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9 days, 8 countries. RTW to Okinawa via Bucharest. KLM Y/J, AA F/J, JU Y, NH Y, OZ Y

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9 days, 8 countries. RTW to Okinawa via Bucharest. KLM Y/J, AA F/J, JU Y, NH Y, OZ Y

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Old Nov 26, 2014, 12:03 pm
  #16  
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Do you have a priority pass? it could be useful in some cases
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Old Nov 26, 2014, 12:33 pm
  #17  
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Not Priority Pass.. Diners Club, Admirals Club and *A Gold lounges. But none of them help me this trip as it is mostly SkyTeam.
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Old Nov 26, 2014, 11:15 pm
  #18  
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Nov 26, 2014
Flight: Belgrade, Serbia (BEG) to Budapest, Hungary (BUD); Air Serbia ATR Economy
Hotel: easyHotel Budapest; Budapest, Hungary; 19EUR

I still woke up early this morning, though at 5:30 so not too bad. My flight to Budapest didn't leave until 18:25 today so I had a long day planned exploring Belgrade. I expected to head out to the airport about 4PM or so. Breakfast at the hotel was pretty decent with chocolate croissants, fruit, eggs, sausages, and cream puffs. Fully fueled I set off about 8AM after checking out and having them hold my bags. First stop was the St. Sava church again to see it in daylight. This is the largest orthodox church in the world and still unfinished inside. It was still freezing cold out this morning but at least a gorgeously clear day.

Slavija Square



St. Sava church

There was a statue of Karadjordjie in the east end of the park. He was a famous fighter against the Ottoman Turks. From there I wasn't sure if I would catch a tram to Kalemegdan Fortress or walk but decided to walk as I still felt energetic enough. I figured by the end of the day I would be exhausted. I was basically following the '1 day in Belgrade' tour plan from (http://www.belgradian.com/1-2-days-i...y-in-belgrade/). The ruins from NATO bombing during the Bosnian war were nearby, a slight detour on my way to St. Marks Church. The ruins were across the street from each other and had multiple holes punched in the sides, one building was quite heavily damaged.

First McDonalds in Eastern Europe



Buildings bombed by NATO

St. Marks church was the next stop. First I looked in the little Russian church behind it but there was a service going on so I slipped out quickly. St. Marks church was gorgeous red and pink brick on the outside but the inside was actually pretty bare except for the altar area. Continuing down Terazjie street I eventually came across Knez Mihailova st, a pedestrian walkway flanked by shopping and restaurants. I grabbed a delicious cherry pie from a bakery and continued on to Kalemegdan which was at the end of the street. The fortress is huge. It was the original site of Belgrade at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers and was reinforced by the Turks. Along the walls they had a photo exhibit of the liberation of Belgrade from the Germans in 1944. Further on, there was a great view out over both rivers at the Victory Monument. At another corner of the fortress there is a tower you can pay 50RSD to go to the top.

St Marks church


Knez MMihailova St.


Confluence of Sava & Danube

It was about 11:00 and I had already been wandering three hours. My mind turned to lunch and finding a post office to mail another postcard to miss hauteboy. On the way out of the Stamboul Gate there were some large models of dinosaurs, and a collection of tanks and howitzers from WWII period. Again had no luck finding the post office and no one knew where one was. I walked by the Bajrakli Mosque in search of two restaurants listed in the Lonely Planet. I couldn't find either of them but stumbled across Mentalitet (http://en.mentalitet.net/). I ordered the country chicken with bacon and white wine cream sauce. The bread tray was impressive, several kinds of bread accompanied with pork pate. Delicious. And the chicken was very good and tender too, highly recommended. And more luck, it turned out there was a post office just around the corner. This part of old Belgrade was very pretty, tree-lined streets with restored and non-restored buildings.






