Go Back  FlyerTalk Forums > Community > Trip Reports
Reload this Page >

Epic trip to North Korea, Featuring: Air Koryo/TG/NH/BA/UA/LX/QF/SQ

Community
Wiki Posts
Search

Epic trip to North Korea, Featuring: Air Koryo/TG/NH/BA/UA/LX/QF/SQ

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Dec 17, 2014, 6:19 am
  #1  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: ZRH, BKK, NAS
Programs: BA Gold, AA ExecPlat, TK Elite
Posts: 145
Epic trip to North Korea, Featuring: Air Koryo/TG/NH/BA/UA/LX/QF/SQ

Hello Dear readers, and welcome to my epic trip spanning 3 continents, 9 countries, and many adventures in between!

BACKGROUND INFORMATION
I have always been intrigued by “off the beaten track” destinations, and North Korea (also known as DPRK) was on my list of must do countries. Many may think that it is extremely difficult to achieve this, however it was just a matter of price (quite expensive) as well as planning, as the only regularly scheduled flights into the DPRK are from PEK.

The tour to North Korea was from a well-reputed travel agency, with all steps from visa application processing to obtaining an Air Koryo e-ticket being done with ease. As a note, I had to fill out a one page application, provide a copy of my passport, and make a 50% deposit via bank transfer, and the rest was dealt by the company. This was definitely much easier than obtaining a Chinese, US or Russian visa!

PLANNING/FLIGHTS
The tour agency recommended getting double entry Chinese visas, however as a Swiss national, I was able to receive a 72-hour visa free transit in PEK, so no need to go through the hassle of getting a Chinese visa!

The next step was to find flights to/from PEK. I decided to combine this trip with a trip to visit friends in Australia, so in the end I would have 2 tickets.

The first ticket, courtesy of the ever so generous US Airways (RIP), was booked for 100,000 miles in First Class as follows:

ZRH-CDG LX C
CDG-BKK TG F
BKK-PEK TG F
(DESTINATION PEK)
PEK-BKK TG F
BKK-SIN SQ C
(STOPOVER IN SIN)
SIN-NRT UA F
NRT-FRA NH F
FRA-ZRH LX C

This route enabled me to sample 3 different Star Alliance First Class products, which I was very excited about! During the stopover in SIN, I added return flights to SYD booked through BA Executive Club:

SIN-SYD QF C
SYD-SIN BA F

Originally I hoped to be able to sample QF First Class, however after their switch to DXB, SIN lost all QF First services.

The Air Koryo flights from PEK to FNJ and back were part of the organized tour. There was an option to take the train back from Pyongyang to Beijing, however I opted to pay the surcharge of 50 Euros to fly back to PEK, as spending a night on the train was not really to my liking.

DISCLAIMER
This report will focus on images with captions briefly explaining the content of the image. There will be no more long paragraphs until the summary/conclusion. I feel that images are able to more accurately portray my experiences. All pictures were captured by my iPhone, so apologies in advance for their quality.

This report will be split up into the following parts:

PART 1: Getting to PEK, aka the gateway to North Korea
ZRH-CDG LX A320 (Business Class)
CDG-BKK TG A380 (First Class)
BKK-PEK TG B744 (First Class)

PART 2: The World’s 1-star airline might not be so bad
PEK-FNJ JS T204 (Economy Class)
FNJ-PEK JS T204 (Economy Class)

PART 3: A quick 4-day glimpse into North Korea (non-aviation related)

PART 4: Side-trip to the land down under
PEK-BKK TG B744 (First Class)
BKK-SIN SQ A333 (Business Class)
SIN-SYD QF B744 (Business Class)

PART 5: The best airport lounge, a celebrity encounter, and *A’s ugly stepchild
SYD-SIN BA B77W (First Class)
SIN-NRT UA B772 (First Class)

PART 6: Return Home by way of a boxed seat
NRT-FRA NH B77W (First Class)
FRA-ZRH LX A320 (Business Class)


Well then lets get started with this grand adventure of mine!
IBxAnders likes this.
LX64A332 is offline  
Old Dec 17, 2014, 6:20 am
  #2  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: ZRH, BKK, NAS
Programs: BA Gold, AA ExecPlat, TK Elite
Posts: 145
PART 1: Getting to PEK, aka the gateway to North Korea

ZRH-CDG LX A320 (Business Class)

I started my day with a comfortable 9:00 am departure out of ZRH. At the airport I headed to the Senator lounge for a quick coffee and croissant before making my way to the gate. This was a rather uneventful short hop in LX business with a breakfast offering of bircher muesli, cheese, breads, croissants etc.





