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From Sussex to Antarctica-a bucket list item ticked!

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From Sussex to Antarctica-a bucket list item ticked!

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Old Dec 13, 2014, 5:49 pm
  #46  
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What a great report.

And what a great travel agent! ^ ^
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Old Dec 13, 2014, 6:01 pm
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Great trip report, thanks for sharing. What's next on the bucket list?
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Old Dec 14, 2014, 4:31 am
  #48  
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Thanks for the kind remarks, there's still more to come!
Next up- well, we still have to sail on Le Soleal, so maybe Croatian coast/Greece/Turkey depending on her itinerary.
Next bucket list item? Me- the Northern lights, other half- the Galapagos,possibly with Silverseas.Planning will begin after Christmas...
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Old Dec 14, 2014, 7:39 am
  #49  
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We cross the Drake, it's not too bad-although plenty of empty dinner tables implies many are suffering,but as experienced sailors, we just find it "sporty". The waiters won't allow you to walk across the dining room without holding on to your arm-and at the lunch buffet they insist on carrying your plate in case of spillage-I've never seen a cruise ship that has the tables and chairs chained to the floors before!
Next morning, other half is feeling a little under the weather, and tries to blame the sea state-I blame the numerous Long Island Iced Teas he drank after dinner....
As we cross the Antarctic convergence the temperature drops-and we start to see ice-and our first iceberg in the distance-exciting!

I stroll around Silver Explorer a little, to be honest, she's looking a little tatty round the edges- not what I expected from the much vaunted Silverseas brand...think of a country house hotel that's a little past it's best, the odd stained carpet, bit of peeling paint,rust marks on the window frames etc. Still, she has a hard life.
Our first sight of land is the South Shetland Islands,and boy, are they barren and inhospitable-just black rock and white ice-

Capt Golubev decided to give us a treat-a real close up and personal with an iceberg,he circles Silver Explorer right around it- how about this for a view from the bed?

Next stop, our first land fall in Antarctica is Mikkelsen Harbour and Cierva Cove. We are on the earlycall ashore, boarding Zodiacs around 8.30, we swelter in the lobby while the Zodiacs are loaded..
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 6:14 am
  #50  
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Originally Posted by no longer atc
Great!
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 8:33 am
  #51  
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Damn, just typed out the next 3 days worth of the voyage and my computer dumped it all!!!!
Well, I can't type it all again,so maybe I'll just let the photos do the talking!

Too warm for coats etc in the Antarctic summer- a glorious day sitting quietly letting the penguins approach us. The silence and sheer majesty of the scenery brought home to us just how lucky we were to be there.

Ice melting in the summer sun. Would have loved to hike up the mountain with the others, but a pending hip replacement scuppered that- the slide down penguin-style looked great fun!

Next up? Port Lockroy, the British base, and home to the famous penguin post office! Silver Explorer was pushed hard into the sea ice to stop her swinging around in the really strong wind-the weather had taken a turn for the worse.

I had emailed the staff there before we left the UK,asking if there was anything I could bring them- newspapers and magazines was the answer- I duly brought a load, along with a Thorntons chocolate advent calendar, which they were delighted with! We looked at the museum, and bought and posted our postcards-we are still waiting for them to arrive, via the Falklands!
Back onboard, and it's a special Thanksgiving dinner. We take our seats and enjoy our starters-then the Captain comes on the PA- for the first time in 3 years, he believes the ice is strong enough for a disembarkation onto the sea ice, but first, he'll need to drive Silver Explorer further into it-how exciting! He guns the motors, and rams us up into the ice pack! Dinner is abandoned and we hurtle back to the cabin to gear up for an excursion onto the ice! It's wild out there- horizontal snow, and a 60kt wind, but what fun!! We dance around on the sea ice, and take the photo op pretending to pull the ship into the ice pack!






An atmosphere of merriment pervades all when we climb back onboard to finish our turkey dinners, kept expertly warm by the kitchen staff, an the bar is busier than usual this evening- they kindly make me (far too many!) Espresso martinis with decaff, although after half a dozen I doubt the caffeine would have kept me awake anyway! We are last to leave the bar again...after a wonderful but exhausting day.
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 8:58 am
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I am thoroughly enjoying your report. Do you have speakers onboard the ship? A library of videos about Antarcttica?

For others reading along, we went to see the documentary Antarctica: A Year on Ice yesterday. Landmark is showing it in several cities. It was fascinating, documenting what it was like to live on Antarctica for 12 months including the 4 months when sun is never seen. I recommend it.
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 10:57 am
  #53  
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Originally Posted by SanDiego1K
I am thoroughly enjoying your report. Do you have speakers onboard the ship? A library of videos about Antarcttica?