I continued on to cobbled Skadarska street, an artsy neighborhood full of restaurants and shops. It was pretty dead so I just walked through, planning to walk to the Tesla Museum for my last stop of the day. The Museum was only two blocks from my hotel but about a 1.5 mile walk from Skadarska. The museum entry is 500 RSD and they run English tours every hour. I came in the middle of one as he was finishing explaining how Tesla's ideas introduced modern power generation and transmission. I'm also pretty sure my tour guide was Keanu Reeves. There were also some hands-on demonstrations with tesla coils and flourescent tubes, all of us waved the tubes around as they glowed from the power emitted by the 2 million volt Tesla coil. There was a 'safer' coil that shocked you mildly. I hung around at the start of the next tour when they showed a movie and demonstrated the induction motor.


Skadarska





Tesla Museum

By that time it was 2:45 and I figured I'd just catch the 3PM or 3;20PM bus to the airport. I stopped at a bakery to get a ham and cheese slice.. it was so good I went back for two more! Back to the hotel and just sat for a few minutes to rest my feet, I had walked nearly 12km today! I caught the 3:20 bus to the airport, arriving about 4PM. There was a long line at checkin but it moved quickly and 5 minutes later I had my boarding pass. Once through immigration there is a Duty free store and a cafe but not much else. I still didn't have lounge access here (but there is a Priority Pass lounge).

The flight eventually boarded via bus and we left on time. This was an ATR and the seats were very cramped. I passed out just after takeoff. They served another sandwich enroute and we landed 10 minutes early. Bus to terminal, then had to wait nearly 35 minutes for our luggage to come out! The ATMs didn't seem to be working with my card either, hopefully there's not another fraud trip on the card.

There was another 20 minute wait or so for the shuttle bus and eventually we set off. Near the airport could be anywhere with huge McDonalds, Burger King and Tescos. The drive took about 30 minutes after dropping off some other passengers in the old Jewish quarter which is full of hip and trendy bars and restaurants with menus in English. I got to the easyHotel just after 9PM but had to wait awhile as there was a huge group of Albanians trying to checkin.

The desk clerk gave me a bunch of maps and other useful info on Budapest and I went up to my room where I passed out. The hotel is clean quiet and basic. Free (slowish) wifi and a tiny bathroom. It's a good deal unless you don't like the color orange.

Last edited by hauteboy; Nov 26, 2014 at 11:25 pm
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Old Nov 27, 2014, 3:39 am
  #19  
 
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Those light-sabres look dangerous!

Having the bombed-out buildings in the middle of a capital city is interesting, quite a contrast with the beautiful churches.

Just off to the airport to get my dose of european winter.
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Old Nov 27, 2014, 3:53 am
  #20  
 
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Thank you,look forward to hearing the rest, PS just joined FT but I have to say this was one of the best trip reports ever. Look forward to reading some of your past experiences.
Thanks again!!
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Old Nov 27, 2014, 9:23 am
  #21  
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Very enjoyable report, you made Bucharest look quite interesting, I might have to check it out next time I'm in Europe.
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Old Nov 27, 2014, 4:24 pm
  #22  
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Nov 27, 2014
Hotel: easyHotel Oktagon Budapest; Budapest, Hungary; 19EUR

I had the full day today to explore Budapest and also I hoped take a side trip across the border into Slovakia. The easyHotel does not have breakfast so I grabbed a croissant and yogurt at a shop nearby. Unfortunately that left me with only a 10,000 HUF ($40) note the ATM gave me that no one had change for, wasted precious minutes running around the Oktagon until I found a place to change. I planned to visit Castle Hill first. The metro was 350 HUF ride down to Deak Ferenc ter station where I connected to M2 to Szell Kalman ter. This was just a short walk to the northern Castle Hill gates which meant the entire walk was downhill.

Budapest Metro

It was grey and damp cold today, so I wish I had brought along a scarf or something as my chin was freezing. I came across Matthias Church where I sas the first group of tourists I'd seen this trip. A big group of Chinese and Japanese were there in front of the church, which appeared to be closed for construction. They were all heading to the Fishermans Bastion so I walked along with them and got some good photos across to Pest and the Parliament building. It was grey and misty though so the view wasn't that great.

