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Planes, boats, buses, cars, and a train - Burma Revealed

Planes, boats, buses, cars, and a train - Burma Revealed

Old Oct 11, 2014, 11:29 pm
  #16  
 
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Mind sharing which travel/tour company you used?
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Old Oct 12, 2014, 2:52 am
  #17  
 
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Love that trip report. Can't wait to visit Myanmar again. There is something special about this country and the people who live there

Last edited by h1ghfly3r; Oct 13, 2014 at 2:56 pm Reason: I phone auto correct was wrong :-)
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Old Oct 12, 2014, 3:04 am
  #18  
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Originally Posted by exilencfc
Fascinating stuff Moomba. And that does look like some tasty food
Thanks exilencfc

Originally Posted by jasonz9238
Mind sharing which travel/tour company you used?
The tour company is Travel Indochina

Originally Posted by h1ghfly3r
Love that trip report. Can't wait to visit Myanmar again. There is something special about this country a day the people who live there
Thanks h1ghfly3r. I agree a lasting impression I got was how lovely and genuinely friendly the people of Myanmar are.
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Old Oct 12, 2014, 3:12 am
  #19  
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Day 3 - Bagan Sightseeing

A more respectable 8am start today that had us performing a 15 minute re-acquaintance session with a bicycle. We cycled off on our journey to the village of Minnathu. The tour company supports the local community with a donation and the townspeople were more than happy to invite us into their homes.


Arriving at Minnathu village


Farmer & cart at Minnathu village

It had been a particularly dry year and the water catchment area was not looking too good for the end of the wet season.


Empty water catchment at Minnathu village

First stop was the local carpenter who was making a cartwheel and also some wall coverings.


Carpenter at Minnathu village


Carpenter at Minnathu village


Carpenter at Minnathu village

A couple of the local septuagenarians were smoking on some cheroots nearby.


Ladies smoking cheroot at Minnathu village


Ladies smoking cheroot at Minnathu village

Next stop was the blacksmith where could see the bellows and old style tools.


Blacksmith furnace at Minnathu village


Blacksmith bellows at Minnathu village

The village had no electricity as such all the work was done manually and cooking was done in kitchens beside the houses cooked on open fire only. Water also has to be carted from the wells to take up to the homes.


Carting water to home at Minnathu village

We were able to see some of the local life including people collecting water, smoking cheroots, playing and generally going about their life. We stopped to see a farmer and his wife who grew peanuts that they ground into oil. The oil was ground using a big mortar and pestle type arrangement that was turned by an animal pulling the stone around to grind the nuts.


Peanut crusher at Minnathu village


Chopping fodder for cattle at Minnathu village

We stepped inside the house and were able to ask the family about their life, family etc. This couple were extremely proud of the fact that one of their daughters had qualified as a teacher and was teaching primary students in a village about 15 minutes away.


Home visit at Minnathu village


Home visit at Minnathu village


Minnathu village


Minnathu village

After the village visit we hopped the bikes and headed to the Dhammayazika pagoda. This one was unique in that it was hexagonal rather than four sided.

The normal practice is to have four sides each representing the four past Bhudda at each of the cardinal points. This one has a fifth Bhudda image representing the future Bhudda. The pagoda was undergoing renovation with the gold leaf being replaced. The black spires were covered with a lacquer that was layered on so that the gold leaf will stick.


Dhammayazika Pagoda


Dhammayazika Pagoda


Dhammayazika Pagoda


Dhammayazika Pagoda


Dhammayazika Pagoda

We then rode back into town where we ditched the bikes and made our way back to the hotel for a break. After having a bit of a refresh we then went to a local lacquer production facility. We were able to see how the base for the plates, bowls etc were made from bamboo strips before being smoothed and then lacquered.


Lacquer production – making bowls from bamboo

Weaving horsehair into the bamboo framework made some of the pieces more flexible. The lacquer is then applied in many layers and patterns etched into the lacquer and then a new lacquer of a different colour is layered on to make the finished product.


