aw

The last time I flew AM was in the late 90's from LAX to MEX and it left me with a positive impression. I recall friendly and engaging crew members, great ground agents and an elaborate meal with two set of menus being distributed (one for meals and the other one for wines). AM had excellent catering and the desserts were memorable.

When I came across a business fare of $550 total from LAX to SJO a few months back, I had to take advantage of it to visit my relatives and at the same time I was curious if the AM that I remembered was still alive in this post 9/11 era of cost cutting. Unfortunately my experience with AM this time proved to be a big disappointment. Incompetence, disinterest, bad catering, overcrowded lounges and inflexible rules are some of the factors that contributed to this new impression. My first taste of the new AM began when I received an email about a schedule change that would create a misconnection on my return from SJO-MEX-LAX. For some reason the MEX-LAX segment would now depart 3 hrs earlier, so when I called about my options, I was told that they could put me on a later flight the same day (about 9 hrs in MEX and a force overnight in LAX because I would miss my connecting flight from LAX-SFO on UA which is a separate tkt), or confirm me a day earlier so that I wouldn't miss the UA connection. When I called later to be protected a day earlier, I was told that they were sold out of J inventory so I ended up taking the later connection on the original return day. Good thing that I requested to go over the seat assignment and at that point I noticed that the agent booked me in Y instead of J. When I inquired about the mistake, he put me on hold and after 5 min. he came back and fixed the reservation without much of an apology.

This report consists of the following parts:

- AF Business Lounge @ LAX & Aeromexico Premier LAX-MEX.
- Aeromexico Premier MEX-SJO.
- Costa Rican food.
- Playa Blanca in Punta Leona.
- Aeromexico Premier SJO-MEX.
- Aeromexico Salon Premier.
- Hampton Inn Centro Historico MEX DF.
- Mexican Gastronomy and a visit to the most famous bakery in MEX DF..
- Mexican Gastronomy P.2 - El Cardenal rest. and eating worms for breakfast.
- Touring MEX DF
- IB Sala VIP @ MEX and AS F MEX-LAX.


AM 647 LAX-MEX
EQP 737-700 - Seat 1A Premier J/C
Dept. 1404 - Arriv. 1953

The flight on UA from SFO-LAX was on time and uneventful. At the AM counter in LAX, I was told that I could only bring 2 carry-ons (I had two plus a small bag from a store). I managed to fit the small bag inside the carry-on but now it was about 3 lbs over. I asked if they could allow me to just bring it onboard and the agent just looked at her co-worker and shrugged her shoulders, so she handed me my boarding pass and lounge invitation wishing me a pleasant flight.

AM uses the Air France Business lounge @ LAX T2 and from previous reviews I did not expect much. Security had a long line but it moved quickly. Once inside I lined up for the elevator and this took forever. Upon entering, I was greeted by the polite clerk and my first impression was that this lounge was a bit small and not as stylish as the other AF lounges. There was an acceptable selection of snacks and cold sandwiches, wraps and olives. In addition there was a ramen noodle station and hot soup (Minestrone was today's soup du jour). The lounge had good views to the tarmac and a decent selection of reading materials.














Drinks and snacks















My snack




I then headed to the gate an hour before departure. At the gate, I witnessed an interaction that was the complete opposite of what customer service should be. An agent was chatting with a flight attendant at the podium when a young guy approached her and asked a question. The agent completely disregarded the passenger and continued chatting with the FA. A few seconds later another agent motioned to the pax to come forward and answered his questions. Wow!

Boarding was orderly and the purser was positioned at the door greeting passengers. The overhead bin for seat 1A was blocked with equipment and I had to use the ones on top of row 2 behind. Pre-departure beverages of water and orange juice were offered. Once we took off, there was no hot towels nor menus. A FA distributed immigration forms and the purser asked if I wanted to have lunch. The meal onboard was a warm toasted turkey sandwich served with salad and a tiramisu cake. As the only legacy Mexican carrier, you would think that AM would put some efforts to maintain a certain standard, especially in J. After the meal trays were cleared and I rang the call button to ask for a duty free catalog. About 5 minutes later I rang the button again and no one answered. I then turned it off and rang it one more time and still no one came. In the meantime, there were FA's passing by the aisle with the call button unnoticed. I finally had to ask one verbally for a catalog and she quickly brought me one. Towards the end of the flight, the purser made one last appearance and took our drink orders. She served the drinks with a ramekin of nuts which seemed a bit odd. Why not give the nuts at the beginning of the lunch service?


