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Papua New Guinea via the Bird of Paradise

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Papua New Guinea via the Bird of Paradise

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Old Aug 31, 2013, 11:56 pm
  #1  
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Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Sydney, Australia and Stockholm, Sweden
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Papua New Guinea via the Bird of Paradise

Some of my more mainstream trip reports are here:

TR - Mostly Star Alliance SYD-CPH the long way

Sydney to Iceland via China. Mostly J, some China Domestic Y and Magnetic Levitation!

SQ & LX J, AZ & EN Y and an LH flightless bird

But this was something different. For a while I had been in training ready to hike the Kokoda Track, almost 100km (60 miles) across the jungle of the Owen Stanley Ranges in Papua New Guinea. The track is a bit of an icon in Australian military history being the place where a bunch of Australian soldiers, poorly trained and equipped first thwarted the Japanese advance during the second world war.

Today it's still a good physical challenge and a beautiful, rugged landscape, often trekking above the clouds. But this being FlyerTalk I presume you are more interested in another mode of travel above the clouds. PNG also is a difficult place to fly. The nature of the terrain and third world economy makes flying still an interesting activity:

http://www.theage.com.au/world/missi...0812-eh9x.html

So the flying might nearly be as interesting as the trekking. And it almost was.

PX2 - Air Nuigini - SYD - POM (Port Moresby) 737-800 P2-PXC (Economy)

Check in was open at 0530 for an 0830 departure. For the first time ever I was asked to produce my eTicket for my return journey. Probably a PNG immigration requirement. I already had my visa stamp in my passport.

I asked if there were any options available for more leg room and I was pleased and very grateful when allocated an exit row which provided plenty of room for my 6'4" frame. Only 3 of the 12 exit row seats were occupied and the plane generally had a very low load factor. (I would say less than 50%.)

Gate 27 was down a set of escalators and led to a bus bay for the short drive to our plane.

Captain Terry Shannon and First Office Graham Law introduced themselves from the flight deck and shortly announced a few people were missing. While waiting I took stock. No individual IFE, cabin clean and reasonably modern.

One of the late passengers arrived and sat across the aisle next to me. I'll call him PITA 1. He arrived with his wife and young child who he proceeded to ignore for most of the flight. They fended for themselves while he fiddled with numerous bags spreading his stuff over the seats next to him.

One more passenger boarded 50 mins after our boarding time (why we were still waiting is beyond me). She had plenty of duty free bags and I'll call her PITA 2.

PITA 1 was not briefed on exit row procedure (and due to his size would not have been able to get out the over wing exit anyway). PITA 2 sat at a bulkhead seat and stored her duty free bags at her feet.

Departure was about 30 mins late. After the seat belt sign was turned off headsets were handed out then special meal orders were confirmed. FA addressed PITA 1 to confirm his special meal order and he responds with "Yes and if there are any extras I'll have a regular meal also."

Now call me old fashioned, but if you can eat a regular meal you do, if you can't you order a special meal. I think he just ordered a special meal so he could get served first.

Complimentary drinks accompanied our early lunch. There was a choice of beef or chicken. The chicken was with a black bean sauce and with a little pepper and salt it was really quite tasty.

PITA 1 inhaled his special meal so when the regular meals came by he asked for a chicken meal and at the same time asked if he could have a beef dish too. He pulled down 4 sets of window shades (all the rest of the plane was up) in his row and the empty rows in front of and behind him. I won't labour the point too much but he continued to make his presence felt way beyond his seat.

PITA 1 spoke with the FAs in a condescending tone and requested another meal. He had given his cutlery back after meal number two so had to request another set. He couldn't wait and finished his beef dish using just a knife he had left over from before.

During the meal PITA 2 came up and PITA 1 engaged her in conversation. It must have been between "courses". When asked why she was late PITA 2 said she was in the QP and lost track of time. With headsets on she didn't hear the announcements. For 50 mins??? PITA 1 thanks her saying if she hadn't been late he too would have been offloaded. So they thanked each other.

After PITA 2 continued to the lav, PITA 1 tapped me on the shoulder and proceeded to repeat the story for my benefit as if they were something to be proud of. I quickly donned my set of headphones to discourage PITA 1 from bugging be further. He gave up on me and decided to bug other passengers and using the call button to request various things from the FA.

Parental Guidance was shown on central TV screens.

When everybody else was dozing PITA 1 decided to sort through his rather extensive CD collection on the seats beside him. Yes, his bags were full of CDs in their plastic cases and he couldn't do this without slamming the overhead bins several times.

I went to the lav, partly out of need, but partly to escape this annoying individual. When I returned his baby daughter was sitting in my seat. I patiently stood in the aisle in front of them both and he saw me clearly. Do you think PITA 1 would ask his daughter to move? No. It took several minutes before his wife a few rows back noticed and came to collect the child.

Landing couldn't come soon enough on schedule at 1231. All bays were full so we waited for a bit then stopped near the domestic terminal at 1247. An old coaster bus took us to the international terminal where we were trapped behind a locked door for a while before being admitted to PNG.

Inside was small but functional with just 1 luggage carousel. Our bags appeared very quickly and as soon as immigration and customs knew you were a trekker you were waved through as if you were a rock star.
sydunipete is offline  
Old Sep 1, 2013, 12:08 am
  #2  
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CG-1670 POM - PNP (Popondetta) P2-MCM Dash8-102

Port Moresby domestic terminal was small and chaotic even at 0440. Our departure wasn't until 0645 but we had been warned the "New Guinea time" made this sort of lead time necessary. Scheduled time was 0645 to 0720.