Castle Hill

Matthias Church

Parliament Building

Afterwards the cold was starting to set in so I bought a postcard for miss hauteboy and sat in a cafe enjoying a hot chocolate and warm strudel. Most of the street was lined with tourist souvenir shops and restaurants. Luckily this time finding a post office was easy. I continued down to the Royal Palace and then walked back down the hill near the funicular, there were a bunch of people walking up the hill. Going the way I went is much easier! The Chain Bridge was at the bottom and I crossed it on my way to the Hard Rock cafe. I arrived at Vorosmarty Square at 10:45, just as the 10:30 free walking tours were departing. They were busy setting up the stalls for the Christmas Markets, I would just be missing them as they start tomorrow, Nov 28th.

Old Trabant

Walking down the hill

Chain bridge


After getting another shirt at the HRC, I decided to head to Esztergom on the border with Slovakia. I caught the metro up to Arpad Hid station, arriving at 11:15 and luckily there was a bus leaving in 15 minutes (930HUF). The bus ride was pretty full for the 46 km ride to Esztergom, and took about 75 minutes. Esztergom used to be the capital of Hungary 1000 years ago before it was moved to Buda. The Roman Catholic church is still based here and there is the huge Basilica that dominates the skyline. From the bus station it was only a 1.5 mile walk over the bridge and across the border into Slovakia (#170). The bridge was only rebuilt in 2001 after being destroyed during WWII. It was about 1:30PM and I was getting hungry so found a nearby restaurant at the El Camino hotel. I ordered the cherry soup and deer goulash with garlic dumplings. The soup was delicious but it would be better suited as a dessert dish, it was like eating melted ice cream. The goulash was quite tasty and the dumplings were... garlicky. I wandered around town a little bit but not much was going on. I wanted to get back to Budapest as soon as possible so walked back across the bridge (total time in Slovakia, 1 hr!) and back to the bus station, where there was one departing at 2:50 PM. It was already starting to get dark on the way back yet it was only 3:30!






Esztergom and crossing the Danube to Slovakia


Cherry soup+Deer goulash


Sturovo, Slovakia

Once back in Budapest I went to the Gellert Baths on the new Metro 4 line which just opened earlier this year (2014). Budapest is known for its thermal spas, and what better way to relax and soak off the walking I've done the past few days! The price was 4900 HUF though, which essentially cleared me out.. I only had 25 HUF left afterwards. They give you a electronic wristband that operates the entryway and lockers. A bit convoluted set of down and up to find the locker room, then headed into the spa area. They have several pools at different temperatures and a huge swimming pool. Soaking in the 36C water was great but just wasn't warm enough for me so I headed to the 40C pool which was much better. They also have a 'bain froid' at 16C (Brr!!). The interior of the baths are amazingly detailed, covered in colored tiles. The baths have been around since the 1800s and the water outlets have created mini-flowstones from mineral deposits in the water.

New Metro Line 4




Gellert Baths

On my way out of the baths I found a 500 HUF note on the hallway, gave me just enough to get the metro to see the 'Great Synagoge', one of the largest in the world. This was built in Moorish style with two towers. From the synagogue I debated trying to get to the river to catch a 7PM cruise. But I was getting hungry so just decided to walk through the pub district to find a restaurant for dinner. The LP mentioned one named 'Klassz'. I couldn't find it at first but apparently it has changed names slightly. Tonight was my last night in Europe (and also Thanksgiving) so I decided to splurge a bit. Got the seared duck foie gras with honeyed pear which was two huge pieces of foie served on Texas toast. Delicous! Followed that with lamb shoulder w/ lentils and potatoes. Also very good but part of the lamb was dry. And it didn't take much convincing to get the pumpkin creme brulee, though it wasn't quite what I was expecting as it was orange-flavored creme with chunks of pumpkin at the bottom. Not bad for 30 Euro. After that feast I walked back to the hotel and crashed... I had to get up at 3AM to catch the shuttle to the airport!