You call this lunch?









..to be continued with MEX-SJO.

aw

Whenever I fly I tend to select an aisle seat. Flying into MEX is one of the few exceptions as I actually enjoy the view on descent into the largest metropolitan area in the western hemisphere and Spanish speaking city in the world. Unfortunately my flight took a different path and flew through the outskirts of DF instead of passing through the center.






AM hub














Upon landing in MEX, I had to clear Immigration & Customs and go through security again for my SJO flight. Truth be told, the process went smoothly and I probably spent about 15-20 min. Going through security was painless and the people that I dealt with were very professional and friendly. Once inside the terminal I headed up to the Salon Premier and the nice reception clerk welcomed me inside. I found the lounge small for a hub station and extremely crowded on this evening. After a few drinks I decided to try its domestic counterpart since I have read that it was less crowded. Unfortunately the domestic lounge turned out to be just as crowded so I left and waited at the gate.


AM Salon Premier






AM 656 MEX-SJO
EQP 737-800 - Seat 2B Premier J/C
Dept. 2122 - Arriv. 2330 (Actual 22:55?)

Contrary to my previous flight, the service on this one was exemplary. We had a great purser who was proactive and attentive. Coats were hung, PDB's served and after take off I even received hot towels. Meals, although slightly better, continued to disappoint. This time I was offered a choice between a chicken salad or vegetable focaccia. I chose the chicken salad and it was delivered with a side of fresh fruit, bread sticks and a packet of pistachio and almond cookies for dessert. I guess AM has followed the lead of some U.S. carriers in offering "light" dishes in its premium cabin.


Premier cabin







Pre-dept. OJ




Dinner








Pretty good fruit dish.




Very disappointing dessert.



..to be continued with stay in Costa Rica.

aw

Costa Rican food might not be as renowned as those of other Latin American countries, but beneath its lack of popularity lies a hearty and simple cuisine that is generous and satisfying.

Rice and beans form the backbone of most meals, including breakfast. The traditional lunch meal is "casado" which consists of rice and beans served side by side accompanied by some type of meat (often carne asada, chicken, pork chop or fish) and the addition of a side salad, piece of fried white cheese and plantain. Chopped tomatoes and onion pickled in lime juice (a coarse salsa) is known as "chimichurri" here, so do not expect that flavorful green parsley sauce that goes so well with grilled meats.

Here are a few places that I visited:


La Princesa Marina

A chain of restaurants that specialize in seafood served in a very casual environment. If you are not a seafood lover, they also offer pasta, rice dishes, beef and chicken. They provide good value for your money and weekends can get pretty busy. Their official link is found here.


Coctel de palmito (palm heart)




Ceviche




Mixed plate with grilled steak, chicharron and shrimp with platanos en almibar and french fries.




Mixed plate with grilled chicken and veggies, fried fish, french fries and platanos en almibar.





Los Potreros

Located on top of a hill in San Isidro de Heredia, this place offers huge portions at reasoable prices. Not to be confused with "El Potreo" located also in Heredia. They don't seem to have a website, but I was able to find a reference in foursquare.


Exterior








Fish with palmito sauce, patacones and thick fries.




Antojitos




Casona De Mi Tierra

Their official website is not running yet, but they can be found in foursquare through here. This restaurant specializes in typical Costa Rican fare served in a causal setting that reminds you of someone's home. Portions are hearty and delicious, so it is no wonder that this place is quite popular with local ticos.












Olla de Carne




Typical plate with grilled chicken, sausage, plantain, salad, rice and beans.




Mix plate for sharing.




to be continued with Playa Blanca.

aw

Playa Blanca is a semi private secluded beach located in Punta Leona, a rainforest reserve near Jaco Beach and about 90 minutes from San Jose. I stayed in a private home during my stay and in the morning I headed out to the beach to relax. It felt great to wake up surrounded by the impressive trees and relax in a beach all to myself.

There is more information about this reserve through this link.


Houses on top of the beach




Secluded beach













to be continued with AM SJO-MEX.

aw

AM 657 SJO - MEX
EQP 737-700 - Seat 2A Premier J/C
Dept. 0700A - Arriv: 11:13A

Unable to sleep the night before, I got myself ready to go to the airport to take my flight at this ungodly hour. I don't know why AM has their only flight out of SJO leaving at this hour. It certainly cannot be for intl. long haul connections because these flights depart in the evening out of MEX.