Lacquer production – Applying lacquer


Lacquer production – Applying gold leaf


Lacquer production – Weaving in horsehair


Lacquer production – Etching lacquer


Lacquer production – Drying cellar

This chap was using a manual lathe to smooth the bamboo bowl before the lacquer is applied.


Lacquer production – Manual lathe


Lacquer production – manual lathe

After the lacquer stop we dropped in on a local village school to see the kids in action and learnt about their school life. With both the village visit and the local school visit the tour company make a donation to the village and school and we were also encouraged to buy pencils, paper etc to give to the headmistress of the school. I was interested to learn that these primary school aged children study five major subjects. The learn maths, geography, history, Burmese and English.


Village school visit


Village school visit


Village school visit


Village school visit

After a lunch stop we then headed down to the mighty Ayerawaddy River via a local market stop, as we were early.


Local Market rice seller


Local market street

We took a short ride on a boat down to an inlet where we hopped off and hiked up to the Kyauk Gu U Min temple set into the hill. Inside there were caves where the monk used to live.


Kyauk Gu U Min Temple


Kyauk Gu U Min Temple


Kyauk Gu U Min Temple


Kyauk Gu U Min Temple

Back on the boat we headed back up the river toward Bagan watching the sunset off to our starboard side. It was a very relaxing was to end the day.


Sunset cruise back up the Ayeyarwaddy River


Sunset cruise back up the Ayeyarwaddy River


Sunset cruise back up the Ayeyarwaddy River


Sunset cruise back up the Ayeyarwaddy River


Sunset cruise back up the Ayeyarwaddy River


Sunset cruise back up the Ayeyarwaddy River

The group decided we would like to go to a local puppet show with a lacquer tray dinner to round up the very long day of sightseeing.


Bagan puppet show lacquer plate dinner


Bagan puppet show


Bagan puppet show


Bagan puppet show


Bagan puppet show

When we arrived back at the hotel the houseboys had decorated our beds.


Decorated bed at Thazin Garden Hotel Bagan

Tomorrow on to Mandalay.

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Last edited by Moomba; Oct 16, 2014 at 4:07 pm
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Old Oct 12, 2014, 12:02 pm
  #20  
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Day 4 - Bagan to Mandalay & Sightseeing

Another early start today with a 05:30 wake up call. We ate breakfast and headed back out to the airport for our 07:40 flight to Mandalay.

The airport experience was pretty swift although the promised free wifi failed to deliver. There were no seat assignments for this flight and it was a continuation of the flight we had originally taken from Yangon and continued on with the same flight number.

Air Mandalay (operated by Air KBZ)
Flight 6T 0401 NYU-MDL Seat Not Assigned (Economy)
Aircraft: ATR72-200
Departure time: 07:40


The flight was on at ATR72-200 with much tighter seat pitch than the previous flight. The crew managed to do a drinks service offering juice, tea or coffee and then a round of sweets in the short 20 minute flight.

We touched down at Mandalay at 08:01 and after collecting our luggage we met our new local guide before starting our morning activities.

Today we first made our way to Ava the ancient capital of Burma. This entailed a short boat taxi ride to Ava.


River crossing

We were taken on cart and horse to visit the 19th century teak wood Bagaya monastery.



Bagaya monastery


Bagaya monastery


Bagaya monastery


Bagaya monastery


Monks studying at Bagaya monastery


Bagaya monastery


Bagaya monastery


Bagaya monastery

After this we visited the leaning tour of the Singyone Fort before that was leaning at a jaunty angle.


Singyone Fort

Finally we stopped off at the Maha Aungmye Bonzan brick and stucco monastery that was built up on stilts to avoid flooding from the river.