Last edited by hauteboy; Nov 27, 2014 at 4:35 pm
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Old Nov 27, 2014, 6:23 pm
  #23  
 
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Looking forward to the OKA sections. Its a little island that has always fascinated me and I've always wanted to go there.
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Old Nov 28, 2014, 5:50 am
  #24  
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looks like I'll start and end the day with rain as it was drizzling in Budapest when I left and it is raining heavily in Okinawa. So not yet sure what I will get up to
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Old Nov 29, 2014, 7:18 am
  #25  
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Nov 28-29, 2014
Flight: Budapest, Hungary (BUD) to Amsteram, Netherlands (AMS); KLM 737 Economy
Flight: Amsterdam, Netherlands (AMS) to Fukuoka, Japan (FUK); KLM 777 Economy
Flight: Fukuoka, Japan (FUK) to Naha, Japan (OKA); ANA 737 Economy
Hotel: Best Western Naha Inn; Naha, Japan; 4800 JPY

I set my alarm for 3AM to catch my 3:25AM shuttle but I woke up about 1AM when the neighbors came back to their room. I'm guessing they were drunk as they kept thudding into the walls and talking loudly until 2AM when they must have passed out. I couldn't really get back to sleep so I started making noise, taking a shower, repacking bag, etc. I went down to reception about 3:15 to wait for the shuttle, he was right on time. It was drizzling this morning and the streets were wet. We picked up a few more passengers and I slept most of the way to the airport. We arrived about 4:10 and had to wait for the counters to open. I had already checked in online but didn't have a BP but was able to get one from the kiosk. They could only check my bags as far as Fukuoka where I would have to recheck.

The security line took awhile too as everyone got there all at once. Once through I headed to the Platinum Lounge (Diners Club lounge) but they didn't open until 5AM. I spent about an hour or so in the lounge. Once we boarded they announced a delay in order to deice the wings and due to weather issues in Amsterdam. We departed about 20 minutes late but arrived on time in Amsterdam, I must have slept for most of the flight as I don't remember much of it.


Platinum Lounge, Budapest

Once in Amsterdam I had 5.5 hrs and I debated going into town esp since I was already in the Schengen area. But I decided to head to the lounge to wait, after going to Starbucks to get caffienated. The lines for the passport control were long but I was able to use my UK passport to go through the e-gates in no time at all. The Menzies lounge was very busy this time of morning compared when I had come through a few days earlier.

Retro KLM plane, Amsterdam

The Fukuoka flight left on time. When I checked in online yesterday it was showing the plane completely full, yet when we departed there were lots of open seats. I moved up to a window seat after takeoff as my original seat lacked legroom due to the AVOD box. I watched Guardians of the Galaxy until they finished serving dinner. I then passed out for over 7 hrs as I only woke up when they came by to serve breakfast! We arrived into Fukuoka about 15 minutes late. Unfortunately we got in right after a Korean Airlines flight and the line for foreigners was stretched 6 lanes deep and taking 15 minutes per lane. I managed to jump 3 lanes as I accidentally went in the residents lane and they put me back in the foreigners lane halfway. Finally they added some more agents and line moved a lot quicker. Still it took about 30 minutes to get through immigration and get my bags.



KLM Y AMS-FUK

Fukuoka has different domestic and international terminals across the runway from each other so I had to catch the free shuttle bus to the domestic terminal. Arrived and was checked in by 10:20, about an hour after landing. That still gave me an hour and a half before my next flight so I headed to the ANA Lounge.


ANA Lounge, Fukuoka Domestic T2

The flight left 10 minutes late due to late arrival. The 737 seemed a little old but was fine, and I actually had more legroom than on most US airlines. I'd forgotten to go to an ATM so I hoped there would be one available in Okinawa. Apparently I'd also fogottent to charge my phone, download Japan GPS maps or print out the pages from my LP Japan book... so I was totally unprepared for Okinawa. On arrival in Okinawa we deplaned via stairs then I had to wait for my bags. Luckily there was a working ATM on Level 2. The best way to get into town is to use the monorail from the airport. I had booked the Best Western right next to one of the monorail stops. I bought a 300¥ ticket to the hotel before I realized they had a 24-hr pass for 700¥. I arrived at the hotel about 2:45 PM. They gave me an upgrade to a higer floor and I waited a few minutes until my phone charged up a bit.