Arrived at the airport with plenty of time and dutifully paid my departure tax at the counter before proceeding to the AM desk. There was a long line this early in the morning but it moved quickly. When I approached the AM counter, a cheerful agent at the entrance of the line inquired about my carry-on bags and made sure that they were within limitations. Her colleague placed "carry on" tag on the respective bags and politely invited me to join the Premier line. The agent who helped me at the counter was professional and friendly, unlike their counterparts at the AA, UA and TA counters in SJO who although professional, lacked a certain friendliness and enthusiasm. He issued my boarding passes and an invitation to the Copa lounge. I was not in the mood to go down and up so I headed straight to the gate.


My plane at the gate. Unfortunately I was not able to find a good angle to take this shot.



When it was time to board, I saw 3-4 agents who congregated at the gate. Elderly and wheelchair passengers were invited to board first, followed by families with children and J passengers. I greeted the purser stationed at the entrance and settled on my chair. I found the 36" (91.44 cm.) pitch tight on this 737-700. Even the lady sitting across who had 2EF for herself had to request the purser to ask the passengers in 1E to put his seat upright in order to allow her to go to the WC when we were airborne.

Pre-dept. drinks of orange juice and water were offered, and once we took off a flight attendant passed out immigrations and customs forms. There were no hot towels or menus on this flight. The purser served breakfast from the cart and the choices were omelette or crepes. I inquired if the crepes were sweet and to my surprise they were savoury. It would be nice to balance the options with a sweet or savoury choice instead of having two savoury ones. It turns out that the crepes were filled with spinach and turkey or chicken slices. Breakfast seems more generous than lunch or dinner, and the purser offered a variety of breads from a basket. I chose what looked like a croissant but actually turned out to be a sweet roll shaped like one. A muffin was already pre-plated in the tray, although I think that yogurt would have been a better replacement. The side of fruits was fresh and sweet. Personally I hate the present china pattern with the lines that AM uses for J hideous. The previous one with the indigenous motifs had more character and even the earlier version with the AM logo was better.



Cabin with tight pitch







Adios San Jose





Breakfast






Impostor








FA's retreated to the galley at the conclusion of the meal service and did one more round of beverage before arrival. This time our descent took us through downtown DF and it was worth having a window seat.


Arrival into MEX










to be continued with AM Salon Premier.

aw

AM has two Salon Premier lounges in T2, one for international and the other domestic at opposite sides. Unfortunately they are not marked as such, but you can tell by the clock locations on the wall once you are inside. As you enter T2, the intl lounge is located in the right side of the terminal so use the security checkpoint on that side to access it while the one on the left is the domestic one. I visited both and they are quite similar. However, the domestic one had a corner that was being renovated when I was there. If you are looking for a quick shower, only the intl lounge is equipped with one.

I started with the intl. one and entered through an open reception area in a circled configuration. The clerk was welcoming and upon checking my credentials, I was allowed to proceed inside. The first impression that came to my mind was the openness of the lounge with a bar complete with stools in the middle. Everything is out in the open and computer terminals were located on one side by the entrance. Restrooms are located inside which is quite convent. There are attendants hovering around who are happy to bring you anything you want. A small lounge was tucked away in a corner with a large counter and TV with stools set in a communal table. I saw an attendant set up the lunch items like soup, sandwiches and Vienna hot dogs on the counter. I also saw a spa area but did not venture inside. AM's long haul flights depart in the evening and this lounge can get pretty crowded during that time. For a hub lounge, I feel that AM could have made this place larger with more privacy.

As far as food is concerned, the options were adequate and are definitely above what U.S. domestic lounges offer. Most items were "finger foods" and were on the light side. Don't expect any hot dishes or elaborate desserts.


Salon Premier - Intl






Bar






Lounge area










Small lounge tucked in a corner with TV.




Buffet








Lunch








After lunch I visited the domestic lounge which was similar in layout to the intl one. As for the buffet offering, I have read reviews stating that there is not much difference in the food between these two lounges. However, this was not my experience and I beg to differ. In my experience the food at the domestic side is a downgrade from what is offered at the intl one. Choices were more limited and I only saw tortilla chips, salsa, mini turkey wraps, packaged goods and cookies on the buffet counter. So if you are hungry, eat at the intl. side.