For others reading along, we went to see the documentary Antarctica: A Year on Ice yesterday. Landmark is showing it in several cities. It was fascinating, documenting what it was like to live on Antarctica for 12 months including the 4 months when sun is never seen. I recommend it.
Thank you kind sir!
Yes, they have a staff of experts that travel with the ship,who do lectures each day- we had a botanist, several marine biologists, a geologist, an expert in Antarctic exploration history ( young kiwi girl who looked about 14 but sure knew her stuff!) and a professional photographer for tips on making the most of the many photo ops! There is also a small but fairly comprehensive library onboard, as well as an "unofficial" library in one of the lounges consisting of books left behind by previous pax.
There is still more to come, it's difficult deciding which photos to post as they are all stunning-the scenery makes it so easy.
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 12:27 pm
  #54  
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Ooh,ooh, I forgot to say- after our excursion on the ice came the tricky bit-Capt Gobulev had to extricate Silver Explorer from said ice-he put the engines into reverse and struggled to get us out- after about 20mins of the ships engines revving madly, and the boat wiggling from side to side, we suddenly shot backwards and the eyes of the lady sitting opposite me at the dinner table went as wide as saucers-I turned around just in time in to see the ice/rock shelf looming in the windows of the dining room! There was the most enormous crashing,scraping sound- we had hit something-hard!
Speculation was rife as to whether damage had occured, the crew were all keeping quiet,but it gave us something to gossip about in the bar that night!
Next day sees us approaching Deception Island, a caldera, and reputedly one of the safest natural harbours in the world. We arrive via Neptunes Bellows..

Mad dogs and Englishmen...


We garb up for the trip ashore-making the (not too difficult) decision whether to wear swimming costumes under the thermals, as there was talk of a "polar plunge" opportunity,as I had left my warm weather gear in the Sheraton back as EZE it was an easy get-out for me!
Deception Island is home to Whalers' Bay- so named because... well, you are all smart people I'm sure you can guess how it got it's name! We stroll over to the abandoned airstrip-but there's not much to be seen,so head back over to the beach. There's many old huts, semi collapsed,and huge derelict whaling gear-blubber boilers, steel whale oil holding tanks etc, all rusting away.See the black volcanic sand?

And the abandoned British base...

One of the staff asks if I am doing the polar plunge swim-I explain about my swimming gear,and she points out I must have thermals on, why not swim in those, she puts the idea into my head....
It's -1C, with a stiff wind,so goodness knows what the sea temperature and windchill are , but I think to myself, I'll regret it if I don't do it, and I'll probably never get the opportunity to swim in the Antarctic ever again....
I start to remove items of clothing,and Mark looks at me as if I've gone mad-and then he joins in with the disrobing! He casually mentions to the onshore paramedic that he had heart surgery only a few months ago- and she suddenly looks worried! Oh well, here goes....

Yes, I kept my fur hat on! Yes, it was cold,yes they do shrink in the cold says Mark.I tried to say something rather unladylike as I exited the water,but it was SO cold it had taken my breath away and all I could utter was "F,F,F" over and over! Getting dressed again was the worst bit-the windchill was fierce,and I believe the feeling is just returning to my extremities now.We were whisked back to the ship in smart order, and Pupu was there with his hot toddy for us-the first polar plungers of the season. I was right,over dinner there were many folk saying they wished they had done it after all.
Last trip ashore was Half Moon Island, a colony of Chinstrap penguins reside here, and we were lucky enough to see some Crabeater and Weddell seals.

A very snotty nosed Weddell seal!


Chinstraps..


Stunning view from here...
After cheering one of the fellow guests who poposed to his girlfriend while ashore, we head back- to be greeted by the most marvellous sight, a pair of Humpback whales had swum over to look at the ship- and they stayed for around 45 minutes! Crazy Ivan the skipper kept Silver Explorer on station very quietly, and the whales snoozed peacefully alongside us.

The money shot....

And a stunner of a photo before we start the long haul home...

You may have noticed some of my pics are pretty poor quality, they are the ones taken on my tablet-sorry! Next up, the trip back to Sussex, via USH, EZE, FCO and LGW...
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 1:36 pm
  #55  
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We find out over dinner, that the engineers had dived on the hull while we were ashore,and had discovered "minor" damage to the rudders caused by the ice/rock collision.Mark had been convinced since yesterday that she was not sailing true, and indeed, when we visited the bridge there was a pronounced throttle stagger situation-Mark said he used to have to fly the odd jumbo like that, more power on one side, as some of them were a little "bent" and wouldn't fly straight. We tried quizzing the officer of the watch but he was very tight lipped.
We head off back across the Drake, at a somewhat reduced speed, and there is a stiff breeze....

A sort of melancholy sets in, everyone is sad to be heading home...plus the Drake is doing it's stuff to those of a delicate nature...