ANA Y FUK-OKA

Best Western

I headed out about 3:30 to Shuri Castle, a World Heritage site and palace of the Ryūkyū Kingdom. It was destroyed during WWII but rebuilt in the 1990s. I caught the monorail up a few stops and got off at Gibo then walked in up the hill to the castle gates. It was drizzling on and off but not too bad. There were a lot of tourists here, both Western and local. There was a dancer performing in a tent right before the gates. The entry fee to the Castle was 820¥ (must have gone up recently from 800... and I found out later if you show your 24-hr monorail ticket it is only 660!!). The main part of the castle is a museum and you must take off your shoes to enter, and no photos allowed inside although everyone was ignoring the rules. After the castle I walked down to Shureimon Gate and continued to the royal mausoleum at Tamaudun. This was 300¥ entry or 240¥ with the monorail ticket. By this time it was after 5PM and starting to rain heavier so I walked back to Gibo station and caught the monorail back to the hotel to freshen up. Okinawa is very humid and warm compared to cold Eastern Europe. But with the cloudy skies it meant I have only seen the sun one day this whole trip!

Even parking is cute in Japan





Shuri Castle

Tamaudun mausoleum

For dinner I headed out to Yunangi, recommended in LP and Tripadvisor. When I got there about 8PM there was a line out the door, and still more lined up inside. I started talking with some other people in line, one couple from Taiwan and a guy from Tokyo. Finally I got a table and ordered one of the set meals. I'm glad I got the smaller option as they brought out 7 different dishes, chicken champurū (stirfry), mimiga (pigs ears in vinegar), pork belly, miso soup crammed with pork and mushrooms, and seaweed, all served with rice. All very fresh and delicious. Served with Orion beer, which was kinda meh. The bill only came to 3000, a great deal with the yen being much weaker against the $ these days.



Yunangi restaurant

I walked back to the hotel along Kokusai-Dori, lined with neon, shops selling snake wine and toad purses, and restaurants. I came across a place selling crepes and just had to get one, though that only left me with 90¥ out of the 6000 I'd gotten at the ATM earlier.




Kitsch


Crepe
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Old Nov 30, 2014, 1:03 pm
  #26  
 
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Originally Posted by CMK10
Very enjoyable report, you made Bucharest look quite interesting, I might have to check it out next time I'm in Europe.
I'm quite interested too, Romania is sounds more and more desirable as a detination to me but I am finding it hard to haul myself past the stereotypes. Nice to see Belgrade too, which is also somewhere that interests me. All in all it's a very enjoyable report
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Old Nov 30, 2014, 9:13 pm
  #27  
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Nov 30, 2014
Flight: Naha, Japan (OKA) to Seoul-Incheon, South Korea (ICN); Asiana 767 Y
Flight: Seoul-Incheon, South Korea (ICN) to Dallas, TX (DFW); American 772 F
Flight: Dallas, TX (DFW) to Austin, TX (AUS); American M80 F

I still had the morning free to explore Naha. My flight to Seoul was supposed to depart at 1PM but I checked the schedule and it had been changed to 1:20. I still wanted to head to the airport about 11AM or so. I checked out of the hotel and dropped my bags and headed out about 8:30. I walked down Kokusai-Dori, much quieter this morning as many shops were not yet open. I was heading towards Tsuboya pottery street/museum and on the lookout for an ATM. Usually in Japan the only ATMs that work with foreign cards are at the airport or at Japan Post. I passed by one Japan Post office but it wasn't yet open.

I wandered down one of the covered shopping arcades, which were just starting to open. The museum was nearby but didn't open until 10:00. I wandered down some of the surrounding streets, which were lined with shops selling pottery. The shops had the traditional lion dog ornaments (shisa - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shisa) as well as plates, cups, etc. I tried finding another Japan Post ATM without success so eventually just went back to the hotel to rest a bit, was very thirsty after walking in the humidity but I couldn't find any vending machines that only took 90Y. I tried checking in online for my Asiana flight but it wouldn't generate my boarding passes.

