Snowboarding in Nagano feat. TG F and NH F
May 2, 2014, 2:35 pm
#20
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Glad you all enjoyed the photos!
May 2, 2014, 2:37 pm
#21
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Hotel Kodama and Ichinose
As I mentioned in my.previous post, I did enjoy my first day of snowboarding at Yakebitaiyama. Though for the next 4 nights we moved to the town of Ichinose, staying at Hotel Kodama which is conveniently located beside the Ichinose Family Ski Area. The first 2 nights of the stay which occurred over New Year's eve and the New Year was more expensive at ¥28,000 (~US$280) per night, while the following 2 nights costs us just ¥18,000 (~US$180) per night. However daily breakfast buffet and a set dinner was included at this rate which I found to be very good value for money. The hotel also has a hot public bath in the lobby floor though I wondered where guests might park their car at since the hotel is built to resemble those European ski lodges rather than the North American style hotels like the Westin Whistler.
Exterior of Hotel Kodama
My friend checked into the room earlier as I was still enjoying myself on the slopes and there was a shuttle bus stop just a few steps before and after the hotel but it was actually a 10-15 minute walk from the South Wing of the Prince Hotel. Hotel Kodama featured lots of dark wood from its exterior to the main lobby though it fails to exude the ambience of a western ski lodge. It was quite empty at the lobby around 5-6pm as most guests are either in the baths or resting in their room before the dinner that is served daily on the second floor at the dining rooms.
Twin room at Hotel Kodama
View from the corner room of the Ichinose Diamond ski area
Our room was a corner twin and was much more spacious than the one in Prince Hotel. Inside though the furniture was more or less the same with a side chair and coffee table along with a dressing table beside the wardrobe. The bathroom sadly was the same small size with the usual resin vanity counter and smll bathtub. It was no matter though as I had all my baths in the bath house. I do not believe the bath house uses natural hot springs but the warmth of the baths was adequate to soothe the tense muscles after a day of snowboarding.
Reception and fireplace of the Hotel Kodama
While there was free wifi in the hotel, it was constrained to areas in the lobby and the second floor smoking lounge just outside the restaurant. This meant that the bunch of us could be seen hanging out around the chairs and tables by the lobby to use the wifi for Instragram, Facebook and etc. It is at best adequate for light video streaming though streaming HD videos can be a chore as sometimes the wifi signal does not seem to be that stable.
Seating around the lobby
For the 4 days we had out breakfast and dinner there, the hotel did their best to provide a different menu every day. For breakfast it was a buffet with salads, fruits, pastries, eggs and a couple of deep-fried items. It is best to wake up early for breakfast as some of the items does not seem to be replenished late in the morning.
Japanese set meal on New Year day
Dinner is a more elaborate affair with guests seated at the table featuring their room number (which avoids the chaotic scene of the morning). A set meal is served based on the number of registered guests and kids are given children's set meal. The dinner usually consists of a sashimi or cold plate appetizer, some salad and pickles, a main entree and a special second entree which revolves around hot pots or sukiyaki. At the end there will be fruits. As such, every night guests are certain to be full and I thought it made the whole stay very value for money. Granted the food would not be on par with the high end kaiseki in some of the Japanese ryokans I went to but it is better than some so-called Japanese food elsewhere...
Hotpot dinner on the second night
And now onto the skiing part. Ichinose is perhaps the nicest base for both skiers and snowboarders since it is basically near the epicentre of where most of the action takes place. Beside the hotel is the Ichinose Family Ski Area and just opposite which can be accessed via an overhead ski bridge is the Ichinose Diamond Ski Area. Both of the ski areas around Ichinose are geared towards beginners and families with generally mild slopes and wide open terrains. One of my favourite runs here is actually the Terakoya 寺小屋 ski area which is accessed via the top of Ichinose Family quad lift. There are some flat trails in order to access the Terakoya ski area but this area is generally a lot quieter with less people since it is more or less isolated from the main Ichinose skiing area but that means the powder is better here after a fresh snow.
Chairlifts at Ichinose Family ski area
Ichinose on the left and Yakebitaiyama on the right
However the best view of the area is probably from the top of the Higashidateyama 東館山 gondola. Skiers need to head to the top of Ichinose Family or head to the exit towards Higashidateyama from Terakoya. Then they can take the gondola after skiing down to the base. The queue for the gondola is quite long though and it is a very cramped, antiquated, egg-shaped gondola. Skiers could place their skis outside but snowboarders have to bring it into the gondola which is nearly impossible. The snowboard size I was using measures 157cm and it scrapes through the roof of the gondola. Needless to say I was really uncomfortable throughout the gondola ride with 3 other Japanese skiers. The approach to the gondola is also made from metal ramps and not natural mountain terrain with lots of zig-zags. While the gondola experience leaves much to be desired, the view from the observatory was magnificent and there is a also a soba restaurant waiting to fill the stomachs of hungry skiers.