Everything sort of worked at the Airlines PNG check-in desk which seemed equally occupied with groups of trekkers and locals. Through a rather dated security setup and we found a waiting area with old, torn and dirty seats. There were 2 kiosks where you could buy bad coffee, cakes, pies, cold drinks, snack bars etc.

At the appointed time we walked out the terminal, through the early morning heat to our Dash8-102 which was soon to celebrate it's 25th birthday. Well, that's a small exaggeration, but it's first flight was 24-4-1990.

This flight had a low load factor representing about a 50/50 mix of trekkers and locals. One of the locals could not be woken for the safety briefing and was at risk of being offloaded but managed to get it together enough to keep his seat. There were maybe 20 passengers and the flight was about 2/3rds full. Props started turning at 0637 - ahead of schedule.

According to the Australian pilot we were cruising at 15000 ft, but it cloud only have been for seconds because the flight was basically up, scrape over the ranges then down the other side landing about 40 mins after departure from POM.

Popondetta airport is just a tin shed with toilets that are an afront to the senses. Lots of locals were waiting for the "big plan" which I presume is a 737 run by Air Nuigini.

Popondetta is about 30 minutes in the back of a track on a mostly sealed road from the Popondetta township.
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Old Sep 1, 2013, 12:19 am
  #3  
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Va4190 pom - bne vh-yis 737-800

Port Moresby International Terminal is small and basic. The International Terminal is certainly more organised than the Domestic side but check in was still slow and for a while there was only one immigration officer handling a long queue.

No WiFi but we kept ourselves busy spending the last of our Kina. Not that there's much to spend it on, but the cakes were nice!

Full marks to Virgin Australia. The consistency of service, fit out etc made you feel instantly at home so I'll spare you a lot of the detail.

By paying a bit extra we were able to secure exit row seats in advance which was welcome. The plane was less than a year old and looked the part. The flight was about 80 to 90% full when the last door closed at 1420 (about 20 mins late).

My only real compliant was the aircraft is fitted with a BYO device entertainment system which means if you want to watch a movie you need to have an application installed on your iPhone / iPad before hand. And that's a bit hard in a country with expensive data roaming and an airport terminal without WiFi.

Cous cous and a muesli bar were served to those on flexi fares (I told you this was very consistent service). I requested a chicken sandwich, crackers & cheese and a red wine. They were out of chicken so I settled for egg. When charging my credit card the FA didn't charge me for the crackers as they didn't have my first choice in sanga. Nice touch. It was all fine.

Both magazines in seat pockets near me had the Sodoku done (bummer for a 3 hour flight with me not being able to access the IFE).

Rubbish collected at 4. Descent commenced at 4:47pm and landed at 5:12. (about 10 mins late).

Immigration was quick with no queue at the ePassport kiosks, there was a short wait at customs and I had my hiking stuff inspected. Then to the VA domestic checkin which is located in one corner of the international terminal. Once checked in they give you a ticket for a shuttle bus which takes you to the domestic terminal. All pretty simple really.
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Old Sep 1, 2013, 12:25 am
  #4  
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Va986 bne - syd vh-zpm e190

Lucky both these legs were on the same PNR and I don't know why VA accepted it because I didn't mess around and only made it with less than 5 mins remaining. Never mind, made it I did.

The E190 was painted in Fly Pacific Blue colours and was in 2x2 seating config and new business class (2x1). Everything looked smart and new. FYI Row 11 is the exit row.

There was an empty seat next to me otherwise it was a pretty full flight.

This time I got my chicken sandwich which along with cheese and crackers and red wine made for a dinner of champions. A wine or beer is served free on flights between 4 and 7pm which we just made (departure was due at 1900).

The seat felt a bit hard, but maybe I had just been sitting for too long after 2 weeks of hard physical activity.

The pilot picked up some time and we landed at 2029. (Due 2030) Gate at 2036 and I was really impressed with luggage ready at 2048.

The end of a remarkable and rewarding trip.

If anybody wants to see a few photos, or hear more about the Kokoda Track, just let me know. I've been boring all my friends with them since getting back.
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Old Sep 3, 2013, 12:21 am
  #5  
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
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I think a TR of Kokoda would be awesome - considering the historical and cultural importance - lets teach our fellow forum members some Aussie history
adampenrith is offline  
Old Sep 6, 2013, 2:30 am
  #6  
formerly lcag08
 
Join Date: May 2011
Posts: 103
Ahhh... good old PNG.

I worked there for several months a few years ago.

The highlight of my Air Niugini flights (BNE-POM from memory) was when the person I was seated next to, a local PGN man, lifted up his t-shirt and blew his nose into it. Thankfully there were a few seats towards the end of the plane so I changed immediately after take-off.
luckyg777 is offline  
Old Sep 6, 2013, 2:52 am
  #7  
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
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I worked in POM for a couple of years back in the late 90s. I was there when the new airport was built and opened - believe me it was state of the art back then! The old airport was basically just a shed...

Never did do the Kokoda trail, but when you get out of Port Moresby it's actually a really beautiful country with very friendly people.
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Old Feb 27, 2014, 9:10 pm
  #8  
 
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: TSV, Australia
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Interesting tr. Thanks for posting.
camsean is offline  


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