Salon Premier - domestic.








to be continued with Hampton Inn.

aw

One of the best valued properties that I have ever stayed at, this historic hotel offers a range of amenities such as buffet breakfast, 24 hrs gym, laundry room and business center that are all free. Staff are welcoming and little touches like bottles of water and chocolates in your room are bonuses. It doesn't come as a surprise that it is ranked among the top 15 in the city according to tripadvisor.com.



Entrance




Lobby








I was assigned a spacious room on the fifth floor next to the terrace. The bathroom was very utilitarian with the sink separated from the toilet/shower. The best feature was the easy access to the terrace which was just outside my door.


Hallway on the 5th floor.






Room












The terrace








Breakfast is generous and there is a rotation of hot local dishes every morning. There is also a waffle machine tucked at the end of a table.










Business Center




to be continued with Mexican Gastronomy.

flyingstudent

Great food pics and great review of Hampton Inn Mexico City Centro. I'll be staying there in Nov and am looking forward to it. Great deal at 10k Hilton points/night.

aw

Thanks flyingstudent. That is indeed a good deal and I'm sure you will enjoy your stay. There are good eateries nearby if you walk around.


Mexican Gastronomy

I have always believed that Mexican cuisine is very misunderstood and often misrepresented abroad. Part of the problem is its association with Tex-Mex fare which is a regional variant and merits a separate distinction.

True Mexican gastronomy starts with an appreciation for what the indigenous people ate during pre-Hispanic times followed by the contributions that the Spaniards brought creating a fusion of cultures in which food has become one of its most successful manifestations and culminating with present day reinterpretations of traditional cuisine by talented chefs.

It's hard to cover all the great food that this metropolis of about 21 million people and one of the largest cities in the Western hemisphere has to offer, let alone in a few days. The very few places that I had the opportunity to sample have given me an encouraging start and I have barely scratched the surface, but from what I have seen and ate, I will surely come back.


Barro Negro

This is a great gem specializing in Oaxacan regional cuisine located in the upscale Polanco neighborhood. More information is found on their site, but it is only in Spanish.


I chose to dine outside "al fresco".




I started with a drink made with Hoja Santa herb, chia, and lemon. A very refreshing choice.




The chief waiter was extremely attentive and brought me different salsas and condiments. I specially liked the black salsa con mole. Most moles contain at least 18 ingredients including chilies, nuts, seeds, spices and of course chocolate.




I then tried a "Tlayuda" which is a thin crispy tortilla with queso fresco, chorizo and tasajo (smoked meat in aromatic wood). Absolutely delicious! I accompanied this with a satisfying black bean soup.






Dulceria de Celaya

A lovely turn of last century building housing delectable sweets. The main location is at 5 de Mayo No 39, but there is also a branch in Roma. Confections are made by hand and faithful to traditional recipes. More information is found at this link (Spanish only).











Pasteleria "La Ideal"

Not too far from Bellas Artes on Av. 16 de Septiembre No 18 is "La Ideal", Mexico City's most famous and ornate bakery shop. This temple of baked goods attracts a faithful Mexican clientele at all times of the day and its second floor with their glorious display of cakes for all occasions is a must for any visitor who comes. On the first floor where the baked goods are, you pick up a tray and a pair of tongs and pile up what you want. When you are ready to check out, bring the tray to one of the girls behind the counter. She will write you a receipt to take to the cash register for payment and then you bring the receipt back to the attendant to pick up your boxed or wrapped goodies. There are also counters for cookies (pasta seca), turnovers, whole cakes and desserts.

More information is found at its Spanish link. It has two more branches in the city where one is at Uruguay in the Centro.



















Second floor







..to be continued.

aw

El Cardenal

One of the best restaurants in DF for traditional Mexican specialties with four branches across the city. I had a chance to visit only two - Alameda inside the Hilton and Palma in Centro Historico. They run an English site that can be found here.


Alameda

Even though the Alameda one is inside a hotel, I noticed that most of the patrons were well heeled locals the day I visited.


Entrance inside the Hilton lobby




Interior





I started with a Molcajete which consists of artisan white cheese produced by the restaurant, served with slices of avocado in a salsa verde with hints of cilantro and onion. It has become a trademark of the restaurant and it is customary to start with one of these before a great meal at "El Cardenal". The waiter brought me a basket of breads with the most amazing rolls that are crisp on the outside with a perfect balance of softness and chewiness inside. These could easily come from a great bakery in France. They were that good! The basket also included salty "rosquillas" and sesame crackers. A container with soft and warm tortillas was also brought to the table and waiters keep an eye for both baskets in case they run low.