The one interesting thing was, I had a high-ranking Vietnamese government official next to me who attended the World Economic Forum (WEF) in Davos and was on his way back to Hanoi via CDG.

Upon arrival at CDG, I proceeded to the Star Alliance Lounge for my layover. The Lounge has a small first class section which was adequate for the 2 hours I spent there, definitely not a lounge though I would go out of my way to spend extra time in.
















Shortly before boarding I made my way to the satellite gate area, where I had to still go through the security control. In contrast to the buggy and personal escort in BKK nobody escorted me from the lounge. This is where ground service at outstations for TG really lacks.

CDG-BKK TG A380 (First Class)

I boarded the A380 through the lower deck, then made my way up the forward stairs to First Class. I’m torn as to if I prefer F on the upper vs. lower decks. On the upper deck there is a lot of space in the toilet and lounge areas, whereas the lower deck feels more spacious in the cabin itself.





Before takeoff service consisted of traditional TG Dom and warm towels. The main course was business class quality at best. I find catering at outstations is often not up to par as that of the airline’s hub.







After dinner, I went to the large bathroom and changed into the TG pyjamas. In this same space EK manages to install a shower, a shame that no other airlines have done this.




I then proceeded to sleep soundly until approximately 90 mins before touchdown in BKK. A nice breakfast with fresh fruits in a hollowed out papaya and crepes was served before landing.






Transit in BKK, including F lounge and Spa

Upon arrival in BKK, a F class buggy brought me directly to transit security and the F lounge. I managed to get an appointment for a 60 min massage rather quickly, which was an interesting experience due to the mesh underwear you are given to wear. After a refreshing massage and shower, I had some time to relax in the lounge before I was taken on another buggy escort to the PEK gate.






BKK-PEK TG B744 (First Class)

Upon boarding, I made my way to the nose of the classic 744, and into seat 1A. This was another good TG F flight, albeit on Asian routes, TG doesn’t serve caviar, however they did provide a Rimowa amenity kit as well as the ability to pre-order meals.










After making my way to central PEK to my hotel by means of the airport express, I decided to take a stroll along Wangfujing street which had many shops and restaurants on offer. The following day was a mandatory group meeting at the office of the tour company, to also sort out any outstanding payments etc.






Last edited by LX64A332; Dec 17, 2014 at 8:13 am Reason: Add pics/content
LX64A332 is offline  
Old Dec 17, 2014, 6:21 am
  #3  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: ZRH, BKK, NAS
Programs: BA Gold, AA ExecPlat, TK Elite
Posts: 145
PART 2: The World’s 1-star airline might not be so bad
PEK-FNJ JS T204 (Economy Class)
FNJ-PEK JS T204 (Economy Class)


After 2 days of exploring Beijing, as well as a pre-tour meeting at the tour company’s Beijing office, the morning finally arrived, and it sunk in: I am going to North Korea!

When I woke up in my Beijing hotel that morning, I had a mixed bag of feelings, at one point I was excited for my 4 days of North Korea, but I am not going to lie, I was nevertheless slightly nervous about going to the most closed-off country in the world, with no internet, cell phone service and general contact with the outside world for 4 days, but I was ready. I’m going to North Korea!


Air Koryo Tupolev waiting at PEK. Interesting note: Korean Air also operate out of this PEK terminal, so at one point both airlines were parked right next to each other!


The modern red leather seats


A copy of the English Pyongyang Times was handed out after boarding


View of the cabin shortly before take-off

Then the interesting safety video was played:






Typical Russian style bathroom


View of the cabin during cruise



Some surprisingly clear views of northern China during the flight. Interesting note: We did not fly over water during the flight, which would be normal given the direct great circle route of PEK-FNJ



The famous koryo burger! Needless to say, I didn’t touch it, instead indulging in my wrap bought at Starbucks!