We arrive back in Ushuaia, and have the day at leisure,with a trip to the National park for those that would like to- we spend the day packing instead, having seen Ushuaia on the way out-it seems so long ago now!
The following day,we are bussed to USH and loaded onto a LAN A320 charter to AEP. Amazingly, we are served a hot lunch-our first time ever on LAN, the crew explain the charterer, Silverseas requested a hot lunch was served. We arrive in AEP around 5pm, and there is a farce in the baggage hall, with the reclaim belt number changing repeatedly-with the bags eventually arriving elsewhere a good 45 mins later! A taxi to the Sheraton, and we are reunited with our summer clothes. No luck with a Club upgrade this time though
We have a lovely dinner at Las Lilas, a really good steakhouse in Buenos Aires, but there was just so much of it! We stroll back to the Sheraton, and after checking in for our AZ flt home, and bagging 3D and H I think (the 2 centre honeymoon seats in row 3) we have an early night.
We taxi to EZE around noon, after leaving a note for the BA skipper who is operating the 777 service to LHR, advising him one of our fellow cruise mates (and a retired BA 744 skipper to boot) is travelling on his flight home, just in case there are any comfy seats spare. AZ check in is prompt and friendly, we are given our boarding cards and directed to the Aerolineas Argentinas club lounge.
It's not much to get excited about, but decent enough for an hour or two, with free wifi. Food mainly sandwiches, cakes, crisps etc. but plenty of wine available. I help myself to Earl grey tea- heaven!

Lounge-dull, but efficient.
Our ride home awaits- the AZ B777

We settle in, and I take a few quick snaps before the cabin fills...

The obligatory legroom shot!

Lunch is served promptly after drinks,by a very happy crew who work well together.The menu is....

Appetizer-
Italian raw ham with celery and orange.
Escarole,olive and tomato pie.

Lunch-
First course.
Pasta with salted cod and pitted olives,topped with Pecorino cheese.
Pasta with Pdo San Marzano tomatoes and basil. (Delicious,simple but really top quality ingredients)

Entrees-

Beef medallions in white wine sauce topped with potato rosette.
Breaded seafish fillet cutlet with tomato sauce and eggplant.

Sides-

Sauteed spinach.
Sauteed courgettes.
Rosemary potatoes.
Green salad.

Bread- a selection.

Dessert-

Italian mini pastry selection.
Fresh seasonal fruit.

Lunch was very tasty,and washed down with Ciro Bianco Ippolito 1845, and some more Franciacorta prosecco.
We settled down to sleep,

Not a particularly good pic, but you get the idea!
Unlike the outbound crew, these guys close all the blinds before night falls. We have the usual Boeing sauna in the middle of the night, and then all the lights are put on-yet another meal service! A midnight snack of open sandwiches, slices of pizza,cake etc..I'd rather stay asleep thanks!!
Breakfast isn't much to get excited about, pastries,bread rolls and fruit, teas and coffees. We land around an hour early-which isns't great for us as we already had over 4 hours to kill in FCO-make that 5!
Baggage reclaim is incredibly fast,with ours the first off, so we change terminals for Easyjet-but it's too early to check in and we are told to come back in 45mins, but also to cheat and use the Speedy boarding check in, as "I don't think it's fair for you to have to queue twice!" Thanks Easyjet.
We do as bidded and grab a coffee and begin our wait. Sometime later, I use the free airport wifi, and discover the Easyjet has not yet left LGW-bummer, a 90 min delay to add to our wait. By now we are feeling pretty tired and the 6hr plus wait drags. The gate begins to fill, looks like a pretty full load today,and as we board the bus the gate staff are taking hand luggage from those who have too much- we escape their attention and board too discover we are shoehorned into the fnal row-ouch! The crew are valiantly trying to stow all the hand baggage, and we chat to them about the cause of the delay. When they discover we are ex BA staff, they tip us the nod that a row further ahead is due to be empty- and promptly get us to move there. A little more space, 3 seats between the two of us,and we are grateful for that..
The flight passes quickly and uneventfully, we are soon at LGW and in a taxi home, to find what mayhem awaits!
(As it happened,none, if the kids did have a wild party, they cleaned up well!)
Hope you enjoyed my first trip report, thanks for reading.

Last edited by no longer atc; Sep 14, 2015 at 1:23 pm Reason: sp
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 1:48 pm
  #56  
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You write a great story and take some mesmerizing pictures. Thank you for investing the time. I've shared the link with a couple friends who are headed south a year from now. I know they will enjoy a peep at what awaits them.
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 2:05 pm
  #57  
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Brilliant pictures.

I even want to go for an ice water swim!
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 2:24 pm
  #58  
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Aww, thanks guys!
My camera is only a little point n shoot digital, but a fairly decent one. You can see the difference with the ones taken on my tablet. Glad you enjoyed it x.
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 2:40 pm
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Very interesting report from a place few people travel to.
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Old Dec 15, 2014, 4:14 pm
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Excellent report, thanks for sharing. Great photos, observations. I appreciate the time that went into the report.
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