View from trail no 26 at Terakoya ski area
Ski trails connecting Ichinose to Takamagahara
Due to the gondola, the run at Higashidateyama is also one of longest and it is a run somewhere in between green and blue which is suitable for beginners who are starting to learn how to carve. The wide runs here are similar to those in Ichinose but it does have more bumps compared to Ichinose. The Higashidateyama ski area connects the Nishidateyama 西館山 and Giant ski areas with Ichinose so it can get pretty crowded in this area as well. Skier wishing to access the Takamagahara Mammoth ski area are also better off getting in from the top of Higashidateyama. Since I was staying in the Ichinose area, that was where I spent most of my snowboarding at, and I did not really venture much into the runs in Nishidateyama and Giant.
Panorama of Shiga Kogen 志賀高原
Higashidateyama gondola as seen from Takamagahara Mammoth Ski Area
Access from one ski area to another is not the easiest in Shiga Kogen and the ski areas around Ichniose lacks a gondola that brings skiers up to the top in an instant unlike in Yakebitaiyama. As such I think it is more convenient in Yakebitaiyama but the variety of terrain in Ichinose, Terakoya, and Higashidateyama would satisfy a wide range of capabilities. When I compared Shiga Kogen to Niseko and the Hirafu/Annupuri ski area, I actually prefer the expanse of terrain at Shiga Kogen. Spending a total of 4 days of snowboarding, I never got to explore all of the runs in the area but that was also because not all the runs are connected. On the other hand, the Hirafu and Annupuri ski area can easily be covered over a 4 day period.
Trees blanketed in snow at the top of Ichinose
The snow conditions are similar for both Shiga Kogen and Niseko with thick powder conditions even at the base. Shiga Kogen is very accessible for visitors arriving at Tokyo though there is no night life or aprés-ski to be had at all in the area. Unlike Niseko which has a lively night scene, this was slightlt disappointing. In terms of value for money, Shiga Kogen would be cheaper for a ski holiday since most hotels would include meals in the morning and at night. I did not regret my decision to snowboard in Shiga Kogen since it is after all a host resort for the Winter Olympics and that has got to count for something!
Taking the chairlift at Ichinose 一の瀬
Shiga Kogen also does lack a bit of an on-the-mountain dining options with the closest being the soba place at the top of Higashidateyama gondola. However that place is very small with the capability of accommodating at most 25 diners. I had lunch once at the base of Ichinose Diamond ski area just one floor below the rental area. This is in the building that can be seen directly from our room. Japanese ski resorts usually have udon, katsu or curry rice and ramen as the main course. I also had a very delicious mille crepe cake here. Another place I had my lunch was at the Hotel Khuls restaurant which is on the Ichinose Family ski area.
Curry katsu rice and mille crepe cake
Soba stand at the top of the Higashidateyama Gondola
However if I were to visit Ichinose again, I would most probably stay at the Hotel Khuls Shiga Kogen or find a lodging between the Ichinose Family and Takamagahara ski area since there are more hotels around this area with convenience stores that makes it easy to get snacks and beverages. Furthermore this part of town had more facilities and amenities for visitors and thus making it more convenient. It is also worth noting that Hotel Khuls is also a ski-in/ski-out property with its restaurant being a great place for lunch.
Dusk over Ichinose 一の瀬
Exterior of Hotel Kodama
My friend checked into the room earlier as I was still enjoying myself on the slopes and there was a shuttle bus stop just a few steps before and after the hotel but it was actually a 10-15 minute walk from the South Wing of the Prince Hotel. Hotel Kodama featured lots of dark wood from its exterior to the main lobby though it fails to exude the ambience of a western ski lodge. It was quite empty at the lobby around 5-6pm as most guests are either in the baths or resting in their room before the dinner that is served daily on the second floor at the dining rooms.
Twin room at Hotel Kodama
View from the corner room of the Ichinose Diamond ski area
Our room was a corner twin and was much more spacious than the one in Prince Hotel. Inside though the furniture was more or less the same with a side chair and coffee table along with a dressing table beside the wardrobe. The bathroom sadly was the same small size with the usual resin vanity counter and smll bathtub. It was no matter though as I had all my baths in the bath house. I do not believe the bath house uses natural hot springs but the warmth of the baths was adequate to soothe the tense muscles after a day of snowboarding.