Some impressions of the terrain during descent:







The flight attendant in the jumpiest in front of me


IL 62 awaiting its fate


The old terminal being renovated. I believe this is now almost completely finished.


The temporary terminal we arrived (and later also departed) at


View of the plane upon disembarking on the tarmac
Interesting note: we were told the person in the foreground is the Ethiopian ambassador to the DPRK. Russian, Czech and Swedish diplomats were also onboard, judging by the flags on the cars in the airport parking lot.


The temporary arrivals/departures terminal from the inside


The single luggage belt


The return flight was exactly the same, so I will spare you the details. Except that there were a total of 10 passengers on the flight, probably due to it being the first day of the lunar new year.

In the original price of the tour, an overnight train ride was included back to Beijing. However, as US citizens are not allowed to take the train, they must pay 50 EUR surcharge to fly back to Beijing. Paying this 50 EUR (even though I could have taken the train as a Swiss national) sounded much more pleasant to me than spending the night in a North Korean train, so I flew back to PEK with the Americans of the group.

Overall Air Koryo verdict: I was pleasantly surprised that it was not as bad as everyone says it is. I certainly had enough space in the exit row, and the aircraft was modern and clean. The crew spoke an acceptable English, certainly better than on some Chinese domestic flights. Now if my experience were on the aging T154 or IL62 aircraft, it surely would have been a different verdict!

The next post will be some non-aviation related pictures of my 4 days in the hermit kingdom, so please skip if this doesn’t interest you, or if you disagree with me ‘’promoting/supporting’’ North Korean tourism.

Last edited by LX64A332; Jan 18, 2015 at 8:49 am Reason: add content
LX64A332 is offline  
Old Dec 17, 2014, 6:21 am
  #4  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: ZRH, BKK, NAS
Programs: BA Gold, AA ExecPlat, TK Elite
Posts: 145
PART 3: A quick 4-day glimpse into North Korea (non-aviation related)

Sorry guys for the delay, however my university studies and exams made me totally forget about finishing this report!

Below are some snapshots with short captions of my 4 nights in North Korea. This part will be non-aviation related, so if you’re only interested in aviation topics, please scroll down to part #4 (I promise it wont take as long to




Revolutionary martyrs cemetery


Pyongyang Arc de Triumph- built to be purposely larger and higher than the one in Paris. Note the complete lack of traffic, thus enabling us to stand in the middle of the highway to take pictures.


Modern high rise apartments. Local expats nickname this area the Dubai of Pyongyang.


One of only two advertising billboard in the country, here advertising a North Korean car manufacturer.


The default hotel for most foreign guests: The Yangdagkto International Hotel. The hotel is built on an island in the river, so foreigners are not able to leave the island without a government escort.



To be honest, I expected worse. While definitely not the 5-star hotel as advertised, I would compare it to a comfortable 3-star hotel in the rest of the world.


Of note: there was always electricity and hot water (a luxury in North Korea), as well as a TV with the usual government propaganda channels airing re-runs of the great leader skiing, as well as surprisingly the BBC.


During the evening/night, this is what a hotel lobby looks like in a country with an energy shortage.


The view of the city and the river from my room.


Crossing the frozen river


Portrait of the Kims, with the modern “Dubai” skyline in the background.




Giant statues of the Kims, where foreign guests are requested to show their respects.


Korean War memorial


North Korean Parliament, where high ranking party officials meet twice a year.


Propaganda can be seen everywhere


Mural showing the Dear Leader in his youth


Empty tree-lined streets with modern high-rise apartments


Pyongyang metro, also used as a nuclear shelter



Like Moscow, Pyongyangs Metro has grand murals in its stations.


Old East German metro cars, complete with Kim portraits


View of the unfinished Ryugyong Hotel


Korean war museum


Captured American helicopter


Captured USS Pueblo spy ship


Bullet holes from the gun fight between North Koreans and USS Pueblo crew.



Beautiful sunset view of the Pyongyang skyline


Juche tower. We were able to take an elevator up for 5 EUR, however that wasn't worth it to me, so I stayed at the bottom of the tower.


