guy in the picture below is the plain clothes guards of the government and they usually dress this way. They are very hated by people and these guys usually are the ones who arrest people in any protests against the government of Iran. Iran is ruled by very powerful dictators and if anyone protests them they arrest and execute them. That’s why people of Iran refrain from getting involved in politics and or any protest against the government. Normal people's lives are very disconnected from the government.

rivlinm

I expected more no photo zones, but over the entire trip there were only two places I was asked not to take photos (not including museums). I guess I am ready to apply for my Sudanese photo permit.

Well worth the extra effort to get to the mainland, but a traveler like you will find it too easy!

Thanks! I wasn't blown away by EY, but I'll get to that in the conclusion.

As I'm sure you know, photos don't even begin to do it justice.

&

Thanks! My pleasure.

AGREE!!! I had to nearly fight to spend as much time in Tehran as I did. I loved the big city. The north certainly seems to be where the life is! Next time I go back I would stay 3-4 days and explore extensively from a local perspective rather than go palace hopping.

Never say never! Many would have thought the same about USSR, Cambodia, Vietnam, Myanmar, Oman and many others...But I feel for you and am glad you have enjoyed.

I drank the same kool aid!

Glad you enjoyed Bro.

I understand your sentiment and frustration. When I began writing I decided it was best to share my experience free of bias and opinion. That being said, I felt I alluded to what you commented on by pointing out the ages of the participants. I also plan to fully dive into opinionated conclusions following the write up of the destinations (allowing those uninterested in political rhetoric to step aside). I suspect most of us reading here are traveled well enough to understand what is really going on, much like my photos from the embassy. Strictly experiential with impressions and viewpoints to follow is my objective.

Thanks for reading and I hope you stay along for the conclusion and I suspect you will see we share similar viewpoints.

DL17

^^ Thanks, I just wanted to shed some light on who is really behind these ralies that most people do not support unless they have something to do with the government.

My parents are also originally from Shiraz but we were living in Tehran so it was great to see your pix from Shiraz.

Pretty much all people who are in Tehran are immigrants from other cities of Iran since Tehran is a fairly new city and only around 220 years old. It was picked as capital during the Qajar dynasty era back in 1795

krazykanuck

This makes me think back to being in the UAE last year, where for no reason other than boredom waiting for a flight I tried to fire up the okcupid app while running on a UAE sim card and was greeted by this:



But this thread has definitely piqued my interest in Iran!

rankourabu

Thanks again for the pics! Keeps bringing back memories (oh friendly internet....) And that playground in Yazd hasnt changed in 4 years!

I also didnt find any photo taking restrictions. This is not North Korea. One is freely allowed to move about the country on their own between the tourist cities - and many tourists do so. The VIP buses are excellent as pictured, we can only dream of such buses in the west. And the people at every step, go out of their way to make you feel welcomed in their country.

My biggest annoyance was when on the 17 hour overnight train from Mashad to Esfahan (After hitchhiking overland from Turkmenistan), couldnt get any sleep because everyone wanted to practice their english and insisting on eating their food ....

YouGeeElWhy

Amazing report. Thanks for sharing in such detail.
Please tell me you collected some anti America swag. That would make my trip.

rivlinm

Other than Tehran, I had been most looking forward to visiting Isfahan; specifically its bridges and Imam Square. With such a variety of sights and cultures, Isfahan is often referred to as ‘Half the World.’ Iran’s third most populous city has twice been the capital of Persia, most notably under the reign of Shah Abbas in the 16th century. With another filling hotel breakfast in the books, we were off for a full day of exploring.


Laminated (American) Cheese


Breakfast including carrot jam

A persistent light rain kept us company on our walk to Jame Mosque of Isfahan. Each city has a Jame Mosque (or congressional Mosque) that serves as the city’s primary public Mosque for Friday prayer and Eid celebrations. Originally constructed in the early 8th century, this mosque, with its unique 4 iwan style, has undergone constant reconstruction and additions over the years. Being one of the oldest Mosques still standing in Iran, its variety of designs showcase the full gamut of Iranian architecture.