Reception and fireplace of the Hotel Kodama
While there was free wifi in the hotel, it was constrained to areas in the lobby and the second floor smoking lounge just outside the restaurant. This meant that the bunch of us could be seen hanging out around the chairs and tables by the lobby to use the wifi for Instragram, Facebook and etc. It is at best adequate for light video streaming though streaming HD videos can be a chore as sometimes the wifi signal does not seem to be that stable.
Seating around the lobby
For the 4 days we had out breakfast and dinner there, the hotel did their best to provide a different menu every day. For breakfast it was a buffet with salads, fruits, pastries, eggs and a couple of deep-fried items. It is best to wake up early for breakfast as some of the items does not seem to be replenished late in the morning.
Japanese set meal on New Year day
Dinner is a more elaborate affair with guests seated at the table featuring their room number (which avoids the chaotic scene of the morning). A set meal is served based on the number of registered guests and kids are given children's set meal. The dinner usually consists of a sashimi or cold plate appetizer, some salad and pickles, a main entree and a special second entree which revolves around hot pots or sukiyaki. At the end there will be fruits. As such, every night guests are certain to be full and I thought it made the whole stay very value for money. Granted the food would not be on par with the high end kaiseki in some of the Japanese ryokans I went to but it is better than some so-called Japanese food elsewhere...
Hotpot dinner on the second night
And now onto the skiing part. Ichinose is perhaps the nicest base for both skiers and snowboarders since it is basically near the epicentre of where most of the action takes place. Beside the hotel is the Ichinose Family Ski Area and just opposite which can be accessed via an overhead ski bridge is the Ichinose Diamond Ski Area. Both of the ski areas around Ichinose are geared towards beginners and families with generally mild slopes and wide open terrains. One of my favourite runs here is actually the Terakoya 寺小屋 ski area which is accessed via the top of Ichinose Family quad lift. There are some flat trails in order to access the Terakoya ski area but this area is generally a lot quieter with less people since it is more or less isolated from the main Ichinose skiing area but that means the powder is better here after a fresh snow.
Chairlifts at Ichinose Family ski area
Ichinose on the left and Yakebitaiyama on the right
However the best view of the area is probably from the top of the Higashidateyama 東館山 gondola. Skiers need to head to the top of Ichinose Family or head to the exit towards Higashidateyama from Terakoya. Then they can take the gondola after skiing down to the base. The queue for the gondola is quite long though and it is a very cramped, antiquated, egg-shaped gondola. Skiers could place their skis outside but snowboarders have to bring it into the gondola which is nearly impossible. The snowboard size I was using measures 157cm and it scrapes through the roof of the gondola. Needless to say I was really uncomfortable throughout the gondola ride with 3 other Japanese skiers. The approach to the gondola is also made from metal ramps and not natural mountain terrain with lots of zig-zags. While the gondola experience leaves much to be desired, the view from the observatory was magnificent and there is a also a soba restaurant waiting to fill the stomachs of hungry skiers.
View from trail no 26 at Terakoya ski area
Ski trails connecting Ichinose to Takamagahara
Due to the gondola, the run at Higashidateyama is also one of longest and it is a run somewhere in between green and blue which is suitable for beginners who are starting to learn how to carve. The wide runs here are similar to those in Ichinose but it does have more bumps compared to Ichinose. The Higashidateyama ski area connects the Nishidateyama 西館山 and Giant ski areas with Ichinose so it can get pretty crowded in this area as well. Skier wishing to access the Takamagahara Mammoth ski area are also better off getting in from the top of Higashidateyama. Since I was staying in the Ichinose area, that was where I spent most of my snowboarding at, and I did not really venture much into the runs in Nishidateyama and Giant.
Panorama of Shiga Kogen 志賀高原
Higashidateyama gondola as seen from Takamagahara Mammoth Ski Area
Access from one ski area to another is not the easiest in Shiga Kogen and the ski areas around Ichniose lacks a gondola that brings skiers up to the top in an instant unlike in Yakebitaiyama. As such I think it is more convenient in Yakebitaiyama but the variety of terrain in Ichinose, Terakoya, and Higashidateyama would satisfy a wide range of capabilities. When I compared Shiga Kogen to Niseko and the Hirafu/Annupuri ski area, I actually prefer the expanse of terrain at Shiga Kogen. Spending a total of 4 days of snowboarding, I never got to explore all of the runs in the area but that was also because not all the runs are connected. On the other hand, the Hirafu and Annupuri ski area can easily be covered over a 4 day period.