Our Cart & Driver


Maha Aungmye Bonzan monastery


Maha Aungmye Bonzan monastery


Maha Aungmye Bonzan monastery


Maha Aungmye Bonzan monastery


Under the Maha Aungmye Bonzan monastery


Maha Aungmye Bonzan monastery

Today more than all our other days on this trip we were constantly hounded by locals selling tourist tat. We were a captive audience and they were waiting for us as we got off the taxi boat. They then followed us around our mornings touring on bikes and only let us have some peace when we were inside one of the attractions or at the restaurant at lunch.

After a spot of lunch we were then taking into Mandalay city to our hotel to freshen up for a couple of hours before our afternoon touring.
The afternoon began with a visit to the Royal Palace, that was a replica built in 1999. The original had been destroyed during WWII.


Moat around Royal Palace


Royal Palace


Royal Palace


Royal Palace


Artefacts at Royal Palace


Artefacts at Royal Palace


Artefacts at Royal Palace


Artefacts at Royal Palace

After a stop there we travelled on to the Golden Palace Monastery that had intricate carvings in the teak walls.


Golden Palace Monastery


Golden Palace Monastery


Golden Palace Monastery


Golden Palace Monastery


Golden Palace Monastery


Golden Palace Monastery


Golden Palace Monastery


Golden Palace Monastery


Golden Palace Monastery

The final stop on the official itinerary was the Kuthodaw monastery that is home to the worlds largest book. Made from 729 marble slabs etched on both sides with scriptures from Buddhist teachings.


Kuthodaw Monastery


Kuthodaw Monastery


Model of site at Kuthodaw Monastery


Kuthodaw Monastery

After we had walked around the site we made an unofficial stop at a local market that only existed around this time as a precursor to some religious holiday. It was quite a site seeing a funfair with the old pagoda in the background.

We were able to sample some of the tasty street food on offer as we wandered along the roadside stalls.


Stalls at Festival Market


Stalls at Festival Market


Stalls at Festival Market


Stalls at Festival Market


Stalls at Festival Market


Stalls at Festival Market


Stalls at Festival Market


Stalls at Festival Market


Stalls at Festival Market


Stalls at Festival Market


Stalls at Festival Market


Stalls at Festival Market


Tonight we were able to do our own thing and ended up going to a local Thai-Burmese restaurant for some lovely grub. It was quite an event as the lights kept going out during the meal. Also the heavens opened up on us just before we were about to walk back to the hotel so our hosts booked a taxi for us.
Tomorrow the jade market and lunch with the Nuns.

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Last edited by Moomba; Oct 16, 2014 at 3:57 pm
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Old Oct 12, 2014, 4:03 pm
  #21  
 
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Wow, what a fantastic trip report. Great photos and the trip looks amazing so far! Thanks.
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Old Oct 13, 2014, 12:29 am
  #22  
 
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Originally Posted by Moomba


Thanks avneeshj. I haven't been to India (yet) but many of the towns in Myanmar reminded me of Thailand.


It's funny you say that because originally I had typed that it looked like someplace right between Thailand and India!
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Old Oct 13, 2014, 2:05 pm
  #23  
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Originally Posted by halfcape
Wow, what a fantastic trip report. Great photos and the trip looks amazing so far! Thanks.
Thanks halfcape. I am glad you are enjoying it.

Originally Posted by avneeshj
It's funny you say that because originally I had typed that it looked like someplace right between Thailand and India!
Yet somehow still manages to be its own place. ^
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Old Oct 13, 2014, 2:14 pm
  #24  
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Day 5 - Mandalay and Sagaing Hills

Today we had a lie in and met at 08:30 for a short drive to the local jade markets.

The street was lined with people selling large blocks of jade and smaller pieces that had been cut. They draw circles on the blocks to indicate how many bangles could be made from each slab.


Jade Market


Jade Market


Jade Market


Jade Market

We could see local workmen using pedal powered machines to polish pieces of jade using bamboo as the abrasive and more modern sand blocks.


Jade Market polishing the jade


Jade Market polishing the jade


Jade Market polishing the jade

We then went inside the complex where the wholesalers and retailers traded the jade. There are reported to be 40000 people working in the jade market and it was quite mad wandering around watching the goings on.