Covered shopping arcade




Tsuboya Pottery museum

I 'creatively' repacked my bags so I could fit everying in my jacket and carryon bag then headed to the airport. I would be connecting to American Airlines on a separate ticket and wanted to avoid going through immigration at Incheon if possible. The monorail stops at the domestic terminal only so it is a bit of a walk to the international terminal (I'm sure there is a transfer bus too). I checked in for my Asiana flight with no problems then went through security. The international terminal is pretty sparse. There was a contract lounge but it was only for guests in J, they did not accept *A Gold or Platinums or even Priority Pass. We left on time for the 2h20m flight to Seoul-Incheon. They served a meal enroute, stirfry with soba noodles. I watched the movie 'Her'.

Asiana Y OKA-ICN

It was raining as we arrived into Incheon airport. I had already checked in online for my American flight but wasn't able to print out my boarding passes. I had checked my flight and it was looking oversold, 0's throughout all classes. At the transfer desk they let me through after showing them my Tripit app. The American flight left out of the remote concourse so I grabbed a Starbucks before heading down to the train. Once through that mess I headed toward the lounge. Apparently AA subcontracts out the Asiana lounge instead of the Cathay Pacific Lounge which is only open a few hrs a day. I still didn't have a boarding pass, but they let me in and I was able to get a boarding pass printed in their business center.

I headed down to the gate about 5:15PM. I asked if they needed to see my passport and they told me the flight was oversold and to get a new boarding pass. There was a lady in front of me, DYKWIA'ing that she was going to make that flight today. Then my turn at the counter and they were strongly trying to get me to volunteer to take a bump. I said sure if they'd put me on Asiana/United through San Francisco to Austin. They wouldn't do that, instead she hands me a boarding pass and said 'I upgraded you'. First Class op-up, Score! They kept asking for volunteers though, we didn't even start boarding until 5:45 for our 6PM departure and didn't end up departing until 6:15.

I hadn't flown AA Flagship First in a long while and I think they're still the same seats. My screen was broken with a piece of tape 'DO NOT STOW' written on it. The screens are sadly very tiny for what they should be in First class these days. I changed into the PJ's and watched a few movies until the meal service ended, finishing with a butterscotch sundae. I then slept most of the rest of the flight, waking up about 2h30m before arrival in Dallas. I had just enough time to watch a Korean/English hitman movie before we arrived in Dallas 15 minutes late, and I originally only had 1h25m connection. They had a 'Express Connection' boarding pass waiting for me at the jetway.








AA F ICN-DFW

I was one of the first ones off the plane, but there was another plane de-boarding at the next gate so there was a crowd of people headed to immigration. This is where my Global Entry/Precheck paid off as I was through immigration, customs, and caught the SkyTrain from D36 to C24 (about as far away in gates as you can get) within 30 minutes. The flight to Austin was completely full so I'm glad I made that connection otherwise I might have been stuck in Dallas for the night!

Last edited by hauteboy; Dec 1, 2014 at 11:27 am
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Old Dec 1, 2014, 10:37 pm
  #28  
 
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What a fascinating itinerary... RTW from US via E.Europe and Okinawa out of all places, using all 3 alliances! This is insane, fascinating, and I'm envious. Thanks a lot for sharing!

Btw I somehow never got the memo that KLM now serves FUK. I recall that they did Sapporo for a period of time a while back. Hope this FUK flight stays.
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Old Dec 2, 2014, 2:28 am
  #29  
 
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Interesting report, thanks hauteboy. Would you rate Okinawa as worth making the trek to from the rest of Japan? I'm slightly fascinated by it but I can't quite articulate why. It also has a reputation for being not all that interesting, and chiefly a place for Japanese to escape the cold without leaving the country. Would be interesting to get your take on that.

Nice work on the op-up on AA - but my god what a miserable, dismal old First Class product that is. Do people really pay for this? And that sad, sad food. Yikes.
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Old Dec 2, 2014, 8:08 am
  #30  
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I thought Okinawa was worth it... it was practically steamy compared with Eastern Europe. I actually wish I'd had more time as basically all I saw was parts of Naha. There's a pretty awesome aquarium on the northern part of the island I would have loved to have seen. It's also a separate entry on the Traveler's Century Club list, if you're into that thing


.
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