Trees blanketed in snow at the top of Ichinose
The snow conditions are similar for both Shiga Kogen and Niseko with thick powder conditions even at the base. Shiga Kogen is very accessible for visitors arriving at Tokyo though there is no night life or aprés-ski to be had at all in the area. Unlike Niseko which has a lively night scene, this was slightlt disappointing. In terms of value for money, Shiga Kogen would be cheaper for a ski holiday since most hotels would include meals in the morning and at night. I did not regret my decision to snowboard in Shiga Kogen since it is after all a host resort for the Winter Olympics and that has got to count for something!
Taking the chairlift at Ichinose 一の瀬
Shiga Kogen also does lack a bit of an on-the-mountain dining options with the closest being the soba place at the top of Higashidateyama gondola. However that place is very small with the capability of accommodating at most 25 diners. I had lunch once at the base of Ichinose Diamond ski area just one floor below the rental area. This is in the building that can be seen directly from our room. Japanese ski resorts usually have udon, katsu or curry rice and ramen as the main course. I also had a very delicious mille crepe cake here. Another place I had my lunch was at the Hotel Khuls restaurant which is on the Ichinose Family ski area.
Curry katsu rice and mille crepe cake
Soba stand at the top of the Higashidateyama Gondola
However if I were to visit Ichinose again, I would most probably stay at the Hotel Khuls Shiga Kogen or find a lodging between the Ichinose Family and Takamagahara ski area since there are more hotels around this area with convenience stores that makes it easy to get snacks and beverages. Furthermore this part of town had more facilities and amenities for visitors and thus making it more convenient. It is also worth noting that Hotel Khuls is also a ski-in/ski-out property with its restaurant being a great place for lunch.
Dusk over Ichinose 一の瀬
May 2, 2014, 10:56 pm
#24
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Off to another great start Quirrow- not to mention the fantastic photography as always.
Skiing in Japan is timeless. Not much appears to have changed from my skiing experiences at Hachhi Kogen near Osaka in 1990. Of course, I don't happen to see any single seat chairlifts in your report as of yet!!
It's also notable that it's not too busy on the runs in your photographs. I think this may mean that less people are skiing - or that these resorts are far away from the centers of Osaka and Tokyo.
Skiing in Japan is timeless. Not much appears to have changed from my skiing experiences at Hachhi Kogen near Osaka in 1990. Of course, I don't happen to see any single seat chairlifts in your report as of yet!!
It's also notable that it's not too busy on the runs in your photographs. I think this may mean that less people are skiing - or that these resorts are far away from the centers of Osaka and Tokyo.
May 3, 2014, 9:01 pm
#25
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Thanks prolixindec!
Off to another great start Quirrow- not to mention the fantastic photography as always.
Skiing in Japan is timeless. Not much appears to have changed from my skiing experiences at Hachhi Kogen near Osaka in 1990. Of course, I don't happen to see any single seat chairlifts in your report as of yet!!
It's also notable that it's not too busy on the runs in your photographs. I think this may mean that less people are skiing - or that these resorts are far away from the centers of Osaka and Tokyo.
Skiing in Japan is timeless. Not much appears to have changed from my skiing experiences at Hachhi Kogen near Osaka in 1990. Of course, I don't happen to see any single seat chairlifts in your report as of yet!!
It's also notable that it's not too busy on the runs in your photographs. I think this may mean that less people are skiing - or that these resorts are far away from the centers of Osaka and Tokyo.
I think I had some single seat chairlifts in Niseko/Annupuri which I visited last winter season. As for Shiga Kogen, it is one hour from Nagano, which again is 2 hours by Shinkansen from Tokyo so there was some distance away. It was the New Year's holiday when I visited so the hotels were full with lots of families. Overall I think skiing is a sport that is picking up in Asia. Last time over the Xmas and NYE I spent in Niseko, the hotels were also fully booked. That was the reason we picked Shiga Kogen, and I think it turns out to be a pretty good decision.
May 3, 2014, 9:03 pm
#26
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Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park
Bus stop at Yudanaka station
While Nagano is well known as a skiers paradise since it does snow regularly during the winter and with easy access via the Shinkansen to Tokyo and Ueno, it makes it a ski destination for Japanese and tourists alike. It does have a very interesting tourist attraction as well in the form of a monkey park. This famous nature reserve is called the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park and is located in the town of Yudanaka.湯田中. From Nagano, visitors can take the Nagaden or Nagano Electric Railway that links Yudanaka to Nagano. From Shiga Kogen, we took the public bus that takes about one hour or thereabouts with stops made in the town centre around the Shibu Onsen area as well as a final stop at the Yudanaka train station. Thus I believe visitors seeking to head to Shiga Kogen for skiing could take the Nagaden and bus combination as well.