Approaching the complex and bazar


Expansive complex


Central courtyard


Columns and vaults


Southern iwan


West iwan


Dueling minbars


Remodeling beneath the main dome


Smaller dome


Winter prayer area


Minaret


Iranian student practicing English; we would see him again

Along the way back we observed a bazar just coming to life. An hour earlier it was rather desolate. We had walked the 15 minutes from our hotel to the Mosque but on the way back, after walking 95% of the way Arya decided it was best to take a cab the rest of the way, less than 500 meters…


Isfahan Bazar


The 500 meter shared taxi ride

Still misting a bit we headed right to Imam Mosque which is located on the south side of Imam Square. Another masterpiece, built in the early 17th century, by Shah Abbas, it was intended to replace Jame Mosque as the city’s primary mosque as Isfahan was again made capital of Persia. Since Imam square does not align with Mecca you must make a sharp turn when entering the mosque. This allows the mosque face Mecca and exposes the main dome for a more ideal view from the square.


Imam Mosque


Muqarnas


Entering the main courtyard


Main dome interior


Testing acoustics in the main building


Northern iwan with angled entry portal


Rug storage

After exploring the four main buildings we found a small garden and a friendly cleric quickly approached asking if I had any questions. One question led to another and over an hour (and many disagreements) later it was noon and the mosque was officially closed to non-Muslims. Arya knowing I hadn’t seen everything yet continued the tour as planned, but not without many encounters from security asking us to leave and Arya having to explain the cleric had taken our time and we would be staying to take photos against their wishes. The conversation with the cleric was unique, containing a bit of ‘Islam is the only way’ and ‘Muslims are very open-minded and tolerant’ with some very honest political discussion. In the end they gave me a book promoting Shiite Islam and suggested I contact them with any further questions. I certainly appreciated their time and viewpoints, but felt somewhat pressured to nod and smile. Also at this point the clouds gave way to gorgeous blue skies.


Islam 101


View from the garden


Restoration on the dome


Blue skies over the main dome


Blue skies over the entry from the square

Taking advantage of the weather I roamed the massive square (second in size only to China’s Tiananmen Square) interacting with locals and domestic tourists. Naqsh-e Jahan Square, built at the end of the 16th century is 160 meters wide by 560 meters long. This public gathering hot spot is accentuated by Imam Mosque and the bazar flanking its south and north sides while Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque and Ālī Qāpū Palace border the east and west respectively. Just as it is today, Naqsh-e Jahan Square was a major stopping point along the Silk Road and a hub for trading and commerce.


Imam Mosque from across the square


Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque


Carriage rides around the square…


…until the wind says otherwise

Most of the facilities built for Revolution Day had been removed, but one last stand remained and provided a nice perspective of the square and a nice conversation with some Iranian girls.


Temporary view tower


Domestic tourists

Views from the structure:


Imam Mosque


Ālī Qāpū Palace


Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque


Imam Square (Naqsh-e Jahan Square)

The square was buzzing with people and we again crossed paths with the student from Jame Mosque earlier in the day and he asked if he could follow us around and we had a nice discussion about Iran, his school trip to Isfahan and his studies in general.


Remember me?


Imam Square overlooking Imam Mosque from the Isfahan Bazar


Isfahan Bazar Gheysarieh entrance


Historical Persian paintings above the Bazar entry

Nestled in the bowels of the bazar was our lunch destination. Slightly more expensive based on its location and atmosphere, but the biryani was fantastic. Different than your typical Indian variety, this minced mutton was served within folded nan.


Bastani; a type of Iranian ice cream…


Lunch within an art gallery


Isfahani biryani

Once full of mutton (and Persian rice of course) and noon prayer being over, we wandered back across the square to the Sheikh Lotf Allah Mosque. A true architectural gem of the Safavid era, this mosque was originally designed for the women of the Royal Family. The first of the four major elements to be built in the square, this mosque was small in size and even lacked minarets. For many years this mosque was completely unknown and off limits to the public. To add to its secretiveness over the years, the only way to access the mosque was via an underground tunnel from the palace to the mosque. Each mosque I visited along the way was unique in one way or another and for Sheikh Loft Allah Mosque, its beauty was its distinctive trait.


Angled entryway to align the mosque with Mecca


Inside Sheikh Loft Allah Mosque


Light from the square


Peering up the wall toward the dome


Wall just beneath the dome


The dome

Having seen everything in Imam Sqaure except Ali Qapu Palace we headed west a few block to see Chehel Sotoun Palace. Arya explained Ali Qapu Palace was undergoing renovations and wasn’t as grand as Chehel Sotoun Palace. Also known as 40 Column Palace, Shah Abbas II built this as a dignitary reception venue in a park. Why do I only see 20 columns you may ask. Great question, now drain the murky green water and replace it with lots of bottles of crystal clear Damavand mineral water (Iranian Aquafina) and take a look at the Palace with its reflection. 20x2=40 for the mathematically challenged.