Molcajete




Bread and tortillas






I started with a "Cuitlacoche" or corn smut appetizer. This is a fungus that was revered by the Aztecs and has a slight crunchy texture with an earthly mushroom like flavor. Best when it is just simply done to appreciate all its qualities.






For the main dish I had "Lomo de Robalo en Estofado de Hoja Santa" - Sea bass in a creamy Hoja Santa sauce. Hoja Santa or Sacred Leaf is an aromatic leave that is rarely found outside of Mexico. It has a very complex flavor and has been described as a mixture of eucalyptus, licorice, sassafras, anise, nutmeg, mint, and pepper. The dish was served with a side of rice that complemented it perfectly.






Centro

This branch is located at 23 Palma St. housed in a beautiful historical building. I came here for breakfast and this time I decided to try some really exotic fare like "escamoles" or ant eggs and "gusanos de Maguey" or worms. It was an interesting experience and I enjoyed savoring both dishes. Service was extremely attentive and efficient.

Exterior




Interior




"Mixiote de escamoles con flores de Maguey" Escamoles are ant's eggs which was considered a delicacy by the Aztecs. The dish was interesting and had a very delicate floral undertone.




"Gusanos blancos de Maguey" There are two types of worms - red which are smaller and the white which are "meatier". I ordered the white ones and these were a revelation. They were very cirspy and flavorful.




Avocado side to make my worm tacos.




to be continued with Touring Mexico DF.

El Cochinito

El Cardenal is one of my favorites in Mexico City; have eaten at the Hilton and Centro Historico locations multiple times. The food is great at both locations but I give the edge to Centro just for atmosphere. Lots of politicos and caca grandes dine at Centro. Once La Cochinita was in the Centro location eating lunch just a couple of tables away from the future Presidente de La Republica.

time2go1st

aw, this TR is a real eye-opener and thanks so much for it; almost passed it by as I thought it dealt with the airline only, but opened it because I know your great ability and was rewarded with much, much more on the local cuisines. It will be a reference for me when I can do my much-yearned-for visit to MEX, altho I may pass on the worms. And the Costa Rican cooking may be simple, but oh how tasty it looks -- and vv healthy it seems.

Now here is just a little teaser for you: why don't you do a little gastronomic TR on Burlingame Ave., my old haunt when I lived there nearly 15 years ago; it must have changed since then, but undoubtedly very diverse, nobody like you to do a sampling tour of its many offerings.

Meanwhile thanks for this one, it is very lovely and welcome here by many others than me I am sure.

BuildingMyBento

@aw I dig the food shots. The hoja santa has a hint of sassafras? Ahh!

Isn't molcajete roughly the term for the mortar and pestle? The avocado and cheese dish merely borrowed the name?

Also, it's huitlacoche, not cuitlacoche. Good stuff nonetheless!

aw

Thank you El Cochinito, time2go2st and BuildingMyBento.

@El Cochinito - so was Angelica Rivera next to him? I bet she was more popular.

@time2go1st - I'm flattered amigo. As a matter of act Burlingame is going through some street project renovation. The latest addition has been a Turkish restaurant which I have yet to try. Of course, Copenhagen bakery is a popular place and quite convenient for a sweet indulgence.

@BuildingMyBento - indeed "molcajete" referes to the Mexican version of mortar and pestle. At the Cardenal it was referred as just molcajete by the waiter. As for huitlacoche or cuitlacoche, either spelling is correct. I was faithful to the restaurant's version and it was spelled as cuitlacoche there.

aw

I did not arrive in MEX at a good time. The teachers' protest was in full swing and the Zocalo was full of tents becoming an open dumpster with garbage and discarded food everywhere. On top of that we experienced strong downpours every afternoon which limited my outings. Streets tend to get flooded and break havoc during intense heavy rain, not only in areas with poor infrastructure but surprisingly in some upscale neighborhoods as well. I did the best I could under the circumstances and still managed to have a great time here. Here are a few shots of the places that I visited.


Zocalo area






Catedral Metropolitana






Museo de Antropologia












Paseo de la Reforma










Centro








Alameda Park






Bellas Artes



to be continued with IB Sala VIP & AS MEX-LAX.