River in the centre of the town of Yudanaka/Shibu onsen
Courtyard of a Japanese house in Yudanaka
The town of Yudanaka is quite small and it is possible to walk from Yudanaka station to the Monkey Park though it would take about 30 minutes on foot since they are on opposite ends of town. Most ryokans would have a complimentary shuttle bus that would ferry guests to and from the Monkey Park.
Sakes on display at the brewery in Yudanaka
Flower buds along the walk towards the Snow Monkey Park
On that day as we just finished lunch nearby our Ryokan, we walked to the Monkey Park as we wanted to visit the Sake brewery along the way as well. Near the Monkey Park itself, there are several shrines. At the entrance to the Monkey Park, visitors can take a rest and order some snacks and refreshments as it is another 15-20 minutes of a hike into the Jigokudani valley. Visitors could also rent winter boots in the refreshment centre since the trail are usually covered in slippery snow and winter boots are essential for a safe visit!
Shrine near the entrance of the Jigokudani valley
Trail leading to the Snow Monkey Park
What makes the Jigokudani Snow Monkey Park 地獄谷野猿公苑 special is that the snow monkeys inhabiting this valley are the northernmost primates on Earth and the bubbling onsens in the area provides a respite for these monkeys in the extreme cold. Jigokudani actually translates to Hell's Valley in Japanese and this name came about from the steam emanating from the hot springs that the snow monkeys soak in during the winter. Adults pay a fee of ¥500 (~US$5) and entrance fees for children are half of that. Technically visitors need not enter the park to see the snow monkeys as some of them can even be seen in the middle of the valley. However more are found in the park itself where the hot springs for the monkeys are located at.
First sighting of the snow monkey
Baby monkey crossing with the help of a rope
The hike into the middle of the valley is a pretty enjoyable one as most of the valley is kept in its natural state. Being in the valley also limits the sounds emanating from the town as what hikers would hear are the sound of the water flowing in the river beneath. While most of the hike occurs on flat grounds, there are some stairs to conquer and they can be slippery so once again I need to remind visitors that the right footwear is necessary here.
Hot spring baths for the monkeys
Being a natural park, do not expect much other facilities though there is a small village in the middle of the valley. There are also natural outdoor onsens around the park where visitors can pay a fee to enter. Do take note though that visitors can see people soaking in the onsen and as you should know onsen visitors are not supposed to be clothed so visit at your own choice! The Monkey Park itself is a very interestin sight and since it is inhabited by a lot of monkeys, there are a lot of animal droppings about and do not expect a zoo-like environment. Visitors can indeed get really close to the monkeys and a lot of photo opportunities exist to take a pose with the snow monkeys. If one visits Nagano, I cannot see how they would miss this place of interest since it is not everyday you get to see a snow monkey soaking in an onsen!
Snow monkey in the hot spring bath
More snow monkey in the bath
Another claim to fame for the town of Yudanaka is the resort town of Shibu Onsen. As the name of the town suggests, they are one of Japan's most famous hot springs area. The main attraction are the town's 9 public hot spring baths. According to a brochure, each of the nine baths have a different mineral composition in the hot springs that could cure certain ailments or improve a particular part of the body. Visitors could identify each of these onsens by the cat figurines outside the entrance of the hot spring baths. It is also quite fun to collect a photos of all the 9 cat figurines.
Cat figurines outside the nine public hot spring baths
For those who are not seeking to take a bath, the small quaint resort town is very nice to take a stroll in during the evening. Visitors could enjoy a bowl of ramen or purchase half-boiled eggs that were cooked using the heat from the hot springs. The latter is especially recommended since they are probably the best half-boiled eggs I have had in my life! The honesty of the Japanese people are really to be commended since the ryokans would just place a sign stating the price of the eggs with the eggs left outside for visitors to purchase on the spot.
Having onsen-boiled egg in the town Shibu Onsen
Both the hot springs of Shibu Onsen and the snow monkeys within Jigokudani makes it worthwhile to visit this small town and I found that these attractions add to the appeal of Shiga Kogen as a skiing destination. This means that visitors heading to Shiga Kogen for skiing or snowboarding could also enjoy some local sights and immerse in the Japanese way of life by staying in a ryokan and enjoy a rest for all those sore muscles by soaking in one of the numerous hot spring baths!