Empty 6-lane highway down to Kaesong/DMZ


Opulent meal for Lunar New Year. Karaoke included.



Monuments for Korean Unification. In fact, all over the North, people always mentioned that once the Yankee aggressor leaves the Korean Peninsula, two countries can be unified again. Im not sure that the North entirely knows that it will under no chance be on their terms, if and when a reunification takes place.



Korean Armistice Agreement. Technically only a cease-fire, therefore the war is technically still ongoing. Note: the UN flag very worn-out, while of course the DPRK flag still looks brand new, like it did in the 1950’s!


View of the DMZ. The Large building is the US/South Korean headquarters, and the blue huts are UN conference buildings with one half in each country. This was done, so that the two sides can hold talks without having to leave their respective territories.


North Korean soldiers guarding the exit to South Korea.


The concrete is the border. The soldier is standing in the North, while the gravel is the south.


Korean style tapas. For a 5 EUR surcharge, one also had the opportunity to try some spicy dog soup. Needless to say, I passed on this exclusive offer.



On the last night, we went bowling. This was the first time that we were able to interact with normal citizens enjoying their evening, which was the only time the tour didn't feel scripted.


Out of use IL62. We were departing FNJ to PEK on the morning of the Lunar New Year, so naturally the flight was empty. There were a total of 20 passengers on the flight back to the 21st century.

Thanks for reading guys. Will update soon with continuing flights on TG F, SQ C, QF C, BA F, UA F, and NH F.

Last edited by LX64A332; Jun 8, 2015 at 3:32 am Reason: Add content/pics
LX64A332 is offline  
Old Dec 17, 2014, 6:22 am
  #5  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: ZRH, BKK, NAS
Programs: BA Gold, AA ExecPlat, TK Elite
Posts: 145
PART 4: Side-trip to the land down under

PEK-BKK TG B744 (First Class)
BKK-SIN SQ A333 (Business Class)
SIN-SYD QF B744 (Business Class)

After having safely landed in PEK, I was glad to be back in the civilisation that is China. The first stop was to a McDonalds after exiting customs, as I did not have the courage to eat meat while in North Korea, therefore, needless to say, I couldn't see white rice and kimchi for a while.

After spending the night at the convenient Novotel Sanyuan, right next to the airport express train station, it was off to SYD, via BKK and SIN.


The gigantic PEK Check-in hall


Escalators leading up to the AC First Class lounge





In general, I find open air lounges quite roomy and spacious. The only problem, is that the temperature is hard to control. At the beginning of February this is less of a problem than during the summer heat.



Food and beverage stations


They had an acceptable hot lunch buffet



Views from the lounge


TG 747-400 taking me to BKK


Pre take-off Thai iced tea, one of my favourites


View of Terminal 3


Legroom in the nose of the 747 is always spacious


Having 3 windows is truly luxurious


Another Thai Iced tea post take-off with nuts


Canapes service


Beautiful sunset view


First course


Soup course


Main course


Cheese course


Dessert and hotel towel service

Overall, TG offer a solid regional first class product. Compared to flights of a similar length in the US on domestic first, it is a world apart.

In BKK I stayed at the very convenient Novotel BKK airport, despite the fact that I could have gotten the Le Meridien in the city for half the price, not having to deal with Bangkok traffic was worth it for a short 18-hour stopover.



EVA Air lounge in BKK


A rare sight: Royal Brunei Airlines


SQ Silverkris Lounge


Lounge decorated for Chinese Lunar New Year


SQ A330-300 taking me on the short hop down to SIN



SQ Regional Business Class


Another rare bird: Cambodia Angkor Air



Menu for the “snack” service on the 2 hour flight to SIN. In the US in domestic first, it would be a snack basket with packaged snacks.


SQ signature Singapore Sling to start


One tray meal service, including starter, main, and dessert.


Another Singaporean signature: iced milo.


Large container chips waiting to enter Singapore’s harbour


Note on the arrival card: DEATH to drug traffickers


SIN is one of the few remaining airports with an old flip-style departure information board


Entrance to the lovely QF lounge in SIN, although nice, I prefer the one in HKG.









QF 747-400 taking me on the overnight service to SYD


Upper deck view


Great legroom and side storage in the exit row.