Chehel Sotoun Palace


Three of 40


Chehel Sotoun Palace pavilion


Chehel Sotoun Palace pavilion roof


Chehel Sotoun Palace entry

The inside was rather unorthodox for a building built in post-Islamic Persia. Covered in artistic frescos depicting wars with the Ottomans and other great Persian military success contrasts anything seen throughout the region. Only Vank Cathedral in Isfahan has similar art. Because Islam prohibits visual depictions this style of design is uncommon but a refreshing variance.


Palace interior


Painting depicting military conquest


War with India


Celebration


Backside of Chehel Sotoun Palace

With the sunlight hours drawing to a close we began the walk back to the hotel via the bazar and square. Along the way I decided to spend 1,250,000 IRR on candy (~$35). Isfahan is best known for its Gaz, a nougat with pistachios. I also picked up some sohan which is like a saffron flavored brittle. Since I purchased so much they tossed in some saffron rock candy and flavored sugar for tea.


One of MANY candy shops throughout the city


Someone forgot to remind me I had to lug this around for 2 more weeks

Knowing I didn’t have a use for a Persian rug I decided I needed to find something for myself and settled upon a Team Melli (national team) football (soccer) kit. For the astounding price of 250,000 IRR (~$7) I am now ready to support Iran in their next friendly verse the USMNT. A nice Austrian man owned the shop and we discussed the World Cup and Team Melli a bit before I went back to the hotel to rest my feet after walking about 25km.


Sporting goods shop

At this point I promised Arya I would go right to bed and not cause any trouble tonight. Then I went back out to explore Hafez Avenue. I came across a few unique shops before having dinner around the corner at a small fast food joint.


Handmade stationary and cards


High-end TVs


Not a true Mash Donalds, but the next best copycat

Once I settled on a place to eat I asked if they spoke English and what they serve, he said read the menu, pointing at the Persian only menu on the wall. After a few awkward glances he realized the menu was only in Persian and that was the very reason I had asked in the first place. After that he explained the entire menu and we continued conversation throughout my meal.


Fastfood


Sausage sandwich and Dogh

I decided to wrap up my first day of exploring ‘half of the world’ with some Iranian saffron-flavored bastani before retreating back to the hotel.


Saffron Bastani

gaobest

This is a fabulous TR - makes me think of DanielW's TRs for pix and details. I love reading these. How Great that your tour group was only you! I wonder if it's common for these tour groups.

One big question about the etihad lounge in iAd - when eating with table service, is it customary to tip the server? I assume you've been in FCT or other F lounges with table service, so I'm curious about server tipping in general. How does that work? I assume the table service is otherwise free. I've only (recently) been in LH SEN and USA domestic lounges (aa f in lhr didn't have table service in 2006). Thanks!

rivlinm

I thought I would have more internet troubles, but google and viber both worked. When I needed twitter (not that you ever need twitter) I was able to easily VPN, but at dial up speeds. Other than politically charged websites, I didn't run across too many blocked sites. I even got to enjoy my Eminem Radio on Rhapsody as I got ready one morning! If Eminem isn't in line with Islam, I don't know who is

Funny how of all the places in Iran, the playground is what you notice! And no kidding, those VIP buses would be fantastic.

In addition to not wanting to carry it around, I figured showing that outside of an educated/well traveled group like FT just further perpetuates the negative stereotype.

Thanks! I'll never compare to his photography though. I can't imagine how different my trip could have been with a group larger than 1! I'm fairly certain they lost money on me, but suspect it will pay off in the end. The publicity I am providing for their agency and tourism in Iran in general from my experiences outweighs the loss of a few million rials.

I chose not to tip for table service in IAD, but have tipped at the bar in the LH FCL. I tipped for my shave in AUH, and tip for a Bud Light at a lowly UC. I guess I tend to tip for sins, but don't consider eating to require a sin tax/tip.

boyerling3

What a great TR! I love the balance of photos, narration and commentary. Thanks for letting me see something that few Americans do.