Jade Market


Jade Market


Jade Market

The car park on the way out was just a sea of scooters.


Jade Market car park


A bit of repair work?


Busker Mandalay style

Back on the bus we headed back out to the Sagaing Hills where many monasteries and pagodas dotted the area. We visited one of the local nunneries where we donated the meal for some of the nuns.


Nunnery


Nunnery


Nunnery


Nunnery


Nunnery


Nunnery


Nunnery

After they ate we were able to ask them some questions and they in turn asked us some in return. We were then provided lunch as well before saying goodbye to our lovely hosts.


Nunnery - farewell

Next up was the 200 year old 1.2 kilometre long teak bridge of U Bein. This bridge is used daily by the people who live on the other side to commute to work on the mainland. There were many fishermen standing in the water either side with either rod and hook or others who dived down to catch the fish by hand.


U Bein Bridge


U Bein Bridge


U Bein Bridge


U Bein Bridge


U Bein Bridge


U Bein Bridge


U Bein Bridge


U Bein Bridge


U Bein Bridge


U Bein Bridge


U Bein Bridge


U Bein Bridge

On the way back into Mandalay we stopped a local workshop where the workers pounded gold into the gold leaf people buy to attach to sacred items in the temples and pagodas.

The gold is pounded by hand in three stages between sheets of bamboo paper for over 6 hours in total before it is thin enough.


The steps in making gold leaf


Pounding gold leaf


Pounding gold leaf


Pouding gold leaf time for a breather

During their break one of the guys brought over the bundle he was pounding and we could feel how hot it had become.

A few of us were dropped off at the local flower market by the river before making our way back up to the hotel. One of the local monks wanted to practice his English so he walked along with us for part of the way back.


Flower market


Flower market


Flower market


Flower market


Flower market

Tomorrow another plane journey to Heho and is that giant spider going to eat me?

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Old Oct 13, 2014, 3:02 pm
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If you have the time, you should visit a local street vendor where they serve tea. I liked the spirit and the vibe. An the tea was amazing...
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Old Oct 14, 2014, 12:56 pm
  #26  
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Originally Posted by h1ghfly3r
If you have the time, you should visit a local street vendor where they serve tea. I liked the spirit and the vibe. An the tea was amazing...
We sample the local tea in a tea house on our first day in Yangon. I am not a fan of the sweet tea the locals drink but the green tea served there was lovely.
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Old Oct 14, 2014, 1:02 pm
  #27  
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Day 6 - Mandalay to Kalaw

Another early start leaving the hotel at 06:30 for the long journey to the airport around 45 minutes from the city centre.

Security was swift and painless and there was a secondary at the bus gate but this again was no problem.

The flight was another bus gate and another ATR-72-200 aircraft.

Yangon Air
Flight YH 0918 MDL-HEH Seat Not Assigned (Economy)
Aircraft: ATR72-200
Departure time: 08:35


We pushed back at 08:20 and landed in HeHo in the Shan state around 22 minutes later after the crew providing a drinks service on the way.

After collecting bags we all hopped in our bus for the long drive to Pindaya around 2 hours away.

At Pindaya we visited a mutli chambered caves complex that housed thousands of Buddha images. The legendary tale explains that several princesses were held captive in these caves by a giant spider. A prince happened along and slay the giant spider with a bow and arrow. There is a model of this feat of bravery at the entrance to the cave complex.


Pindaya Caves


Pindaya Caves

The caves are quite high up a hill and the views from the entrance level are quite lovely.


Pindaya Caves


Pindaya Caves

Inside the caves there are hundreds of images of Buddha in the many chambers that make up the caves.


Pindaya Caves

Many of the Buddha images inside had plaques with the names of the donors who paid for that image.


Pindaya Caves


Pindaya Caves


Pindaya Caves


Pindaya Caves


Pindaya Caves


Pindaya Caves


Pindaya Caves


Pindaya Caves


After this we stopped at a local paper production workshop that made paper from the bark of the mulberry tree and set into it leaves and flowers. We also saw how umbrellas were made from bamboo and covered with the paper.