Menu on tonights flight


Advantage of having the seat next to you empty: moving map while watching a movie at the same time!


Starter salad


Main course


Healthy fruit dessert


Seat in lie flat bed mode


Bistro breakfast

Needless to say, I was quite glad to finally be at my destination, after 3 flights!
I loved Sydney, and spent an enjoyable few days visiting friends.

Stay tuned for the next instalments, featuring QF First lounge, BA F, UA F, and NH F!

Last edited by LX64A332; Jun 9, 2015 at 8:18 am Reason: add content/pics
LX64A332 is offline  
Old Dec 17, 2014, 6:23 am
  #6  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: ZRH, BKK, NAS
Programs: BA Gold, AA ExecPlat, TK Elite
Posts: 145
Reserved Part 5
LX64A332 is offline  
Old Dec 17, 2014, 6:23 am
  #7  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: ZRH, BKK, NAS
Programs: BA Gold, AA ExecPlat, TK Elite
Posts: 145
Reserved Part 6
LX64A332 is offline  
Old Dec 17, 2014, 10:02 am
  #8  
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: 6km East of EPAYE
Programs: UA Silver, AA Platinum, AS & DL GM Marriott TE, Hilton Gold
Posts: 9,582
Great start LX64A332, I am looking forward to the rest!!

Was that 744 BKK-PEK Old TG F? I didn't think there were many of those floating around anymore.


Enjoy your trip!
Madone59 is offline  
Old Dec 17, 2014, 10:02 am
  #9  
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: MSP
Posts: 482
Really looking forward to this. Nice start to the trip. Seat 1A sure looks like a nice place to be.
jacobac00 is offline  
Old Dec 17, 2014, 10:34 am
  #10  
FlyerTalk Evangelist
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: London
Posts: 17,007
Very exciting itinerary. Thanks for sharing it, I'm looking forward to the FNJ part!
Calchas is offline  
Old Dec 17, 2014, 10:42 am
  #11  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: ZRH, BKK, NAS
Programs: BA Gold, AA ExecPlat, TK Elite
Posts: 145
Originally Posted by Madone59
Great start LX64A332, I am looking forward to the rest!!

Was that 744 BKK-PEK Old TG F? I didn't think there were many of those floating around anymore.

Enjoy your trip!
Thanks! Yes this was old TG F, however this trip was taken in Jan/Feb 2014 over the lunar new year, so its been a while ago. I believe most TG 744s now have the semi-enclosed suites in F.

Originally Posted by jacobac00
Really looking forward to this. Nice start to the trip. Seat 1A sure looks like a nice place to be.
Originally Posted by Calchas
Very exciting itinerary. Thanks for sharing it, I'm looking forward to the FNJ part!
Thanks Hope to have the rest of the report done in the next couple of days!
LX64A332 is offline  
Old Dec 17, 2014, 11:58 am
  #12  
FlyerTalk Evangelist
 
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: ATL
Programs: DL Scattered Smothered Covered Medallion, Some hotel & car stuff, Kroger Plus Card
Posts: 10,745
Exciting! Looking forward to reading/seeing the rest!
gooselee is offline  
Old Dec 17, 2014, 4:29 pm
  #13  
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Melbourne, Australia
Programs: VA WP, NZ *A SG
Posts: 529
Originally Posted by LX64A332
Thanks! Yes this was old TG F, however this trip was taken in Jan/Feb 2014 over the lunar new year, so its been a while ago. I believe most TG 744s now have the semi-enclosed suites in F.
6 747s have new F, 6 have old F.
smit0847 is offline  
Old Dec 18, 2014, 6:58 am
  #14  
 
Join Date: Oct 2013
Programs: DL Diamond; Marriott Titanium
Posts: 226
Good start so far excited to see the rest of the trip report. I think going to the off beat path are some of the best experiences a person can have.
HLT1904 is offline  
Old Dec 18, 2014, 7:04 am
  #15  
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: SIN (with a bit of ZRH sprinkled in)
Posts: 9,451
"Babecued"

Gotta love thai English
YuropFlyer is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

This site is owned, operated, and maintained by MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. Copyright © 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Designated trademarks are the property of their respective owners.