May 10, 2014, 12:49 am
#27
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Ryokan Biyu-no-yado
Staying in a ryokan is perhaps one of the most enjoyable things tourists could do while visiting Japan. Though my definition of ryokans are typically onsen hotels in the country side of Japan. I stayed once in Jozankei and another time during the summer inLake Toya, and both stays were amazing even though they were just for one night. Typically these lodging includes dinner and breakfast as well as access to their public baths. In all the stays I have had, the baths are segregated for men and women, with a rotation that occurs in the morning. The baths also has an outdoor and indoor section which makes it even better. Thus to make this trip to Japan complete, we stayed in a ryokan in Yudanaka for one night. Given how expensive it is to stay in these lodging, one night provides the best value in my opinion. Rates for a night at these accomodation options usually go on a per person basis, and it costs me ¥16,000 (~US$160). At first glance it appears expensive considering a night at the Hyatt in Shinjuku for 2 person costs less than that but I think it is worth it and this post will show how so.
Origami in the lobby
First of all, the ryokan had a van that picked us up from Yudanaka station but I think guests might need to call the ryokan on arrival as I do not think they have a regular service. My friend booked the accommodation and arranged for our transport to the ryokan though we had to wait a while since we did not know beforehand what time we expected to arrive at Yudanaka station. Since we arrived at the ryokan earlier than the check-in time of 2pm, we left our luggage and snowboard at an alcove in the lobby which was curtained off. The lobby of the ryokan was empty around noon when we arrived and the lodging was extremely quiet and peaceful but it could also be due to the New Year's holiday still ongoing in the country. I would rate the lobby of this ryokan in between the one I visited in Lake Toya and the one in Jozankei. There was a lot of seating area in the lobby with a bar at the corner that was decorated with 2 model 747 - a Northwest and Delta Air Lines jet. Small origami ornaments decorate the tables and livens up the quiet lobby and the ryokan actually sells these origami made of high-quality craft paper on the gift store.
Bedroom in the Ryokan
The room assigned to us was a Japanese style room facing the town and the higher location of the ryokan provided a vantage view point overlooking the town of Yudanaka and Shibu Onsen. There was an entry foyer on entry and the toilet on the left with a shoe rack and jacket closet. The bedroom itself is located on a higher platform and is covered with tatami mats. In the evening when we checked into the room, a table with 2 Japanese chairs and another 2 western style chairs nearer the window. A set of teacups and teapot was laid out along with some Japanese bean cakes and sweets and this is common amongst all ryokans.
Bedroom in the Ryokan
One notable difference with western style rooms would be the futon bedding that would be laid out while guests have dinner and the washbasin is actually located in the section of the room close by the windows. On one edge of the wall lies the ward robe where the yukatas, pillows and futons are stored at along with a TV cabinet. The room was perhaps standard sized for a ryokan and similar in terms of style to the one I stayed in Jozankei after the snowboarding trip to Niseko.
Cookies and tea
In my last post, I mentioned that we actually went out to explore the town of Shibu Onsen and visited the monkey park before returning to the ryokan at around 7pm for dinner. The ryokan will actually provide free shuttle service to the town and the monkey park and they were also picking guests up from the monkey park, hence we got a lift back and requested a drop at Shibu Onsen which is probably half way between the ryokan and the monkey park. Service in the hotel was excellent like in many Japanese accomodations. The ryokan was also geared to cater to English speaking guests and thus there was no problem in communication unlike in some Japanese chain hotels.
Drum in the lobby
On returning to the ryokan for dinner, our group of 4 adults and 2 children were ushered into a private room and this is more the norm for families or larger groups. The kaiseki meal is always a highlight of a ryokan stay and this one was still full of surprises. A Japanese kaiseki meal typically combines some of the freshest unique ingredients that are local to the area and the fresh mushrooms already laid out on the table.
Zensai platter
Sashimi platter
Mushrooms to be grilled
As usual there was a pre-dinner aperitif in the form of a small cup of sake. Then the zensai platter was set up in the middle with all the food intricately decorated. I always find the zensai in a kaiseki to be the most visually appealing and the most interesting with its variety of flavours. Other side dishes in the kaiseki was the sashimi platter, pickles, a bowl of soba, an oyster in jelly and a kobachi bowl of simmered vegetables. There were 2 main entrees in the set meal, one of them a beef shabu-shabu and a grilled fish served with rice. The fish was served with a sweet black bean and a stalk of young ginger which was tasty. Finally a shortcake was served with a strawberry for dessert. Kids get their own sets and have a special non-alcoholic drink as well. Overall, this was a good meal, but compared to some other kaiseki meals I have had the pleasure of partaking, it was lacking that flavour that makes me reminisce about the meal.