Shan Paper Making

The mulberry bark is pounded into a pulp that is then mixed with water.


Shan Paper Making


Shan Paper Making

The pulp and water is then spread evenly over the backing frame.


Shan Paper Making

Then the flower petals and leaves are placed in position on the frame under the watchful eye of the daughter of one of the paper makers.


Shan Paper Making


Shan Paper Making


Shan Paper Making

The excess water is drained away and the whole frame is put into the sun to dry.

Shan Paper Making

Once dry the paper is peeled off the frame and can be used for making lamp shades, envelopes and note pads and umbrellas.


Shan Paper Making


Making Umbrellas


Makng Umbrellas

We then had lunch at a lovely restaurant overlooking the lake.


Lunch Venue


Lunch Venue


Lunch Venue

Back in the bus we drove for another hour and a half to our resting place for the next two nights Kalaw. This town was high in the hills and was significantly cooler than the rest of the trip and was a welcome respite.

We had some free time to wander the town before we all met up for a bowl of the local Shan noodles for dinner. On my walk into town many of the people on the street smiled at me and said Mingalabar. Generally speaking this was the norm for Myanmar where friendly smiling faces seem to be commonplace.

Tomorrow getting personal with a rather large retiree.


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Last edited by Moomba; Oct 16, 2014 at 4:00 pm
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Old Oct 14, 2014, 1:45 pm
  #28  
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Day 8 - Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp

Another lie in today before we motored our way down from the hills to the valley below were we had a great day at the Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp.

On the walk up the drive we encountered another spider that wasnt quite as big as the one we saw the day before.


Spider on the drive

The owner of the camp told us how the animals in their care were ex working elephants from logging camps and the like. They look after these mighty beasts thanks to the likes of groups like us.


Main House Green Hill Valley


Main House Green Hill Valley


Main House Green Hill Valley

We were taken down to the camp where we were able to feed the elephants some bamboo and bananas.


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp - feeding the elephants


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp - feeding the elephants


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp - feeding the elephants


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp - feeding the elephants


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp - feeding the elephants


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp - feeding the elephants

After this we changed into the local trousers to avoid getting our own clothes wet. Another of the initiatives of the camp is that everyone plants a tree, which was our next task.


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp tree planting


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp tree planting


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp tree planting

Next up was bath time for these giants. We walked up stream a little and were able to get up close and personal and helped the mahouts wash the elephants using the bark from the acacia tree as a scrub.


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp bath time


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp bath time


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp bath time


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp bath time


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp bath time


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp bath time


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp bath time


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp bath time


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp bath time


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp bath time


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp bath time


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp bath time

We changed back into some dry clothes and headed back up to the centre were they put on a great Indian inspired lunch for us.


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp farewell elephants


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp farewell elephants


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp farewell elephants


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp lunch with a view


Green Hill Valley Elephant Camp

After a long and winding journey back to Kalaw we were free the rest of the day to chill.

Next up ride in Upper Class on Myanmar railways


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Last edited by Moomba; Oct 19, 2014 at 3:20 pm
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Old Oct 15, 2014, 1:08 pm
  #29  
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Day 9 - Kalaw to Inle Lake

This morning saw our last breakfast at the Pine Hills Resort in Kalaw. We started the day with a visit to the local market where we were able to get some provisions to eat for lunch on the train. We pottered around the market and ended up at Everest restaurant using their wifi and having a cup of Nepalese spiced tea.

We then headed down to the station and checked on the train status. There was a 30 minute delay so we all pottered around the platform watching the goings on around the place.


Kalaw Station - waiting


Kalaw Station - waiting


Kalaw Station - waiting


Kalaw Station - waiting


Kalaw Station - waiting


Kalaw Station - waiting

A train came along but it was going in the other direction. We got to see the hustle and bustle of passengers loading and unloading and the many baskets of cabbages being carted on to the train for the onward journey.


Kalaw Station not our train


Kalaw Station not our train


Kalaw Station Virgin eat your heart out


Kalaw Station a free ride

The delay then extended again and finally we had the news that it wouldnt be here until at around 14:00. This was putting severe pressure on the rest of the day so the group decided we would bus the trip instead.

However the stationmaster then informed us they would re-jig the trains so that our one would come through first at 13:15. Sure enough it arrived within a few minutes of the expected time and we were able to get our first experience of an upper class carriage on Myanmar Railways.


Kalaw Station our train finally arrives


Upper Class Myanmar Railways


Upper Class Myanmar Railways

Ill let the pictures do the talking here. It was a slow sometimes jerky ride with the wonderful clickity-clack sound and swaying from side to side motion. We were able to watch the lush green hills and valleys pass us by. There were a lot of farmers working the land growing cabbages, corn, chokos and rice.


Our train journey


Our train journey


Our train journey


Our train journey


Our train journey

We stopped at a small town as the train loaded and unloaded passengers and goods.


Station en route


Station en route


Our train journey


Our train journey


Our train journey

We also stopped at a wee village along the way before getting off the train at Heho.


Disembarking at Heho

Here we jumped back on our bus and motored along to the Shwe Yan Pyay monastery that has oval windows a Buddha made from bamboo and a glass mosaic roof.


Shwe Yan Pyay monastery


Shwe Yan Pyay monastery


Shwe Yan Pyay monastery


Shwe Yan Pyay monastery


Shwe Yan Pyay monastery


Shwe Yan Pyay monastery


Shwe Yan Pyay monastery


Shwe Yan Pyay monastery

The heavens opened up on us just as we arrived and it continued to rain as we then made our way down to the docks at Nyaungshwe. From here our luggage went with one boat and we split into groups to take the long tail boats out to the Inle Lake Resort that would be home for the next three nights.

The heavens really opened up on us as we took off in our boats but luckily they had umbrellas supplied to help keep us dry. It didnt last long and we were able to enjoy the last ten minutes or so of the ride to the resort just as the light faded.


Longtail boat ride to our resort


Longtail boat ride to our resort


Longtail boat ride to our resort


Longtail boat ride to our resort


Longtail boat ride to our resort

At check in we were greeted with a cold towel and a glass of lemongrass iced tea. We then made for our rooms before eating dinner in the we have you trapped at our resort priced restaurant. The beer here was over 2 times the price of all other places we stayed on the trip.

Tomorrow sightseeing on the lake


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Last edited by Moomba; Oct 27, 2014 at 5:08 pm
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Old Oct 18, 2014, 12:47 am
  #30  
 
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Moomba - fabulous photos.

I was fortunate enough to visit Burma in 2010. Back then, it was still a closed society: citizens could face severe penalties for speaking freely, visiting Aung Sung Su Ki's postal resulted in the threat of severe imprisonment and there were no English signs representing the date of birth at the Shewedagon Paya.

Having said that, your photos of Bagan and Mandalay were terrific. It recognized how rich this country is in temples - even compared to the greats such as Siem Reap and Indonesia. A solid effort. ^

Originally Posted by arlflyer
As a younger traveler I think my biggest fear is there being nothing left by the time I get to all of the places I'd like to see - will the whole world be paved over with trinket shops and trampled down by the package tour groups? With information so accessible and travel so ubiquitous, it seems that the time from newly discovered to completely overheated is about 6 months these days. I'm hoping there will be places left for my generation!
Arlflyer - I don't think you have anything to worry about. I hope some of the veterans will back me on this, but each trip is different, a picture of a country in a particular part of time. The US would be different if you visited it today in 2014 as it was in 1995 in the height of the grunge revolution or in 1980 when eighties was all the range. It took Singapore 40 years to get from Third World to First and I doubt that Burma would be any exception. Play your cards right and you'll be able to return to Myanmar (after your first visit) with your children with stories of "I remember when..." A privledge indeed.
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