Kobachi platter
Beef hotpot
Fish entree for the Kaiseki
Shortcake for dessert
After dinner, the rest of the evening was spent enjoying a song, dance and drum performance by a talented Japanese artist who sang a folk song, performed on the huge drum set in the lobby and did a lion dance the Japanese way. It was supposed to commemorate a couple's anniversary of sorts who was staying in the ryokan with the family and that perhaps highlighted the stay. In the evening we also head out to the onsen for a nice hot spring bath.
Drum performance
Musical performance
Lion dance performance
Rock wall in the onsen
The onsen was one of the smaller ones I have been to in a ryokan but it was good enough with an outdoor portion. There was also a small lounge which was located just outside the hot spring baths but it was really too small with only 4 seats in all. It is also worth noting that the ryokan switched off the lights on the lobby level after around 10pm which seems a bit early for a hotel as there does not seem to be any other public spaces where guests could relax in and use the wifi since they are not available in the rooms.
Rest lounge outside bath house
On the next morning, breakfast was once again served in the restaurant below the lobby and our group was assigned the same private room once again. The breakfast set was similar to the one I had in the Park Hyatt Tokyo with a tofu stew, some traditional fish cakes, pickles, rice and a plate of grilled fish. A bowl of salad was also served along with juices, milk, tea and coffee. Maybe I was jaded after having so much Japanese breakfast, but this was once again a tad ordinary and did not appear outstanding.
View from the room
While this ryokan stay met my expectations, it would not be one of the ryokans I would re-visit since I think there are some other ryokans that provide a much better experience overall whether in terms of food or accommodations, such as the one I visited in Lake Toya.
Origami in the lobby
First of all, the ryokan had a van that picked us up from Yudanaka station but I think guests might need to call the ryokan on arrival as I do not think they have a regular service. My friend booked the accommodation and arranged for our transport to the ryokan though we had to wait a while since we did not know beforehand what time we expected to arrive at Yudanaka station. Since we arrived at the ryokan earlier than the check-in time of 2pm, we left our luggage and snowboard at an alcove in the lobby which was curtained off. The lobby of the ryokan was empty around noon when we arrived and the lodging was extremely quiet and peaceful but it could also be due to the New Year's holiday still ongoing in the country. I would rate the lobby of this ryokan in between the one I visited in Lake Toya and the one in Jozankei. There was a lot of seating area in the lobby with a bar at the corner that was decorated with 2 model 747 - a Northwest and Delta Air Lines jet. Small origami ornaments decorate the tables and livens up the quiet lobby and the ryokan actually sells these origami made of high-quality craft paper on the gift store.
Bedroom in the Ryokan
The room assigned to us was a Japanese style room facing the town and the higher location of the ryokan provided a vantage view point overlooking the town of Yudanaka and Shibu Onsen. There was an entry foyer on entry and the toilet on the left with a shoe rack and jacket closet. The bedroom itself is located on a higher platform and is covered with tatami mats. In the evening when we checked into the room, a table with 2 Japanese chairs and another 2 western style chairs nearer the window. A set of teacups and teapot was laid out along with some Japanese bean cakes and sweets and this is common amongst all ryokans.
Bedroom in the Ryokan
One notable difference with western style rooms would be the futon bedding that would be laid out while guests have dinner and the washbasin is actually located in the section of the room close by the windows. On one edge of the wall lies the ward robe where the yukatas, pillows and futons are stored at along with a TV cabinet. The room was perhaps standard sized for a ryokan and similar in terms of style to the one I stayed in Jozankei after the snowboarding trip to Niseko.
Cookies and tea
In my last post, I mentioned that we actually went out to explore the town of Shibu Onsen and visited the monkey park before returning to the ryokan at around 7pm for dinner. The ryokan will actually provide free shuttle service to the town and the monkey park and they were also picking guests up from the monkey park, hence we got a lift back and requested a drop at Shibu Onsen which is probably half way between the ryokan and the monkey park. Service in the hotel was excellent like in many Japanese accomodations. The ryokan was also geared to cater to English speaking guests and thus there was no problem in communication unlike in some Japanese chain hotels.
Drum in the lobby
On returning to the ryokan for dinner, our group of 4 adults and 2 children were ushered into a private room and this is more the norm for families or larger groups. The kaiseki meal is always a highlight of a ryokan stay and this one was still full of surprises. A Japanese kaiseki meal typically combines some of the freshest unique ingredients that are local to the area and the fresh mushrooms already laid out on the table.
Zensai platter
Sashimi platter
Mushrooms to be grilled
As usual there was a pre-dinner aperitif in the form of a small cup of sake. Then the zensai platter was set up in the middle with all the food intricately decorated. I always find the zensai in a kaiseki to be the most visually appealing and the most interesting with its variety of flavours. Other side dishes in the kaiseki was the sashimi platter, pickles, a bowl of soba, an oyster in jelly and a kobachi bowl of simmered vegetables. There were 2 main entrees in the set meal, one of them a beef shabu-shabu and a grilled fish served with rice. The fish was served with a sweet black bean and a stalk of young ginger which was tasty. Finally a shortcake was served with a strawberry for dessert. Kids get their own sets and have a special non-alcoholic drink as well. Overall, this was a good meal, but compared to some other kaiseki meals I have had the pleasure of partaking, it was lacking that flavour that makes me reminisce about the meal.
Kobachi platter
Beef hotpot
Fish entree for the Kaiseki
Shortcake for dessert
After dinner, the rest of the evening was spent enjoying a song, dance and drum performance by a talented Japanese artist who sang a folk song, performed on the huge drum set in the lobby and did a lion dance the Japanese way. It was supposed to commemorate a couple's anniversary of sorts who was staying in the ryokan with the family and that perhaps highlighted the stay. In the evening we also head out to the onsen for a nice hot spring bath.
Drum performance
Musical performance
Lion dance performance
Rock wall in the onsen
The onsen was one of the smaller ones I have been to in a ryokan but it was good enough with an outdoor portion. There was also a small lounge which was located just outside the hot spring baths but it was really too small with only 4 seats in all. It is also worth noting that the ryokan switched off the lights on the lobby level after around 10pm which seems a bit early for a hotel as there does not seem to be any other public spaces where guests could relax in and use the wifi since they are not available in the rooms.
Rest lounge outside bath house
On the next morning, breakfast was once again served in the restaurant below the lobby and our group was assigned the same private room once again. The breakfast set was similar to the one I had in the Park Hyatt Tokyo with a tofu stew, some traditional fish cakes, pickles, rice and a plate of grilled fish. A bowl of salad was also served along with juices, milk, tea and coffee. Maybe I was jaded after having so much Japanese breakfast, but this was once again a tad ordinary and did not appear outstanding.
View from the room
While this ryokan stay met my expectations, it would not be one of the ryokans I would re-visit since I think there are some other ryokans that provide a much better experience overall whether in terms of food or accommodations, such as the one I visited in Lake Toya.
May 10, 2014, 10:08 am
#30
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: SFOSJCOAK
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Love the way you chronicled everything with sufficient details, but never over bearing. Nice job. Always enjoy reading your TRs.
Marriott Nagoya is my favorite hotel in Japan, for much the same reasons as you stated. Unfortunately, I think it has creeped up to Cat 6 now.
Platinum guest can check in in the executive lounge. I Concur with your comments about Marriott vs Westin in Nagoya. Marriott wins my business hands down.
A couple of skyline shots from the hotel:
http://stefanofoto.smugmug.com/Asia-...goya/i-sFvfmw2
http://stefanofoto.smugmug.com/Asia-...goya/i-MtLh7Fh
I also did similar day trips from Nagoya to Kyoto and Takayama. You can also go to the Toyota Factory tour in Toyota Shi as a day trip from here.
Wow, you were greeted with blue skies compared to my (also Christmas-NewYear) trip when I saw nothing but cloudy and gray skies for days.
I love the winter scene of Takayama. My summer trip there yielded horrible photos as it rained constantly.
Marriott Nagoya is my favorite hotel in Japan, for much the same reasons as you stated. Unfortunately, I think it has creeped up to Cat 6 now.
Platinum guest can check in in the executive lounge. I Concur with your comments about Marriott vs Westin in Nagoya. Marriott wins my business hands down.
A couple of skyline shots from the hotel:
http://stefanofoto.smugmug.com/Asia-...goya/i-sFvfmw2
http://stefanofoto.smugmug.com/Asia-...goya/i-MtLh7Fh
I also did similar day trips from Nagoya to Kyoto and Takayama. You can also go to the Toyota Factory tour in Toyota Shi as a day trip from here.
Wow, you were greeted with blue skies compared to my (also Christmas-NewYear) trip when I saw nothing but cloudy and gray skies for days.
I love the winter scene of Takayama. My summer trip there yielded horrible photos as it rained constantly.